Anyone have experience with this motor?

S

Santa'sLittleHelper

100 W
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
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Location
SoCal USA
MY1018 24V36V 250W 450W Electric Rare Earth DC Motor + Controller + Throttle E-bike simple kit Electric Bike Conversion Easy kit MY1018

https://www.amazon.com/MY1018-Electric-Controller-Throttle-Conversion/dp/B01DBRJIQ0/ref=pd_zg_rss_nr_sg_1265458011_3

14cd24x.jpg


Is this used on Currie ebikes?
Is it any good or complete junk?
IS IT QUIET?
Is the fact that it is a “brush” motor an issue?
What does it weigh?
Is it 450rpm at 36V/450W?


Considering it as a mid-drive on a FS MTB with a free-wheel sprocket at the crank used only while climbing hills. The rest of the time it will simply be extra weight and a free-wheel drag on the crank.
 
Yes.
Good solid motor system. Not great, but good.
Hell no.
It will be a little less efficient than a comparable brushed system, but no real issues.
around 5 pounds.
390RPM is the usual for the 36v version, but there were different versions denoted by the suffix at the end of the model number.
 
Found a video of some kind of iZIP with one of these. Didn't sound too bad, but the reviewer did mention the motors are louder than others and can get louder with age/wear. As a throttle only when climbing and off the rest of the time it might not be a bad choice. Evevything is ready to go, just needs a free-wheel sprocket on the motor or a free-wheel crank sprocket.

Are small free-wheel sprockets that fit this motor readily available?
 
markz said:
For a few dollars more you could get a hub motor, with a cheap controller.
Click to expand...

But then you'd have to live with a wheel built on a hub motor, which is almost always weaker and more problematic than an equivalent normal wheel.

Brushed motors have two wires running into them. If you hook them up wrong, the motor runs backwards. There's something comforting about that kind of simplicity and fault tolerance.

Two of my first three e-bikes used brushed motors. They were economical to build and easy to live with.
 
markz said:
For a few dollars more you could get a hub motor, with a cheap controller.
Click to expand...

I'm also looking at small geared front hub motors to mount in the frame tirangle as a mid-drive, but there is the left side disc brake mount spocket attachment point to deal with (can use a right crank arm on the left side of a square BB). d8veh says the Q-series geared front hub motors can run in reverse after flipping the free-wheel mechanism and selecting the proper controller and wire connections, but I'm not sure I'm ready to get that involved with the internals at this stage in the E-bike game.

I have a new eMTB custom build that will be getting a BBS02 and a carbon FS MTB that I'd like to add the lightest setup I can for manual throttle assist when climbing only. The rest of the time that MTB will be pedaled without power, so something with very little to no drag/resistance is desired.

This little geared brush motor is pretty light and if a free-wheel sprocket can be put on the motor and/or crank (still trying to understand the crank free-wheel setups), then it might work well. It also would be much easier to mount it without an axle.
 
If that is the same as the Curries, the internal drive is not well regarded, people say theirs went out. Haven't used the one I have much, its not so much louder.
 
That's a great price, for entry into the ebike world. Once in a while, Craigslist will have an entire Currie ebike for around the same price, these used bikes have the advantage of everything fitting together as it should. Typically, a used Currie bike will need new batteries. The old Currie's used straight cut gears, they were loud, the newer ones use angle cut gears, these make less noise.

24v vs 36v: for a given road speed (and thus a given power output), 36v will pull 0.67 times as much amps as 24v. Amps are a bigger deal than volts, it is high amps that cause problems. Therefore, 36v is better than 24v, for avoiding problems. Another benefit, is that 36v can develop more power than 24v. Battery type: gel cells are the cheapest, but they work their best for very low power applications, lower power than ebikes need. Gel cells also work best when used for less than half their ampere hour rating. For example: I used 36v of gel cells, rated at 12Ah, they did their best at only 5Ah of capacity. Yikes. Another thing, the life of gel cells is very short in ebike use. Reason is that, ebike use draws more current than the gel cells are capable or producing at reasonable life expectancy. So, it is better to use lithium batteries.

Want a good and trouble free ebike experience? My recommendation is to use a direct drive hub motor and lithium batteries. Sure, it costs more up front, but hassle free is a big benefit. Because of cost and doubts about liking ebikes, use the posted setup and gel cells and you will be successful and will likely develop the craving for a hub motor and lithium batteries. Nothing is lost, you gain experience, at low cost, and profit from the knowledge you gained. Besides that, if you go with gel cells, they can be used with a hub motor. The only thing that can go wrong is that the posted kit does not fit the bike you intend to use it on. In that case, you will find another bike on Craigslist or at Frankenbike.

PS, expect to like ebiking more than you think you will.
 
MikeSSS said:
That's a great price, for entry into the ebike world. Once in a while, Craigslist will have an entire Currie ebike for around the same price, these used bikes have the advantage of everything fitting together as it should. Typically, a used Currie bike will need new batteries. The old Currie's used straight cut gears, they were loud, the newer ones use angle cut gears, these make less noise.

24v vs 36v: for a given road speed (and thus a given power output), 36v will pull 0.67 times as much amps as 24v. Amps are a bigger deal than volts, it is high amps that cause problems. Therefore, 36v is better than 24v, for avoiding problems. Another benefit, is that 36v can develop more power than 24v. Battery type: gel cells are the cheapest, but they work their best for very low power applications, lower power than ebikes need. Gel cells also work best when used for less than half their ampere hour rating. For example: I used 36v of gel cells, rated at 12Ah, they did their best at only 5Ah of capacity. Yikes. Another thing, the life of gel cells is very short in ebike use. Reason is that, ebike use draws more current than the gel cells are capable or producing at reasonable life expectancy. So, it is better to use lithium batteries.

Want a good and trouble free ebike experience? My recommendation is to use a direct drive hub motor and lithium batteries. Sure, it costs more up front, but hassle free is a big benefit. Because of cost and doubts about liking ebikes, use the posted setup and gel cells and you will be successful and will likely develop the craving for a hub motor and lithium batteries. Nothing is lost, you gain experience, at low cost, and profit from the knowledge you gained. Besides that, if you go with gel cells, they can be used with a hub motor. The only thing that can go wrong is that the posted kit does not fit the bike you intend to use it on. In that case, you will find another bike on Craigslist or at Frankenbike.

PS, expect to like ebiking more than you think you will.
Click to expand...

All good-to-know infromation. I'm not completely new to E-bikes. My application is for an eMTB, so hub motors as an actual "hub" are not even a consideration. Lithium batteries are a must for weight, power and range. Only different types of mid-drive applications will leverage the power properly for climbing hills.

My particular application this motor is being considered for is a carbon FS MTB with a small triangle area available below the shock that is parallel to the top tube. Size and light weight are key. The MTB must be able to be pedaled as a normal bike without additional drag (or at least the minimal possible), because the motor will only be used when climbing hills. The rest of the time it will be dead weight. The end product has to be California Type 1-2-3 legal to be ridden on trails that MTB's are allowed to ride; I'd prefer it be Type-1. That means no more than 750W, power only works when pedaling and power assist is limited to 20mph.

When considering the law and where I want to ride, DD hub motors are really a no go in my book. Some geared hub motors within the requirements might function okay for some types of MTB use, but the mid-drive setup is really the only way to go for a California Type-1 legal eMTB IMHO.

Thank you for the straight vs. angle cut gear information. I hear you there. The old Austin Mini Cooper S models had straight cut gears, unlike the standard street models. There was a substantial difference in the transmission noise.
 
Dauntless said:
If that is the same as the Curries, the internal drive is not well regarded, people say theirs went out. Haven't used the one I have much, its not so much louder.
Click to expand...

Do you know of a similar geared motor that can run in either direction that is lighter and better?
 
I would not worry one bit about the laws, just do not be a frocking goof and do wheelies in front of the donut shop where the pigs are eating their donuts. In this day and age with everyone wanting to rat others out with their cell phones, dont do wheelies, speed or goof off ANYWHERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! someone can see you. You may have the classic look of a bike, but from a certain distance anything peculiar and not natural to a bicycle, the rats come out. Meaning if you are in a field with houses a certain distance away, doing long wheelies, climbing hills a litter faster then a foot powered bicycle would do. Rats and cell phones.
 
WOW! I don't even know what to say about that... :shock:

Attitudes in your area (country) must be very diferent than mine. Some of those "pigs at the donut shop" you refer to ride with me when off duty. They have one hell of a difficult job to do and put up with so much public BS. E-bike laws here in California are very well thought out and put in place for a reason. Hope you don't get jacked by pedal MTBer's when pouching. That might hurt just as much as a LAPD beating! :lol:

Anyway, i found this kit offered by GNG that uses this motor in 450W-48V form and thought I'd post it here for reference:

http://www.gngebike.com/450wbrushed.htm

:wink:
 
Santa'sLittleHelper said:
Some of those "pigs at the donut shop" you refer to ride with me when off duty. They have one hell of a difficult job to do and put up with so much public BS.
Click to expand...

Trust them at your peril. The potential reward is so meager and the potential cost so great. Good people generally don't enter that line of work. Those few who do, either don't stay, or don't stay good.
 
I keep coming back to this little brush motor for a simple throttle boost mid-drive setup for a trail full suspension eMTB. At 5lbs. mounted low in the carbon frame triangle it is the lightest geared motor I can find that can run at 450W-36V and be easily mounted. Here is a scale cardboard cutout of the space I'm working with, with the MY1018 pictured inside.

4ptszr.jpg


If connected with a free-wheel crank and free-wheel sprocket on the motor I think it will function well under throttle when climbing with further reduced gearing and while free-wheeling most of the time when it's off without too much drag.

I'm new to motors that require a remote controller. Is the YIYUN TECH YK31C 500W-36V BRUSHED controller a good choice? What controller would you reccommend to run the MY1018 at 450W-36V?
 
More newbie controller questions...

Is a Cycle Analyst a controller or does it work in conjunction with a controller?

Can a 36V-500W controller set the volts, watts and amps at a lower levels within its' menus? Are these variables settable?
 
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