Dual drive ebike- controller alternative.

DomW

100 µW
Joined
Sep 2, 2023
Messages
8
Location
The Ohio Valley, Ohio
Greetings,
I am very new to ebikes. I like to tinker/hack/modify/reprogram etc. Strap a microcontroller on it and WooHoo! Why I am posting is I would like a controller with a GUI and a lot more data than the monochrome LCD that came with the bike. I am happy with it's speed and most everything else about it. I don't think it is giving all that it's got on hills, but I could be wrong and my 250lbs is too much for it. I have done a lot of Google searches for controllers and I think the ones based on VESC fits the bill. From the apps I have looked at for the iPhone and a VESC based controller, I think I would be happy. My wife might not be, but I would be. I am looking for input or recommendations from people with ebike experience.

What I have looked at are:
or
Two of these connected through CAN bus maybe?
or
This one looks like it has the specs, but all I read about it is for electric skateboards.

If you know of other companies making a VESC or another type of controller, let me know. My budget is around $200, but less is better.

Here is what I have:
E-Bycco EB7PRO dual drive ebike.
Specs: 2x1000w geared hub motors. Their video on replacing the motor showed it has three gears inside. On the motors is printed 48V1000W25"23072007 with an H in a circle logo
Controller: It has 2, Label says: Brushless DC Moter Controller, Voltage: DC48V
Maximum current: 21+-1A, Brake: Low level, Low voltage protection: 39+-1V
Product number: JH4AJ5135DZYK, Batch No:JHD20230719, Ex-factory date: 19-07-2023
Dongguan jing hui Controller Co;LTD
Yes, it says Moter. Looks like the spell checker was fired in early July.
Bike has cruise, horn, headlight, thumb throttle, front motor on/off button and a LCD-M5 display with three buttons.

Results for- eb7pro - 1 of 1 (1).jpegResults for- eb7pro - 1 of 1.jpegResults for- eb7pro - 1 of 1 (2).jpeg
 

Attachments

  • Results for- eb7pro - 1 of 1 (4).jpeg
    Results for- eb7pro - 1 of 1 (4).jpeg
    122.7 KB · Views: 11
return the bike for credit and buy a different one suited to your needs, i get the urge to tinker but do you really want to spend time and money on something thats likely to kill you if it takes your attention off the rd ahead for a split second too long.

junk bikes and upgrade kits can be a lot of fun too??
 
Do off the shelf bikes show the extra info he wants? I know on my CycleAnalyst there's a series of letters with varying capitalization that tells you what is limiting the bike right now, e.g. at set speed limit, at set amp limit, etc.. It's display number 12 here:

Sounds like he wants something like that, but in color. I suppose it's true he could just get an off the shelf bike with race or off-road mode to remove the limits and enough capacity he wouldn't need to tinker. He may not have or want to spend the money for that, though.
 
junk bikes and upgrade kits can be a lot of fun to
Yes, anything that gets me off my butt and out of the house, but doesn't cost a small fortune (all at once). I'll check the data when I'm not moving. Had a friend that would lean over and look down at the radio to change the station while I watched her drift into oncoming traffic. Thank the gods that cell phones had not caught on yet. When you are on a bicycle you are watching the road for those kinds of drivers.
Sounds like he wants something like that, but in color.
Yes! Data logging, GPS data. I have(had) some great GPS logs from when I pretty much lived to ride my '96 BMW R1100RSL. Sturgis, Daytona Beach, Ocean City, Washington D.C. to name a few and everything else in between. Hmm, maybe I should have gotten another Beemer instead?
 
What I notice is that the controller for your "1000W" bike is something that would normally come on a 500W bike.

I suggest, first of all, that the stupid tires on that bike are slowing you down like you're dragging a dog bed with a dog in it. If a bike is no good to ride without a motor, it's not a good bike even once you add a motor. I suggest swapping to a 3.0" or 3.5" street tire if you keep the bike.

Replace the controller with a 35A one; my recommendation is a KT controller and one of their whiz bang displays like LCD8, that puts all your settable parameters on the same screen to monkey with.
 
What I notice is that the controller for your "1000W" bike is something that would normally come on a 500W bike.

I suggest, first of all, that the stupid tires on that bike are slowing you down like you're dragging a dog bed with a dog in it. If a bike is no good to ride without a motor, it's not a good bike even once you add a motor. I suggest swapping to a 3.0" or 3.5" street tire if you keep the bike.

Replace the controller with a 35A one; my recommendation is a KT controller and one of their whiz bang displays like LCD8, that puts all your settable parameters on the same screen to monkey with.
2x 1000w motors, 2x controllers, 1x battery with max 50a draw 2x 35a controllers == trouble..
 
2x 1000w motors, 2x controllers, 1x battery with max 50a draw 2x 35a controllers == trouble..
Ah, I missed the 2 motors part somehow (even though that's probably why I clicked on this thread).

Yes 2 x 21A controllers should be more than adequate. Especially if those horrible tires aren't being dragged along for the ride.
 
I suggest swapping to a 3.0" or 3.5" street tire if you keep the bike.
I agree. I can hold on to the knobby tires until after I move to a place with dirt roads and lots of rain.
2x 1000w motors, 2x controllers, 1x battery with max 50a draw 2x 35a controllers == trouble..
So start with a better controller(s). Knowing that the fuel tank can't deliver enough current as is for over enthusiastic riding, I should program-in a safer maximum limit and/or run only one wheel at a time. This is fun!
 
So start with a better controller(s). Knowing that the fuel tank can't deliver enough current as is for over enthusiastic riding, I should program-in a safer maximum limit and/or run only one wheel at a time. This is fun!
Your battery can handle a max 50a draw YOU Dont want to max it out, my battery understanding isnt great But i dont think you would want to attempt to draw any more amps than your current controllers do from your current single battery when it comes to some metrics a healthy level of headroom is advisable and i think this is such a state.

So a 2nd tank or battery would allow you to devote all the draw from one battery to each controller giving you ample scope to employ more powerful controllers. but thats not a cheap option and is well beyond the $200 budget.
 
Your battery can handle a max 50a draw...
How do we know that's even a 50A capable battery? Vendors' battery specs are most often highly suspect, commonly way overstated. 48V 23Ah and 50A battery? I'd like to know what kind of miracle cells it uses. Especially at that price point.

OP can you contact the vendor to get the specifics of the battery? S and P count, and cell specs? Then we can do the math and see what you're really dealing with, and make suitable recommendations based on reality.
 
I can hold on to the knobby tires until after I move to a place with dirt roads and lots of rain.
Okay but take it from someone who rides in the rain for much of the year, knobby tires on wet (or even dry) roads are no bueno. Offroad, dirt, mud, sand, snow, etc. OK but not pavement.
 
How do we know that's even a 50A capable battery? Vendors' battery specs are most often highly suspect, commonly way overstated. 48V 23Ah and 50A battery? I'd like to know what kind of miracle cells it uses. Especially at that price point.

OP can you contact the vendor to get the specifics of the battery? S and P count, and cell specs? Then we can do the math and see what you're really dealing with, and make suitable recommendations based on reality.
Fair point, i was only going by the label photographed, and how valid that claim is? i have no idea..
I was more concerned at pointing out its value in comparison to the suggested 70a draw that 2 x 35a controllers could demand.
OP's performance issues could well be the battery is failing to deliver the amps requested..
 
The battery is pretty heavy, I was tempted to open it but chickened out.
The controller only says 21 amp max.
 

Attachments

  • Untitled - 1 of 1 (3).jpeg
    Untitled - 1 of 1 (3).jpeg
    272.8 KB · Views: 10
  • Untitled - 1 of 1 (2).jpeg
    Untitled - 1 of 1 (2).jpeg
    159.2 KB · Views: 11
  • Untitled - 1 of 1 (4).jpeg
    Untitled - 1 of 1 (4).jpeg
    253.3 KB · Views: 9
  • Untitled - 1 of 1.jpeg
    Untitled - 1 of 1.jpeg
    198.5 KB · Views: 10
Back
Top