CellLog 8S battery monitor and logger - any reviews?

fechter said:
You have to hold the enter button for more than 3 seconds to make the new value stick (I think).

I found that the factory calibration is extremely accurate so far.

Thanks Fechter,

But it don’t work for me.

At the end tf the last corrected value entered, If I press ENTER for 3 sec it return to the previous menu WITHOUT keeping the new corrected value!

Do I need to disconnect it and restart it to let the new value loaded?

Please can someone can post a tested method of recalibration step by step?

Doc
 
SpeedEBikes said:
But the internal alarm on the celllog is weak. You can hear it from maybe 15 feet away in a quiet room, but on a bike/vehicle at speed or in city traffic you may not hear it. And if you enclose the celllog for weather protection the problem is even worse.

But I found a very easy solution. For about $5 you can get a super loud piezo buzzer from Digikey, part # 102-1643-ND. This buzzer will operate on something like 3-30 volts ac or dc. Volume and current draw go up proportionately with voltage ..... All one has to do is wire the buzzer in series with the alarm output of the celllog (think of it as a switch) across the entire pack ..... You might also choose to use fewer cells if you find the alarm is too loud. I don't think wiring across a subset of cells is at all an issue for pack imbalance as the alarm only draws a few milliamps and shouldn't ever be on for too long. Any solution to pack balancing, even if rarely used should suffice to correct for this.

Sorry to dig out this more than a year old post. I'm looking at implementing this in some sort of dashboard on my bike.

I have zero knowledge of how to draw proper electronic diagrams so I came up with this little MS-Paint doodle. Can you have a look at it and tell me if the wiring is OK?

Also, at 4cm in diameter, the digikey buzzer you used is a bit large for my application. Do you see any problem with this slightly smaller alternative: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=95007878&uq=634302467831170656

celllog-1.jpg


[EDIT] Fixed the diagram based on speedebike's comment.
 
Looks OK to me.
I recall the alarm output is only good for 500ma, but those buzzers should take less than that.
 
fechter said:
Looks OK to me.
I recall the alarm output is only good for 500ma, but those buzzers should take less than that.

Thanks for the sanity check.

The buzzer used by SpeedEBike pulls only 8mAh @ 12 VDC. The smaller one I mentionned is only 5mAh @12VDC.
 
El Steak,

The cellog's most negative input pin is internally directly connected to the negative alarm ouput pin. By connecting the negative alarm output to the negative terminal of the battery you will fry something if you ever misalign the balance tap connector when attaching it to the celllog. I think it is better to just leave the negative alarm pin disconnected.
 
Hey guys, I dont think I have seen this mentioned anywhere. Is it ok to hookup a celllog between the battery and the BMS just taping into the lines like this?
batterycelllog.jpg

I know.. BEST drawing EVEAAHH!! I hate GIMP and wish I had photoshop on my work computer hahaha
 
El_Steak said:
SpeedEBikes said:
celllog-1.jpg


[EDIT] Fixed the diagram based on speedebike's comment.

If you are going to use the CEllLog for both low and high voltage alarm I would may want to install an on/off switch on the external alarm. It can be a real PITA if you over charge a little and have to wait for the cell to drop voltage while a 90db alarm is screaming at you. Been there and done that..........

Bob
 
Is it possible to build some sort of a very very basic cell-log, so basic that it in fact does no "logging" beyond a real-time display of voltages and their respective sags, using a large dot-matrix LCD display {4" by 6" or so} which has some sort of very very basic interface which you just plug the JST-XH balance-taps {running off your main battery and respective sub-packs}

It wouldn't even need to be fed by the pack-voltage, it could have its own 0-5v supply supplied from elsewhere.

Its just something I have a hankering for, a large, visually-appealing display of the sag-recovery of my packs, so I can keep an eye out for imbalances or weak groups. I like the vertical-bar display, it makes a very rapid, clear impression of how the groups are sagging and rebounding, and where they all stand relative to each other.

There obviously isn't much to the cell-log, the basic version is for sale for $13 or so.....I don't know anything about electronics or what is involved but could it be done?

Thanks.
 
I'm sure it can be but by whom and for how much? Personally, I prefer to not watch what my cells are doing. I prefer to enjoy my ride and let the cell log worry about watching the cells for me. Beside in the end there is to high a potential that just when you need to be watching them you will be distracted and not see a problem. But if the Cellog is doing it's job you'll hear it's alarm.

Bob
 
dumbass said:
I'm sure it can be but by whom and for how much? Personally, I prefer to not watch what my cells are doing. I prefer to enjoy my ride and let the cell log worry about watching the cells for me. Beside in the end there is to high a potential that just when you need to be watching them you will be distracted and not see a problem. But if the Cellog is doing it's job you'll hear it's alarm.

Bob

You'll see a problem if the visual is big enough and one bar is way down on the other bars.

I might start contacting guys who make and sell these electronic gizmos and see if they can come up with something.
 
Personally I think you'd be better off with the logging version, and simply download the log into your PC at the end of the ride/day, and check for lows. If you use a device like the CA+analogger that also logs your throttle/speed/voltage/current/etc. you can merge the two logs so that you can see exactly when these things happen.

Then you'd not be distracted on-road with watching the data, but still have it all. Plus you can analyze it even better at your leisure without having to depend on your memory, or having to keep an eye on the display *all the time* to watch for dipping cells.

But if you did want to have a dashboard display, I would recommend one that does not use numerics, but isntead uses either bargraph or color. or both.

To use color, simply have a bicolor LED, that has red and green in the same unit, for each cell or cell group. Two comparators per LED will trigger it, so that at "full" down to some middling value, the green LED remains lit but red is not. Below that value, green remains lit but red also lights, turning the LED yellow to warn you it's getting low. At the LVC point, or just above it, the green turns off but red remains lit.

So one comparator's trigger point is at the LVC, and one is at your chosen above-LVC warning level.


Then you simply have a row or group of LEDs that you can note the color of as you glance down, and it takes far less attention and far less time than numeric displays.

In many UI situations, such as dashboards and cockpits, where attention *MUST* be prioritized elsewhere, numerics are only for precision readouts such as setting specific values when attention may be safely diverted from other things, or non-priority readouts like odometers, that you don't usually look at while driving. All of the really important information is best conveyed graphically, often with moving needles or colored gauges of some type, sometimes with "bugs" at specific setpoints so you only have to see if the needle is above or at or below that setpoint, and not process the actual numerical info.

When it is necessary to use numbers on critical displays, they are usually very large, and centered within an analog gauge that repeats the same information in a faster-to-grasp way. At least, on the better UI designs.

Anything in a UI that takes your attention from time-critical decision making is wrong, unless that item is more important than the decision you might have to make--on the road, there's not really anything more important than paying attention to what's in front of you, and next in line is what's beside and behind you. After that is maybe speed, and then battery condition somewhere down the list from there.

If battery condition is more important than any of the above, then it needs an automatic cutoff rather than a manual monitor. Knowing what your batteries are doing is definitely not more important than seeing that car that is cutting you off with zero warning, or that pedestrian that just stepped off the sidewalk in front of you. ;)


If you are doing all this batteyr monitoring and testing away from any possible traffic or road conditions that could be hazardous, then fully-numeric displays of all the possible data would be neat to have, and useful...but on-road I wouldn't want it distracting me; at best the three-color cell display would make it to my "ultimate dashboard".
 
'wanted to bump with news I grabbed an S version from EPBuddy. Logging cells during the ride is proving to be quite useful qualifying pack health. I still have a couple non-logging M versions for quick static checks but viewing cell voltage under load paints a more useful picture about individual cell voltage sag.
 
Did anybody ever heard about possible wrong pinout on celllog8s?
I logged my 16S6P battery, I figured out cells 7 and 8 on group 2 go down to 2,6V (they're li-ion/LiCoO2) so I replaced them with others newer cells, then I performed another log.... which appears exactly as previous one! They don't reach 2,8 or 2,5, they reach exactly 2,6, exactly after the time of "previous" cells!
I double- and triple- and quadruple-checked my wirings, schematics and logs, all looks fine.
Maybe some settings in Logview change pin display order, or maybe there's a wrong wiring in the celllog itself, or whatelse??... :shock:

In LogView devices list I selected "Junsi CellLog8s".
 
My multimeter gives too different results w.r.t. cellog8s (>5%) to be able to make direct comparisons :-(
I should look at the celllog display while batteries are under load... but they're under the seat! I will have to prepare a very long connection cable to be able to monitor cells while riding. :-( Maybe I could recycle an old SCART cable...
 
jumpjack said:
My multimeter gives too different results w.r.t. cellog8s (>5%) to be able to make direct comparisons :-(
I should look at the celllog display while batteries are under load... but they're under the seat! I will have to prepare a very long connection cable to be able to monitor cells while riding. :-( Maybe I could recycle an old SCART cable...

On buy a cellLog with monitoring and check on your PC when you get home. Once you know what your cells normally are doing you really don't need to stare at them while riding. Bob
 
dumbass said:
jumpjack said:
My multimeter gives too different results w.r.t. cellog8s (>5%) to be able to make direct comparisons :-(
I should look at the celllog display while batteries are under load... but they're under the seat! I will have to prepare a very long connection cable to be able to monitor cells while riding. :-( Maybe I could recycle an old SCART cable...

On buy a cellLog with monitoring and check on your PC when you get home. Once you know what your cells normally are doing you really don't need to stare at them while riding. Bob

This.

Or, use old 120VAC heater elements, soldering irons, old space heaters, etc. as loads to test your battery pack without powering the bike.
 
dumbass said:
jumpjack said:
My multimeter gives too different results w.r.t. cellog8s (>5%) to be able to make direct comparisons :-(
I should look at the celllog display while batteries are under load... but they're under the seat! I will have to prepare a very long connection cable to be able to monitor cells while riding. :-( Maybe I could recycle an old SCART cable...

On buy a cellLog with monitoring and check on your PC when you get home. Once you know what your cells normally are doing you really don't need to stare at them while riding. Bob

What?!? :?:
 
I can't find the 8S on hobbyking anymore... did they stop selling the thing? I can find it at progressive RC... maybe 1 or 2 other places.
 
dequinox said:
I can't find the 8S on hobbyking anymore... did they stop selling the thing? I can find it at progressive RC... maybe 1 or 2 other places.

That would be a shame if it were discontinued. Although it's been pretty quiet since 2013 here's Junsi website - http://www.jun-si.com/Enindex.asp

Maybe drop them an inquiry?
 
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