DRUNK3NTIG3R said:
hi all i've built one ebike before it was a 1000w front hub. worked great but im a big lad and wanted a bit more get up and go so i got a 5000w setup off of ebay from a chap for 800 quid. just it did not come with instructions so just making sure i have this all set up before i attach the battery and things explode haha.
To answer some of the questions, we'd need more info. Do you have a link to the ebay page? It may ahve info useful to us to help you set this up.
To know what the motor wiring might be, we need to know what the motor is. Pictures of the whole motor may let us recognize it, and if not, any markings on it may help us. It's most likely that the duplicated connector, if it is at least 5 wires on each one, is for two sets of hall sensors, so that if one fails, you have the other as backup. The connectors are probably wired the same pattern, so the red wire that is 5v on one would be 5v in the same connector position on the other, the black that is ground, and so on.
Regarding the Andersons, they are called the SB series. There are several sizes. The size should be marked on the gray shell. They start at SB50 and go up from there. To install their contacts on your wiring you'll need a good crimper made for the contact/wire size. IF you've got the SB-120 size, those are big contacts, and they're pretty tough to crimp by hand unless it's at least a ratcheting crimper; a hydraulic one works better. When I looked for them for my project a couple years ago they were $40 for really cheap ones on Amazon; good ones from reputable places (where I knew I would get what I ordered, unlike ebay/amazon) were twice that. Your wires also have to be big enough to sufficiently fill the contact barrel, or you won't get a very good crimp or connection. (I don't recomment soldering them because it is difficult to get a good joint without wicking solder up into the wire, which tends to make the cable fragile at that area and can break from vibration over time).
If you don't have a good crimper for this, then I recommend leaving the bolt-lugs on the controller wires, and getting a cable that has those (same size as your controller's) on one end, and the SB-xx on the other that matches your battery. Then you can bolt that to your controller, and insulate these with heatshrink, etc, and just plug / unplug the battery with the SB-xx.
Usually there is a same-colored wire pair used for "self learn" or "auto identify" to let the controller automatically figure out the correct phase/hall wire sequence, regardless of the order you actually hook them up in (they don't usually just work color-to-color without this feature, and then they can be tedious to determine the right combination).
Throttle will usually be a red-green-black connector (somtimes red-white-black); PAS is usually red-yellow-black (or red-blue-black or red-yellow-blue). But there is no standard for wire colors, so if throttle and PAS don't appear to work, you may have the connectors swapped.
There are quite a few possible functions for various wires; some may have battery voltages on them, so I would not hook anything up to the controller (other than the display and battery) until you have verified the voltages on the wires are not higher than 5v. Otherwise you may damage parts (like the PAS sensor, or throttle, etc). It's not that likely, but you can't undo it once it's done.
Even if they appear to connect to other connectors you've got...they might be intended to.
Also note that wiring order may be different between controller and devices (throttle, PAS, etc) even though the connector is the same. Usually 5v is red and black is ground, so you can verify the voltage between those two is only 5v (or less) and then make sure they match the same color wires on the device to plug into them, with the leftover wire being likely the signal from / to the device.