best deals on ebay or whereever

W

WALLEY

100 mW
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
36
Hello again Im looking into some hub motors i've seen on ebay so my question is who has the best deals on ebay and hows everyones experiences on ebay Ive found with batteries with out or should I look locally I live in Sacramento CA. or is there better deals, just looking for some :oops: advice :shock: oh ya my budget is about 500 bucks

aslo I like speed :twisted: keeping that in mind
 
but I just saw this greyborg hubzilla OMG I want it BAD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBwe1BKzoGY
 
Well, buy two and send one to me. I can't recomend your first build be a greyborg. It's a different thing, bolting on a hubmotor to a bike, vs building a homemade motorcycle.

One of the better deals out there nowdays for a low cost kit in the USA is Yes Com USA.

Batteries are another story. $500 is the very low end of the budget just for the battery. Sla's can get you going, but only for a short distance at speed.

Generally I recomend new guys who don't want more than 30 mph to get a 48v 15 ah pingbattery, or a 36v 20 ah pingbattery. But if you don't need but 10 miles or so of range, then Emissions Free makes a lot of sense. A bit of a wait, especially for this time of year when you want to ride NOW. but you get a good deal on solid motors and the best of batteries.
 
I'll second yescomusa.com, but they're almost completely out of kits at this time and expect restock in about 6 weeks. When in stock, you can buy their 48v 1000W kit for under $280 on ebay. Living in CA, ship time would be one to two days. Battery options are many. I use turnigy rc lipo 4s hard case packs from hobbyking.com. 6 of them will cost under $150 shipped from USA warehouse and work really well with the 48V controller. That would leave enough for a cheap charger setup if you need a charger. Top speed with this setup would be about 28 mph. For $500, that's about all you can do. If you want faster, it'll cost you more. I've got about $600 for their 48V 1000W kit and a 72V controller running 12 4s lipos for 100V at 24s2p and can top out over 40mph although I ride under 20 99% of the time. That $600 does not include charger. You can spend $30 to unlimited for a charger setup depending on what you want.
 
thx dogman Im looking into that i need to sell a few things 1st

anybody seen this vid how did they get this much power I assume its a mega powerful motor just undered powered cause this thing is fast with just 650 watts just my opinion

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJsMDsT8siU&feature=related

thx wesnewell ya I talk speed Im not gonna use it all the time sacto has major traffic lights I just want the power just to have like a condom better to have it an not need it then to need it an not have it :D
 
And you know this bike is dangerous right? That's not what 650watts looks like, 650w is less than 1 hp. That bike is at least 6500w if not double that!

But here is what some cheap thrills look like, on a budget of less than $1500. Cheap hubmotor, 72v 40 amp controller, 40 mph club. About 3000w. Will melt in a bout 10 miles, but generally a 72v 10 ah battery runs dead before the motor melts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnMBlcxVCeE&feature=plcp
 
It's not 650 Watts - It's 650 Amps, and the comments are full of people asking how many volts. Assuming low end, 48V system, they're looking at 31kw - A little more than a 250cc sports bike. If it's 100V, then we're talking about 61kw - approaching 500cc bike capacity, but of course with probably 1/4 of the weight.

BTW, avoid any battery on eBay like the plague. I have NEVER bought a battery on eBay anywhere close to the rated capacity.
 
I was more conservative about guessing the wattage of Lukes Hill climber. Not sure what volts, or what amps out of the 650 offered it the motor would actually pull in that gear ratio.

One things clear, neither Walley nor I have the budget Luke has. :( But lots of good fun is there for the picking if you can afford a cheap china hub, a 72v 40 amp controller and some RC lipo. Bear in mind though, you can go through $200 in batteries fast with lipo. Those noob mistakes can get ya. Ooos, what was that big spark? There went $50. Oops, rode a mile too far. There went $100. Once you settle down some, $300 in RC lipo packs can last a few years.
 
Dogman wrote-"Bear in mind though, you can go through $200 in batteries fast with lipo. Those noob mistakes can get ya. Ooos, what was that big spark? There went $50. Oops, rode a mile too far. There went $100. Once you settle down some, $300 in RC lipo packs can last a few years."

Yup, that sums up my first month with Lipo exactly.
Sometimes I think Dogman is clarivoyant :roll:
 
It doesn't sum up mine. I've never lost a single cell in more than a year using rc lipo. And I've bulk charged it with an old SLA charger more than a few times. And I've shorted a couple of packs direct. All it did was blow the connectors off and burn the crap out of my finger once. I went months before doing that and then did it twice in the same day. Bad thing was I wasn't even drunk. But I've never overcharged or over discharged.
 
Well, good on ya Wes. It's possible, just for most of us it's not so likely that we are perfect. I'm old and absentminded now for sure.

I'm not clairvoiant, I just did that with my first RC lipos. I gave the first 4 packs a nice beating, misunderstanding and thinking discharging to 3v was fine. So I'd ride till the 3.5v alarm was beeping and then turn for home 4 blocks away. Got almost 50 cycles from those 4 packs. :roll: Now I stop at about 3.7v or more.

Then a couple KFF deals cost me the tabs on one cell of a few packs, so some 5s packs became 4s. Two packs were lost by having them unplug while riding with no LV warning on it. I thought I could ride without monitoring once I doubled the size of the pack. Next thing I know, I just rode 6 ah out of the remaining plugged in 5 ah pack. Now I tape up the parallel connectors.

At this point, I have about two years of Lipo use with no problems I caused. But the first six months shit happened.
 
dogman said:
Next thing I know, I just rode 6 ah out of the remaining plugged in 5 ah pack. Now I tape up the parallel connectors.
Click to expand...

This was what made me decide to permanently parallel my lipo packs and then make/break only series connections to run the bike or charge. That way if I don't do up a connector properly and it works loose, the circuit is broken and the bike will power down.

Like you say, these things take some care and thought to look after...
 
wesnewell said:
It doesn't sum up mine. I've never lost a single cell in more than a year using rc lipo. And I've bulk charged it with an old SLA charger more than a few times. And I've shorted a couple of packs direct. All it did was blow the connectors off and burn the crap out of my finger once. I went months before doing that and then did it twice in the same day. Bad thing was I wasn't even drunk. But I've never overcharged or over discharged.
Click to expand...

Spot on, i've never heard of people around here losing a lipo for any reason, overcharge, overdischarge, shorting. overcharge and discharge hasnt caused any problems and shorting will just vaporize anything in its path.
 
Looking at the conversion kits on eBay, the price difference between a 250w - 24v and 1000w - 48v is only $60. What are the reasons for buying a lower powered electric hub?
Weight of the motor?
Battery requirements?

Let's say the current battery budge is for 36v battery pack. Will I be sorry buying a 48v system and running it under powered? Can a 1000w system be run on lower power and stretched out like a 500w motor?

I am looking at building two low cost systems that are the opposite.
1. Commuter - can go 15 to 18mph for 20 miles round trip. Some moderate hills. What is the minimum that doesn't make peddaling seem better.

2. Trail bike - can boost up 2 miles of steep hills, then tuned off and not used. Think booster rocket. Lighter is better.

Thank you. Kevin
 
KevXR said:
Looking at the conversion kits on eBay, the price difference between a 250w - 24v and 1000w - 48v is only $60. What are the reasons for buying a lower powered electric hub?
Weight of the motor?
Battery requirements?

Let's say the current battery budge is for 36v battery pack. Will I be sorry buying a 48v system and running it under powered? Can a 1000w system be run on lower power and stretched out like a 500w motor?

I am looking at building two low cost systems that are the opposite.
1. Commuter - can go 15 to 18mph for 20 miles round trip. Some moderate hills. What is the minimum that doesn't make peddaling seem better.

2. Trail bike - can boost up 2 miles of steep hills, then tuned off and not used. Think booster rocket. Lighter is better.

Thank you. Kevin
Click to expand...

1. 9 hardcase 4s lipos for 44v 15ah, that should be $210 plus parallel board, parallel bullet harness and charger, 100v 45a controller (i can ship that to you for $100 with warranty), mini hub motor http://www.ebay.ca/itm/36v-350w-26-Rear-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Kit-E-Bike-Cycling-Conversion-Hub-/221072169321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3378ed9969

2. geared motor and a few lipos, and the 100v 45a controller
 
KevXR said:
Looking at the conversion kits on eBay, the price difference between a 250w - 24v and 1000w - 48v is only $60. What are the reasons for buying a lower powered electric hub?
Click to expand...
IMO, either ignorance, or to stay in compliance with ignorant laws.
Weight of the motor?
Battery requirements?
Click to expand...
A motor can be run at any voltage as long as the controller will handle it. Increased battery for more voltage will also produce a longer range if operated at same speed.
Let's say the current battery budge is for 36v battery pack. Will I be sorry buying a 48v system and running it under powered? Can a 1000w system be run on lower power and stretched out like a 500w motor?
Click to expand...
A 48V controller won't work with a 36V battery, because the default LVC of a 48V battery is ~42V. OTOH, a 36V controller will normally work with a 48V battery, but would allow you to over discharge the battery as its LVC will be set to 30.5V.
I am looking at building two low cost systems that are the opposite.
1. Commuter - can go 15 to 18mph for 20 miles round trip. Some moderate hills. What is the minimum that doesn't make peddaling seem better.
2. Trail bike - can boost up 2 miles of steep hills, then tuned off and not used. Think booster rocket. Lighter is better.
Click to expand...
1. Any kit with ~500wh of battery.
2. Geared hub With 3lb rc lipo pack.
 
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