John Bozi
100 kW
thanks guys,
what does heat and cooling do? expand contract or something else?
what does heat and cooling do? expand contract or something else?
AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor
- Thread starter John Bozi
- Start date
Kepler
10 MW
Worth adding that typically you really shouldn't need to scrape or sand the bearing housing to make the bearing fit. In the case of my video, the motor I was fitting the bearings to had poor tolerances and was simply undersized for the specified bearing being used. Normally heating the case to around 150 deg F and putting the bearing in the freezer will allow the bearing to drop in nice and easy. However if the bearing housing is overdersized like in my case, once temperature normalize, the bearing would become rough again.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
John Bozi said:
Yep. expands the hole and shrinks the bearing. not much, but enough to make it much easier to press it in.
John Bozi
100 kW
I've got four on the way and will try the temperature method thanks guys, if that fails -
scrape or sand
if that fails going to a specialist garage if they exist...
I've got my new cranks/chainring, rim, spokes all ready to go - hopefully by this weekend it's all done...
scrape or sand
if that fails going to a specialist garage if they exist...
I've got my new cranks/chainring, rim, spokes all ready to go - hopefully by this weekend it's all done...
John Bozi
100 kW
Got bearings and side covers all on BUT
the copper and black covered phasewires (I presume now covered) are ridiculously close to the side cover. I'm talking about a mm and the other side has near a centimetre. no idea how this has happened: the sides covers are on the correct side, the motor is in hub the right way (we marked everything prior).
Banged the axle a few times to give I think a couple of mm, but wow I have a bad feeling about this.
Other issues is we didn't record prior exactly where the rubber bits came from. On the wiring side having issues with a bit of plastic and what keeps it from rubbing?
anyhow fun
the copper and black covered phasewires (I presume now covered) are ridiculously close to the side cover. I'm talking about a mm and the other side has near a centimetre. no idea how this has happened: the sides covers are on the correct side, the motor is in hub the right way (we marked everything prior).
Banged the axle a few times to give I think a couple of mm, but wow I have a bad feeling about this.
Other issues is we didn't record prior exactly where the rubber bits came from. On the wiring side having issues with a bit of plastic and what keeps it from rubbing?
anyhow fun
pendragon8000
100 kW
Penny goat ... Ladder goat ...
[youtube]ggB33d0BLcY[/youtube]
It had to be done
[youtube]ggB33d0BLcY[/youtube]
It had to be done
John Bozi
100 kW
crazy video Penny dragon 
, I think you had too much:
tonight.
While I am wasting time I might aswell search:
Similar ideas...
e-goat electric bike
, I think you had too much:
While I am wasting time I might aswell search:
Similar ideas...
e-goat electric bike
John Bozi
100 kW
Pulled the whole motor apart for a second time today, with Newb @ http://www.madmanebikes.com/ workshop.
Centring the motor didn't improve but swapping out a bearing which was grinding was well worth it. Ended up measuring the housing in the side cover and they are quite tapered and too tight. I finger sanded the narrowest part for an hour and then we got the bearing in it rotated perfectly.
That took most of my time but had time to change over to the new bottom bracket and cranks which I was worried about fitting... I must say I get a great feeling about dispelling the mystery of different parts of bikes that I didn't know how they exactly looked or came together inside. The bottom bracket was kind of fun after doing the hub motor for a second time. The only part of an electric bike that holds mystery still for me is the controller, and on bike side of things inside the forks and headset. I want to learn about all these things eventually and be able to maintain them myself at home one day...
the lace tomorrow and put the whole bike together. touch wood no more diversions.
My daughter didn't help jabbing screwdrivers into the hub amongst other fun things.
Centring the motor didn't improve but swapping out a bearing which was grinding was well worth it. Ended up measuring the housing in the side cover and they are quite tapered and too tight. I finger sanded the narrowest part for an hour and then we got the bearing in it rotated perfectly.
That took most of my time but had time to change over to the new bottom bracket and cranks which I was worried about fitting... I must say I get a great feeling about dispelling the mystery of different parts of bikes that I didn't know how they exactly looked or came together inside. The bottom bracket was kind of fun after doing the hub motor for a second time. The only part of an electric bike that holds mystery still for me is the controller, and on bike side of things inside the forks and headset. I want to learn about all these things eventually and be able to maintain them myself at home one day...
the lace tomorrow and put the whole bike together. touch wood no more diversions.
My daughter didn't help jabbing screwdrivers into the hub amongst other fun things.
John Bozi
100 kW
20 kmh top speed slower
20% increase in torque
climbing 20% grade easily
not even going over 60 degrees celcius
my birthday present to myself!
LOVING IT!
still babying it - only possible issue is I heard a spoke sound going off a gutter.
still waiting for my parallel harness for the 2x3s I will add to the front pack.
pendragon8000
100 kW
happy birthday mate
the creepy crawler looks bad ass!
keep an eye on those spokes. I'd love to see a video
the creepy crawler looks bad ass!
keep an eye on those spokes. I'd love to see a video
John Bozi
100 kW
I am looking down there a lot, first thing I noticed when off road was a lot of 1 mm little bits of gravel looking like it was snowing out of the sky, falling near, past? or inside? the hub holes....
Its like the knobs a mini shovels pulling up the dirt and dropping it off at the top of the cycle... Makes me uncomfortable to see.... doubt hookworms ever kicked up that much...
so I dont worry about larger rocks (for now) its the finer stuff that easily lifts up and bounces around down there....
I did some super steep stuff that always sends me over 120 degrees in about 100 metres. - I was just hitting 85 degrees.... any steeper and I dont think I can hold on the bike at that angle...
I am still babying paranoid and not wanting it to stuff up too quickly...
had one chain drop but that was because my jeans got caught..
I need to by a short throw rear derailleur.
Its like the knobs a mini shovels pulling up the dirt and dropping it off at the top of the cycle... Makes me uncomfortable to see.... doubt hookworms ever kicked up that much...
so I dont worry about larger rocks (for now) its the finer stuff that easily lifts up and bounces around down there....
I did some super steep stuff that always sends me over 120 degrees in about 100 metres. - I was just hitting 85 degrees.... any steeper and I dont think I can hold on the bike at that angle...
I am still babying paranoid and not wanting it to stuff up too quickly...
had one chain drop but that was because my jeans got caught..
I need to by a short throw rear derailleur.
oldhaq
100 W
happy birthday john, have one for me
good to see this bike finally working out for you, had a few revisions now, , as we do.
you mentioned then adding some more batts, are you gonna use up some of that space behind the seat tube? It'll be good to get any extra weight lower.
I reckon your hill climbing ability has gone up by more than 20%. U can probably up the controller current a bit too cos it's duty cycle will be less than before, comparatively.
good to see this bike finally working out for you, had a few revisions now, , as we do.
you mentioned then adding some more batts, are you gonna use up some of that space behind the seat tube? It'll be good to get any extra weight lower.
I reckon your hill climbing ability has gone up by more than 20%. U can probably up the controller current a bit too cos it's duty cycle will be less than before, comparatively.
oldhaq
100 W
I dont worry about dirt getting in, bearings are the only surfaces touching anything else, and they've got those rubber dust seals to keep it out for a while. Any little pebbles that get in between the stator and magnets is gonna get crushed or fall out again, or sit in the bottom. I fear one day a special little stone is gonna find its way in there and wedge between the cover and soft copper strands, but everything else is barney rubble for those stones. I usually don't see very much debris when I take mine apart, which surprised me years ago but I hardly ever think about it now. Just keep renewing your bearings and have some spares on hand ready to go.
John Bozi
100 kW
Thanks oldhaq,
This controller is "new" and can't be modded according to ebikes.ca.
It actually is the first thing that gets warm now
To get more 40amps I'd have to up my battery quality or P count.
She was climbing fast enough on my short test spin...
Just waiting for a black and red Parallel harness to arrive so I can up it 88v (regen limit) I think that is the limit I don't want to push the controller past too since it is heating up first.
Behind the seat does offer some good space aswell as under the down tube. Will watch "newb"'s box closely that hes going to build. I don't want to design anything on my current batteries, I'll wait till they get older and then might go 5sx8 = 20s Tidy charging, fraction thinner...
anyhoo bla bla bla - no rush for now...
lets go for a spin when you can get out here. I want to do that mountain which I stacked down, behind you...
This controller is "new" and can't be modded according to ebikes.ca.
It actually is the first thing that gets warm now
To get more 40amps I'd have to up my battery quality or P count.
She was climbing fast enough on my short test spin...
Just waiting for a black and red Parallel harness to arrive so I can up it 88v (regen limit) I think that is the limit I don't want to push the controller past too since it is heating up first.
Behind the seat does offer some good space aswell as under the down tube. Will watch "newb"'s box closely that hes going to build. I don't want to design anything on my current batteries, I'll wait till they get older and then might go 5sx8 = 20s Tidy charging, fraction thinner...
anyhoo bla bla bla - no rush for now...
lets go for a spin when you can get out here. I want to do that mountain which I stacked down, behind you...
oldhaq
100 W
maybe can't program it, but all controllers can at least be shunt modded. but yeah if its getting warmest first now, may be best to leave it be, and get some rides in first before pushing limits.
keen for a ride, i saw the route you mapped out in the oz/bne/gc thread, is that the same area we rode that day, but further?
I took my mum up to the botanic gardens on mt cootha a couple mths ago and knew id regret not taking my bike, as an excuse to not spend the whole time looking at plants, so I did take it. Spent a couple hours exploring as many hill climbs as possible, and there are a lot, was excellent. Also a track came out in a park we were in on one of the group rides.
keen for a ride, i saw the route you mapped out in the oz/bne/gc thread, is that the same area we rode that day, but further?
I took my mum up to the botanic gardens on mt cootha a couple mths ago and knew id regret not taking my bike, as an excuse to not spend the whole time looking at plants, so I did take it. Spent a couple hours exploring as many hill climbs as possible, and there are a lot, was excellent. Also a track came out in a park we were in on one of the group rides.
John Bozi
100 kW
Yes, same area, you can see the dam loop we've done a couple of times. The bottom green line is southboundary road firetrail which we did in the first big group ride up there. I don't think we went that far on it though. We have not done the centre road. Me newb have done the top line which is mt nebo road.
There is some seriously long uphills around that area. I should get a topography map...
John Bozi
100 kW
Didn't forsee that my ordinary bike pump would not fit in such a small rim large hub...
no worries - Newb put me onto one of these:
Did another run up the mountain with no stops.
6 km in 20 minutes
average speed 20 kmph
2 AHs
10% regen
Maximum temperature 85 degrees c
This track starts very near my place you can't see on the map but you know channel 10 and its up high...
Just found an awesome map
http://osm.org/go/ueD1DLd9?layers=C
no worries - Newb put me onto one of these:
Did another run up the mountain with no stops.
6 km in 20 minutes
average speed 20 kmph
2 AHs
10% regen
Maximum temperature 85 degrees c
This track starts very near my place you can't see on the map but you know channel 10 and its up high...
Just found an awesome map
http://osm.org/go/ueD1DLd9?layers=C
John Bozi
100 kW
I didn't forsee this effect of going smaller at the back.
I noticed from my first ride that both Regen feels stronger and the typical DD drag has increased.
I'm stoked about regen (hardly use disc brakes unless down the mountain or need a total stop).
The knobs on road roll less too.
So efficiency mmm kind of balancing out, since fly up to speed so quick there's less chance to pedal!
And not only that the fun is in the take off. I have to hold onto the bars a bit more now...
Also noticed that the sound once vented with the 18 x 27mm holes is louder - there's a clear electric hum... so less stealthy
Also doubt these creepy crawlers are going to last that long - as I still ride a lot of bitumen... Don't mind to much about the price of them - way I see it is I'll have to take the tyre off to tighten up the wheel again and grind the top off the spokes more each time I do it.
Yesterday went for my usual 20k, ride with lots of steeper stuff - I know the track so well and where I had had to stop for cool downs. that circuit I had to stop twice to cool the motor in 26"
Now I have no excuse to stop for a cold beer - I can't get the motor over 90 degrees celcius at all.
day off Wednesday and I will take the bike up for a really long true test with 21s!
I noticed from my first ride that both Regen feels stronger and the typical DD drag has increased.
I'm stoked about regen (hardly use disc brakes unless down the mountain or need a total stop).
The knobs on road roll less too.
So efficiency mmm kind of balancing out, since fly up to speed so quick there's less chance to pedal!
And not only that the fun is in the take off. I have to hold onto the bars a bit more now...
Also noticed that the sound once vented with the 18 x 27mm holes is louder - there's a clear electric hum... so less stealthy
Also doubt these creepy crawlers are going to last that long - as I still ride a lot of bitumen... Don't mind to much about the price of them - way I see it is I'll have to take the tyre off to tighten up the wheel again and grind the top off the spokes more each time I do it.
Yesterday went for my usual 20k, ride with lots of steeper stuff - I know the track so well and where I had had to stop for cool downs. that circuit I had to stop twice to cool the motor in 26"
Now I have no excuse to stop for a cold beer
- I can't get the motor over 90 degrees celcius at all.day off Wednesday and I will take the bike up for a really long true test with 21s!
John Bozi
100 kW
I can't decide, but for aesthetic matching purposes and the trust in their company I want to have Maxxis front. After riding a bit over the last few days, I really don't think going to 24" front will improve anything, but possibly make the chainring get hit more....
Is the highroller the best for dry patches of loose gravel? They are what I fear the most as 2 out of 3 of my stacks this year were caused by the front wheel sliding out in front of me.
How much tyre width help keep the wheel on the ground? I know the fatter the tyre the taller it becomes too so if width doesn't make that much difference I would go to 2.35" to slightly drop the front lower. Not only that I don't want to spend anymore money on a rim that suits 2.7" (which is also available.)
For aesthetic purposes I like the chopper and pitbike/enduro look of shorter fatt back with thinner taller front. For example:
Is the highroller the best for dry patches of loose gravel? They are what I fear the most as 2 out of 3 of my stacks this year were caused by the front wheel sliding out in front of me.
How much tyre width help keep the wheel on the ground? I know the fatter the tyre the taller it becomes too so if width doesn't make that much difference I would go to 2.35" to slightly drop the front lower. Not only that I don't want to spend anymore money on a rim that suits 2.7" (which is also available.)
For aesthetic purposes I like the chopper and pitbike/enduro look of shorter fatt back with thinner taller front. For example:
John Bozi
100 kW
Hard to want to stop to do the drive by recording when having so much fun but I did record a bit of just waffle around on my first big true ride today.
I'll upload soonish.
Heres a few pics of her from the ride today @ 21s for the first time.
[youtube]EiQcoklI_fI[/youtube]
I'll upload soonish.
Heres a few pics of her from the ride today @ 21s for the first time.
[youtube]EiQcoklI_fI[/youtube]
Samd
10 MW
Heya John, finally found that battery plug proto for the square PVC tube. If it's still on the cards I can print a second one for you if you cover postage and a couple of bucks for filament.
John Bozi
100 kW
Samd the top plug would be useful but what I see as the most important would be is some kind of brace that works against gravity. A plug and a way to strap and take most the weight to the down tube.
Any progress on the downtube box?
I just uploaded this update to the bike today.
[youtube]39hyZ22nNr8[/youtube]
Any progress on the downtube box?
I just uploaded this update to the bike today.
[youtube]39hyZ22nNr8[/youtube]
John Bozi
100 kW
Nothing crazier than a soft bit of mountain biking. The motor is cool to get out there without a car and get home quick. 
[youtube]jI86gD6Fcf4[/youtube]
[youtube]jI86gD6Fcf4[/youtube]
oldhaq
100 W
ROCK ON!!!
Luvit
Luvit
