Caleb's new build Nine Continent Delta WYE

[Paul.............D]

Coming along nice, dont forget to put rubber gromets in the frame to stop the cables chaffing.

Paul

 

[caleb7777]

Already got em, but there isn't much I can do about where the wires meet the inner frame piece. I think I will bypass it altogether and just make the exit hole above it

 

[Paul.............D]

I rushed putting my bike back together a year ago, i was going past the bus stop and some one shouted fire, i thought he was taken the mickey then bang 72 volts and toasted jeans burnt nuts burnt hand trying to pull the cables apart and one smug twat on a bus pissing himself laughing at me put my hand in my pocket and there was the two grommets. i will never forget again.

Paul

 

[caleb7777]

 

[caleb7777]

Throttle interrupt circuit is a success!

[youtube]2H65VIhsBds[/youtube]

 

[caleb7777]

I need to decide if i am going to cut the 5v+ to throttle for a throttle disengage or do a pull down method

More questions. I have almost finished my throttle interrupt circuit (it works) but I would like to have the throttle cut out slightly before the relays switch from delta/wye as this allow the phase lines to come to 'rest' so there is no load for sure. my question is how long from when throttle cut off will this take? if it is instant then great. I was planning on having about 10ms. Will this allow the controller to come to rest in time?

fechter made this comment:

caleb7777 wrote:If the +5v to throttle is interrupted, it will send a throttle output of 0 yes? or no?

Yes. Interrupting the 5v to the throttle will do about the same thing as pulling down on the throttle line, but with less chance of frying the throttle.

Which route is safer? (and fast, we are talking ms) I can easily cut the 5v+ to throttle because of where this circuit will be but I could also do the pull down method if I must

If I should how do I implement it?

Which method do i use???

 

[Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh]

the deviant one

 

[caleb7777]

sigh.... which is the deviant one?

 

[grandmasterE]

What Hal meant was that your fork is spun around. Loosen your stem , and turn your fork 180 degrees, then reset the headset preload and tighten the stem again (assuming threadless headset-can't tell from photos).

The dropouts (the slots that the wheel axel fits into) should be in front of the fork, not behind it as shown. Not only will the handling be all messed up like that, but you also run the risk of having clearance issues, including the wheel or fork arch hitting the bike frame under full compression (bad!!)


E

 

[caleb7777]

umm yeah

 

[caleb7777]

yes!
i got some more toys in the mail and did a little more work. All I really need to finish now is my new battery.

I got a new sun rhino lite rim and custom spokes from cycle9 in the states and go them the other day. I was planning on having the local bike shop spoke it and true the wheel but Ifigure I would start it to save myself some money in labor costs and i found it was not very difficult to do! I put the rim on myself and it appears to be very true. From behind the bike there was only 0.3 mm play side to side on the rim itself when i finished. I know not all spokes are evenly tensioned but all are tight right now so I will try it. I have never laced a wheel before. I wasn't able to dish it over to perfect center, but the v brakes are quite forgiving and all lines up nicely with a quick adjust.
If I find it needs to be trued by the shop I will do that but right now I figure I saved a lot!

Actually I found that the wheel does not point straight to the front of the bike. the dropout holes are off just slightly so that the wheel points out to the left of the front of the bike slightly. oh well it was a cheapo frame. it won't actually make a difference. Just looks funny if you realize it which no one not trying to true the wheel will.

I did spoke it will all heads on the drive side. it was easier i figured to dish it.

I got the wiring harness installed, my monster wiring harness , with a 19 pin plug and a 3pin power plug. The 3 pin (power) has heavier contacts in case I decide to have lights or whatever later out front.

This is what the wires will do!
View attachment Wiring pinout for serengeti.xls

All the wires come out in the box at the front and will give me control over everything, When I close the box up it should look pretty good. i am waiting on some sptt switches for the 2 holes.

 

[caleb7777]

Someone PM'd me a question so I will share:

hey bud

when i had the 9c originally I wanted to swap the rim out for the black rim that came with my frame so not knowing what i was doing i started tearing both rims down. Then I found out that my black rim would not fit the spokes lengths that were on my 9C originally. Yay.

So now I was up the creek. I figured it was as good an excuse to get a better rim and spokes as any. I learned that the stock rim was el cheapo, no eyelets etc.
I had no idea how to figure out the length for custom cut spokes since it will change depending on rim design, and i thought with all the dishing they would be different length from side to side on the rim

I had read that the cycle9 company was doing rims for 9C and everyone said it was great. i am in canada and couldn't have them relace it for me but I figured that they would know the length needed for this motor and had everything i needed that was being recommended here.

I just phoned 'em and said hi. Told them i wanted one of the rhino lite rims in black and spokes for a 9C motor that was on a 7 speed so would be dished over considerably, best ones they had. I thought that the spokes on one side would need to be shorter than the others if it was dished over this far. They agreed. They did the rest.

When i got the spokes there was a note saying that all the same size would work fine. The invoice said 169mm spokes were cut.

So Nine Continent 9C and sun rhino lite rim = 169mm both sides

now that i have it on the bike some of the spokes come out of the screw collar into the rim a little and i haven't gone super tight yet so you could go 168mm safely and the ends would remain sunk. Probably better.

The spokes they recommended were the Wheelsmith DH13 Spokes w/ nipples that they carry so i got those.

I haven't used my wheel yet as i am still waiting to finish my bike so I don't know if i will be breaking spokes or not, but I am sure this is better than the stock stuff.
The people at cycle9 were great. But all you need is to go into the online store and order the rim and spokes cut to 169 or 168

When I get it going i will speak more on if the rim works with my poor man's lacing. Bike upside down, turned crank, held screwdriver against frame toward rim and watched to see where it rubbed, and then adjusted. Repeat until straight. Seemed to work for me. :wink:

 

[caleb7777]

I am at the point where I am realizing my mind's eye saw this build coming out more stealth than it will be.

I present to you:

The Big Ass Plugs

So much for my dreams of minimal. oh well they will look good in other ways I expect......

 

[Doctorbass]

Nice work caleb7777!

These Amphenol style connector are great!.. I like the protected switch too!.. Just like a TURBO activation system!

Doc

 

[biohazardman]

I am at the point where I am realizing my mind's eye saw this build coming out more stealth than it will be.

I present to you:

The Big Ass Plugs

So much for my dreams of minimal. oh well they will look good in other ways I expect......

You can put the cables/plugs in some kind of small box a water bottle or even a bicycle bag of some sort to hide them and add to the stealth. Be creative lots of stuff out there.

 

[caleb7777]

Well I got the bike completed. But I can't use it because I fried the NEW replacement battery. But I will get into that later

I got to use my father's shop on the weekend while I visited and got the bike pretty much completed.

I built some heavy torque arms for it as you can see. I just welded a piece of bar onto the torque arms that came with the ampedbikes 9C motor and that went along the swingarm with angle iron and then created a "C" piece using two more pieces of straight bar. Came out well when I was finished. Lots of grinding and then I painted it. I made a basket out of a nice piece of metal my father had lying around and it came out perfect. Matches battery size almost perfectly end to end. I am very proud of the basket, it was tricky to form.

I wired up the motor, halls, and the delta relay after I got back home. And burned my hand pretty good when I went to install a new plug onto the battery lines and thought I would just cut the lines together so that they would be the same length. STUPID... Now my nice new wire cutters have a new hole.

Anyways got it setup and running and went out for a short ride, but I forgot to put something between the battery and the screw ends in the basket there. So I punctured the top cell and kicked myself for it well. Brand new battery.
ugh.
I wasn't too worried about it because i understood I would only need to replace the one cell in the worst case. The internal layers did not appear to be shorting either. The cell still operated, so i though of just filling it up with epoxy so that nothing shorted by movement, which may have worked but that night the little shit lit up and caught on fire at 6 am today. i threw it outside after hearing the fire alarm and just cut the the top cell off right away.

So now I need a new cell for sure, maybe even a few but I may have cut the lower one when i pulled out the top one.

So no more bike for me right now. unless....

OK so i removed the top cell. Now if I attach the main hot to the next cell in series I will have a 44-45 Volt battery which could be charged with charger putting out 55v? Is this right? or would it screw up the BMS if i left the one balancing line that went between cells 1 and 2 unhooked?

 

[Christobel931]

That looks real nice.. sorry about your battery, bummer!

Are you planning to cover the contacts on your relay? Looks like it could get shorted maybe?

Look forward to seeing that thing run.

 

[monster]

nice bike. esspecially like the custom rear rack. i want one! the relay will probably melt though, look at the wire size inside.

 

[caleb7777]

Auto CA Delta switch circuit complete: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10209

 

[mhz128]

Cool bike Caleb!

What is your top speed in the "fast" (Wye?) mode? What voltage?
Does the motor overheat while using this configuration?


Also, do you have a link for your battery supplier?

Thanks! Have a nice day!

 

[caleb7777]

http://www.bmsbattery.com/

 

[caleb7777]

Well winter is about over and I see concrete once again.

I built a CD tab welder over winter to fix my battery and bought the cells I needed. I got the battery put back together recently and built a steel box for the battery. Don't want to wreck it again...

The tab welder I built is nothing to be proud about... so no pics there.

 

[caleb7777]

First little ride was not too great. I get a little over 30km/h and I can't feel the delta change at all. I think something is limiting my max amp output because I have yet to blow the 20amp fuse on the battery. I expected that to go right away, but alas no.

I want to blow fuses!

also after I pushed it hard the controller stopped output for a few minutes and then came back after cooldown. Now I am trying to remember if I did put that temp sensor in the controller, and which damn switch turns it off?