BBS02 build advice

luterra

10 mW
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
24
Location
Corvallis, OR
Turns out LEED is backordered indefinitely on their conversion kits, which I took as a sign that I should build my own. I need both high torque and high speed, which favors bottom-bracket drive (I was previously thinking of doing two different RPM hub motors, but this is much simpler).

My current thoughts are...

Motor: Bafang BBS02, 500W, 48V, will probably order from EM3EV as Lectric Cycles (only US dealer I can find) has a $250+ markup.

Battery: 48V, 12-20 Ah to avoid frequent discharge. Having a tough time deciding chemistry/sourcing. BMS Battery has the best deals but expensive, slow shipping and per reviews very poor customer service. EM3EV does custom Li-ion builds but slow service/shipping. Not sure I want to buy the most expensive, most-easily-damaged part of the system from overseas, so am leaning toward Electric Rider in TX despite somewhat higher cost. Chemistry sounds like LiFePO4 is the best bet for long cycle life and safety. A bit heavier but that I can deal with. Any recommendations? Good or bad recent experiences with BMS or EM3EV?

Thanks!

Mark
 
luterra said:
Motor: Bafang BBS02, 500W, 48V, will probably order from EM3EV as Lectric Cycles (only US dealer I can find) has a $250+ markup.
Battery: 48V, 12-20 Ah to avoid frequent discharge. Having a tough time deciding chemistry/sourcing. BMS Battery has the best deals but expensive, slow shipping and per reviews very poor customer service. EM3EV does custom Li-ion builds but slow service/shipping. Not sure I want to buy the most expensive, most-easily-damaged part of the system from overseas, so am leaning toward Electric Rider in TX despite somewhat higher cost. Chemistry sounds like LiFePO4 is the best bet for long cycle life and safety. A bit heavier but that I can deal with. Any recommendations? Good or bad recent experiences with BMS or EM3EV?

Thanks!

Mark

I can find no reference at em3ev having 'slow shipping/service' here on ES. I don't think you need be concerned on that issue. I would be guided by references to quality control and advisory support. I would just talk to each vendor about your needs and evaluate the advice given. I can't speak for your prospective US suppliers but Paul at em3ev is excellent in this regard.
I have always found Paul's shipping costs to be on par or cheaper than other suppliers in China. If I was looking at an alternative Chinese supplier, in my experience GBK are ok. But you'll be buying stuff 'off the shelf' and not much of a service per se!
Everyone's needs and situation are different. I'm not in the USA and em3ev and GBK have been the people I've dealt with of necessity. I give em3ev 100% thus far. GBK get about 90%, only because I don't think they are as thorough in checking their product - I got a thumb throttle that was missing it's inner clamp! But they have offered a replacement.

My 2 cents...
Savvas
 
Disappointingly, I am up to week 4 waiting for my Battery to arrive from em3ev. Good communication on the status and excuse for taking so long but a little frustrating all the same. Make is hard when you are buying to resell and have convinced your client to pay a bit more for a better than average product and service. Luckily I have an understanding client.
 
Kepler said:
Disappointingly, I am up to week 4 waiting for my Battery to arrive from em3ev. Good communication on the status and excuse for taking so long but a little frustrating all the same. Make is hard when you are buying to resell and have convinced your client to pay a bit more for a better than average product and service. Luckily I have an understanding client.

Hi Kepler,

OK - I was just going by my own past experience (small items order) and a search for em3ev+shipping in the archive. Did Paul indicate that he'd need to 'build' your battery? I've just ordered one from him and I think he has referred to building it in our correspondence. I'm in no hurry but I can see your p.o.v.

Savvas.
 
Well, just sent in my order to BMS Battery. Will let you know if I regret it in a few weeks...

In the end, I wanted LiFePO4 for the extended cycle life, and EM3EV doesn't carry LiFePO4. Went with a big 20Ah battery for range. I also wanted an LCD that shows average speed and power consumption in watts. The C961 offered by EM3EV and others lacks this, but BMS Battery offers an upgrade to the C963 with more features for $25. With the C961it would be $120 for the Cycle Analyst if I want those features. And I wanted to order the whole system from one place if possible. So BMS it was.
 
xpc said:
but BMS Battery offers an upgrade to the C963 with more features for $25
Hi Luterra
What are the upgrades that BMS do to the display for $25.00? Or do mean that they are charging you an extra $25 to replace C961 to a C963 display

Yes, extra $25 to get C963 instead of C961. Starting to second-guess that decision given that the C961 is currently user-programmable thanks to ES members but the C963 is not at this point. That may change though...
 
Are you sure you can't program the drive if you get a C963 display? It seems that that the C961 and C963 displays are interchangeable with the drive and seeing you are programming the controller, I would seem logical you can still program the controller regardless of display. Not that i have tried this but it makes sense to me.
 
luterra said:
xpc said:
but BMS Battery offers an upgrade to the C963 with more features for $25
Hi Luterra
What are the upgrades that BMS do to the display for $25.00? Or do mean that they are charging you an extra $25 to replace C961 to a C963 display

Yes, extra $25 to get C963 instead of C961. Starting to second-guess that decision given that the C961 is currently user-programmable thanks to ES members but the C963 is not at this point. That may change though...

You don't program the display, you program the controller. In fact, the display is disconnected when programming the controller.
 
But programming the controller AND using the C963 is not as straight forward as with the C961. Hence the missing possibility of using the 9 levels with the C963. As of now it seams that the C963 is using Level 0,1,5 and 9 for its four level of throttle/PAS. When I get full insight I will make a summary in the Programming thread.

But it is possibly to program the controller and use the C963 display.

/Philip

EDIT: It's level 0, 3, 5 and 9
 
28 hours later, no response from my China source. Part shipped with tracking from Lectric. You get what you pay for. I was thrilled to have found A safe China source. 13.8Ah battery shipped for the cost of a 11Ah battery from LC. A great safe and responsive source. But the delays suck. This is my primary transportation. If I were to finally build a hub driven ride I'd give Paul a hard look but he's in China. Why pay $250 to FedEx, $45 to Paypal fees, and bank charges on currency exchanges when you can support another USA business? I guarantee the USA business isn't getting the same deal. Waiting two days for a response and who knows how long for the replacement parts, well, frankly, sucks. So save 20% or get up and running in the time it takes to get a response. Hells bells, read what dumbass is going through. I'd bet he'd find $250 bucks to make the purchase with support if he knew how his "deal" would pan out. Buy from Yescomusa (sp?) or BMS or whomever, but realize that folks like ebikekit, longislandbicycle, ebike.ca, are real supporters of the industry and provide more than discounts. Real people making living wages in first world countries. Pay now or pay later. IME.
You expect better than minimum wage, why shouldn't your reseller?
Rant over
 
Yeah you can tout about minimum wages and all that, but there is a huge difference between spending 700 and waiting 2 -6 weeks on a battery with charger vs spending just over 1300 buying in the usa. And of that list you gave, Im pretty sure ebikekit just buys batteries from china and marks them way up for US customer. Kinda like they do with their hub motors and controllers. Ebikes.ca (based out of canada btw) does. (Do they even carry the A123 packs anymore?) And Longisland didnt have a working online store from me to check their batteries but they appear to just be a bicycle shop. These companies dont build battery packs. Its all coming from china one way or another. Weather it be in the motor, controller, small parts, most of its china made.

Remember, America doesn't Manufacture shit anymore. We allowed a president to sign us up for free trade and now everything is made overseas. or in Mexico.
 
m4s73r said:
Yeah you can tout about minimum wages and all that, but there is a huge difference between spending 700 and waiting 2 -6 weeks on a battery with charger vs spending just over 1300 buying in the usa.
But aren't we discussing BBS02 build advise? I advise taking a harder look at the real cost and prices. If you can afford buying USA it may pay off and just maybe saving money buying from China sources, in some cases, is a false economy. For my motor kit I think it was. The disparity on my BBS01 kits was the difference between $655 and $607. The throttle died on my China kit after 22 miles. The USA supplier replacement, will be here Friday. It'll be another 24 hours before China acknowledges I need the throttle shipped immediately. After which I can expect at least another week to see it in my mail box. 3 days to a fix as apposed to 10-14 days is worth $48 to me.

m4s73r said:
And of that list you gave, Im pretty sure ebikekit just buys batteries from china and marks them way up for US customer. Kinda like they do with their hub motors and controllers.

For the uninitiated they might be a great idea. Plug and play rather than plug and pray. I too found them very over priced, but they have their place. Certainly for someone as versed as yourself this is a no brainer, but starting out, and with sufficient resources, they may be a darn good way to go. I wanted to buy new brake levers from them but they are set up with mini plugs and $40 each. The same lever was $29 a pair shipped from Long Island's rather nice online parts site.

m4s73r said:
Ebikes.ca (based out of canada btw) does. (Do they even carry the A123 packs anymore?)
.ca, BTW is Canadian domain. Instantly recognizable.
I haven't learned what that battery is, and will wait until I've learned enough to take on configuring my own packs. Which from where I'm sitting today will likely never interest me. Not if Ping or EM3ev are still in business. The pitfalls there for the uninitiated just might make the prefabbed packs from a supporting dealer a sensible choice for a nOOb. Now don't get me wrong, were I not sufficiently funded and a youngster I'd have jumped right in. However there a a fair number of us out here that are funded and are looking for the best bang for our dollars. 50 years of major purchases has taught some basic lessons in real costs of goods. Not just the upfront cost. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another battery from EM3ev for the down tube pack. I found Lectrics price oppressive on anything over 11Ah. But since I was buying a kit from LaGrand I decided that 11Ah was all I really needed. I choose to walk my talk. I was able to do so having sold my Vespa GTS250 and accessories for more than I expected. I used my windfall to support a USA dealer. He didn't have stock when I made my China buy. I flipped back and forth between sites a dozen time before I pulled the pin

m4s73r said:
And Longisland didnt have a working online store from me to check their batteries but they appear to just be a bicycle shop. These companies dont build battery packs. Its all coming from china one way or another. Weather it be in the motor, controller, small parts, most of its china made.
They do have a working site, and you are correct. The batteries are AllCell and expensive. I'd like to put my money where my mouth is with AllCell but as you point out they are really pricey. But Long Island Electric Bikes are very competitively priced on many items. Buying accessories or spare parts from China is goofy expensive unless you are bundling with a kit. In the case of GBK they have an excessively priced add on profit scheme for parts orders. See my post

m4s73r said:
Remember, America doesn't Manufacture shit anymore. We allowed a president to sign us up for free trade and now everything is made overseas. or in Mexico.

You're painting with a huge brush there. I wish it were that simple. But recent reports of business startups and restarts indicate that USA manufacturing has had a pretty good few years. When investors don't bleed off excessive profits things CAN and ARE manufactured in the US. That being said the world economy is changing. I have no problems buying some Chinese produced goods. The problem I have is with the American companies that go over to China, not because they were forced to but rather they marched to the drums of already fat investors.

Bottom line. China isn't always the best deal. No one will look out for the USA if it's citizens don't. We're on the same page, just slightly different outlooks.
 
tomjasz said:
But aren't we discussing BBS02 build advise? I advise taking a harder look at the real cost and prices. If you can afford buying USA it may pay off and just maybe saving money buying from China sources, in some cases, is a false economy. For my motor kit I think it was. The disparity on my BBS01 kits was the difference between $655 and $607. The throttle died on my China kit after 22 miles. The USA supplier replacement, will be here Friday. It'll be another 24 hours before China acknowledges I need the throttle shipped immediately. After which I can expect at least another week to see it in my mail box. 3 days to a fix as apposed to 10-14 days is worth $48 to me.

I agree on parts. I tend to buy as local as possible for parts and things. As for taking a look at the cost/price I am a mechanic that used to build drag cars. Live by the credo "its not if it breaks its when and what." Thats why hubs were always so good. A hub motor was around 250 300 bucks. Controllers are 100-200. As for batteries, i just think you will feel it less if you replacement cost is in the 500 range rather then 1200 range. Theyre batteries. Its not if they go bad it when.

tomjasz said:
m4s73r said:
And Longisland didnt have a working online store from me to check their batteries but they appear to just be a bicycle shop.

I went to the wrong site. I did find it. Just looked at batteries.

tomjasz said:
You're painting with a huge brush there. I wish it were that simple. But recent reports of business startups and restarts indicate that USA manufacturing has had a pretty good few years. When investors don't bleed off excessive profits things CAN and ARE manufactured in the US. That being said the world economy is changing. I have no problems buying some Chinese produced goods. The problem I have is with the American companies that go over to China, not because they were forced to but rather they marched to the drums of already fat investors.

Bottom line. China isn't always the best deal. No one will look out for the USA if it's citizens don't. We're on the same page, just slightly different outlooks.


I have the same issue. Especially since I was layed off due to outsourcing. And yes there are startups and restarts making some motion. But thats for another day. lol.
But to get back on topic, sounds like you pulled everything you needed. Allcells have the advantage of being much lighter then lifop4. but with lower current draws (20 amps cont I think) Be sure to update us on how it fares for you. Id like to know what kind of distance you get out of that 11ah batt. http://www.electricscooterparts.com/ is a good source for parts.
 
m4s73r said:
But to get back on topic, sounds like you pulled everything you needed. Allcells have the advantage of being much lighter then lifop4. but with lower current draws (20 amps cont I think) Be sure to update us on how it fares for you. Id like to know what kind of distance you get out of that 11ah batt. http://www.electricscooterparts.com/ is a good source for parts.
I will certainly update. AllCells look like a great product but a months pension check for a battery is hard to swallow. :wink: I ran 12 miles right out of the box under full power, with the 11Ah, it was jumping between two and 3 bars. I threw it on the charger and popped the freshly charged 13.8Ah in for the next 14 and it still seems to have 4 bars. Is it
OK to run it flat?
Isn't that hard on a battery?
BTW I weigh 200lbs and can't pedal much at all, and all the riding is on flat ground. This motor is so quiet and smooth, I'm thrilled. Thanks for a great discussion!

Next time I refer to a vendor I'll be certain to post the URL.
 
m4s73r said:
The Controller and or BMS wont let you run it flat if the low voltage cut off is good
Great! Thanks for the link too!
 
Packages arrived from BMS Battery yesterday, UPS from China via Hong Kong, Taiwan, Anchorage AK, Louisville TN, and finally Portland OR to Corvallis. The battery was labeled as 3.2 V 10 Ah on the packaging, so it seems that they're still having to get around some Chinese restriction on shipping high-power lithium batteries. Packaging on the battery was not great, but there was no damage. UPS hit me up for $20.96 in customs charges upon arrival. Overall +1 to BMS for delivering as promised with all of the necessary parts.

I put everything together today, went smoothly though I did have to find a lower-profile cable guide for the rear derailleur cable around the bottom bracket, and I didn't have the right tools to tighten the non-drive-side nuts so stopped by my friend's bike shop.

Broke it in with my daily 11-mile ride, into a 20 mph headwind. Maintained 19-22 mph on PAS 3, pulling 250-300 watts. Punched the throttle on hills, could actually go up hills at 25 mph but power draw was 850-900 watts and the throttle seems to be on-off with no middle ground. Cut my time by 1/3 to 1/2, and the motor was only mildly warm after the climb at the end. Didn't put a dent in the charge on the 20-Ah battery; hefting it I think I may have done a bit of overkill there, but it will be nice for long rides and will allow me to leave the charger in one place.

One tip: The C963 is kilometers-only, but if you have a 26-inch wheel and set the wheel size on the display to 16 inches, the displayed speed (in "mph") will be accurate to within about 5% (I had another cycle computer alongside). This also sets the assist speed limit to 40 mph instead of 40 kmh.

After connecting my 10-gauge copper wire extensions to the wimpy 14-gauge aluminum wire that comes with the motor and reading other tales here of blown FETs and overheated motors, I am hesitant to run at the full 18 amps for any length of time. Full power is nice for acceleration or short hills, but I really want to be able to run at 500 watts (10A, i.e. 60% power) continuously instead of the 250-300 W that is delivered in PAS 3 (highest available in C963). That means I need to be able to program the controller.

I've read through the programming thread and seen some folks' solutions, but I would appreciate a step-by-step guide (i.e. buy this, do this) if someone who has successfully programmed is willing to post it here.

Thanks all - I'm happy with my e-bike so far, and glad that I chose a mid-drive instead of a hub motor.

Mark
 
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