CristianMM
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2019
- Messages
- 7
i cut the cable because a tock a nasty fall, broke also my rear shifter. my friend who was in front of me braked hard, and i was unable to stop an hit him. i have better brakes and rotors now..
beartaco said:I ordered my G360 in a 700C wheel from cnebikes.com. Everything arrived exactly to my specs and in good shape.
bill1960 said:Question for wil, if you did it again, would you still use the G360 ?
bill1960 said:beartaco said:I ordered my G360 in a 700C wheel from cnebikes.com. Everything arrived exactly to my specs and in good shape.
Hi Beartaco
Did CNE have the G360 on their Alibaba site when you ordered it, or was it something they had to get in ?
I just sent them a message and they replied they couldn't get it.
wil said:bill1960 said:Question for wil, if you did it again, would you still use the G360 ?
Absolutely! I've been running well above the rated power with no issues so far. I'm concerned that I will strip the gears from torque eventually, but that is a concern with any plastic geared motor.
If looking at the Dillinger kit I would advise trying to get a torque sensor based system, instead of a speed sensor, as they feel much nicer, responsive and more natural.
Additionally, if your aren't trying to run well above legal power levels you may be fine with a smaller G310, they seemed happy up to about 1Kw from what I saw, and your bike will end up lighter too. Less wheelies though...
beartaco said:Hi Beartaco
Did CNE have the G360 on their Alibaba site when you ordered it, or was it something they had to get in ?
I just sent them a message and they replied they couldn't get it.
wil said:bill1960 said:Question for wil, if you did it again, would you still use the G360 ?
Absolutely! I've been running well above the rated power with no issues so far. I'm concerned that I will strip the gears from torque eventually, but that is a concern with any plastic geared motor.
If looking at the Dillinger kit I would advise trying to get a torque sensor based system, instead of a speed sensor, as they feel much nicer, responsive and more natural.
Additionally, if your aren't trying to run well above legal power levels you may be fine with a smaller G310, they seemed happy up to about 1Kw from what I saw, and your bike will end up lighter too. Less wheelies though...
qwerkus said:Been lurking to your test results of the g360. You say you push the poor hub way past its rated level. Have you checked the cable for heat ? It seems the tiny higo z910 can only take about 15A... Maybe replace it with julet z916 or even cusmade L1910 ?
Bequmi said:After much waiting and back and forth I finally got some sort of information from gomax about the windings of the g360... Kind of. They wouldn't tell me anything related to windings or Kv and only asked what speed I wanted to go at each voltage and wheel size, which I think looks right so far in the simulator when converted back to Kv and input that way.
The list they sent me is as follows. I realize I should probably have asked about 26" wheels as well just for the knowledge of others, but my application is either 24" or 29er.
24" wheel as follows
35km/h @ 36v is 304 rpm (8.44 Kv)
40km/h @ 36v is 348 rpm (9.66 Kv)
35km/h @ 48v is 304 rpm (6.33 Kv)
40km/h@ 48v is 348 rpm (7.25 Kv)
45km/h @ 48v is 390 rpm (8.125 Kv)
700c / 29er wheel as follows
35km/h @ 36v is 265 rpm (7.36 Kv)
40km/h @ 36v is 303 rpm (8.41 Kv)
35km/h @ 48v is 265 rpm (5.52 Kv)
40km/h@ 48v is 303 rpm (6.31 Kv)
45km/h @ 48v is 340 rpm (7.08 Kv)
The Kv is an estimation by me of the rpm and voltage.
Looking at all of those specs I'm guessing that they actually only have a few different windings, and that the t11 motor in the simulator is potentially the 340 rpm version (@36v) that we were guessing it was.
wil said:qwerkus said:Been lurking to your test results of the g360. You say you push the poor hub way past its rated level. Have you checked the cable for heat ? It seems the tiny higo z910 can only take about 15A... Maybe replace it with julet z916 or even cusmade L1910 ?
I haven't had any issues with it so far, although perhaps I can increase efficiency with a better connector. The copper pins don't look scorched, the tape that was holding it to the bike isn't distorted from heat and it didn't feel hot after a run (it's under a few layers of thick tape though)
I would be worried about fitting anything with thicker cabling down the shaft, + the existing cable is very well potted.
wil said:I haven't had any issues with it so far, although perhaps I can increase efficiency with a better connector.