hi all from Australia, sorry for ignorance but I have done some reading and can't seem to work out what the story is with rear freewheel (sprocket). I have no desire to run gearing so was wondering is it possible to remove the gearing cluster and fit a single freewheel? Wouldn't doing so limit the need for dishing the wheel?
This is my plan so far, if anyone cares to critique it and/or make suggestions I would be very much obliged:
- 10Ah 48V ping Lifepo4 pack mounted in frame on a road bike with 700c wheels, rim brakes (i.e. no discs). (FROM PING CHINA)
- Bafang QSWXH rear wheel hub motor (3kg) OR Cute 07C OR Cute 100SX (from what I can gather these all fit in 135mm dropouts, definitely a limiting factor with the cute motors...) (BMS BATTERY CHINA...they seem the cheapest..is this for a reason?)
- Cycle analyst limiting current to 10A (1C for 10Ah)
- Sensored/Sensorless...no idea, depend on suitability with motors (Not sure where to purchase controller, need to choose motor first)
- I will be happy with anything more than 30km range on relatively flat ground pedalling a majority of the time.
As you can probably tell my light weight e-bike will be built on a budget and suited to city commuting and is not built for high power or speed (above-mentioned motors all rated ~200-300W), all I want is a little assistance on hills. (My inspiration is the swiss? swedish? sorry guy i cant remember on this forum who turned out a very clean cannondale badboy with beautiful fibreglass frame mounted battery box..if you haven't seen it check it out) I just have a couple of questions that are stopping me from getting out the cheque book:
-I figure I'll be making roughly peak 500W with no load at 48V and 10A. Will all these motors tolerate the increased voltage as well as each other?
-Am I stuck with running a 6 pr 7 speed freewheel? Im assuming the gears cant be removed and the motor shifted along the axle to allow less dishing?
-Should I run sensored or sensorless? I understand the basic pros and cons of both, and having no experience it appears running hall sensors is just easier as more controllers are compatible. So of course I want to do sensorless...because its more difficult..but I really dont care either way, limiting complexity (breakdowns) is my goal. I just need specific info relating to the motors Im looking at.
- is it possible to limit the output current of the controller? Obviously it is...but is it difficult? Can you rely on the electronic current limiting function of the cycle analyst not to fail and ruin my system?
- Can anyone suggest alternative motors/equipment that may suit my needs.
Sorry for the questions but I have never seen a hub motor in the flesh (or steel) so its difficult to know exactly if and how they can be modified. Gathering all the information required is certainly tedious after a while especially since its scattered all over the internet. Whenever I start researching ebikes I always end up with about 20 different tabs open in my browser, all containing different little bits of info or specs. but I enjoy seeing other peoples creations. I would very much appreciate any help you can provide. cheers
This is my plan so far, if anyone cares to critique it and/or make suggestions I would be very much obliged:
- 10Ah 48V ping Lifepo4 pack mounted in frame on a road bike with 700c wheels, rim brakes (i.e. no discs). (FROM PING CHINA)
- Bafang QSWXH rear wheel hub motor (3kg) OR Cute 07C OR Cute 100SX (from what I can gather these all fit in 135mm dropouts, definitely a limiting factor with the cute motors...) (BMS BATTERY CHINA...they seem the cheapest..is this for a reason?)
- Cycle analyst limiting current to 10A (1C for 10Ah)
- Sensored/Sensorless...no idea, depend on suitability with motors (Not sure where to purchase controller, need to choose motor first)
- I will be happy with anything more than 30km range on relatively flat ground pedalling a majority of the time.
As you can probably tell my light weight e-bike will be built on a budget and suited to city commuting and is not built for high power or speed (above-mentioned motors all rated ~200-300W), all I want is a little assistance on hills. (My inspiration is the swiss? swedish? sorry guy i cant remember on this forum who turned out a very clean cannondale badboy with beautiful fibreglass frame mounted battery box..if you haven't seen it check it out) I just have a couple of questions that are stopping me from getting out the cheque book:
-I figure I'll be making roughly peak 500W with no load at 48V and 10A. Will all these motors tolerate the increased voltage as well as each other?
-Am I stuck with running a 6 pr 7 speed freewheel? Im assuming the gears cant be removed and the motor shifted along the axle to allow less dishing?
-Should I run sensored or sensorless? I understand the basic pros and cons of both, and having no experience it appears running hall sensors is just easier as more controllers are compatible. So of course I want to do sensorless...because its more difficult..but I really dont care either way, limiting complexity (breakdowns) is my goal. I just need specific info relating to the motors Im looking at.
- is it possible to limit the output current of the controller? Obviously it is...but is it difficult? Can you rely on the electronic current limiting function of the cycle analyst not to fail and ruin my system?
- Can anyone suggest alternative motors/equipment that may suit my needs.
Sorry for the questions but I have never seen a hub motor in the flesh (or steel) so its difficult to know exactly if and how they can be modified. Gathering all the information required is certainly tedious after a while especially since its scattered all over the internet. Whenever I start researching ebikes I always end up with about 20 different tabs open in my browser, all containing different little bits of info or specs. but I enjoy seeing other peoples creations. I would very much appreciate any help you can provide. cheers