Controller Cooling Mods - Heat-sinks, Fans, Oil, Water, Etc.

[Cowardlyduck]

There doesn't seem to be any other consolidated threads about the various controller cooling mods, so I'll start this one.

There are many different types of controllers out there, but many of the existing cooling mods are in threads about those specific controllers, or build threads. Almost none of the cooling mods are tied specifically to those controllers, or builds, so why not have a single thread with everyone's cooling mods so we can all learn from each other and see each others awesome work.

I've read about cooling mods with oil filled controllers, controllers mounted directly to the inside of frames, and most recently Kiwiev's awesome mod with a CPU cooler and some copper bar...but I'll let him post the details on that so as to not steal his thunder.

So, everyone who's done a controller cooling mod of some sort, post a summary of what you've done (preferably with a parts list so others can do the same) and lots of photo's. 8)

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I'll start.
This is my Adaptto MiniE with a heat-sink and 3 fans mounted to the side as previously posted in the Adaptto owners thread:

The heat-sink is from E-bay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121532652740?

The fans are Yeah Racing fans with 5.13CFM: http://www.rcmart.com/rc-yeah-racing-ya0201-tornado-high-speed-25x25mm-p-29521.html

They will probably get dirty/wet/muddy etc over time...but they are cheap, and that is why I have some spares.

There is thermal paste under the heat-sink:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121405296689?

I also added this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121310196991

It goes between my frame and the underside of the controller. It's not the highest thermally conductive stuff out there at 5W/mK, but also not terribly expensive at ~$10 vs the $30+ for the 6-7W/mK stuff.

One of the reasons I did this mod was I needed to reduce the voltage getting to the fans I'm running inside my motor if I want to run them in series directly off a higher voltage battery.

Overall, in the limited testing I've done, the whole setup works well. The thermal pad is very effective and I can feel the whole underside of my frame becoming warm as the controller heats up. With the fans running, I haven't yet been able to get the controller above luke warm. I think the summer months will be where this mod really shines.

***EDIT***
I've since ripped off the fans as they were unnecessary and loud. Cooling is more than capable with the thermal padding, and I also added a second heat-sink on the other side held on with zip ties and thermal paste.

Cheers

 

[kiwiev]

Awesome

I will do I will try and borrow a thermal gun to read temps etc in the next few weeks.

And will post my coolers mods here.

Cheers Conrad

 

[kiwiev]

So I did my cooling mod for 2 reasons:

1) efficiently making the controller work at 80-100 amp bursts
2) I wanted this bike to look clean with no controller visible or vents in the covers.

I use 25mm x 3mm copper buzz bar as my thermal link and hose clamped to the side of the controller where the FETs are with a thermal mate between.

see below

 

[kiwiev]

And copper buzz bar on controller

 

[kiwiev]

the hard thing was trying to get this outside the box and to some where out of the way, so I mounted a CPU heat sink in the seat mount with some heat paste and drilled and tapped a thread in the heat sink.
I have only ridden 2 times so far at 60-70kph and you can feel the heat coming out of the battery box on the copper buzz bar and cooling as it gets to the heat sink.

Cheers Kiwi

 

[Kepler]

My modifications were very simple and just entailed the removal of the controller out of its case and screwing the heat sink directly to the inside the bike's metal frame. A liberal quantity of thermal paste was of course applied before attaching the controller.

I have done this mod with on my Fighter using a 6FET Mini Monster controller (4110 FETS). Have run this setup for 2 years mainly with peaks up to 200W Watts but also on occasions up to 3000W.

Did the same modification to a Bomber that use to own. It ran 12FET 130V controller with 12kW peaks and never missed a beat.

 

[Punx0r]

The weight of the controller and cables is hanging from the FET legs?

 

[macribs]

*Subscribed* for future references.


Great idea this thread!

 

[kiwiev]

Here is another idea I've been thinking about for a while.

I got it from Vietnam when I was working there in the early 90s the Ex Army trucks are still on the roads there, but the radiators and water pumps are stuffed, so they have a 44 gallon drum of water on the roof of the cab.
They gravity feed the water into the motor and then it dribbles out of 3/16" pipe on to the ground. Seems to work great

So for an E-bike Hub or Controller or both you could feed water thru a copper pipe via controller then down to the swing arm onto the Hub on the chain cassette side it would only need to drip on to the hub to cool the surface I think 1-2 litres would last 30-60 minutes.

anyway just a thought

cheers Kiwi

 

[macribs]

I think that version is already tested. Doc maybe did it?
Anyhow iirc they had a more "turbocharged" version. Not gravity fed but sprayed water via high pressured pump(s?) and nozzle(s?) on the hub.
Also used on various race cars etc to cool down intercooler and turbos during races.

But not really a clean solution, I rather see a closed loop system with heat sinks and heat pipes.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

When I rode in the snow up a mountain I shoved snow in the side cover vent holes onto the windings to help cool it.
It was very effective, and made a very satisfying sizzling sound.

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Just came across this guy's Oil cooled controllers:
[youtube]Sc1FJ7NJ99k[/youtube]
Seems like he might sell them also, but I can't find his website.

I'm sure I've seen others on E-S have done oil cooled controllers before, but I can't find them now...anyone care to comment?

Cheers

 

[macribs]

I have not seen oil cooled controllers here afaik. But oil cooling of electronics are time tested and well proven. Over clockers have been playing with various liquids including 3m non conducting fluid, mineral oil, cooking oil and even baby oil for almost 2 decades now. I never seen anyone that has had a defect due to oil cooling.

If you are pushing high power oil cooling of controller would radically lower the temps. However fans and cooling fins might work just as well or close and are less messy.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Whether air-cooled or liquid-cooling, I would think that sealing the electronics would be the first step. What are the most popular sprays to seal-up the insides?

 

[macribs]

Whether air-cooled or liquid-cooling, I would think that sealing the electronics would be the first step. What are the most popular sprays to seal-up the insides?

Thats the thing, when you use tested oil that do not conduct electricity there is no need to shield the electronics. If you are talking about the controller casing itself my apologize - english is not my native language.

 

[kiwiev]

just bought one of Samd new 18 FET controllers for the the "Black Russian" he thinks the FET bar should bolt straight to the frame of the Vector or maybe I can use some more copper Buzz bar

Or maybe a couple of fans like Cowardly duck I could just run off a small separated Lipo

Any thoughts?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Or maybe a couple of fans like Cowardly duck I could just run off a small separated Lipo

Any thoughts

That could work. Depends on how many fans, but a small 4S LiPo pack would work well with most 12V fans.

Cheers

 

[kiwiev]

Thanks maybe just 3 fans it would be cool if I could find a thermal switch to turn fans on and off.

Cheers Kiwi

 

[macribs]

Thanks maybe just 3 fans it would be cool if I could find a thermal switch to turn fans on and off.

Cheers Kiwi

Yes fan noise should be restricted as much as possible. Ebay got what you looking for. That will let you fans run only when needed.

 

[Baron]

Whether air-cooled or liquid-cooling, I would think that sealing the electronics would be the first step. What are the most popular sprays to seal-up the insides?

Also interested. What would be the process for oil cooling a controller? Is it as simple as sealing up the inside of the aluminum casing from leaks, then adding mineral oil? Maybe upgrade the thermal paste between the fets and the aluminum casing while you're at it?

Do you have to worry about the oil freezing in the winter?

 

[Thud]

I have not seen oil cooled controllers here afaik.

Here you go:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40549

edit: found Karmas thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=25286#p365579

 

[macribs]

I have not seen oil cooled controllers here afaik.

Here you go:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40549

edit: found Karmas thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=25286#p365579

That karma dude has deleted all videos that are releated to the thread topic - rather we get to see a 5 min video of dented rim!
He should have asked the mods to remove the whole thread. As it stands it makes me crazy.

 

[amberwolf]

I think Auraslip also oil-filled a cotnroller? Can't remember for sure if it was him.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

The thing really holding me back from trying it is how to seal the wires...
It should be easy enough to seal the controller casing, but how do you prevent the oil traveling down the wires and seeping out plugs?
This is especially a concern where controllers are mounted wire side down under the down tube like many do including myself.

Anyone know how this problem could be over come?

Cheers