Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Offroader]

A question regarding the adaptto BMS.

Can I install the bms in the batterybox in a formcut compartment out of isolation foam, or will the bms need some sort of ventilation to stay cool?

I think what you should do is run the BMS and check how hot it gets during the balancing stage, I assume this will be the hottest it will get. Then if it doesn't get too hot you can probably install it in the isolation foam. Then I would check it a few times during balancing while in the isolation foam.

I doubt it matters because most people are stuffing it in their battery compartment and nobody has complained about heat or overheating.

 

[ridethelightning]

+1

i have mine against the inside of the lid of my fibreglass batt compartment. i have isolated it from the batteries with a piece of close cell foam.

when ballencing it gets detectably warm to the touch on the outside of the compartment, but if i open the lid, the batts underneath the foam havent soaked up any heat to speak of.

 

[Offroader]

I fixed the KT81 temperature probe problem by running a direct wire to the controller instead of running it through the ground wires in my Cromotor.

I'm not sure why the temperature would jump when I gave it throttle, but something must have increased the resistance in the ground wire running through the motor somehow causing the controller to read a higher resistance and therefore a higher temperature.


Since the temp probe wire is still basically hooked to the same connection as ground, the only thing I can think is the ground wire run inside the cromotor is somehow effected by the high phase amps on full throttle.

 

[Brake]

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[madin88]

Since the temp probe wire is still basically hooked to the same connection as ground, the only thing I can think is the ground wire run inside the cromotor is somehow effected by the high phase amps on full throttle.

it could be the case. thats why i prefer a separated and shilded wire for the sensors.
on one of my mxus 3000 motos i run stock wire and i also have noticed jumps in temperature reading. needs to be upgraded^^

 

[Wheazel]

Anyone know the specifics about external speed sensors in later firmwares?

My setup will have a fixed relation between motor rpm and vehicle speed as long as the motor is driving, but the motor is freewheeled and can rotate slower than that relationship.

Is it possible to put all speed measurement on an external sensor, or do the adaptto force-take the motorspeed when the motor is running?
Ive red some ambiguous info about this topic.

 

[martin.shane]

HI
Please help. I use adaptto controller and cromotor V3 motor on the qulbix frame. Few times i made already mistake by holding throttle ( bike ON) and not seating on the bike. I try to push the bike to garage and so on. Of course bike has started as a rocked. As it has happened few times already i have found that it may be dangerous so I'm asking if there is any set up in Adaptto that throttle may start only from some speed and above like 5 km and more? So until 5 km I would need to pedal and then i can use throttle. Is this possible?

Please help

 

[Allex]

Always use precations when you have a powerful bike. Turn the profile mode to Eco or always turn off the controller when you are off the bike, that is what I do.

 

[r3volved]

You could always wire up a switch on your throttle signal...system would still be on and you're just toggling the throttle signal on/off for ride/dismount.

 

[martin.shane]

HI
Thanks for answers. Thats great idea about using throtlle as a ON /OFF mode.

SOmetimes i just forget to turn it off, display get off or dimm and im ready for trouble

 

[r3volved]

I use a thumb switch on the left side to toggle my controller's ignition signal (same deal, different wire).

It just becomes habit to turn off if I'm navigating crowds or when I get off the bike. I ALWAYS make sure it's OFF BEFORE ANYONE ELSE TOUCHES ANYTHING!! And the kill switch is the first thing I tell 'test-riders' about.

Not only good for moving the bike around and keeping other test-riders safe, but it's also a good idea in the event that your throttle ever gives up the ghost (likely would result in WOT)

 

[bigbore]

I've been using my own PAS system (not the one recently added to the controller) and also works as a safety system.

 

[Boestin]

Anytime now the mini and max will arrive.. But I want to be absolutely sure that they will not fry again after charging.

- How can I tell if the charger and charging coil is ok?
I use an Eaton from Allex which delivers perfectly fine 54,5V output...

- How can I tell if the hub is ok?
Is there a possibility that there could be a short somewhere? The hub twists without any problems. But when I measure the phases they all look like if they are shorted somehow. I can tell by the beeb sound. On the other hand: Another HS3540 also seems to be shorted, but no problems with that one since that is my current commute cycle.

Thanks guys..

 

[madin88]

- How can I tell if the hub is ok?
Is there a possibility that there could be a short somewhere? The hub twists without any problems. But when I measure the phases they all look like if they are shorted somehow. I can tell by the beeb sound. On the other hand: Another HS3540 also seems to be shorted, but no problems with that one since that is my current commute cycle.

Thanks guys..

all 3 phase wires are connected inside the motor so a beep is normal
i would say if the motor spins normal by hand (without cogging) and if it works well during riding than it should also work well during charge. low current settings during the first tests will help to not fry anything if there really would be a problem with it.

 

[Mammalian04]

Grrr.... I have just given up after 8 hours of troubleshooting my MaxE setup with a cromotor... Hopefully I will have an epiphany tomorrow!

 

[qwøck]

Hi! I want my mini-e to accelerate no matter how steep the hill is, but do it slowly and smooth. Does anybody know what settings I should be messing with?

 

[Allex]

Take eco mode and set it up for hill climbing, like 10-25A batt current and maybe around 60-80 on phase this way I could climb stairs very slowly

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Hello!

We highly recommend updating your controllers with the latest firmware which can be downloaded here: http://adaptto.com/Support/.
In case if you find any bugs or problems while using it PLEASE contact us via techsupport@adaptto.com (with FIRMWARE 9G PROBLEM message topic) or call directly (+7 495 215 28 78).

RC-9G_4 LOCKED
1) Inability of exiting from the CHARGE MODE is corrected
2) Brakes have priority against PAS sensor (i.e. once twisting the brakes – PAS switches off)
3) Problems with damaging status register under some circumstances are solved
4) The controller thermosensor model will no longer be changed automatically while resetting or upgrading the firmware
5) ANTI-THEFT protection has been moved to UNLOCKED firmware version
IMPORTANT: correct operation of ANTI-THEFT function depends (among other factors) on hall sensors performance and crucially on the motor thermosensor accuracy. These are the circumstances beyond Adaptto’s control thus the decision to move this function to UNLOCKED firmware version was made.
6) Minor bug fixes and improved stability
IMPORTANT: starting from November 2014 our controllers are equipped with KTY84 thermosensors (was KTY83 initially). To check whether the correct thermosensor is set for your controller you need to enter HEALTH MONITOR and take a look at MOSFET temp. If the values are inadequate (negative or too high) please enter CALIBRATION menu and change the themosensor model in Int.TempSens field for KTY84 (or KTY83 if you already got the former). Then also try doing full system RESET. If neither of the measures has helped please contact us ASAP for instructions. The exploitation of controller with broken thermosensor is dangerous and can lead to the total loss of controller.

RC-9G_4 UNLOCKED
1) Inability of exiting from the CHARGE MODE is corrected
2) Brakes have priority against PAS sensor (i.e. once twisting the brakes – PAS switches off)
3) Problems with damaging status register under some circumstances are solved
4) The controller thermosensor model will no longer be changed automatically while resetting or upgrading the firmware
5) The algorithm of ANTI-THEFT function was elaborated:
a. Controller suspends the motor only during the prolonged rotation and not acting like a handbrake
b. Thermal protection bug is corrected for this function
6) Minor bug fixes and improved stability

Good luck!

 

[Offroader]

Any idea why Adaptto is using KTY84 sensors now instead of the KTY83?

I also thought the controllers used the KTY81 sensors internally and the KTY83 sensors inside the motor? I have mine set for KTY81 inside the controller.

Only difference seems to be the temp range is different, but why the need to go higher than +175C?
KTY83 -55C to +175C
KTY84 -40C to +300C

If anyone is interested here are the data sheets:

http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/KTY83_SER.pdf
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/KTY84_SER.pdf

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Great service from Adaptto.
My Mini-E has been repaired under warranty and is on it's way back to me now.

Unfortunately, they weren't able to determine what caused the problem, but they replaced the whole power board to fix it apparently.

Hopefully I can be up and running again (for the first time really) with my Mini-E in a few weeks.

Cheers

 

[Mammalian04]

Hey guys, I still haven't been able to figure out my setup issues. I have wired up the throttle (Wuxing from ebikes.ca) and halls. I think I have everything correct but I am getting "THR!" on the main screen and also a "Halls Error 2"during autodetect. I have filmed a little video of what it is doing when I try to run autodetect.

*VIDEO OF ERRORS*

Below is the info screen showing good Halls voltage... but from previous posts, it sounds like the voltage on this screen may not be accurate.



Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

 

[skWarDog]

That screen is good...... Calibrate and linear your throttle and brake in the calibration menue

 

[skWarDog]

Oop's sorry! You have a hall problem..... 4th line down, when you roll your bike forward, H0 is bad. H value should never be 0 (zero). When you roll your bike slowly forward, H value should change 1-2-3-4-5-6, 1-2-3-4-5-6 ONLY and every time it changes, the "111" numbers should change 1 at a time from 0 to 1. I don't think they should ever be all 111's or 000's

 

[ridethelightning]

thanks for that SK.

although i dont have a problem right now, its good to know a little more if/when i do.

This is good info.

 

[skWarDog]

Tanks rtl!There is definitely a learning curve to this these things..... wish I didn't hafta learn so fast though?! Good thing is though, Since I got a Max-E, e-life is wonderful..... that's why I haven't been on here lately, didn't want to jinx myself?! Only problem I'm having with it, I can't zero the power meter? Standing still it reads -.7amps and -80 watts. I tried the zero adjust in Calibration menu at +9 and main shunt value at max @ 524uf. This trips the BMS in my batt, so I turned it back to 373uf (factory setting). I played with the other shunts a little but didn't want to blow anything? I know "Shunt 2" corrects the mode settings, but have no info on "Shunt Z". Can't find any in the ES threads or users manual?
Anybody? Adaptto?
Still gotta send my Mini-E back for warranty repair, so I don't want to play too much......

SDog