Bafang BBSHD, 1000W, 68mm-120mm BB

Woodytx said:
Has anyone figured out how to get more than 30 amps out of the stock controller?
Yes.
 
From here on out , judging by most USA resellers sites, most BBSHD will have Gearsensor controllers for those that can't be bothered with learning to shift. Just what was needed another device to break. Although I will admit the controller version is an improvement. Even though the device still comes with a moisture and mud warning and mounts where most moisture and mud will be found. Argh. Tap brake and shift. Occasionally replace chain and cheap freewheel. Jeebus. It's a bike. It's fixable.
 
tomjasz said:
From here on out , judging by most USA resellers sites, most BBSHD will have Gearsensor controllers for those that can't be bothered with learning to shift. Just what was needed another device to break. Although I will admit the controller version is an improvement. Even though the device still comes with a moisture and mud warning and mounts where most moisture and mud will be found. Argh. Tap brake and shift. Occasionally replace chain and cheap freewheel. Jeebus. It's a bike. It's fixable.


So when your new one arrives, just snip the Gearsensor cable off and pot with silicone....... I suspect that lots of other folks will like having it on their bikes though......
 
Chalo said:
Woodytx said:
Has anyone figured out how to get more than 30 amps out of the stock controller?

You itchin' to strip the nylon gear in there, or what? You already can gear down for as much torque as you could possibly stick to the ground. Why would you want to make a reliable system unreliable for a benefit you already have?

No doubt and much appreciated. There are trade-offs with gearing though. Credible people have tested the BBSHD's limits and believe it can reliably handle a lot more than 30.
 
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Mileage questions are really kind of silly. My 110LB wife who scarcely uses assist, 25 miles.
My fat ass full throttle everywhere, 8-10.

It'd be the perfect stealth pack for someone that actually pedals and uses low level assist. But tagging mileage to a pack, has to many variables from 8 to 25.
 
tomjasz said:
Mileage questions are really kind of silly. My 110LB wife who scarcely uses assist, 25 miles.
My fat ass full throttle everywhere, 8-10.

It'd be the perfect stealth pack for someone that actually pedals and uses low level assist. But tagging mileage to a pack, has to many variables from 8 to 25.
:mrgreen: I'm getting 10-12 miles with a 11.5ah at 80% if I'm using a lot of throttle, which suggests a 6ah might give you 5-6 unless there are very few stops or hills on your ride.
 
Alan B said:
I exhausted my 20AH 52V pack in 26 miles one day with pedal to the metal most of the way, and 1800 feet of climbing.

Scaling this to 6AH would produce 7.8 miles. Very close to the previous estimate of 8.

My 11.5AH 52V at 80% charge did 12 miles of decent hills tonight (probably 1000 feet total) before dying. It was all bike power as I did not break a sweat. However there were few stop signs and no traffic lights on this route. Stop & starts take a surprising amount of power.
 
Woodytx said:
tomjasz said:
Mileage questions are really kind of silly. My 110LB wife who scarcely uses assist, 25 miles.
My fat ass full throttle everywhere, 8-10.

It'd be the perfect stealth pack for someone that actually pedals and uses low level assist. But tagging mileage to a pack, has to many variables from 8 to 25.
:mrgreen: I'm getting 10-12 miles with a 11.5ah at 80% if I'm using a lot of throttle, which suggests a 6ah might give you 5-6 unless there are very few stops or hills on your ride.
Egads, I get twice that out of an 11.5 wow! Do you pedal at all? I'm sure I'll see 10+
 
It is so useless to talk about range when pedaling is involved. You can get ANY range by pedaling. As soon as you add significant pedaling energy then the distance you reach is no longer a meaningful battery range. That is exactly where we get the 99 mile ebike range on a tiny pack. Meaningless. Don't bother bringing that data to the discussion, it just misleads.

Range is incredibly dependent on speed and climbing. Those must also be part of the comparison. Downhill with a tailwind range is meaningless.
 
Alan B said:
It is so useless to talk about range when pedaling is involved. You can get ANY range by pedaling. As soon as you add significant pedaling energy then the distance you reach is no longer a meaningful battery range. That is exactly where we get the 99 mile ebike range on a tiny pack. Meaningless. Don't bother bringing that data to the discussion, it just misleads.

Range is incredibly dependent on speed and climbing. Those must also be part of the comparison. Downhill with a tailwind range is meaningless.

So true; but even on motor alone, terrain and wind make a huge difference as well.

G.
 
Alan B said:
Shifting with the BBSHD is not difficult.

If you stop pedaling, or pedal backward the PAS drops out and the motor cuts power and begins to spin down. There is plenty of momentum in the motor to shift at this time.

You can always depress the throttle slightly. This causes the throttle to take over and run the motor at low speed, making it easy to shift. You can keep pedaling if you want. Unless you were stopped or going very slowly the motor will not be going fast enough to apply torque to the gears.

It may seem a little strange that pressing the throttle causes the motor to slow down when you are in PAS, but this is the way their controls work. The throttle disables the PAS and a low throttle setting generates either low speed or low torque depending on how you have the controller set. In either case shifting works nicely.

When you release the throttle the PAS takes over again. It is just a manual override.

Am I the only one who just bangs through the gears? I've been doing this for 1,000s of miles. At full throttle, all you have to do is wait for the motor to start spinning out and the amps to slightly dip in the current gear you are in, and then just click into the next gear, usually a smooth shift, maybe a little jerk but the bike can handle it. This gets me near maximum acceleration. I'm just running an sramX4 derailleur, HG41 34-11 cassette, and KMC EPT 8S for Ebike Chain.
m
 
gman1971 said:
Alan B said:
It is so useless to talk about range when pedaling is involved. You can get ANY range by pedaling. As soon as you add significant pedaling energy then the distance you reach is no longer a meaningful battery range. That is exactly where we get the 99 mile ebike range on a tiny pack. Meaningless. Don't bother bringing that data to the discussion, it just misleads.

Range is incredibly dependent on speed and climbing. Those must also be part of the comparison. Downhill with a tailwind range is meaningless.

So true; but even on motor alone, terrain and wind make a huge difference as well.

G.
 
Woodytx said:
gman1971 said:
Alan B said:
It is so useless to talk about range when pedaling is involved. You can get ANY range by pedaling. As soon as you add significant pedaling energy then the distance you reach is no longer a meaningful battery range. That is exactly where we get the 99 mile ebike range on a tiny pack. Meaningless. Don't bother bringing that data to the discussion, it just misleads.

Range is incredibly dependent on speed and climbing. Those must also be part of the comparison. Downhill with a tailwind range is meaningless.

So true; but even on motor alone, terrain and wind make a huge difference as well.

G.

Thanks Alan, that needed to be said. All these BS claims led me to buy too small a battery. ...

Sorry to hear that. We should label this effect "Range Reality". Folks want to show their best and they like their bikes and want to present them in a good light, but they don't think about the effects of this on new folk trying to make decisions based on this data.
 
Alan B said:
Sorry to hear that. We should label this effect "Range Reality". Folks want to show their best and they like their bikes and want to present them in a good light, but they don't think about the effects of this on new folk trying to make decisions based on this data.

Truer words... If you're a new BBSHD, 52v 11.5ah rider, expect this:

Top Range: 10-13 miles on rolling hills, just getting where you need to go fast, using throttle whenever necessary. If you prefer to go slow and pedal a lot, I'm sure 20 or even 25 is realistic but I haven't spent a single minute riding like that.

Top Speed: 30mph for throttle only, 35+ with hard pedaling, and it takes a few blocks to build up to that. Ignore all claims of 40+ mph. You will barely get 40 by lifting your rear wheel off the ground, so no bike will do that while battling wind and tire friction.


Last edited by Woodytx on Fri May 06, 2016 9:48 pm, edited 1 time in total. View post history.
 
quick question...

I have hydraulic brakes and the hall sensor is not going to play nice very easily. How important is it to have e brakes?
Is there anything else I can use the yellow controller wires for? lighting perhaps?

thanks
 
oneoone said:
quick question...

I have hydraulic brakes and the hall sensor is not going to play nice very easily. How important is it to have e brakes?
Is there anything else I can use the yellow controller wires for? lighting perhaps?

thanks
Use brake sensors. Add hydraulic brake sensors to the system. This connectors have no power to them and have no other functions.
 
The ebrake connectors are sometimes used for shifting sensors, to cut motor power during gear changes.

Ebrakes are useful to make the bike safe and control the motor when pedal motion triggers the motor. They are especially important when others ride the bike and are required on ebikes to be sold according to federal regulations.

There are about four choices for hydraulics - magnetic sensors, microswitches, hydraulic pressure sensors and swapping the brakes for purpose made electric bike hydraulic brakes. Tektro makes a few models that have very nice integral switches in the hydraulic control handle.
 
I'm new to e-biking but have 40+ years of riding bikes, mostly fast. In my opinion the whole braking topic is a bit overdone. Brakes are so good today it barely matters if you have e-brakes or even disk.
 
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