Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Offroader]

Merlin what battery cells and configuration are you using?

Regen should show watt hours, it does amp hours.

 

[GmagNeato]

the midi hasnt with "stock firmware" that Problem...
but yes, i did an Update and it works. Thx

happy first max-e ride yesterday.
made some auto tune runs and a manual setup of the motor (QSv3)
runs really smooth atm.
i have only one Circuit Breaker, but it looks he's ok with 200Amps?!


- Is it "normal" reaching 16KW with 20s?
- I can setup Battery current to 192. On Adapttos website it is only "Max Battery Current - 140A"
- throttle "forgets" sometimes my calibration after switching on/off. -reproducible-
- Regen WH 0000? ...so i have nothing earned from ebraking?!

i have to ride more to make a better compare and limit to 170A battery, but i have heaten my hub alot faster comparing to the sabvoton package...
its the locked firmware.

Merlin which turn count QS do you have and what firmware are you running here on the Max-e is it RC9G4? Also, would you mind sharing a pic of your advanced settings? I am running 3.5T but can't set over 137a with firmware version RC9G2. My average consumption is much higher than yours as well with only 8.5kw peaks.

 

[Ultraman]

I had the same problem with this "protect" thing. Throttle didn´t worked anymore. And when I still pushed it, the controller blocked the motor. I have made a previous post about that problem. All in all I have send it back to Adaptto. They repaired it in 1 day after receiving and are now shipping it back to me

EDIT: Oleg wrote they have changed the "power board".

Thanks Das. I've contacted Oleg, response was fast. He suggests a firmware upgrade and that I send him video of the problem. If that doesn't get me out of "Protect" I may be sending mine back also.

 

[chucho]

I have a strange problem with max e.
Sometimes when i start it with the key the screen starts flashing, blinking or what ever is called. And it does not start. Before it was like trying to start with the key two times and then started. Today i was in the middle of nowhere and it was a nightmare to start. I was more than 15 min trying and finally started. Then it works perfect... But now at home after charging same thing again.
[youtube]J8kTwV9aZw0[/youtube]

I have find a way to start it... but it is a bit awkward
I disconect positive conector of the battery while is blinking and the screen starts... if i conect quick the positive again the screen stays on and ok. If i dont conect quick same blinking starts again.
[youtube]RirWKuG5hNs[/youtube]

Any clue what could be happening? Anyone had this problem before?

 

[DasDouble]

I had the same problem with this "protect" thing. Throttle didn´t worked anymore. And when I still pushed it, the controller blocked the motor. I have made a previous post about that problem. All in all I have send it back to Adaptto. They repaired it in 1 day after receiving and are now shipping it back to me

EDIT: Oleg wrote they have changed the "power board".

Thanks Das. I've contacted Oleg, response was fast. He suggests a firmware upgrade and that I send him video of the problem. If that doesn't get me out of "Protect" I may be sending mine back also.

Oh yeah, here is my video I have sent to Artur and Adaptto/Oleg. Maybe you can identify your problem with mine?

[youtube]rPe01HfRq3o[/youtube]

 

[DasDouble]

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TO USE EMS! NOT DHL!!!!!!

When I have sent my controller + display to russia, they where to able to send my packaged in less then 14 days.. Oleg has given EMS my repaired controller on friday. Now it is already in germany and it will just have to get delivered! AWESOME! DHL was so fluxing slow, I was really angry about them. And then they were´nt even able to get it deliverd. Normally they do a great service from germany to all over the world, but in this case from germany to russia it seems like they have some problems there. Just listen to what Oleg recommends you. If he tells you to do something, you better listen to him. I didn´t and as a result I had to wait 1,5 weeks longer..!!! :|

 

[Offroader]

I have a strange problem with max e.
Sometimes when i start it with the key the screen starts flashing, blinking or what ever is called. And it does not start. Before it was like trying to start with the key two times and then started. Today i was in the middle of nowhere and it was a nightmare to start. I was more than 15 min trying and finally started. Then it works perfect... But now at home after charging same thing again.
[youtube]J8kTwV9aZw0[/youtube]

I have find a way to start it... but it is a bit awkward
I disconect positive conector of the battery while is blinking and the screen starts... if i conect quick the positive again the screen stays on and ok. If i dont conect quick same blinking starts again.
[youtube]RirWKuG5hNs[/youtube]

Any clue what could be happening? Anyone had this problem before?

Maybe start by bypassing the key switch and make a direct connection.

 

[Merlin]

or maybe read what i have posted one day before

 

[Merlin]

Merlin what battery cells and configuration are you using?

Regen should show watt hours, it does amp hours.

same 2 years "old" 20s of Turnigys... only 12% of capacity loss in 2 years of riding ~12000km or ~200 cycles. resistance are 1,5x more now.
played a bit with PWM settings.....and ovs 4

scary accelerating and Top Speed
i dont know who is wrong...GPS told me 127kph *lol

Merlin which turn count QS do you have and what firmware are you running here on the Max-e is it RC9G4? Also, would you mind sharing a pic of your advanced settings? I am running 3.5T but can't set over 137a with firmware version RC9G2. My average consumption is much higher than yours as well with only 8.5kw peaks.

its a
30x4 QSv3 (11.39kV)
9G4 Firmware

 

[GmagNeato]

scary accelerating and Top Speed
i dont know who is wrong...GPS told me 127kph *lol

Geez! That's fast! If that's the locked 9G4 firmware then it's definitely time for me to flash because they've upped the current limits significantly! Where were your motor and controller temps during/after this run? And thanks for all that info!

 

[Merlin]

motor temps i cant tell you, because i never reached more then 90 so i didnt care on this ride.
in the "night" i find some posts from allex to setup the PWM up to 2.0
that gives me an extra top Speed of above 100kph WITHOUT ovs.

but reaching Top Speed, motor start making "sounds" and power dropouts i felt.
+ Motor heats up from maybe 70° to 125° on maybe 1Km only

so i setup back my 1.4 PWR timing and closed my Max-E Setup for now and enjoy riding

 

[Merlin]

interessting stuff how the AC circuit breaker works.
and why theres not really a difference "for us" using a AC breaker...


[youtube]Cq55tbLtnlg[/youtube]

 

[chucho]

I have a strange problem with max e.
Sometimes when i start it with the key the screen starts flashing, blinking or what ever is called. And it does not start. Before it was like trying to start with the key two times and then started. Today i was in the middle of nowhere and it was a nightmare to start. I was more than 15 min trying and finally started. Then it works perfect... But now at home after charging same thing again.
[youtube]J8kTwV9aZw0[/youtube]

I have find a way to start it... but it is a bit awkward
I disconect positive conector of the battery while is blinking and the screen starts... if i conect quick the positive again the screen stays on and ok. If i dont conect quick same blinking starts again.
[youtube]RirWKuG5hNs[/youtube]

Any clue what could be happening? Anyone had this problem before?

Maybe start by bypassing the key switch and make a direct connection.

Solved with a New firmware Oleg send me

 

[Ultraman]

[/quote]

Oh yeah, here is my video I have sent to Artur and Adaptto/Oleg. Maybe you can identify your problem with mine?

[/quote]

Here's my video of Protect mode problem. Oleg said it's a phase short leaving the board only partially alive. I'm sending it back for repair. And I'll open up my motor to see if I burned it on my steep hill climb. Leaf motor with ferrofluid, but still got pretty hot. What do people set their max temp at?

[youtube]1qiZ8jRwEH0[/youtube]

 

[velias]

******UPDATE***** NOT ADAPTTO PROBLEM. after getting excellent customer service from Oleg, turns out it was a burned motor phase wire.

Video of my severe vibration problem through a 10mph-15mph speed band while throttling up and during regen switch braking:
I'm working with Oleg on this, but wondered if anyone else has any suggestions?
It is a brand new Adaptto, that worked fine for the first four days, then this vibration problem started happening out of the blue.
I have reset the controller to defaults, and successfully done autodetect plenty of times and its still there.
I haven't had any luck upgrading the firmware ("SD-card error"), but it appears the firmware is only one rev behind whats posted.
(I just bought the controller 2 weeks ago)
Its a front mounted Crystalyte 5304 with 14s5p samsung 25r pack (avg. 52volts), magura throttle. Not using Adaptto BMS yet.
Not using any pedal sensor or the thermal diode for the motor.
Don't know why it would work fine the first four days I had it and now this, its basically unusable it shakes so hard until i get it over 15 mph.
The Halls seem to work fine on the diagnostics screen.

[youtube]9Ey1RZzKWSM[/youtube]

 

[brumbrum]

Oh yeah, here is my video I have sent to Artur and Adaptto/Oleg. Maybe you can identify your problem with mine?

[/quote]
. What do people set their max temp at?

[youtube]1qiZ8jRwEH0[/youtube][/quote]

I am no expert but this is how i understand it. Maximum motor temps will differ for different motors depending on how much copper there is on the stator teeth and if the stator is steel or alu, as these will alter the saturation point. The magnets on the outer rotor that are above can start losing their magnetism at 80*C. I have my cromotor temp set at 110C so the adaptto starts cutting back the amps when at 90C , and that is 90C at the stator where the heat will then shed to the rotor magnets. Some people set the temp limit MUCH higher. For instance, the forum representative for QS motors has posted up on their for sale thread how much heat and for how long the qs205 can handle under operation in test conditions.

 

[brumbrum]

Oh yeah, here is my video I have sent to Artur and Adaptto/Oleg. Maybe you can identify your problem with mine?

. What do people set their max temp at?

[youtube]1qiZ8jRwEH0[/youtube][/quote]

I am no expert but this is how i understand it. Maximum motor temps will differ for different motors depending on how much copper there is on the stator teeth and if the stator is steel or alu, as these will alter the saturation point. The magnets on the outer rotor that are above can start losing their magnetism at 80*C. I have my cromotor temp set at 110C so the adaptto starts cutting back the amps when at 90C , and that is 90C at the stator where the heat will then shed to the rotor magnets. Some people set the temp limit MUCH higher. For instance, the forum representative for QS motors has posted up on their for sale thread how much heat and for how long the qs205 and the larger qs273 can handle under operation in test conditions.[/quote]

 

[ccmdr]

Well, just over 2200 miles on this Adaptto Mini-E and it seems at least one mosfet is dead... Went to leave work at @ Normal 30Amps max for the range extension, Boost used exclusively for post night shifts, busy junctions or roundabouts (for our american friends, roundabouts are big round islands in the middle of the road that you have to ride around to make it look like there are less traffic lights ).

Just as I set off the sodding wheel started pulsing whilst on and dragging even when the controller is switched off . Thought initially it was the cro's bearings failing on one side like the HS3540 did at around the same milage. Not at home atm, so all my tools aren't about and fluke is at work to be sure of the possible MOSFET issue. Disconnected the controller and removed 13kg of battery and she rolls smooth, sigh under pedal power...

Seeing as I'm probably just at the 1 year owning point, might aswell repair the FETS instead of waiting for the support turnaround, £15 in shipping and the wait is much more than the 30 mins of soldering and a £5 of fets . Commuting by pedal in thunderstorms isn't fun (btw the controller is inside vector frame so bone dry, before anyone comments 8) ) . Hub will be stripped anyway whilst everything is in bits, prob bearings by default then re-coat in high temp enamel spray.

I've repaired a crystalyte controller fets before, just wondering what FETS folk have been using to repair/mod their Adaptto controllers, like for like or maybe a more reliable brand/source?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

What do people set their max temp at?

I think it would be interesting to hear the answer from others.

Personally, I was setting mine at 110C, but upped it recently to 135C, which I've only hit once so far. This is on my 35mm Leaf motor pushing ~165 peak phase amps at ~45V nominal.
I think I'm in a unique situation however with my various different cooling methods all contributing to rapid reduction in motor temps after a peak, so the magnets would not get a chance to see those temps and the other parts of the motor would never get close to it.

I plan on going to ~67V nominal soon, so it will be interesting to see how much more heat is generated. I also recently flashed my Mini-E with the unlocked firmware and set Boost mode phase amps to 200, so this will also mean higher temps. I might up the max to 150C, but that's pushing it a little IMO.

Cheers

 

[brumbrum]

What do people set their max temp at?

I think it would be interesting to hear the answer from others.

Personally, I was setting mine at 110C, but upped it recently to 135C, which I've only hit once so far. This is on my 35mm Leaf motor pushing ~165 peak phase amps at ~45V nominal.
I think I'm in a unique situation however with my various different cooling methods all contributing to rapid reduction in motor temps after a peak, so the magnets would not get a chance to see those temps and the other parts of the motor would never get close to it.

I plan on going to ~67V nominal soon, so it will be interesting to see how much more heat is generated. I also recently flashed my Mini-E with the unlocked firmware and set Boost mode phase amps to 200, so this will also mean higher temps. I might up the max to 150C, but that's pushing it a little IMO.

Cheers

I suppose you have to trust in the quality of magnets that the chinese put into these motors, and hope they are a little better than the bottom dollar neodymium :?

 

[GmagNeato]

What do people set their max temp at?

I think it would be interesting to hear the answer from others.."

Cheers

I have my temp settings based on this info from the QS Motors thread

": QS Motor could work 120 ℃ in half an hour without damage.
Conservative Suggestion (Setting of Controller)
When it's 130 ℃ inside of motor (in 30s), the current should be limited 50%.
When it's 150 ℃, the controller shut down.
When it drop down to 110℃, the controller work again."

 

[Merlin]

did some full charge tests now with a frocking nice supply now.(Eltek 48/2000)
iam coming from big RC Chargers and wonder why this Adaptto Controller charge that simple way to waste time for charging.
or...
my charging dont work as expected?!

-Setup 30amps max psu.
-Setup 30amps charging.
-Max Voltage 84v

Charger starts, works fine but if it reaches the battery/cell limit, it cut off complete the charging.
thats ok(for this simple way) but why it starts with the settings you have setup?
and not for example with half of the 30amps?
i cuold say brainless....

Charging trying FULL BLAST.
Controller "detects" Max Voltage reached.
Cut off

Charging trying FULL BLAST.
Controller "detects" Max Voltage reached.
Cut off

Charging trying FULL BLAST.
Controller "detects" Max Voltage reached.
Cut off

......all RC chargers, detect full cells. and since adaptto has his own BMS that CAN communicate also with the controller,
why it does not reduce the charging amps like all chargers do it?!

charge your battery to 90% in 20minutes
and wait another HOUR to fill it to 100%
?


would be easy:

-max current charge 30amps

-max battery voltage reached first time
-half current for next charge 15amps

-max battery voltage reached 2nd time
-half current ....7,5A

-----3,5a
-----1,7a

and so on....

cell will get faster full and i think its better for bms and cells , not blasting (or try to) 30 amps on a 95% full cell.



so: did my charging not work as expected? iam still wondering why i never read about this behavior....
or is it because supplys used are that loud that no one hears the up an down from that kind of cycle charge?!

 

[Offroader]

I don't have a BMS and if I set mine to 82 volts the charge rate will start slowing down that last couple of volts until it hits 82 volts. The charger actually never stops, but only slows down to almost 0 amps, and will start charging again if the voltage falls below 82 volts.

I assume that you have your BMS set for a low cell voltage, like 4.1 volts, and you are hitting that which cuts off the charging instantly.

A hobby charger is different in that it uses individual cell voltage, adaptto uses the complete battery voltage and uses the cell voltage only as a safety to stop charging.

 

[Merlin]

mh....my BMS is set for 3.2v (lvc) because its only for emergency (cut off) for me.
that a RC charger is different i know. thats why i asked "why" adapttos doesnt do it in the same way since it knows all cell voltages

do you charge through the controller? with a coil or with a 82v charger?

 

[Offroader]

mh....my BMS is set for 3.2v (lvc) because its only for emergency (cut off) for me.
that a RC charger is different i know. thats why i asked "why" adapttos doesnt do it in the same way since it knows all cell voltages

do you charge through the controller? with a coil or with a 82v charger?

I agree that the RC charger using individual cell voltages is easier.

I charge with a coil through the controller.

I don't really understand what exactly don't you like about the adaptto charging? You set it to say, 80 volts, and then it charges exactly to 80 volts.