Critique this performance velomobile idea

The Toecutter said:
Amberwolf, thanks for sharing your description of the abuse of your Roundworm tires. They show better tolerance to abuse than any of the bicycle tires I've ever used.
They've worked better than any other 20" tire I've tried so far, though to be fair they are two of only three new 20" tires I've ever had. All others were used, saved off various bikes and whatnot disassembled for projects.


I wonder how long they'd last on smooth roads?
Well, the roads here are "smooth", in that they are usually well-paved...except for the ridges/waves/dips/potholes caused mostly by heat and large vehicle acceleration/braking at or near intersections, driveways, etc.

There are exceptions, most of which I avoid, but some areas like right next to where I work I can't avoid, and tha'ts full of holes and cracks big enough to get some narrow bike wheel stuck in (probably not mine).

If you look thru my Delta Tripper thread there are some descriptions of roads farther south and west of here that are not in great conditions (some are pretty bad).


They're a better candidate than any other bicycle tire that I have researched thus far, by that description, but not up to the standards of DOT approved tires.
No, they're not, and if I could find them locally I'd be using Pirelli ML75 or Shinko equivalents, just to reduce flat worries.

FWIW, though, I also have had zero flats on these tires, even without using the tire liners in them. That's saying a lot given the crap that ends up in the roads here off construction trucks, salvagers, and whatnot, which are everywhere all the time, and sometimes quite careless about what spills out of the tailgate. That doesn't even mention the spines and whatnot from seeds and plants around here.




With 300 lbs of cargo though, that is 650 lbs bouncing on those tires and tubes, when they weren't even at the proper pressure! A laden vehicle of 650 lbs moving at at 20 mph hits a bump with the same momentum as a laden vehicle of 250 lbs moving at 52 mph, so they seem capable of handling the impacts that they would be subjected to under my useage patterns, at least for 1000 miles or so.
Keep in mind that the extreme loads I have are not common, as I'd rather use the trailer for those--but occasionally something comes up that I must carry home *now* and don't have the time to go get the trailer and come back.

So, most commonly there will be 350-400lbs of total weight on the bike, most of which will be on that rear wheel.


I'm concerned about how this trike will behave in a panic stop and I will need for it to be stable during the application of the brakes. 0.3-0.4g or so is about as much braking as I want, as I do not want to land the vehicle on its nose at any speed.

You can also add "reverse wheelie bars" that stick out the front, that would help to prevent a complete flip of the vehicle in the event of a panic stop--but you'll want reasonably large-diameter wheels on them so that they cna't stick in a rough patch in the road during sucha stop, or they end up making it worse like a pole vault jump. And they'd have to stick out a fair distance.

The most important thing especially at higher speeds is absolutely equal braking force on each tire so you don't brake-steer. I'm sure *someone* has already made a system to help brakes on those things auto-adjust during braking, but I don't know what it is or how to do it.

I thought about it a lot when I was going to build an AirTrike, which never happened (no money for the suspension parts and never got the right salvage bits to emulate them), and I never quite figured out a practical way to do it that didn't get so complex I worried my inadequate fab skills and tools would end up making it unreliable.


The law in AZ is too restrictive... 20 mph gets you run over in most of the U.S. :(
It could, here, if this bike wasn't so large and obvious that I think many people that'd run me over are afraid of hurting their cars/trucks. :wink:

But I'd rather have a 20MPH restriction than a power restriction (htere is no power limit here). I need the power to haul things and to accelerate quickly much more than I need the speed.

So I'll take unlimited power vs higher speeds.



I am curious as to what that Zero MC rim weighs.

Not much--given ebike part weights and the rest of my bike, it's irrelevant to me. :wink:

My spare is presently partly laced to an X5304, so I can't test it. But you might look up Ypedal's old for sale thread about them, it might have that info in there. There may be a link to it in the same thread you found my other post in, but I can't remember if it was before or after that one--probably after, since I didn't go lacing up the motor into that rim till after that tire failed.



0-20 mph in 4 seconds is not bad acceleration for your vehicle. I own a 120+ mph capable diesel land yacht of a car that accelerates from 0-20 as slowly as that! The fact that your ebike build can match a car to 20 mph is impressive.

Well, that's only around 2500-3000W, IIRC (detailes on tests are in the CB2 thread somewhere). Iv'e had up to 4KW+ but was a larger diameter wheel and I don't remember any details of performance. Working on getting that back with the smaller wheel and see what happens.



I've beaten quite a few cars almost all the way thru the intersection, and though most are not *trying* to beat me, at least a double handful have--usually some "hot rodder" that's got rubber-band tires, custom rims, etc., but probably not much done on the engine itself other than making it loud. Often they rev it up repeatedly while sitting at the light next to me, and I'll often be across the crosswalk on the first side of the intersection before they even get started. Usually they're past me by the time we reach the crosswalk on the other side, but not always. SOmetimes they only pass me after I reach 20MPH and have to stop accelerating (I don't know what the performance curve is beyond that point).


Personally I'd like to get power capable of smoking my tires and causing a wheelie if I really poured it on, though I would almost never use it, it'd be fun to have the accleration capability that would give me.

But on this bike I expect I'd need 5-digit wattage to do that, and I don't know that any motor I already have could take that, or that very much of the current would end up making work and not just heating up the motor.
 
amberwolf said:
The most important thing especially at higher speeds is absolutely equal braking force on each tire so you don't brake-steer. I'm sure *someone* has already made a system to help brakes on those things auto-adjust during braking, but I don't know what it is or how to do it.

The most common kind of dual cable brake lever I have seen uses a teeter-totter linkage so that it is somewhat self-adjusting and so that both cables see equal tension.
 
Amberwolf, I can tell you from personal experience that there is great satisfaction in effortlessly passing a banger in a hotrod who yips "HOMO!" at you from a light. =) And if you have enough power to skid at the speed limit (30mph in this case) that's just icing on the cake =) Green and fun and cool! :mrgreen:
 
If you're really concerned about safety, the Tadpole itself is not a safe design. You mentioned "Elongated wheelbase," you really want your feet behind a line where a front axle would be. Plus I'd think real hard about the idea of getting up to 30mph on most any Tadpole I've ever seen.

I wonder what will happen if Tadpoles become more popular and get more motors.

The FX sounds good, but I don't know that I'd want to pay over $4k for it. Sure would be just the old bike guys around here would like to convert. Then there's the MotoMountain that was supposed to be $1,500, but the price has floated to $2,300 and it's still not on the market.
 
Here is my Steintrike Mad Max going down a luge track at 60+ mph (100 kilos/hr). Seems to do OK, but with a professional rider. I never go over 20 MPH, but I would rather hit feet first in any accident than go over the handlebars. Landings on your head are tough.
otherDoc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh47ubjZFLE&feature=player_embedded
 
docnjoj said:
Here is my Steintrike Mad Max going down a luge track at 60+ mph (100 kilos/hr). Seems to do OK, but with a professional rider. I never go over 20 MPH, but I would rather hit feet first in any accident than go over the handlebars. Landings on your head are tough.

It's funny to me that 'bent riders fixate so much on normal bike riders landing on their heads (which isn't generally what happens even when you do get chucked off headfirst), while totally overlooking the risks associated with having chainrings between their legs as the first stopping point when they get chucked off their own bikes. It's not really feet-first, you know. It's crotch-first, onto the chainrings, perhaps simultaneously running over your own legs for good measure. Just like when you get pitched by a normal bike it's not literally headfirst, but hands first for better or worse.

Those dinky wheels are way more likely to be stopped dead by an obstacle, too.
 
amberwolf said:
Well, the roads here are "smooth", in that they are usually well-paved...except for the ridges/waves/dips/potholes caused mostly by heat and large vehicle acceleration/braking at or near intersections, driveways, etc.

There are exceptions, most of which I avoid, but some areas like right next to where I work I can't avoid, and tha'ts full of holes and cracks big enough to get some narrow bike wheel stuck in (probably not mine).

If you look thru my Delta Tripper thread there are some descriptions of roads farther south and west of here that are not in great conditions (some are pretty bad).

My road bike wouldn't handle that at 15 mph... I've been airborne from hitting road obstructions before, and it's not kind to tires.

No, they're not, and if I could find them locally I'd be using Pirelli ML75 or Shinko equivalents, just to reduce flat worries.

I wonder what the rolling resistance coefficient of those is...

FWIW, though, I also have had zero flats on these tires, even without using the tire liners in them. That's saying a lot given the crap that ends up in the roads here off construction trucks, salvagers, and whatnot, which are everywhere all the time, and sometimes quite careless about what spills out of the tailgate. That doesn't even mention the spines and whatnot from seeds and plants around here.

They would certainly be worth experimenting with if I can't find a bicycle/trike tire that can handle my requirements, but decide I can't budget MC rims/tires into the weight.

Keep in mind that the extreme loads I have are not common, as I'd rather use the trailer for those--but occasionally something comes up that I must carry home *now* and don't have the time to go get the trailer and come back.

So, most commonly there will be 350-400lbs of total weight on the bike, most of which will be on that rear wheel.

That is still the same momentum as a 250 lb laden weight at 28 to 32 mph. These may very well be safe tires at 35+ mph if run at their proper specifications, although given a trike is outside of that operating parameter, it would require frequent inspection and caution.


You can also add "reverse wheelie bars" that stick out the front, that would help to prevent a complete flip of the vehicle in the event of a panic stop--but you'll want reasonably large-diameter wheels on them so that they cna't stick in a rough patch in the road during sucha stop, or they end up making it worse like a pole vault jump. And they'd have to stick out a fair distance.

It's a bad solution with a terrible aerodynamic penalty. Larger diameter wheels may be in order though, especially if I go with MC rims and tires.

Not much--given ebike part weights and the rest of my bike, it's irrelevant to me. :wink:

My spare is presently partly laced to an X5304, so I can't test it. But you might look up Ypedal's old for sale thread about them, it might have that info in there. There may be a link to it in the same thread you found my other post in, but I can't remember if it was before or after that one--probably after, since I didn't go lacing up the motor into that rim till after that tire failed.

Tried some searching, nothing yet.



Well, that's only around 2500-3000W, IIRC (detailes on tests are in the CB2 thread somewhere). Iv'e had up to 4KW+ but was a larger diameter wheel and I don't remember any details of performance. Working on getting that back with the smaller wheel and see what happens.



I've beaten quite a few cars almost all the way thru the intersection, and though most are not *trying* to beat me, at least a double handful have--usually some "hot rodder" that's got rubber-band tires, custom rims, etc., but probably not much done on the engine itself other than making it loud. Often they rev it up repeatedly while sitting at the light next to me, and I'll often be across the crosswalk on the first side of the intersection before they even get started. Usually they're past me by the time we reach the crosswalk on the other side, but not always. SOmetimes they only pass me after I reach 20MPH and have to stop accelerating (I don't know what the performance curve is beyond that point).


Personally I'd like to get power capable of smoking my tires and causing a wheelie if I really poured it on, though I would almost never use it, it'd be fun to have the accleration capability that would give me.

But on this bike I expect I'd need 5-digit wattage to do that, and I don't know that any motor I already have could take that, or that very much of the current would end up making work and not just heating up the motor.

5-digit wattage would be very nice for me, and getting that to work smoothly with a pedal assist setup with torque sensor would be a challenge worth trying. A single AstroFlight 3220 motor with mid drive running with two 66.6V strings of Hobbyking Grenades(or maybe even a custom 18650 LiIon pack of similar parameters) might prove interesting, if I can find a pedal-assist capable controller of powering it. And it would be such dangerous overkill, when 1 kW would get a good velo to 50 mph...

Chalo said:
The most common kind of dual cable brake lever I have seen uses a teeter-totter linkage so that it is somewhat self-adjusting and so that both cables see equal tension.

Thank you, once again. I haven't researched this part yet, but knew I needed something to provide its function.

xenodius said:
Amberwolf, I can tell you from personal experience that there is great satisfaction in effortlessly passing a banger in a hotrod who yips "HOMO!" at you from a light. =) And if you have enough power to skid at the speed limit (30mph in this case) that's just icing on the cake =) Green and fun and cool! :mrgreen:

I think it would be priceless to have a velomobile with a translucent front so that bystanders and motorists could clearly see you pedaling, and then blow the doors off of a V8 Mustang or some random penis truck to 40 mph... while still being technically legal to operate without license, registration, or insurance.

Dauntless said:
If you're really concerned about safety, the Tadpole itself is not a safe design. You mentioned "Elongated wheelbase," you really want your feet behind a line where a front axle would be. Plus I'd think real hard about the idea of getting up to 30mph on most any Tadpole I've ever seen.

I wonder what will happen if Tadpoles become more popular and get more motors.

I like the tadpole layout for its aerodynamic advantage and its relative stability in a turn compared to a delta. This vehicle isn't exactly going to be a "safe design" but I want to get it as safe as possible for the criterion... which means I can't lose control of this thing.

I won't be able to get my feet behind the front axle line, but if I can keep myself very reclined, and set up some appropriate mirrors/cameras, I could dramatically lower frontal area, provide myself with a roll bar, and not loose too much visibility in doing so.

I may start out by not taking it over 30 mph, just to get a feel for it. 30+ is dangerous on a vehicle of this sort, and without a front suspension, it could easily go airborne on a deep pothole. I need to compensate for that to make higher speeds reachable for an extended period.

Most velomobiles are a tadpole configuration though, as it is more maneuverable than a delta, and less heavy than a quad.

A quad would simply be too heavy for my application(although it was the first idea I had), and I already have a tadpole trike in my hands now.

The FX sounds good, but I don't know that I'd want to pay over $4k for it. Sure would be just the old bike guys around here would like to convert. Then there's the MotoMountain that was supposed to be $1,500, but the price has floated to $2,300 and it's still not on the market.

I bring it up for it's rims and tires, brakes, suspension bits, ect. I suspect this bike has lightweight parts comparable in weight to DH bike parts, but with the functionality of safely allowing sustained highway speeds. Got to keep it under 100 lbs...

If it's not "legal", the statement this vehicle will make will lose its meaning.

docnjoj said:
Here is my Steintrike Mad Max going down a luge track at 60+ mph (100 kilos/hr). Seems to do OK, but with a professional rider. I never go over 20 MPH, but I would rather hit feet first in any accident than go over the handlebars. Landings on your head are tough.
otherDoc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh47ubjZFLE&feature=player_embedded

That doesn't look like 60+, but it's still impressive. That thing corners very well, and is the sort of cornering performance that I want!

Chalo said:
It's funny to me that 'bent riders fixate so much on normal bike riders landing on their heads (which isn't generally what happens even when you do get chucked off headfirst), while totally overlooking the risks associated with having chainrings between their legs as the first stopping point when they get chucked off their own bikes. It's not really feet-first, you know. It's crotch-first, onto the chainrings, perhaps simultaneously running over your own legs for good measure. Just like when you get pitched by a normal bike it's not literally headfirst, but hands first for better or worse.

Those dinky wheels are way more likely to be stopped dead by an obstacle, too.

The solution I am proposing to this is the following:

1) rider harnessed into chair
2) aerodynamic body shell designed to skid on the ground or on its side(the construction techniques for kayaks seem useful to this end)
3) either larger front wheels or a front suspension of sorts(maybe a Pantour Hub on each front wheel could somehow be made to work with a set of disc brakes?)

The real problem would be getting into a frontal collision at high speeds, bending the pedal crank and frame into your crotch... which not on my list of things to do in life. Getting run over, by anything, would be a death sentence, but that's the case on a motorcycle anyway.
 
After more searching, I found the following topics to be very helpful:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=33918

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=26148&p=693667

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45732&p=693772

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47471&p=695886

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=51323

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10224

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=15634

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24440

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26946

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26983

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31784

There is a lot of valuable information on this site and this has given me a lot more things to consider.


I am getting very confident that some form of this build is doable for ~$3k, capable of operating in a reasonably safe and efficient manner, with ass-hauling 0-30 in < 3 second capabilities and/or top speed approaching or exceeding 50 mph. My chassis will require modification to make this happen though; round steel tube is not nearly as strong as the square tubing...
 
[youtube]jvM7cSPZhec[/youtube]

A nice long wheelbase. Plenty of room to get the feet back.

Or. . . . (From this guy. http://www.amazon.com/HOW-DESIGN-BUILD-ELECTRIC-VEHICLE-ebook/dp/B00HMAPNQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425533701&sr=8-1&keywords=HOW+TO+DESIGN+AND+BUILD+AN+ELECTRIC+CAR+OR+VEHICLE#reader_B00HMAPNQM)

[youtube]4r9116Ksgxg[/youtube]
 
Both tadpole and delta trikes can have dynamic stability, and there are some erroneous comments above about how to get there, such as Dauntless's repeated suggestion to move the rider rearward on a tadpole. It's mostly about getting your CG close to the paired wheels, and low relative to the width between them. I too had some of the same misunderstandings above until recently. Here's an article with good info another forum member linked recently that may be helpful, http://www.rqriley.com/3-wheel.htm .
 
That is an interesting and provocative article, John. Thanks for the information. I am a dyed in the wool Steintrike fan, but the new tilter seems to be the ultimate trike. It is a bicycle, not a car, and has to be balanced to get the most out of it. It is also about 5000 USD, which ain't cheap. Stein also makes Velo body's for it's trikes, again not cheap. Probably about 7-8000 USD total. but with proven safety using roll cages. To the OP, remember that engineering these Velos is a lot of time and effort for professional engineers, so your total of 3K usd may need to be exceeded.
otherDoc
 
John in CR said:
dynamic stability, and there are some erroneous comments above about how to get there, such as Dauntless's repeated suggestion to move the rider rearward on a tadpole.

I haven't made a single statement about moving the legs to safety for stability's sake, nor would there be an error in it because it would require a longer wheelbase of course. Given the track record of legs forward of the wheels, ack, it's just asking for trouble. Stay on topic.
 
Dauntless, both of those videos depicted vehicles that were much too heavy for my application. They looked very solidly built, but I need to take the "less is more" approach for my design. It will keep it legal, improve its acceleration, cornering, and braking, reduce overall stresses on the chassis and its load bearing accessories, and overall extend my advantages in every facet of the vehicle's dynamics simply due to reduced weight.

John in CR, I've seen good performing delta and tadpole trikes, and that was an interesting link.

docnjoj, this project is going to start out more simple than the finished project I have in mind. I'm well aware of the cost to develop a vehicle from scratch(I once tried to design an electric sports car from the ground up as a college freshman, gave up when I realized I wouldn't have the money for a long time, and found a donor chassis to use instead), and am an engineer myself.

After much thought, I've considered that for going very fast, I should probably design everything from the ground up, and use the KMX trike I have in my possession to get acquainted with using trikes. I have very limited experience riding them, and I don't want to get myself killed.

In the meantime, I could still purchase all of the "go-fast" motor, controller, and battery that I will need, fit them to my current KMX chassis, and have the applied power to the motor severely limited(1 kW or so). Designing the vehicle to do 35 mph will work(although it may still be capable of reaching much more anyway).

I'm in the process of designing a body shell to test on that trike, instead of hacking it up. I'm looking at emulating the shape of the ICE Trike QNT for now, but modifying that shape to the proper "ideal" teardrop proportions based on my vehicle's width, length, height, and wheelbase, modifying the ducts appropriately, and intending to have a removable windscreen/roof. My build material isn't firmly decided, as there are many candidates to choose from. I'm still doing drawings, anyhow, to narrow down exactly what I want.

This vehicle is not going to cost me much. My most expensive component may just be a single AstroFlight motor with a 1/2" shaft, 2nd place to that being the trike itself. 3rd place, either battery pack or custom belt unit for the mid drive. Perhaps $2,000 for everything(incl purchase thus far). 30-35 mph would probably be the fastest I would regularly go, but I could still get the range/efficiency that I want, and be reasonably safe at the designated speed, thanks to an aerodynamic vehicle shell.

When I'm finally riding, I design my new frame, new suspension, new steering, new body, ect. in CAD. I model it and use the programs available to simulate its performance. I make every gram of mass count, and design everything with the features I want in mind. My KMX Thunderbolt is a heavy beast: a trike designed from the ground up to shave 15+ lbs off the Thunderbolt's frame weight while being much more sturdy at speed could use motorcycle and/or custom wheels/tires/brakes/suspension while still being light enough to keep the vehicle under 100 lbs.

In the mean-time, I can use my 1st prototype velo for testing/transportation, take detailed notes, maybe even take a long trip to Austin with it, and later transfer the relevant parts from my 1st prototype to the new frame when it's ready, and increase the power available to the motor(and add a 2nd motor) as desired.

My current KMX frame will not handle the high speeds I want nor will it accept a front suspension without severe modification. These are problems of the sort that will keep me from using it for a long time if I aspire to immediately go all-out and hack it up. I'm not really confident in any commercially available trike of under 40 lbs capable of handling 50+ mph for long periods without serious modifications, either.

I don't know a whole lot about welding, so custom work is for a later project when I have time for it. In the mean time, I do want a working vehicle, and it is the perfect starting point(and why I bought it).

I'm better off starting from scratch, choosing my materials appropriately(chrome moly square tube frame, or maybe instead a monocoque), and looking at the entire vehicle as a system with attention to how each component influences the other. THAT project will add another $2,000-3,000 or more if I do all of my own work, and can be done over the course of this year. I need to more thoroughly study Maurice Olley's book "Chassis Design: Principles and Analysis", along with riding around a working trike to test, for finding out exactly what I want out of creating my intended long-term design.

I wasn't joking in the first post of this topic when considering triple digit speeds. There's got to be a way to do it, and still have a "legal" "electric bicycle" that needs no title, tags, insurance, license, or papers of any kind to operate. :twisted:

In the meantime, this weekend will be a chance to make some progress with getting the trike working as it is. The design of a custom vehicle is a project in and of itself separate from actually getting a usable vehicle off of my donor.
 
I rode my KMX home at 53mph not twenty minutes ago :mrgreen: And that, only because I haven't yet gotten the 0603 resistor to fix my controller and get my 60mph top end back. And that's on a 2-month old road that's all buttery smooth asphalt. Recumbents without suspension SUCK on rough roads; don't forget that unlike a DF bike, you can't stand on the pedals to reduce your unsprung weight. Everything on a KMX is unsprung. That said, they're incredibly tough trikes... but my KMX has made me wish for suspension, cargo capacity, and weather resistance more than anything. Despite the slight aero advantage over a DF, it manages to result in even more wind chill.
 
And if you find one front wheel hitting a bump or hole at that speed, and not the other, just at a critical moment....

Not such a big deal with suspension if it's designed right, but with no suspension, bump-steer might just cause "undesirable operation".

Even on my CrazyBike2, hardtail bike, or Delta Tripper, no-suspension delta trike, I get problems at only 18-20MPH when there are sudden unexpected (or unavoidable) bumps or potholes--especially repetitive ones with the asphalt "waves" across intersections--the tire may bounce up high enough to lose traction completely for long enough to effectively have no control over a direction change, especially if I was in a turn at the time.
 
Self-made, old-style tadpole is bit of a crazy horse above 25 mph, i agree with that as a new tadpole rider. On my tadpole front wheels are far up front, it"s pretty tailheavy.
You only need a slight mis-steering move above 25 mph, and another front wheel is airborne. Makes you adrenaline flow all right :)
No matter who much you try to slow down the steering ratio, up to the point it turns nowhere anymore, steering is still fast as hell above 25 mph, no matter you have all caster, camper, etc in place.
It really is a kind of a mustang. One downhill goes 100% well no matter you go fast, on another downhill it tries to kick you to the ground.
Sill love it, though :mrgreen: It"s so different thing to ride than up-right. It"s another sport.
 
a couple of things to consider:
1. visibility: if totally enclosed on road you need 100% visibility in all directions, one blind spot could put you under a truck
2. stability: if going for three wheels: your pretty much limited to low to the ground, anything with some height quickly becomes unstable. Unless you have tilting trike then can go with larger wheels( higher above ground).

I would consider going for 2 wheeler totally enclosed, same height as standard 26" bike, keeps your viewing distance good,
if you are very low to the ground apart from being scary, you have limited visibility.
Also two wheels equals less resistance.

If doing long distance consider two motors, if one fails you can still get home.

Totally enclosed = hot in summer, need good ventilation, sun protection above head.
 
(24) "Electric bicycle" means a bicycle that:
(A) is designed to be propelled by an electric motor, exclusively or in combination with the application of human power;
(B) cannot attain a speed of more than 20 miles per hour without the application of human power; and
(C) does not exceed a weight of 100 pounds.

So make the human power operate an over-ride switch that changes the voltage, amperage, controller whatever. Switch on = 50mph, switch off = 20 mph. Design it so that it has to be pedal operated and Bingo! as we say here in Blighty (UK). Have the battery mounted in a back pack and that then ups the weight limit too.
 
Martin A said:
(24) "Electric bicycle" means a bicycle that:

(B) cannot attain a speed of more than 20 miles per hour without the application of human power

It takes "human power" to move a switch. :lol:
 
Did anything ever come from that guy in North Carolina developing the velo for around 4000USD?
otherDoc

Oh yeah, This one.
http://www.gazettenet.com/home/7771110-95/cycling-amherst-baker-gets-cooking-on-new-set-of-power-assist-wheels
 
I've never had a problem with bump-steer, perhaps the rotational inertia of my moped tires/rims helps resist it. Potholes don't matter, but cracks that are significantly raised above the surface of the road are awful. I even deliberately pop one wheel or the other up just for fun to avoid bumps/debris at 20-50mph, unsuspended direct steer gives you so much tactile feedback. =) Haven't been able to hold on two wheels for more than a few seconds, though :)
 
Interesting article on recumbent aerodynamics:

https://lonniemorse.wordpress.com/2013/03/13/faired-or-un-faired/

xenodius said:
I rode my KMX home at 53mph not twenty minutes ago :mrgreen: And that, only because I haven't yet gotten the 0603 resistor to fix my controller and get my 60mph top end back. And that's on a 2-month old road that's all buttery smooth asphalt. Recumbents without suspension SUCK on rough roads; don't forget that unlike a DF bike, you can't stand on the pedals to reduce your unsprung weight. Everything on a KMX is unsprung. That said, they're incredibly tough trikes... but my KMX has made me wish for suspension, cargo capacity, and weather resistance more than anything. Despite the slight aero advantage over a DF, it manages to result in even more wind chill.

Can you link to me info for this vehicle?

I believe 100% it will perform as stated, but my concern is what happens when you hit a 2" piece of random debris at 60 mph that you didn't see? A front and rear suspension of some sort is a must...

I ASSume that your KMX has beefy square tubing to handle those speeds without bending.

Mine doesn't. The pieces of steel that link my front two wheels together have only 0.080" thick walls. I do have 90mm or so disc brakes, and a rear shock from a mountain bike under the seat. 26" rear wheel, 20" front wheel. With 250-300 lbs laden weight, and traffic all around me, what do you think will happen if I hit a pothole at 20 mph? 35 mph? 50 mph?

I might be tempted to take this thing to 50+ mph as a pedal-only velomobile once or twice when conditions are permitting(good tail wind, or downhill, ect), but definitely not with any regularity. With a body shell, I'll only need 1 kW or so total power anyway, pedal or electric, to do 50 mph on the flat.

But with any regularity, I think 35 mph would be a good limit for my KMX Thunderbolt, once converted to electric. That's the speed limit on most major streets in town anyhow.

I'm getting an opportunity tomorrow to look at some steel tubing in a scrap yard. A friend of mine wants to custom build his own from scratch right away.

amberwolf said:
Even on my CrazyBike2, hardtail bike, or Delta Tripper, no-suspension delta trike, I get problems at only 18-20MPH when there are sudden unexpected (or unavoidable) bumps or potholes--especially repetitive ones with the asphalt "waves" across intersections--the tire may bounce up high enough to lose traction completely for long enough to effectively have no control over a direction change, especially if I was in a turn at the time.

This mirrors my experience riding road bikes. I've been unintentionally airborne a given number of times(haven't kept an exact count) at speeds less than 18 mph. I like imagining answers to the question of "What can go wrong?" when riding a 50 mph capable trike where you can see the undercarriages of all of the nearby vehicles.

Eskimo said:
Self-made, old-style tadpole is bit of a crazy horse above 25 mph, i agree with that as a new tadpole rider. On my tadpole front wheels are far up front, it"s pretty tailheavy.
You only need a slight mis-steering move above 25 mph, and another front wheel is airborne. Makes you adrenaline flow all right :)
No matter who much you try to slow down the steering ratio, up to the point it turns nowhere anymore, steering is still fast as hell above 25 mph, no matter you have all caster, camper, etc in place.
It really is a kind of a mustang. One downhill goes 100% well no matter you go fast, on another downhill it tries to kick you to the ground.
Sill love it, though :mrgreen: It"s so different thing to ride than up-right. It"s another sport.

Interesting. Mine at least has a rear suspension. It definitely needs good traction though... once you start skidding, getting traction and/or stability back may be a challenge.

whatever said:
a couple of things to consider:
1. visibility: if totally enclosed on road you need 100% visibility in all directions, one blind spot could put you under a truck
2. stability: if going for three wheels: your pretty much limited to low to the ground, anything with some height quickly becomes unstable. Unless you have tilting trike then can go with larger wheels( higher above ground).

Stability is preferred to visibility for my application. Scary isn't bothersome as long as I have good control of the vehicle and can move quickly(low frontal area/drag would help with that).

I'm considering a total height of roughly 31" in one of my drawings. There will be mirrors and possibly cameras with small LED screens. Low frontal area helps make it easy to pedal at speed, and this is important for cruising range and notability by motorists(you have more time to be seen by a speeding vehicle from behind the faster you go).

I would consider going for 2 wheeler totally enclosed, same height as standard 26" bike, keeps your viewing distance good,
if you are very low to the ground apart from being scary, you have limited visibility.
Also two wheels equals less resistance.

I've studied The Lynchmobile a bit(see Cedric Lynch), and understand it is very efficient for what it is, and could be replicated as an HPV, but having to put your feet down to stop through holes in the bottom would be problematic. I want something that can keep me mostly enclosed from the elements and can stop without the rider having to expose himself.

If doing long distance consider two motors, if one fails you can still get home.

Yup. That, and pedal power can be used on its own as well.

Totally enclosed = hot in summer, need good ventilation, sun protection above head.

Ventilation without adding much drag is what NACA ducts are for... Sun protection above head is very workable, at the expense of visibility. I burn easily, so it's a must.
 
thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56622&start=25

album: http://imgur.com/j39k4lW,tUMuM6i,qoMeDOH,qZiWijD,QK7Jtcs,6aKRp5D,xI0TuMi,EpaSBTg,o0ZgvBg,p6BssTY,lbDj4Uz#10
From my pre-garage days.

And my light/flagpole at night: http://imgur.com/Lef339V

I have since doubled up the battery box and welded tabs under it, and repainted the frame though it's already really dirty...

It is definitely comfy, responsive, reliable... simple. But the more i want to build my delta. Just a matter of time
 
Thanks, xenodius. That information was very useful, and has served to reinforce the notion that what I want to build is possible. A CroMotor may be too heavy for my requirements though, and I'd be better off with something of less weight, in order for me to account for the weight of a front/rear suspension, body shell, MC wheels/tires, and bigger brake calipers/rotors, ect. Regen is not needed for my build, but is possible with hub motors.

A custom chassis or monocoque will be needed for the 100+ mph scratch built, but my Thunderbolt should still meet my lower 30-35 mph speed requirements for the 1st prototype while getting the range I want and with very usable performance, especially when compared to a normal road bike. The 100+ mph build will need "only" 7 kW or so to reach it with a CdA of < 0.15 m sq, but more power might be worked in if possible, as accelerating like a jackass is fun. 20 kW would give me a 0-60 time faster than most new cars under $40,000...

Front and rear suspension doesn't need to be complicated; a good DH bike shock in the rear, and McPherson struts up front, each with ~2" travel, would be perfect. Need to know how much that would add to the base weight of a custom frame or monocoque fitted with a steering system. Probably 5 lbs or so.

A dacron/polyester body is light and rigid, and more than light enough to exceed my max weight for the body shell. Getting the aero correct will be key to its success. A shell weight of 10 lbs or under is very doable.

You're using MC tires and may be able to tell me what wheels that you fit them onto and what their weight and weight of the tires was.
 
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