John Bozi
100 kW
Pendrag can you measure the width of your shock and tell me exactly where those adjustment nozzles point out and if forwards how far.
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- Thread starter John Bozi
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pendragon8000
100 kW
Yeah mate when I get home I'll do dome photos with a ruler.John Bozi said:
John Bozi
100 kW
Did my usual early morning bread run for hot bread from the bakery, decided to take the long way back on the main road as it is super smooth long bit of bitumen and very flat, giving me a nice top speed indicator.
on the side of the road there are kind of triangular concreted parts that are made for busses to veer of to bus stops so that they dont hold up the traffic. As I had cars behind me I veered gently onto it and mofo almost had a stack of a life time.
the concrete is not flush with the bitumen but you cant see it! As I was leaning left my tyres front then rear got stuck on the line and I threw my left leg out and banged my foot on my toe down really hard to catch what I was expecting a huge fall at about 40kmh.
Some how managed zig zag my balance back.
far out it would have been a very painful fall probably tangled into the bike.
Makes you lose lots of confidence as a fast rider but I think I learnt a valuable lesson getting off really cheap.
Most cyclists would probably not have this problem as it was on an uphill with very little chance to get enough speed to hit it the way I did. I'd report it to the council otherwise.
on the side of the road there are kind of triangular concreted parts that are made for busses to veer of to bus stops so that they dont hold up the traffic. As I had cars behind me I veered gently onto it and mofo almost had a stack of a life time.
the concrete is not flush with the bitumen but you cant see it! As I was leaning left my tyres front then rear got stuck on the line and I threw my left leg out and banged my foot on my toe down really hard to catch what I was expecting a huge fall at about 40kmh.
Some how managed zig zag my balance back.
far out it would have been a very painful fall probably tangled into the bike.
Makes you lose lots of confidence as a fast rider but I think I learnt a valuable lesson getting off really cheap.
Most cyclists would probably not have this problem as it was on an uphill with very little chance to get enough speed to hit it the way I did. I'd report it to the council otherwise.
John Bozi
100 kW
pendragon8000
100 kW
the rebound adjuster and air valve are sticking out fron the diameter of the can by less than 10mm
the dianeter of the can is about 40mm.
a=~20mm
b=~6mm
John Bozi
100 kW
Thanks pend, your pics are confusing, is that a big black budu? nah it must be velcro cover?
thats for sure space saving.
went over to newbs today, chatting about batteries in particular, but time didnt allow for me to get to a final buy. He wacked his 15ah 12s in a back pack for me to try and its only a few volts worse than my headways and without the ca3 I highly doubt id notice much difference. I was surprised how light the pack felt on my back. I thought it would feel much worse.
I could live with it on my back but Id still eventually triangulate it.
I was ready to order the batteries but the charger I am not sure. Keep in mind I am new to lipo and scared and confused about the options so I felt a delay is good.
I think I want a 12s charger but there is a good chance I will probably up to 18s so I dont want to make mistakes.
even though 12s is in my mind seeming like the best realistic suburban set up, I know I wont be satisfied there and as everyone says it is not as efficient as going the next step up.
I still know my most rides are down the shops and back just under 2ahs and the lightness would let me have a fool around on the jumps for a bit each time. almost make me want to get a light motor to get a real bike feeling on them
I trust.
thats for sure space saving.
went over to newbs today, chatting about batteries in particular, but time didnt allow for me to get to a final buy. He wacked his 15ah 12s in a back pack for me to try and its only a few volts worse than my headways and without the ca3 I highly doubt id notice much difference. I was surprised how light the pack felt on my back. I thought it would feel much worse.
I could live with it on my back but Id still eventually triangulate it.
I was ready to order the batteries but the charger I am not sure. Keep in mind I am new to lipo and scared and confused about the options so I felt a delay is good.
I think I want a 12s charger but there is a good chance I will probably up to 18s so I dont want to make mistakes.
even though 12s is in my mind seeming like the best realistic suburban set up, I know I wont be satisfied there and as everyone says it is not as efficient as going the next step up.
I still know my most rides are down the shops and back just under 2ahs and the lightness would let me have a fool around on the jumps for a bit each time. almost make me want to get a light motor to get a real bike feeling on them
I trust.
pendragon8000
100 kW
"budu" haha . yeah i use lizard skin shock covers.
with charging lipo you have to manualy balance them . that means make the cells the same volatge. it can be done at full, mid, or empty. but generaly for time saving ppl full charge balance by charging all cells to 4.1 or 4.2v (4.1 may increase cell life but it's not really proven afaik)
so to full charge balance use the bc168 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AOK-BC168-1-6S-8A-200W-Super-Speed-LCD-Intellective-Balance-Charger-Discharger-/150735495200
i use 2 of these to charge my monster bike battery 2 quaters at a time (half at a time).
this charger requires a hefty powersupply to run properly:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/181232440145?lpid=87 there are other no name brands if you want to save $20 but i had one sent to me with the voltage set to 110v and blew a fuse when i pluged it in. easy fix (for me) but if i was you buy the brand name psu(power supply)
ok so that can charge the batteries through the balance leads:
you have 1 of these per pack and if you want to parallel multiple packs you need to get the parallel lead for that and charge through it to chrage that parallel group at a time. eg 18s 2p, 6 blockls of 6s grouped in pairs with paralleled balance leads connected to cell monitors or charger.
parallel leads:
so then you wan to put the 3 paralleled 6s into 1 big 18s... its best to make a plug that can connect them in series and then connect to your controller, preferably IMO with a precharge resistor so no sparks to freak you out or wear out the connector. anderson powerpoles are good cos they plug together like lego and you can make the plug how you wan. eg 6 negative nd 6 positive from the battery then on the other plug the first positive and last negative (or vica-versa) have wires going off to your controller plug with 75v HOC(hot off charge) and the other andersons pp plugs series together:
battery1 + to controller plug +
battery1 - to battery2 +
battery2 - to battery3 +
battery3 - to controller plug -
you can just hard wire them but then you cant parallel charge the battery pack, but i would advise against that for a you with less electronics experiance. parallel charging with the bc168 can lead to trouble if you forget to disconect the series connector or if a plug is dodgee you will not charge all the cells but they will appear to be charged with 4.2v across the screen on all cells.
if you use a bulk charger that runs 900watts you can disconect the controller and plug that in to power up your cells the same way you charge your battery now. just check that the cells are of simalar voltage (balanced) regularly so that no cells over charge and explode or catch fire. bms-battery has these:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/457-alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html
i have the 1200watt model and its over kill. charges so quick its probly not good for the cells and its a bit too big for a back pack. 900watt would be quite fast still but fit in a back pack.
you can charge with only a bc168 or an RC charger but it takes 3 seperate charges to do it.
i think the best option is bulk charge and balance charge each of the 3 pairs. this would take about 1hr unless you really flatened the battery it might be longer.
rc chargers are unreliable from what ive heared, they arent deisghned to charge the sort of capacity we use and burn out pretty quick. although the more expensive ones like "turnigy fat boy work station" and "icharger 3010b" may be reliable and powerfull. note those rc chargers will NOT charge through the balance leads only and require a conection to the main power leads so you would have to disconect everything, or when making the pack have extra conectors wired in.
info overload!
with charging lipo you have to manualy balance them . that means make the cells the same volatge. it can be done at full, mid, or empty. but generaly for time saving ppl full charge balance by charging all cells to 4.1 or 4.2v (4.1 may increase cell life but it's not really proven afaik)
so to full charge balance use the bc168 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AOK-BC168-1-6S-8A-200W-Super-Speed-LCD-Intellective-Balance-Charger-Discharger-/150735495200
i use 2 of these to charge my monster bike battery 2 quaters at a time (half at a time).
this charger requires a hefty powersupply to run properly:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/181232440145?lpid=87 there are other no name brands if you want to save $20 but i had one sent to me with the voltage set to 110v and blew a fuse when i pluged it in. easy fix (for me) but if i was you buy the brand name psu(power supply)
ok so that can charge the batteries through the balance leads:
you have 1 of these per pack and if you want to parallel multiple packs you need to get the parallel lead for that and charge through it to chrage that parallel group at a time. eg 18s 2p, 6 blockls of 6s grouped in pairs with paralleled balance leads connected to cell monitors or charger.
parallel leads:
so then you wan to put the 3 paralleled 6s into 1 big 18s... its best to make a plug that can connect them in series and then connect to your controller, preferably IMO with a precharge resistor so no sparks to freak you out or wear out the connector. anderson powerpoles are good cos they plug together like lego and you can make the plug how you wan. eg 6 negative nd 6 positive from the battery then on the other plug the first positive and last negative (or vica-versa) have wires going off to your controller plug with 75v HOC(hot off charge) and the other andersons pp plugs series together:
battery1 + to controller plug +
battery1 - to battery2 +
battery2 - to battery3 +
battery3 - to controller plug -
you can just hard wire them but then you cant parallel charge the battery pack, but i would advise against that for a you with less electronics experiance. parallel charging with the bc168 can lead to trouble if you forget to disconect the series connector or if a plug is dodgee you will not charge all the cells but they will appear to be charged with 4.2v across the screen on all cells.
if you use a bulk charger that runs 900watts you can disconect the controller and plug that in to power up your cells the same way you charge your battery now. just check that the cells are of simalar voltage (balanced) regularly so that no cells over charge and explode or catch fire. bms-battery has these:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/457-alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html
i have the 1200watt model and its over kill. charges so quick its probly not good for the cells and its a bit too big for a back pack. 900watt would be quite fast still but fit in a back pack.
you can charge with only a bc168 or an RC charger but it takes 3 seperate charges to do it.
i think the best option is bulk charge and balance charge each of the 3 pairs. this would take about 1hr unless you really flatened the battery it might be longer.
rc chargers are unreliable from what ive heared, they arent deisghned to charge the sort of capacity we use and burn out pretty quick. although the more expensive ones like "turnigy fat boy work station" and "icharger 3010b" may be reliable and powerfull. note those rc chargers will NOT charge through the balance leads only and require a conection to the main power leads so you would have to disconect everything, or when making the pack have extra conectors wired in.
info overload!
John Bozi
100 kW
im lapping up the info thanks pend, i just need to decide on battery (even though I am happy with any 6s - i am not sure of how many will fit my triangle)
Does anyone advise against going to the higher than 5ah bricks? I know Newb and a few others say the batches they have bought didn't hold up.
I still dream of simplicity of having just enough. I know they will wear down quickly but I really couldn't careless. If I can a year of fun riding out of them I'll be happy. I think it will safer option with less spaghetti to deal with if I just had 3 bricks, maybe have an extra 3 for times when long rides will be done but they usually happen less than once a week or once a fortnight.
An 8ah would forfill 95% of my trips. even if real world its actually 7ah it will still at the higher voltage suit the great majority of my rides.
Does anyone advise against going to the higher than 5ah bricks? I know Newb and a few others say the batches they have bought didn't hold up.
I still dream of simplicity of having just enough. I know they will wear down quickly but I really couldn't careless. If I can a year of fun riding out of them I'll be happy. I think it will safer option with less spaghetti to deal with if I just had 3 bricks, maybe have an extra 3 for times when long rides will be done but they usually happen less than once a week or once a fortnight.
An 8ah would forfill 95% of my trips. even if real world its actually 7ah it will still at the higher voltage suit the great majority of my rides.
pendragon8000
100 kW
AFAIK, turnigy blue pack 40c are the best. Reliable and will give more power for longer without saging.
I've been told by a pro RC guy that nanotec puff up because they have less mass for the heat, so they get hotter quicker.
I think they are more expensive because they are smaller and lighte, not necessarily better.
3 of the 5ah 6s 40c would be a good start. You could double it into 2p one you figure how to fit it.(order 3 more)
I've been told by a pro RC guy that nanotec puff up because they have less mass for the heat, so they get hotter quicker.
I think they are more expensive because they are smaller and lighte, not necessarily better.
3 of the 5ah 6s 40c would be a good start. You could double it into 2p one you figure how to fit it.(order 3 more)
John Bozi
100 kW
I dont think sag will be a problem for me coming from 48-46v underload, so if nobody mentions higher ah is better Im gonna go with the cheapest to start.
18579 ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 25C (AUS Warehouse) 5000 25C 772g OK
32972 ZIPPY Compact 5000mAh 6S 25C Lipo Pack (AUS Warehouse) 5000 25C 703g OK
For $5 an extra 5c supposed rating.
and then for an extra $4 for the "compact" although longer.
Might get 3 of each to see which fit and last longer.
ps I was doing jumps over speed bumps today and was playing around with holding throttle down or not, man when you keep throttle down and land on the back wheel it makes you start wheeling, cool
18579 ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 25C (AUS Warehouse) 5000 25C 772g OK
32972 ZIPPY Compact 5000mAh 6S 25C Lipo Pack (AUS Warehouse) 5000 25C 703g OK
For $5 an extra 5c supposed rating.
and then for an extra $4 for the "compact" although longer.
Might get 3 of each to see which fit and last longer.
ps I was doing jumps over speed bumps today and was playing around with holding throttle down or not, man when you keep throttle down and land on the back wheel it makes you start wheeling, cool
pendragon8000
100 kW
OK. I see your point about sag. Let me put it to you like this...
You can pull about 2kw at the moment?
So I you pulled 2kw from 25c zippys 2000/72 =28amps
If you pull that sort of power from those they will hit low voltage alarm after delivering 75-50% of rated capacity after a few months in sub 20°c weather. So you may need to pull power consumption down using the CA just to get the capacity from the pack. That's why I recommend 40c turnigy blue they won't sag to low voltage alarm after half capacity is used so easily.
Also the quality control on those is much better and all cells should be identical.
Cheaper ones have inconsistent capacity and internal resistance. So 1 cell might sag much more than others, or earlyer, activating low voltage alarm.
If you want only 5ah 1p you better make it a good pack u less your happy with 1kw of power after the first few km.
If you had a mid drive or geared hub that would be different. 4065 is thirsty.
You can pull about 2kw at the moment?
So I you pulled 2kw from 25c zippys 2000/72 =28amps
If you pull that sort of power from those they will hit low voltage alarm after delivering 75-50% of rated capacity after a few months in sub 20°c weather. So you may need to pull power consumption down using the CA just to get the capacity from the pack. That's why I recommend 40c turnigy blue they won't sag to low voltage alarm after half capacity is used so easily.
Also the quality control on those is much better and all cells should be identical.
Cheaper ones have inconsistent capacity and internal resistance. So 1 cell might sag much more than others, or earlyer, activating low voltage alarm.
If you want only 5ah 1p you better make it a good pack u less your happy with 1kw of power after the first few km.
If you had a mid drive or geared hub that would be different. 4065 is thirsty.
John Bozi
100 kW
pendragon8000 said:
I pull 2kw 48v/40-5amps with headway now,
can't lipo deliver 72v/40-5amps? about 3kw? 25c if I understand should mean 25x5ah=125amps even if it is off by half at half the pack or even a quater it should deliver..
ps my bike got wet in the rain today, worried about it, was short ride up from shops about 5 mins when the rain caught me. is there any tips? should keep the motor or running to keep it hot or something to drive out mositure?
pendragon8000
100 kW
with wet use wd 40 or rp7, wherever water is present still. the ca is the bigest issue with wayer from what ive seen, it should dry up and work again anyway. dont know if your battery bms got wet?..
anyway with lipo yeah it will be okay for the first 100 cycles then it will sag more and more and in the cold it will be worse and after 1/2 rated capacity it will show.
worst case scenario , cold winter morning say 10ºC after 150 cycles pulling 2kw after 1/2 rated capacity i would expect the cells to hit 3.3v
the turniogy blue 40c , from what i know would last longer in the same condidtions. possibly 3/4 discharge i would expect or more.
anyway with lipo yeah it will be okay for the first 100 cycles then it will sag more and more and in the cold it will be worse and after 1/2 rated capacity it will show.
worst case scenario , cold winter morning say 10ºC after 150 cycles pulling 2kw after 1/2 rated capacity i would expect the cells to hit 3.3v
the turniogy blue 40c , from what i know would last longer in the same condidtions. possibly 3/4 discharge i would expect or more.
John Bozi
100 kW
The moisture didn't end up being a problem touch wood.
Although the the main torque arm looks a lot browner than when I first got it, just noticed that watching an old build video before I had ridden the bike.
I need to get some paint on it.
If there was any interest in my battery, controller and charger or had sold it I would have bought the lipo and new controller. But it's looking like I won't be able to sell it which is making um and ah about racing to upgrade.
I'm toying with the idea of running a temporary 12s 5ah pack with my current controller, and moving the controller to on top of the bike. Two reasons for this.
1. easy for a noob like me to ease into using lipo and maintaining a very small pack.
2. I won't be left without a ridable bike while I reconfigure the headways and build the triangle box.
3. I still find the headways so suitable for my short rides, where I just get home and plug in the charger to the battery while mounted on the bike and walk away, sometimes forget its on when I go down the next day in the morning. I don't undo anything or open anything. It is literally a few seconds to plug in the charging wires. I don't really like the idea of maintaining 18s3p lipo when all I do is run down to the shops and back on 2ahs 90% of the time.
I am playing with the idea of having a long range bike and a short range bike. If I can get the headways into the triangle this hasa bike will be my main short trip run around bike. While the battery has another couple of years in it, it seems pointless to pull it off for now. Sure I could put it on my tank and go to work on it, but first would like to see how she goes in the triangle on the Hasa.
With the long range bike sky's the limit. 18s3p or even 4p depending and would ride it probably once a week. that extra time to maintain, pull batteries on and off the bike etc. would be worth it when going on long journeys. I like the safer way Newb takes his batteries off his bike everytime he charges. That's suitable for long trips, but would be a pain in the ass for a spin down to the shops.
p.s. just ordered one of these for $2 for the rear wheel valve.
Although the the main torque arm looks a lot browner than when I first got it, just noticed that watching an old build video before I had ridden the bike.
I need to get some paint on it.
If there was any interest in my battery, controller and charger or had sold it I would have bought the lipo and new controller. But it's looking like I won't be able to sell it which is making um and ah about racing to upgrade.
I'm toying with the idea of running a temporary 12s 5ah pack with my current controller, and moving the controller to on top of the bike. Two reasons for this.
1. easy for a noob like me to ease into using lipo and maintaining a very small pack.
2. I won't be left without a ridable bike while I reconfigure the headways and build the triangle box.
3. I still find the headways so suitable for my short rides, where I just get home and plug in the charger to the battery while mounted on the bike and walk away, sometimes forget its on when I go down the next day in the morning. I don't undo anything or open anything. It is literally a few seconds to plug in the charging wires. I don't really like the idea of maintaining 18s3p lipo when all I do is run down to the shops and back on 2ahs 90% of the time.
I am playing with the idea of having a long range bike and a short range bike. If I can get the headways into the triangle this hasa bike will be my main short trip run around bike. While the battery has another couple of years in it, it seems pointless to pull it off for now. Sure I could put it on my tank and go to work on it, but first would like to see how she goes in the triangle on the Hasa.
With the long range bike sky's the limit. 18s3p or even 4p depending and would ride it probably once a week. that extra time to maintain, pull batteries on and off the bike etc. would be worth it when going on long journeys. I like the safer way Newb takes his batteries off his bike everytime he charges. That's suitable for long trips, but would be a pain in the ass for a spin down to the shops.
p.s. just ordered one of these for $2 for the rear wheel valve.
Will operate a bit like a rear light but I reckon will look bloody awesome.
John Bozi
100 kW
sorry to Pendragon for wasting your time measuring up your shock. I decided to get a cheap dnm shock. $200 is a bit steep for my already blown out totally changed out bike.
Add the new shock which I just ordered. $85
hope I dont notice a big drop in softness.
Add the new shock which I just ordered. $85
hope I dont notice a big drop in softness.
pendragon8000
100 kW
Looks good. Gas suspension is more tuneable so could be an improvement.
John Bozi
100 kW
pendragon8000 said:so to full charge balance use the bc168 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AOK-BC168-1-6S-8A-200W-Super-Speed-LCD-Intellective-Balance-Charger-Discharger-/150735495200
i use 2 of these to charge my monster bike battery 2 quaters at a time (half at a time).
this charger requires a hefty powersupply to run properly:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/181232440145?lpid=87 there are other no name brands if you want to save $20 but i had one sent to me with the voltage set to 110v and blew a fuse when i pluged it in. easy fix (for me) but if i was you buy the brand name psu(power supply)
ok so that can charge the batteries through the balance leads:
you have 1 of these per pack and if you want to parallel multiple packs you need to get the parallel lead for that and charge through it to chrage that parallel group at a time. eg 18s 2p, 6 blockls of 6s grouped in pairs with paralleled balance leads connected to cell monitors or charger.
parallel leads:
so then you wan to put the 3 paralleled 6s into 1 big 18s... its best to make a plug that can connect them in series and then connect to your controller, preferably IMO with a precharge resistor so no sparks to freak you out or wear out the connector. anderson powerpoles are good cos they plug together like lego and you can make the plug how you wan. eg 6 negative nd 6 positive from the battery then on the other plug the first positive and last negative (or vica-versa) have wires going off to your controller plug with 75v HOC(hot off charge) and the other andersons pp plugs series together:
battery1 + to controller plug +
battery1 - to battery2 +
battery2 - to battery3 +
battery3 - to controller plug -
you can just hard wire them but then you cant parallel charge the battery pack, but i would advise against that for a you with less electronics experiance. parallel charging with the bc168 can lead to trouble if you forget to disconect the series connector or if a plug is dodgee you will not charge all the cells but they will appear to be charged with 4.2v across the screen on all cells.
if you use a bulk charger that runs 900watts you can disconect the controller and plug that in to power up your cells the same way you charge your battery now. just check that the cells are of simalar voltage (balanced) regularly so that no cells over charge and explode or catch fire. bms-battery has these:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/457-alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html
i have the 1200watt model and its over kill. charges so quick its probly not good for the cells and its a bit too big for a back pack. 900watt would be quite fast still but fit in a back pack.
you can charge with only a bc168 or an RC charger but it takes 3 seperate charges to do it.
i think the best option is bulk charge and balance charge each of the 3 pairs. this would take about 1hr unless you really flatened the battery it might be longer.
rc chargers are unreliable from what ive heared, they arent deisghned to charge the sort of capacity we use and burn out pretty quick. although the more expensive ones like "turnigy fat boy work station" and "icharger 3010b" may be reliable and powerfull. note those rc chargers will NOT charge through the balance leads only and require a conection to the main power leads so you would have to disconect everything, or when making the pack have extra conectors wired in.
info overload!
I really want to order a mini lipo kit asap, because the shock has been dispatched, and im not pulling anything apart until I got the lipo kit all together.
Ok 12s1p
1. so do I need to buy balance leads? I thought they are included with the battery.
2. If I buy two of the charger you recommend do I need two power supplies?
3. do you have a link to a power supply to use that will not blow a fuse?
4. What voltage is the power supply to be? Is voltage like what we use from the wall in the house? or the voltage that my pack will be running?
5. when the batteries are in 1 series do i need 1 cell monitor or 2?
6. What harness wire do I need to series the two 6s together?
apart from two batteries, moitors, chargers, power supplies, harness...
I will order xt150s, and the turnigy watt metre
anything else?
If your have a brew fb/skype us
While I'm working on the triangle I'll have two of these batteries
in this case that I already have (hopefully just fit)
John Bozi
100 kW
John Bozi said:
Dam, all these ideas were a waste of time. The maximum width that the above idea would be possible is 140mm external of the battery box to fit between the pedals.
Just got this picture and info from Dingo
the real world width of the battery is 150mm
another idea down the gurgler.
Looks like this headway go into the a modified topeak battery box with extra support because my tank commuter is a hardtail.
And I need to buy new lipo/controller.
deffx
100 W
Will your pedals even reach the battery in that lay out? or get A wider bottom bracket
Could you squeeze in one of cellmans triangle packs? Or are you wanting higher voltage
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=158
Could you squeeze in one of cellmans triangle packs? Or are you wanting higher voltage
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=158
pendragon8000
100 kW
1.John Bozi said:pendragon8000 said:so to full charge balance use the bc168 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AOK-BC168-1-6S-8A-200W-Super-Speed-LCD-Intellective-Balance-Charger-Discharger-/150735495200
i use 2 of these to charge my monster bike battery 2 quaters at a time (half at a time).
this charger requires a hefty powersupply to run properly:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/181232440145?lpid=87 there are other no name brands if you want to save $20 but i had one sent to me with the voltage set to 110v and blew a fuse when i pluged it in. easy fix (for me) but if i was you buy the brand name psu(power supply)
ok so that can charge the batteries through the balance leads:
you have 1 of these per pack and if you want to parallel multiple packs you need to get the parallel lead for that and charge through it to chrage that parallel group at a time. eg 18s 2p, 6 blockls of 6s grouped in pairs with paralleled balance leads connected to cell monitors or charger.
parallel leads:
so then you wan to put the 3 paralleled 6s into 1 big 18s... its best to make a plug that can connect them in series and then connect to your controller, preferably IMO with a precharge resistor so no sparks to freak you out or wear out the connector. anderson powerpoles are good cos they plug together like lego and you can make the plug how you wan. eg 6 negative nd 6 positive from the battery then on the other plug the first positive and last negative (or vica-versa) have wires going off to your controller plug with 75v HOC(hot off charge) and the other andersons pp plugs series together:
battery1 + to controller plug +
battery1 - to battery2 +
battery2 - to battery3 +
battery3 - to controller plug -
you can just hard wire them but then you cant parallel charge the battery pack, but i would advise against that for a you with less electronics experiance. parallel charging with the bc168 can lead to trouble if you forget to disconect the series connector or if a plug is dodgee you will not charge all the cells but they will appear to be charged with 4.2v across the screen on all cells.
if you use a bulk charger that runs 900watts you can disconect the controller and plug that in to power up your cells the same way you charge your battery now. just check that the cells are of simalar voltage (balanced) regularly so that no cells over charge and explode or catch fire. bms-battery has these:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/457-alloy-shell-900w-lifepo4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ev-charger.html
i have the 1200watt model and its over kill. charges so quick its probly not good for the cells and its a bit too big for a back pack. 900watt would be quite fast still but fit in a back pack.
you can charge with only a bc168 or an RC charger but it takes 3 seperate charges to do it.
i think the best option is bulk charge and balance charge each of the 3 pairs. this would take about 1hr unless you really flatened the battery it might be longer.
rc chargers are unreliable from what ive heared, they arent deisghned to charge the sort of capacity we use and burn out pretty quick. although the more expensive ones like "turnigy fat boy work station" and "icharger 3010b" may be reliable and powerfull. note those rc chargers will NOT charge through the balance leads only and require a conection to the main power leads so you would have to disconect everything, or when making the pack have extra conectors wired in.
info overload!
I really want to order a mini lipo kit asap, because the shock has been dispatched, and im not pulling anything apart until I got the lipo kit all together.
Ok 12s1p
1. so do I need to buy balance leads? I thought they are included with the battery.
2. If I buy two of the charger you recommend do I need two power supplies?
3. do you have a link to a power supply to use that will not blow a fuse?
4. What voltage is the power supply to be? Is voltage like what we use from the wall in the house? or the voltage that my pack will be running?
5. when the batteries are in 1 series do i need 1 cell monitor or 2?
6. What harness wire do I need to series the two 6s together?
apart from two batteries, moitors, chargers, power supplies, harness...
I will order xt150s, and the turnigy watt metre
anything else?
If your have a brew fb/skype us
While I'm working on the triangle I'll have two of these batteries
in this case that I already have (hopefully just fit)
(One Side Case): 168*125*50MM
balance leads are on the batteries but you might want an extension to reach from the charger to the battery. unless you want to take the battery off the bike. i would use a parallel lead from the charger and extensions offf that. the thing is the heat of 8mps per channel will eventually fry the pins in the leads cos they are rated for 4amps but the charger has beefy conections behind the plug so that one will usually hold up indefinately.
power supply-charger-double lead-extension-battery
________________________\extension-battery
2.
yeah 1 psu(powersupply) per charger
3.
yeah the one i linked is legit and should be fine.
4.
you need a cell monitor per 6 s parallel block so 2 for 12s
5.
the harnes should be specific for the battery
it says "Discharge Plug: 4mm Bullet-Connector"
to make that you'll need 2 and cennect a neg to a pos and use the other neg and pos to goto the controller via an anderson plug like you have currently, they are available from jaycar.
you could chop this up
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43436__4mm_Male_Female_Bullet_Brushless_Motor_Extension_Lead_250mm_AUS_Warehouse_.html
and use the black for neg , red for pos and yellow to series the packs.
or use this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32157__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Pre_installed_Bullets_10pcs_set_AUS_Warehouse_.html
and make a more drunk proof version , im guessing your dad will have to make it up for you.
heres the jaycar plug you need to connect it to your controller
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4424
or this one
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4420
not sure what size.
John in CR
100 TW
laying cells down perpendicular to the frame is the hard way to try to fit Headways, because they're so long. In line with the frame will be much easier. Only a handful will fit inside the triangle, but with 1 cell width added to each side of the frame then you pick up a lot of extra space, since the inside of the triangle is no longer your size limitation. The cells can be arranged different ways or even angled, but here's just one idea.
John Bozi
100 kW
John in CR said:
thanks for the idea, have played with this before and went down and reinvestigated it. the bottom tube is about 5cms so it may come to thinner overall and not using the centre would mean I didn't need a new rear shock. The width wouldn't be an issue as there is no pedal to clear up that high, however it would be keeping the weight higher and compromising the handling. The other drawback for me is that I don't have the know how to split a pack.
My plan was to do minimal changes to the pack - hoping balances leads were long enough.
The other thing as in your diagram, the pack will either come above the toptube or below the down tube with a corner sticking out. below would be riskier near the front tyre fully compressed, on top would stick out awkwardly.
The box needed to do them as in the diagram would also be headway specific, so one day when the headways are to be replaced to lipo I will need to build a triangle box again. Building the largest triangle box now will give me lots of choices down the track.
15cm internal width would allow something like 3 lipo bricks side by side - still havent measured this up but it would be perfect if I get 18s3p eventually in the triangle.
Is there a 2cm wider bottom bracket on the market? this could solve everything.
Other option is not to change controller for this bike but up to 14s because I just found this product (I was previously turned off by 7s batteries because of the 3,4 balance lead complications)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34251__7S_Battery_Pack_Balance_Charge_Adapter_Lead.html
Just found hyperion charger for two batteries at the same time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyperion-EO...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c739c8c87
not as convenient as 6s but there are alarms for upto 8s
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LiPo-Battery-Monitor-Low-voltage-Tester-Meter-Buzzer-Alarm-/310559391965
thinking of getting either 2 or 4 or 6 of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21384__ZIPPY_Compact_5800mAh_7S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html
John Bozi
100 kW
John Bozi said:
shock has arrived I also bought a shock pump, so just listing info here for future reference for my Rokshox revelation fork, which has been great riding really soft and saggy.
for 100kg 135-200psi max
I am not installing the rear shock until I get new lipo bricks and from there decide how much triangle I will need.
Hi John, been following your post with interest for quite some time and looking to get a similar motor.
I hope you don't mind clarifying a few questions.
- There was a point where you made a comment re: swapping the 4065 to the 3565 - this was probably in comment to the issues you were getting the motor within the 135mm dropouts? Why didn't you go for it?
-Was there a difference in top speed/ total V consumption that the 3565 was not able to achieve that that 4065 can?
- i have yet to read/ see any one so far who is able to achieve the 65km @48V!
- What was the max speed and average speed did you achieve at 48v 40A on the flat?
- Wires - did you end up having any issues with the clearance of the wires too close to the the heads of the spinning screws? or the brake able that was only mm off the motor? How did you end up resolving those issue?
- Add the extra washer to use the smaller cog - did that off centre your wheel? What was the issue being slightly off centred? Did it rub into any parts?
- How many spacers did you end up using on either side?
- 7spd freewheel - i think you put this in and took out the front derailleur & front gear shifter is that correct? From your last video you swap the rear gear shifter to the left side?
- Did you also end up cutting or swapping the chain because of the free wheel? You mentioned you did swap out the rear derailleur to 7spd.
thanks!
@J
I hope you don't mind clarifying a few questions.
- There was a point where you made a comment re: swapping the 4065 to the 3565 - this was probably in comment to the issues you were getting the motor within the 135mm dropouts? Why didn't you go for it?
-Was there a difference in top speed/ total V consumption that the 3565 was not able to achieve that that 4065 can?
- i have yet to read/ see any one so far who is able to achieve the 65km @48V!
- What was the max speed and average speed did you achieve at 48v 40A on the flat?
- Wires - did you end up having any issues with the clearance of the wires too close to the the heads of the spinning screws? or the brake able that was only mm off the motor? How did you end up resolving those issue?
- Add the extra washer to use the smaller cog - did that off centre your wheel? What was the issue being slightly off centred? Did it rub into any parts?
- How many spacers did you end up using on either side?
- 7spd freewheel - i think you put this in and took out the front derailleur & front gear shifter is that correct? From your last video you swap the rear gear shifter to the left side?
- Did you also end up cutting or swapping the chain because of the free wheel? You mentioned you did swap out the rear derailleur to 7spd.
thanks!
@J
John Bozi
100 kW
Wow you just gave me a huge summary of a lot of stuff I have done. A ton of questions I had to go through myself...efergy kb said:
I never tried the 35.
I'd go 35 instead of 40 if I hadn't already recieved something in shipping if you know what I mean, whose gonna make something out of paying extra for returning stuff.
Well 48v 65 is totally misleading on the seller side, you have to understand that not everyone is a electrician. It's a sore point for me, because I trust a lot of things from them.
Average speed is up to whatever you do, for me its under 30kmh but that means very little. I have lots of questions to ask about the cav3, like how is this calculated? If I leave it on while the bike is standing still against the wall etc.
Maximum I am pretty happy that on a true smoothe flat section I can hit 50kmh possibly a few ks over, but remember weight and lots of other things like wind tyres sizes are not perfect.
Yes the wire coming out of the motor is ridiculously close to the screws holding in the rotor, but they have never touched touch wood. They look safe to me and most guys running huge motors are running similarly close stuff.
without a doubt if you buy the motor make sure they give you the 4mm spacer, on top of that just wait till you set things up roughly and see where you want the wheel etc aligned, a few washers here or there are up to you particular setup and preference.
I never trully wanted 7 gears nor did I think they would ever work. I stuck with that many again becaus
e its a pain to swap. If I could choose I'd go single speed. but it is nice having a granny gear to peddle a super heavy bike that feels like your peddling up hill when on the flat (without motor) important when around people or trying to get home when something has failed.
I do love the twist gear changer because it saves space and is similar to twisting throttle. to be honest I cant remember how bad the gears changed before, but they for sure dont change perfectly now.
My choice in hindsight is to work out a way how to get about 3 gears working perfectly in line, but that is custom stuff. You can pull the cassette apart if you understand that stuff, choose your lowest, highest and the middle, and see if you can get a straight line.
Haven't changed the chain.
