Cheap ebike kit for paragliding retrieve

[ironbrewer]

I am looking for the least expensive reliable ebike kit for retrieving my car after paragliding.

I weigh about 100 kg with clothes etc.
Need range of 25 km with 500 meter climb
would like to do 35 kph on flats and 15kph on dirt road climbs
If I carried my paragliding kit I would add 15 kg, would help but not necessary.
I would be either using a full suspension aluminum mountain bike my son doesn't use or buy a cheap older donor bike on craigslist.

My current thoughts after trying to delve into this black hole of information.

Front hub geared motor for simplicity (lighter, doesn't put excessive strain on chain, less drag then direct drive in pedal only capacity) please let me know if you disagree on this.

figure 52v system to power up hills. Steepest section is 8 kilometers and 250 meter elevation gain with some steeper sections, but easy to make with passenger car loaded with people so not real steep.

Money is a little tight right now, and this would be a luxury for me.

 

[MadRhino]

Climbing dirt with a front motor is not your best option. If you build with a hub, it should be on the rear.
For the rest, your expectations are easy to meet and don’t require expansive components. Your biggest investment will be the battery.

 

[dogman dan]

Agree with that. An inexpensive rear motor kit on a decent, but old bike will do. Spend the battery though.

 

[markz]

Get that rear hub, in a smaller diameter wheel, get it laced into a 19" motorcycle/moped rim with mc tires, whether it be a fat bike, plus bike or normal mtb, old or new. No mention of weight needs for bike, so I'd personally go with a used fat bike, because you never know what terrain you will run into. Mud, deep sand so a fatty would suffice, more cushion for the pushin :wink:

 

[ironbrewer]

The dirt roads I will be using are pretty well maintained. They are always passable by a normal passenger car like a civic, corolla, etc. I would like to try to keep the bike to about 50 to 55 pounds without battery so it won't be too heavy for my bike rack.

Looking at maybe something like these from ebikeling

Waterproof 36V 500W 26" Geared Front Rear Conversion Kit https://ebikeling.com/collections/conversion-kit/products/waterproof-kit-36v-500w-26-geared-front-rear?variant=23328265928768 for US$260

Or this Waterproof 48V 1200W 26" Direct Drive Front Rear Conversion Kit https://ebikeling.com/collections/conversion-kit/products/waterproof-kit-48v-1200w-26-direct-drive-front-rear?variant=23328269992000 for US $310

Maybe the 48v one with this battery https://em3ev.com/shop/preditor-l-47v-8-4ah-11-8ah-frame-battery/ for US $380

Or the 36v one with this battery https://em3ev.com/shop/36v-super-shark-ebike-battery/ with 17 ah version For US $420

But what about this option with the 20.4 ah 52 volt battery. Motor Wheel 500W Electric Bicycle Kit 48V ebike Conversion Kit 36V Ebike Kit MXUS XF15 Hub Motor 52V 20AH Polly Battery Ebike from the Chamrider store on allied express? Is it too much of a crap shoot? I asked the store what cells they are using. Not sure they are being truthful. This is there reply

21/05 07:55

Production Information
Motor Wheel 500W Electric Bicycle Kit 48V ebike Conversion Kit 36V Ebike Kit MXUS XF15 Hub Motor 52V 20AH Polly Battery Ebike
US $389.70 - 558.02
Hello I have a question about this ebike kit with the kit with the 52V20.4AH Polly 9 battery what brand 18650 cells are used?
21/05 21:00

Production Information
Motor Wheel 500W Electric Bicycle Kit 48V ebike Conversion Kit 36V Ebike Kit MXUS XF15 Hub Motor 52V 20AH Polly Battery Ebike
US $389.70 - 558.02
22/05 01:24

Hi friend , there two types cells in the battery.
One is China cell ,the other is Tesla cell .
Gwen
Tesla cell is from Tesla and manufactured by Panasonic. We printed our logo on the outer packaging of the battery. It is a battery with quality assurance and larger capacity.

 

[MadRhino]

‘Maybe the 48v one with this battery https://em3ev.com/shop/preditor-l-47v-8 ... e-battery/ for US $380’

Yep. The rear 48v 1200w kit, tell them you need the low KV winding. The em3ev battery is good. I recommend the 5p, with charger.

 

[markz]

Best not to skimp on anything, figure out what size Ah battery you require and add 20% to the Ah capacity.
Get a good charger that will charge the battery in good time.
Most importantly, choose the right motor, direct drive hub, geared hub or mid drive. Even if it was farmers fields to retrieve stuff, I'd go with a mid drive because you just dont know what the terrain will be. Then the gravel roads, with the wash boards ruts and tractor damage to the road, then you might have to hump the bike over a barb wire fence. I'd get the BBSHD, and a battery that you can take off easily, like a triangle bag thats velcro'd, or a rear rack slider battery, easy to take off and hump over fences, throw across a wide ditch.

BBSHD 4.8kg and 1700W
https://ebikechoices.com/bafang-bbs02-vs-bbshd/

Leaf 1500 (direct drive hub) Parcel weight of 12.300 KG all on the front or back.

MXUS 3000W (dd hub) 9.4kg
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=99430&p=1455829&hilit=mxus+3000W+weight#p1455829

 

[999zip999]

We all agree the battery is em3ev drive a leaf 1,500 d.d kit or Mac 8t kit from em3ev with c.a done ! Steel bike frame chromoly used cheap look at the 7sp derailleur for the quality of bike ( clue ) and room for the big nut to fit ( room for a big nut to fit ) plus a torque arm.

 

[MikeSSS]

Distance is 15.5 mi, desired speed 22 mph, rider weight 220 lb, climb 1600 ft. Using 300 lb for rider + bike + battery + stuff, gives 186 Wh for just the climb at 100% efficiency. At 50 % eff. the Wh for the climb becomes 373 Wh. 22 mph will use a lot more battery than 14 mph.

I used to ride a direct drive front hub using a 48V, 13.5Ah, 648Wh battery with Panasonic GA cells. Rider, bike, everything was about 275 lb. Data from 612 miles, 17.5 mi average ride, around 500 ft elevation gain average, 12.5 mph average speed, gave average watt hours of 239 based on recharge records. Average Wh/mi was 14.36. I'm not comfortable using more than 50% battery capacity, but I need the battery to last as long as possible. For your ride my choice would be 48V, 20Ah or 52V, 20Ah, this larger battery because your elevation gain is around 4x my average.

If using a hard tail, one having a steel frame would give better resistance to drop out damage than an aluminum frame. Front suspension would be nicer than rigid forks. Even a cheap suspension seatpost will take the edge off seat shock as will a seat with steel springs, like a Cloud 9 seat.

Hope this helps.

Edit to add: Grin makes the best torque arms I've seen, other than pinch type home made torque arms.

 

[999zip999]

Yes 20sh is a bike battery.

 

[ironbrewer]

Distance is 15.5 mi, desired speed 22 mph, rider weight 220 lb, climb 1600 ft. Using 300 lb for rider + bike + battery + stuff, gives 186 Wh for just the climb at 100% efficiency. At 50 % eff. the Wh for the climb becomes 373 Wh. 22 mph will use a lot more battery than 14 mph.

I used to ride a direct drive front hub using a 48V, 13.5Ah, 648Wh battery with Panasonic GA cells. Rider, bike, everything was about 275 lb. Data from 612 miles, 17.5 mi average ride, around 500 ft elevation gain average, 12.5 mph average speed, gave average watt hours of 239 based on recharge records. Average Wh/mi was 14.36. I'm not comfortable using more than 50% battery capacity, but I need the battery to last as long as possible. For your ride my choice would be 48V, 20Ah or 52V, 20Ah, this larger battery because your elevation gain is around 4x my average.

If using a hard tail, one having a steel frame would give better resistance to drop out damage than an aluminum frame. Front suspension would be nicer than rigid forks. Even a cheap suspension seatpost will take the edge off seat shock as will a seat with steel springs, like a Cloud 9 seat.

Hope this helps.

Edit to add: Grin makes the best torque arms I've seen, other than pinch type home made torque arms.

I did specify slowing down to 9 or 10 miles per hour on the hills, just doing the 22 mph on the flat pavement parts of the ride. I was figuring on looking for an older chromoly mountain bike with front suspension. They are very easy to find for about $100.

And I do appreciate all responses. They are very helpful.

 

[motomech]

It's always best to keep the climbing speed at least half of the top speed w/ hub motors. Too low put's the motor in an inefficient zone that produces more heat than locomotion. It can also be hard on controllers and phase wires as the controller tries to supply max Amps.

 

[ironbrewer]

Thanks for that tip. I didn't know about at least half speed of total on climbs.

 

[Bullfrog]

Hate to distract from your exact question but I have a very similar question except most of my riding will be on relatively flat ground. I have built a bunch of bikes with BBSHD or MAC power but now I want to build an inexpensive yet reliable Rear DD Hub powered bike. I have everything except the rear wheel/DD hub motor...how do you guys like the inexpensive kits sold on Amazon like Voilamart/AW/JaxPety/Ebikeling compared to one of the Leaf Bike kits? The Leaf kit is a little more expensive than the others but is it worth the extra cost as far as reliability?

When I say "kit", I mean the motor/wheel/controller...like I said, I have batteries/chargers already. I'd like to have about a 40A controller so keep that in mind...not sure any of the "Amazon" kits are capable of 40A.

Thank You and hopefully whatever answers I get will help the original poster with his question .

 

[markz]

Inexpensive is fine, Voilamart, yescomusa, rusinmotor etc

If you need to pack or carry the ebike you might want to look into a 20" or 24" wheel folder, they also come in 26" regular bike style but fold. Remember DD hubs without juice have resistance when riding, geared motors you can pedal easier. Pro's and cons to each.

Leafbike is good, excellent efficiency from nepronix posts.

 

[Bullfrog]

Thanks...after digging deeper, it looks like the Amazon kits come with 20-30A controllers. With the leaf I can easily get a 40A controller for not a lot more.

I'll probably go with the Leaf kit.

Just found the Grin Tech "212" kits which are basically a Leaf with a little larger diameter and they also have a DD45 (45mm wide) but with each increment in diameter/width there is a step up in price as well as power capability but the bigger motors are heavier and less stealthy from a visual perspective...decisions decisions :lol: .

 

[markz]

Also the bigger the dd motor the more power it can handle and the more heat it can shed to maintain that power level for longer.
Also look into Statorade cooling liquid if your motor gets hot.

Greentime EVFitting on Aliexpress has cheap controllers in the power levels you want at good prices.

Thanks...after digging deeper, it looks like the Amazon kits come with 20-30A controllers. With the leaf I can easily get a 40A controller for not a lot more.

I'll probably go with the Leaf kit.

Just found the Grin Tech "212" kits which are basically a Leaf with a little larger diameter and they also have a DD45 (45mm wide) but with each increment in diameter/width there is a step up in price as well as power capability but the bigger motors are heavier and less stealthy from a visual perspective...decisions decisions :lol: .

 

[Bullfrog]

Thanks for the controller info.

I'll probably just use some low viscosity ATF if my temps start escalating...used it in my MAC and it worked great until it leaked a tiny bit got on my rear brake disc and the brakes completely went away .