r3volved said:
As far as the climbing you were most worried about...told ya so
Yeah I really didn't expect heat to be totally a non issue, to the point I should exchange the ca temperature readings for a probe in the controller!
There is no doubt this motor is a million times better than a hub on the terrain, the question is all the chains and shafts. I can't get the main reduction shaft
to stop wobbling. It was like that from the first tests with no riding or grub screw damage. If I tighten the chains it gets better but they arent meant to be that tight....
Anyway I hope it holds up to a real test ride this weekend.
The true test of everything will be the continual riding steep, which the controller will probably be the weakest link.
If I had know that this thing needed so little power I might have just stayed with 12s because it feels like I climb almost everything around 2kw.
19/11 First time I tested off road I had constant clacking on uphill sections. I then shifted the sprocket to the best line I could get and I got only a couple slips (I kept the power around 2kw max. )
I then removed a link as the chain was obviously loose, and pulled apart my battery into halves charged as 12s & 8s with different charge profiles set.
This morning I went for my first what I thought long ride but as always I do my testing area first because it is extreme and almost completely down hill return to home...
The clacking sound has returned! dam , so it was a short spin not even an AH...
My chain skips only when I go up a hill or put a lot of pressure on the pedals.
The Cause of the problem:
This is a common occurrence when one component of a drive train has just been replaced or a drive train has been used so much that the chain skips over the top edge of the cog teeth.
Every time you ride you make your chain longer due to the force of pedaling. A new chain will measure exactly one chain rivet or pin for every half inch. A chain that has thousands of miles ridden on it will have pins that almost match up on every half inch mark, but by the time you get to twelve inches the twenty-fourth pin will be around twelve and one eighth inches. As a chain stretches it wears the leading edge off of the cogs and chain ring teeth. Mixing a new chain with old cogs is a problem because the new chain usually doesn't mesh with the worn gears and skipping results. (worn gears will look like shark fins or will hook slightly on the worn edge) Frequently lubricating your chain helps to keep the loose metal from worn teeth acting like sandpaper and speeding up the wear process.
Usually skipping presents itself in your favorite gear, as this is the gear that wears out the first. Other problems associated with a worn drive train are bushings coming out of the chain, bent cog or chain ring teeth, and individual teeth breaking off of cogs or chain rings. All of these problems can cause a chain to skip while under pressure.
Solutions:
The first step is to rule out that you may have a tight link. (See part one)
Once you are sure that you don't have a tight link, inspect the chain for missing bushings (the washer between the side plates) and look for missing teeth on the cogs and chain rings. Sometimes you can replace a few links in a chain to solve the missing bushing problem, but you more than likely will need a new drive train soon. For broken teeth you will probably need to replace the cogs and the chain as new cogs will skip with the old chain.
If no teeth or bushings appear defective take out a ruler and measure your chain setting up the chain pins on the half inch marks. If at twelve inches the pin is past the twelve and one eighth mark, your chain may have stretched long enough that you will need to replace the cogs and chain together and quite possibly the chain rings. Another thing to check is chain on the large chaining (at the pedals) to see how tightly the chain hugs the ring. If you can easily lift the chain off of the big chain ring, your chain has stretched and it may be time for a new drive train.
from https://athenscyclepath.com/wconnchainskips2.php
EDIT hour later
got to go work now but have swapped chains to
Wippermann 7E8
Based around the 7R8 which is renowned for its durability and strength. The 7E8 is the perfect upgrade for any narrow hub gear E-bike. Also works with 7,6 and 5 speed derailleur systems.
Reinforced design and high-grade coating for maximum wear resistance.
Ideal for high-torque E-bikes, heavy touring bikes and fixies.
1/2" x 3/32", pin length: 8.8mm
Weight 430g/110 links
112 links incl spring clip
Will test after work if it makes any difference. This thing only just clears my torque brace. And didn't really come to mind because I knew it doesn't work with narrow chain rings, that I have bought for the front....
EDIT
Been a big day
This is a couple of shots of some work I've been doing.