Doctorbass 2WD ADAPTTO / NYX / MXUS 32kW 105 pounds

madin88 said:
thank you master :)
if i calculate with 1,82mm height it would be 7,28mm² for the bar.. maybe a typo somewhere?

Thanks.. info corrected!
 
Doctorbass said:
Ebikebert said:
Hey doc. Really excited to be seeing you push the limits of what is possible with e-bike hubs once again. I love my mxus 4t, and wanted to know how you made those sweet venting holes.


The holes on the outer diameter are CNC machined with the help of NYX guys and the round holes on the center are diy with large multidiameter drill bit

Doc

Please do explain how the "holes in a pizza pan" approach to ventilation creates a flow of fresh air through a motor. Once you can explain the flow, the next step is to quantify. Start with the specific heat of air, then include the expected temperature increase from ambient air drawn in to the air exhausted, and multiply by the flow rate required to remove say 1kw of heat, a fairly easy to create quantity of heat. Sorry I'm not going to serve it up on a silver platter, because that doesn't work. Moving heat requires at least some basic research, and once armed with the physics, then more people can increase the knowledge base instead of blindly copying what barely works.

I maintain that it is both foolish and unnecessary to make large holes in hubmotor covers, and I run my primary ride at 27kw peak input into a ventilated hubbie that only twice in 2 years has exceeded 100°C at the stator. A higher efficiency motor is only part of the equation. FWIW nothing larger than 1-2mm can possibly enter my motor, and the overall shell structure isn't weakened in any meaningful way unlike the all too common and barely effective (as proven by Justin's thorough tests) large hole approach.

While Doc gets his ebike ready for the quarter mile and top speed runs, let's at least make the discussion interesting from a physics standpoint instead of the direction the quoted posts suggest.

John
 
John in CR said:
Doctorbass said:
Ebikebert said:
Hey doc. Really excited to be seeing you push the limits of what is possible with e-bike hubs once again. I love my mxus 4t, and wanted to know how you made those sweet venting holes.


The holes on the outer diameter are CNC machined with the help of NYX guys and the round holes on the center are diy with large multidiameter drill bit

Doc

Please do explain how the "holes in a pizza pan" approach to ventilation creates a flow of fresh air through a motor. Once you can explain the flow, the next step is to quantify. Start with the specific heat of air, then include the expected temperature increase from ambient air drawn in to the air exhausted, and multiply by the flow rate required to remove say 1kw of heat, a fairly easy to create quantity of heat. Sorry I'm not going to serve it up on a silver platter, because that doesn't work. Moving heat requires at least some basic research, and once armed with the physics, then more people can increase the knowledge base instead of blindly copying what barely works.

I maintain that it is both foolish and unnecessary to make large holes in hubmotor covers, and I run my primary ride at 27kw peak input into a ventilated hubbie that only twice in 2 years has exceeded 100°C at the stator. A higher efficiency motor is only part of the equation. FWIW nothing larger than 1-2mm can possibly enter my motor, and the overall shell structure isn't weakened in any meaningful way unlike the all too common and barely effective (as proven by Justin's thorough tests) large hole approach.

While Doc gets his ebike ready for the quarter mile and top speed runs, let's at least make the discussion interesting from a physics standpoint instead of the direction the quoted posts suggest.

John

John I like your point,.. But dont forget that the air in these holes will flow not only by convection or centrifugeal but also with the speed of the bikeThe holes are facing the radial side too not only axial. So the air that arrive at the same speed of the bike will enter thru these holes on the radial side.

But for a 10-15 sec run a motor that stand at 25 degree C ambiant and get like 1500W of heat during this time does not represent alot of temperature increase....

Doc
 
if i look at the covers i cannot see anything wrong. if the motor spins, the air will flow into through the round holes near the axle, over the windigns and through the outer holes out of the motor. works like a radial fan and with the outer holes as far as possible outside it is optimal. additionally the entire inside is painted which should lower thermal resistance of core to shell about 20% (source: justins tests)
only one word: fantastic job doc!! okey, that was two words :lol:

you have right john that you can improve things everywhere, but i personally would not want to have that large radial propeller blades you have mounted to the covers. it for sure will keep the motor cooler and also adding more surface area, but it looks not really good :p and it could be dangerous if you get in contact with the blades when the motor spinns.. the thing with only small debris can enter the motor is great. i like that.
 
Doc, by that logic it doesn't need any ventilation at all. Of course you'll use it for more than the drag run.

Madin88, the discussion isn't about my approach, but your argument is on par with a fear of running a wheel with spokes, since you could hurt yourself sticking your fingers in the wheel while it's spinning. My point is that people should stop encouraging others to copy what Justin has already proven to be ineffective at moving air. Claiming otherwise is silly. You guys are so innovative in every other area, why remain stuck hardly moving from Steveo's pioneering 5 years ago? I realize fluid dynamics and thermo-dynamics can be daunting, but defining the problem requires only elementary school math...multiplication and division. Our single biggest performance limitation demands more than wishful thinking.
 
Hm I can't remember what your motor looks like John. Care to derail a bit and post a pic here? Would love to see your motor.
If not maybe you could Pm me a pic?
 
After looking at Justins experiments with ferrofluid Ill be heading down this path, keeping the motor sealed and providing effective cooling. Id still be interested to see what that combination would be like with a heatsink too. Now to find a heatsink in a ring shape.
 
macribs, here's a picture of John's motor

file.php
 
this motor has the rim attached to the case thats even better for heat emission. have you put thermal paste between when mouting it? :mrgreen:
 
madin88 said:
this motor has the rim attached to the case thats even better for heat emission. have you put thermal paste between when mouting it? :mrgreen:

True, but it would require that the shell get reasonably hot to make enough difference for those kinds of efforts to be worthwhile, but I get such good air flow to reject the heat directly from the stator to the environment that I haven't considered further mods other than a few tweaks for the next. I'm not going to discuss it in Doc's 2wd NYX thread though.
 
Hey Doc,

Have you opened the 14kw Adaptto you got?

I'm wondering what the differences are compared to the 10kw version? I believe the 10kw is a 18 fet, is the 14kw a 24 fet? Does it use the same IRFP4468 to-247 package mosfets?

thanks
-steveo
 
Allex said:
New vs old.
Old is the one with screws on the alu heatsink
http://stokgolm.myftp.org/Share/

its looks identical to the old other then the caps changed... basically a relabled 10kw to 14kw.. im guessing the big changes could be in the power programming limits of the software

-steveo
 
Caps are the same. You have to look closer to see the diff.
You can program the power limits yourself til you go blue :) the software does not limit this.
 
Allex said:
Caps are the same. You have to look closer to see the diff.
You can program the power limits yourself til you go blue :) the software does not limit this.

you could almost make a game of comparing the two.. i noticed...

all changes are on the mosfet/capacitor board...
different 100v caps (maybe simple different band)
tiny little surface mount resistors near the mosfets (i assume they where added to prevent damage to the pcb/driver board in the event of a mosfet blow out)
I also noticed in one of the pics that there is a random tiny white wire running between the mosfet board / driver board
And i notice also a little i think .. jumper added on the mosfet pcb

small changes overall.. I'm sure its for good reason to ensure is survives at 14kw power limit...

will the 14kw firmware work on the 10kw controller ? I'm guessing it would because the driver boards look identical

-steveo
 
Apparently the biggest changes took place in the gate drivers which I believe are the 3 smaller daughter boards. Brain PCB appears to be the same, so probably just a more robust power stage.

These controllers definitely are capable of 14kw and potentially much more with some modifications. My Mini-e is running 7kw and that's a 6 fet! With an additional heatsink the mini-e is more than enough to smoke my Cromotor. This morning got the motor to 110c and controller was 32c after a fast 20km commute.
 
Hey Alex

do you have any photos of the "daughter" boards old vs new ?

thanks
-steveo
 
Allex said:
Hm, which one is that? I still have them cracked up so I can post pictures.

those 3 tiny "daugher" boards that are near the mosfets. they are standing up vertically off the mosfet pcb.

they are on the same side as all the capacitors, maybe you could sneak a couple good shots even though the caps are a bit in the way...

hope this helps

thanks
 
Old on top:
http://stokgolm.myftp.org/Share/DSC06169.JPG
Old:
http://stokgolm.myftp.org/Share/DSC06175.JPG
New:
http://stokgolm.myftp.org/Share/DSC06171.JPG
 
Excuse me, mr Doctorbass, I'm really willing to build my own electric bicycle, can you give me any piece of advice? I would be extremely grateful for that! My mail is gen.imagine.44@gmail.com
 
Mr.Gen.44 said:
Excuse me, mr Doctorbass, I'm really willing to build my own electric bicycle, can you give me any piece of advice? I would be extremely grateful for that! My mail is (redacted)

Actually, I'm looking for high speeds, such as 130-150 kph

I think you have "bicycle" confused with "motorcycle". ;)

Instead of soliciting personal help, which many people rarely have time/inclination for, I highly recommend you create yourself a single project thread here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=10

and post your budget, needs, terrain, conditions, constraints, etc there, so you can get help from the forum.


Also, I don't recommend publishing your personal contact info on a public forum, unless you don't care what kind of stuff gets sent to you (spammers and others commonly harvest such public information).
 
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