Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Boestin said:
Also what I am wondering, how is 1,8KW possible with a 30A coil?
The Eaton has i think 54V, right? So that is 1,5KW max...


Is that why the mini-e's were smoked?

I'm running 33a through my small coil, no issues. would I recommend it? Perhaps not, but works great for me!
 
wingsuit said:
Going to have to look at cooling my mini e down. Last 2 days it's been 33 Celsius and on some of the hills on the way home the controller heats up pretty quick. Gets up to 70 then cuts power. 2 or 3 times now I've had to find a shady spot and wait for it to cool

Where is your controller mounted?
 
wingsuit said:
Going to have to look at cooling my mini e down. Last 2 days it's been 33 Celsius and on some of the hills on the way home the controller heats up pretty quick. Gets up to 70 then cuts power. 2 or 3 times now I've had to find a shady spot and wait for it to cool

Where is your controller mounted?
 
its open to the air, but under the seat so it probably doesnt get a ton of airflow. still, I thought being open to the air would be enough. looks like i might have to start looking at thermal pastes and cooling fins

ebike3.jpg
 
wingsuit said:
its open to the air, but under the seat so it probably doesnt get a ton of airflow. still, I thought being open to the air would be enough. looks like i might have to start looking at thermal pastes and cooling fins

Yeah I would think it would be enough under the seat also, worst is to put it inside something. I keep my max-E under the bike and it never gets hot, but it has good air flow while moving.

What is that a moto style seat. I like it, nothing beats a moto style seat for comfort.
 
Oh no! My first problem. :cry: So I was riding along today when there was a rattling sound and the power cut out. I got off and checked my wiring then got on and 30 seconds later the same again. When I twisted the throttle the bike would not move but jolt forward every so often. I checked the phase and hall wires and now I have !HALLS! error. Has anybody had similar problems before?
 
Dirtech said:
Oh no! My first problem. :cry: So I was riding along today when there was a rattling sound and the power cut out. I got off and checked my wiring then got on and 30 seconds later the same again. When I twisted the throttle the bike would not move but jolt forward every so often. I checked the phase and hall wires and now I have !HALLS! error. Has anybody had similar problems before?

Many people - you have likely blown the R113 protection resistor due to issues with the hall wiring. This might be internal to the motor. You need to troubleshoot your hall wiring to ensure that there are no shorts. Note that a short to the temp sensor wires will also cause the same issue. Do not replace the resistor until the wiring issue has been rectified.

Check for voltage at the halls plug to the controller with multimeter, check for continuity between any of the hall signal lines to the hub (as you rotate it)

First time this happened to me way back in this thread it was because the stator had shifted slightly sideways inside the shitty Crystalyte motor and the cover had sanded through the insulation on the hall sensor wires.
 
Jonboy said:
either Coil, and the voltage must be over 24v and under your packs voltage..

I have a 20S battery with a LVC at 62V and HVC at 83V and have been charging with a 30A coil and a 55V PSU.
So, is there a coil that I can use to charge my battery using a 12V power supply?
 
in theory yes, you could use 12v psu, but the controller and coil wont be so happy due to the large voltage step up it has to perform.

worst case you will get a very warm coil/caps/controller. this will vary depending on the output current you set for the psu.

on a slow charge it could be ok, but dont expect too much :wink:
 
bigbore said:
Jonboy said:
either Coil, and the voltage must be over 24v and under your packs voltage..

I have a 20S battery with a LVC at 62V and HVC at 83V and have been charging with a 30A coil and a 55V PSU.
So, is there a coil that I can use to charge my battery using a 12V power supply?

12v will work - however it will be slow and hot compared to your 55v PSU.

I charged at 1kw with a 24v supply built from a pair of server PSU's for a while and that worked well and didn't get too hot, 12v was much worse.
 
Wheazel said:
A question about adaptto and motor tuning parameters.
Can I tune on a lower voltage and still have good results when I increase the voltage in the future?

(New higher voltage battery not yet built, but id like to try things out between the adaptto and revolt120 at 12s)

You would have to re-tune it when you go up in voltage to get the best settings
 
Does anyone know where I can get a 30a charging coil? Adaptto takes 45$ for the coil, all good. But they want 35 for shipping...
What does it do, exactly? I can't understand what it does except filtering. Does anyone have the specs? I'm sure it's easy to make :)
 
qwøck said:
Does anyone know where I can get a 30a charging coil? Adaptto takes 45$ for the coil, all good. But they want 35 for shipping...
What does it do, exactly? I can't understand what it does except filtering. Does anyone have the specs? I'm sure it's easy to make :)

I am also curious to know what is doing this coil in series. It is not true that in CC the coil is like a short circuit?
 
If anyone can offer any insight into this problem.

I hooked up a new cromotor to my bike that I replaced the temp sensor with a KT81 into the windings. I decided to tap into the halls ground connection as per Adaptto recommendations.

The temp probe seems to read fine while not riding, but while I am riding and accelerate with the throttle I notice I would get motor cutoff. Then while looking at the screen I notice that sometimes when I apply throttle the temperature will jump to over 300-477 degrees then when I let off the throttle it will go back to normal in a quick second. It basically goes from a normal (say 170F) degrees and a second later will jump up to 400 degrees, so it can't be a spike temp from the windings, also it will not happen all the time just maybe once per minute or two.

Does anyone have an idea what may cause this? The only thing I can think about is that hooking up to the halls ground connection is causing some kind of problem. Is that possible, any other ideas? The reason I doubt it is a faulty temp probe is that I don't get any spikes when I am not giving throttle.

My old Cromotor with the NTC10K temp probe never had a single problem

Thanks.
 
Hi

I currently have a infineon controller with a 3 way keyswitch.
Middle position is off
1st position is pas low power 250w mode
2nd position is high power offroad mode

Is this possible with the adaptto ?
This helps me keep within the uk laws when I ride the bike on public roads.

Thanks
 
Adaptto has three modes, eco, normal and boost. All three are adjustable to your desired power profile settings.
 
Brake said:
Adaptto has three modes, eco, normal and boost. All three are adjustable to your desired power profile settings.

Thanks for the reply.
Can the modes be selected via a external keyswitch.
I know they offer a on/off switch option.
 
chilau2000 said:
Brake said:
Adaptto has three modes, eco, normal and boost. All three are adjustable to your desired power profile settings.

Thanks for the reply.
Can the modes be selected via a external keyswitch.
I know they offer a on/off switch option.

I asked the same question. https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=1044423#p1044423

The general statement was no, but it's likely possible with modifications. I am super used to using http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=91 this throttle with a built in switch, seems silly to use anything else. I am hopeful that maybe this feature will come standard with the micro version.
 
Hi hall guis,
I have installed my Max-E, and It work great...but now i have a problem....
I have read Allex post for a chance to tourn off the display.....
so put a switch on Red cable of blu connector. i power on the controller, and after switch on the display...but display Light on but does not appear any texts, and after a pair of seconds It light off.....
I restored the standard connector,now you see the texts on display normaly,but push any button and nothing happens....also throttle not work.
any suggestions....
Thanks all
 
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