If you have a certain amount of current programmed into it, then the wires for that part will carry that much current whenever the load is that high and your throttle commands that much current. ***
So...the connectors will need to handle that much as well. That's one reason why many of these size controllers will have bolt-on phase and battery posts, rather than wires coming from them to connectors. I'd recommend just using these, but if you have a real need to remove the controller quickly for whatever reason, or if you just prefer connectors, there's not many small options that can realistically sustain those currents, but some are smaller than others.
If you don't mind the huge size, Anderson's SB series are made in versions up to several hundred amps--they may take quite a bit of force to unplug, and are quite large. They're the only kind I've ever used that come in versions that can actually do this current (have handled some "bullets" years back that claimed to, but from their construction I doubt it), but others may come along with suggestions.
*** if you lower the current in the software setup, it won't take that much, but if you need that current to get the torque you are after, then you can't do that.
If you're never loading the system enough to draw that much current, then it won't take that much either, and you can lower it in the software as a precaution.
So...it depends on your intended usage whether you even need a controller as big as yours. For a motorcycle, sure...for a bicycle, not unless you're a cargo bike pulling huge loads, or some similar situation.
Keep in mind that your battery must also handle the "line" current, and must do that continuously for as long as the load on the system is high enough to draw it. (and wiring between it and the controller must also handle it, as well as any BMS in the battery.
Also, I moved this out of Bicycle Mechanical and Structural (which isn't really for electrical stuff) to Motor Technology, where controller stuff is normaly discussed.
