controller help PLEASE!

Ebikebert

100 W
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
211
Location
Saint Cloud Fl
hey guys today is a sad day for me. I started today riding my e-bike for the first time after many hard working months. It was fun while it lasted but i knew there was something wrong with my setup. Here is my setup list. I have a 1000W yescomusa motor running with a 9 fet 72v lyen controller running off of some fresh 20s 4p Samsung 25R batteries. I knew there was something up when it was running a top speed of only 30.8mph where it should be hitting 40 mph easily on full throttle. I checked the voltages coming from my throttle and it measured.81v at rest and 3.52v at full throttle. So i said to myself perfect! Its just the throttle because i know the voltage between the ground and signal wire are supposed to go up to 5v for full throttle. HERE IS WHER SH*T WENT REALLY WRONG so i had a dc-dc converter and set it at 5v to use as the full throttle value for the controller. I had everything hooked up and powered on my bike. i proceeded to pull out first the signal wire and the motor went full throttle without me realizing for about 2 seconds and then stopped on its own. My motor wont spin now and something inside my motor has shorted because it is now hard to pedal with the motor now where it was easy before. So now im stuck with the wrong throttle for the job and a shorted motor (I think).
Do you guys think i blew a hall effect in the motor or something like that? thanks I really need your help guys I have been unsucessful on finishing my build for over two years!
 
Yeah, sounds like the phases are shorted somewhere. Is the motor still hard to turn if you unplug everything from your controller and the motor wires aren't touching each other?
 
I put 48v through a lyen 3077 12fet and measured the throttle signal once and it wasn't 5V. The red wire i mean, it was more like 3.5-3.8V,definitely no where near 5V like you, so i think thats normal.

But correct me if I'm wrong, isn't the yescom 48v rear kit only good for 45-48Km/h max?

Maybe you're controller limited. You probably need to reprogram it and jack up the current
 
If i unplug everything (the phase and hall wires) it spins freely again but when i hook it up properly with my controller ( i color coded everything) it is difficult to turn the motor and the controller no longer spins the motor. The yescom kit is limited only to the voltage used. A few years back guys used to use 24s lipo and go 50mph with these same motors.
 
I'm a bit unclear about how or why the DC-DC converter is involved here.

If you have nothing but the controller hooked up to the motor + a hall-sensor throttle, is the wheel still hard to turn?
 
By the way, most controllers require an input voltage between 0.8-4.0v ish. Yours was probably working ok.

Your top speed at 72v could've been correct too, depending on wheel size. For more speed you'd either need to up the voltage or set an overspeed option in your controller settings.
 
Testing for Blown Mosfets

This guide will show you how to use a multimeter to test a controller's mosfets.

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
 
Your throttle signal was normal. It's a very bad idea to use a DC/DC converter into your throttle signal input. It could have blow the CPU in your controller, but your symptoms aren't consistent with that. Instead, your problem was elsewhere, probably wrong phase or hall sequence, which causes massive current to flow that blows the FETs. You should test the FETs using the above-mentioned procedure, which should show the problem; however, unless your good at electronic repairs, it's looking like you need a new controller.

As a general rule, you should never use full throttle if your bike isn't running right. It's always best to measure the no-load current with a new installation too.
 
There's also at least a 1 second delay on power-up before many DC-DC converters output anything. Might've been enough time for the controller to see an "ok" low voltage throttle signal, then it shot straight to around 5v.

d8veh said:
Your throttle signal was normal. It's a very bad idea to use a DC/DC converter into your throttle signal input. It could have blow the CPU in your controller, but your symptoms aren't consistent with that. Instead, your problem was elsewhere, probably wrong phase or hall sequence, which causes massive current to flow that blows the FETs. You should test the FETs using the above-mentioned procedure, which should show the problem; however, unless your good at electronic repairs, it's looking like you need a new controller.

As a general rule, you should never use full throttle if your bike isn't running right. It's always best to measure the no-load current with a new installation too.
 
Pretty much know right now he blew the fets in the controller.

Why it was running slow could be other problems, including the fets were already damaged.
 
thanks for the help guys I will test my controller. I was never even able to use the dc-dc converter at all. all i did was remove the signal wire on my throttle and it went crazy. The motor did seem like it was running a bit rough before this anyways so the controller could have had problems all along im guesing. Does anyone have a cheap 72v controller i can buy?
 
hey guys I tested the controller and these are the results between phase1 and ground is 4.95 k Ohms between phase 2 and ground is 5.75 k ohms and between phase 3 and ground is also 5.75 k ohms. The controller is using 9 4110 mosfets. I then proceeded to take apart the controller and it looks like everything is normal on the inside too. I don't see anything that looks like it blew up inside. edit I just hooked up the phase and hall without any power and it is still hard to turn the wheel with it. Without the controller hooked up the motor spins nicely again. It seems to me like the phase wires are shorting somewhere but i can't figure it out.
 
A few pictures on the inside of the controller. The gold stuff is the thermal paste it got into many places when i applied it. I don't see anything blown up on the inside and the controller smells the same way as when i got it brand new.I don't smell anything that would suggest something blew.
 

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Ebikebert said:
yes, sadly we are I am going to send mine back to Lyen tommorow.
Have you measured resistance between phases of the controller?

P.S. I mean you only posted about phase to ground R but nothing about Phase to Positive. It is kind of half job done. :?
 
Well that settles it, my controller has blown mosfets although I dont really know how since Ive never really been hard on it at all. Looks like a new controller from Paul is coming soon. Ive had problems with this controller before and even talked to Paul about it but it eventually did start working again but now it just wont run and when it does run it stops once you turn the power off and turn it back on again. So it appears that a blown mosfet is the cause of the problem and probably always was.
 
hey thanks for your help you guys. I believe i do have a blown fet and im just going to send it back to lyen to get it fixed. I don't want to mess anything else up!
 
Ebikebert said:
hey thanks for your help you guys. I believe i do have a blown fet and im just going to send it back to lyen to get it fixed. I don't want to mess anything else up!

Just be prepared to wait a while, he seems very busy. I sent my controller back 4 weeks ago and it's not done yet. He does good work so I'm ok with that but if you're in a hurry you may want to look elsewhere.
 
Here's a cheap 72V cpntroller that will work well.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-72V-1500W-45Amax-BLDC-motor-speed-controller-15FET-4410-s-Electric-Bicycle-Controller/499889986.html
 
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