E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Korpin, so glad so see you are up and running. Looks like one sweet ride you have there. Lookin at the pic of your CA, everything showed "0". Whats that about? I would like to make a suggestion, before you get head over heals about the new aluminum wire stators coming out, enjoy your bike for a while. 2-3 pounds on an 85# bike isn't going to be that noticable going up stairs. Geared hubs will bring your weight down 11 or so pounds but I don't know of any geared hubs that can handle the wattage you got going through that. Be that as it may, I am really happy for you to have your bike done. For a minute, I thought HPC was pulling a burn on you, I am really glad that was not the case. Please give us a ride report when you get a chance. 8)
 
Rix said:
Korpin, so glad so see you are up and running. Looks like one sweet ride you have there. Lookin at the pic of your CA, everything showed "0". Whats that about? I would like to make a suggestion, before you get head over heals about the new aluminum wire stators coming out, enjoy your bike for a while. 2-3 pounds on an 85# bike isn't going to be that noticable going up stairs. Geared hubs will bring your weight down 11 or so pounds but I don't know of any geared hubs that can handle the wattage you got going through that. Be that as it may, I am really happy for you to have your bike done. For a minute, I thought HPC was pulling a burn on you, I am really glad that was not the case. Please give us a ride report when you get a chance. 8)
Click to expand...

well not sure what the "0" was all about...spent many hours reading the CA manual did not know they were gonna use Crystalyte APM so gotta start over again...I DO NOT mean geared hubs I mean GEARED DRIVES check out the Audi bike AWESOME 65 pounds.........maybe this weekend I will take it out busy trying to make a living at the moment...2' or 3 pounds is not huge I guess the only way to get lighter using this frame is probably a geared drive system....the frame seems real solid like the stealth fighter I tried a couple times....never was able to ever see a bomber in person...gonna be a few more hours of reading before I can even take it out spent hours tonight reading and adjusting forks,shock,and adding slime to inner tubes (in addition to mr. tuffies and thorn proof tubes) because a flat tire on an 80 pound bicycle without quick disconnects is not my idea of a fun saturday.....
 
korpin said:
Rix said:
Korpin, so glad so see you are up and running. Looks like one sweet ride you have there. Lookin at the pic of your CA, everything showed "0". Whats that about? I would like to make a suggestion, before you get head over heals about the new aluminum wire stators coming out, enjoy your bike for a while. 2-3 pounds on an 85# bike isn't going to be that noticable going up stairs. Geared hubs will bring your weight down 11 or so pounds but I don't know of any geared hubs that can handle the wattage you got going through that. Be that as it may, I am really happy for you to have your bike done. For a minute, I thought HPC was pulling a burn on you, I am really glad that was not the case. Please give us a ride report when you get a chance. 8)
Click to expand...

well not sure what the "0" was all about...spent many hours reading the CA manual did not know they were gonna use Crystalyte APM so gotta start over again...I DO NOT mean geared hubs I mean GEARED DRIVES check out the Audi bike AWESOME 65 pounds.........maybe this weekend I will take it out busy trying to make a living at the moment...2' or 3 pounds is not huge I guess the only way to get lighter using this frame is probably a geared drive system....the frame seems real solid like the stealth fighter I tried a couple times....never was able to ever see a bomber in person...gonna be a few more hours of reading before I can even take it out spent hours tonight reading and adjusting forks,shock,and adding slime to inner tubes (in addition to mr. tuffies and thorn proof tubes) because a flat tire on an 80 pound bicycle without quick disconnects is not my idea of a fun saturday.....
Click to expand...


I think what Rick was talking about is the cycle analyst displays volts remaining. But as you say this is chrystalytes own controller and its completely different. On the cycle analyst it would show remaining volts. This is the question Ricks asking why is saying the volts saying 0. On the cycle analyst this is not the case.
 
Rodney64 said:
dimpirate said:
Down Payment made!!!!!!! Woohoo can't wait!!! :D :lol: :p
Click to expand...
Well done Dimpirate. Once the decisions made the waitings the hard part.

Any idea on what components you are going to use.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rodney !!!!
Not quite sure what I'm using yet :? ...
Here is what I know
I'll be running a 24S4P 100.8 of charger on 24' wheel (currently using hookworms on 26' love them)!!!

David at phasor told me I have a few weeks to decide dropout width once I'm sure what motor ill be using.
He's also trying to make a swing arm that can work from 135-150 (not quite sure how he'll pull that of would be cool though)

Motor wise I was really tempted to go with cromotor or 5403, the weight turns me off though.
HT3525 seems like an option as well at 80amps with my power setup it would take 30 minutes to fry (won't be driving wot for 30 minutes at a time so no worries for me)
Korpins build has got me pretty intrigued as well as reading lots of good things about 4065
Just got of the phone with HPC they say the 4065 they sell is moded better (silver) 11 guage phase wires diffrent bearings, and a few other things I believe magnets :roll: well modded beyond what I understood should have written it down (ill ask for a detailed email). It also has heat sensor inside.
This is what there offering there modded 4065 plus aircooling an 18fet sensorles controller for 90V nominal at 60 amps. The controller also works with temp sensor slows down half way at 90c and shuts down at 120c (I believe those were the numbers). He also assured me that besides a little jitters from a complete dead stop( avoided by moving slightly forward) there are no bumpy times when accelerating he can also make CA compatible.
What I don't like is that if I decide to go for more amps I can't program controller like I would with Lyen. The heat sensor compatibility is a definite plus though!!
All this from HPC is +- $1000

So motor and controller still not sure..

Wheel build ill probobally go thru Holmes... Don't want to go with scooter rim, will probobally just go with strong downhill rims and appropriate spokes and 20mm through hole in front wheel for forks.
As far as suspension not sure (don't know much about bicycles exept for how to ride them), I just weigh 155 lbs though when going to work I carry an extra 40-60 lbs sometimes. I'll only be off roading occasionally,but want good suspension for comfortably hopping up and down sidewalks and potholes along the way.
Definattely want some bad ass breaks to!!!!

For all the rest Ill choose as I go, might just follow phasor suggestions

Lots of choices be months before I get this going still exited!!!
 
Rodney64 said:
korpin said:
Rix said:
Korpin, so glad so see you are up and running. Looks like one sweet ride you have there. Lookin at the pic of your CA, everything showed "0". Whats that about? I would like to make a suggestion, before you get head over heals about the new aluminum wire stators coming out, enjoy your bike for a while. 2-3 pounds on an 85# bike isn't going to be that noticable going up stairs. Geared hubs will bring your weight down 11 or so pounds but I don't know of any geared hubs that can handle the wattage you got going through that. Be that as it may, I am really happy for you to have your bike done. For a minute, I thought HPC was pulling a burn on you, I am really glad that was not the case. Please give us a ride report when you get a chance. 8)
Click to expand...

well not sure what the "0" was all about...spent many hours reading the CA manual did not know they were gonna use Crystalyte APM so gotta start over again...I DO NOT mean geared hubs I mean GEARED DRIVES check out the Audi bike AWESOME 65 pounds.........maybe this weekend I will take it out busy trying to make a living at the moment...2' or 3 pounds is not huge I guess the only way to get lighter using this frame is probably a geared drive system....the frame seems real solid like the stealth fighter I tried a couple times....never was able to ever see a bomber in person...gonna be a few more hours of reading before I can even take it out spent hours tonight reading and adjusting forks,shock,and adding slime to inner tubes (in addition to mr. tuffies and thorn proof tubes) because a flat tire on an 80 pound bicycle without quick disconnects is not my idea of a fun saturday.....
Click to expand...


I think what Rick was talking about is the cycle analyst displays volts remaining. But as you say this is chrystalytes own controller and its completely different. On the cycle analyst it would show remaining volts. This is the question Ricks asking why is saying the volts saying 0. On the cycle analyst this is not the case.
Click to expand...

Korpin, Rodney clarified my question, (thanks Rod) with your CA display. I miss understood your Geared Hub vs Geared Drive statement. I spoke to a guy that recently bought Bomber, he also has a geared drive unit on MTB conversion and said he was tired of all the constant maintanance from adjusting and replacing stretched chains and the cog sets needing replace after a dozen dirty rides. He did say the geared drive did climb steeper than the Bomber because of gear selection/reduction just tons of maintanance. I think your HPC65 is the hot setup though. I even tossed the idea around of getting a 4065 to replace the 5403 on my Bomber, but ended up going with a 5404 which is currently be worked over by DLogic. Should be awesome when I am done.

Dimpirate, way to go! Keep us current with your build as it comes along. BTW what color will your Phasor be?

Rick
 
C6260503-FBE1-4C40-9504-CCE0EC56C1FC-1455-000001280AC9D305.jpg


Korpin, photo of seat post. I cut the front to get the seat tight
 
Hey Rick, going with white black.

The web sight is looking good, I can't get the suggested components link to open. Have you guys had any luck?
David sent me the attachments in an email a few weeks ago.... Not working no more.
Sent him an email I'm sure hell reply tommorrow just anxious to do some more research right now.
Do any of you maybe have a link that works. Would be great :D
Fred
 
heres something cool I came across...they are dc-dc transformers for taking 90-100 volts and coverting to 12 volts for accessories like lights,phone,gps,whatever about 1 inch squarephasor=transformer.jpg
 
Dimpirate, go with the white bros, the flat tripple clamp on top is what you want or you will have to use some head tube spacers like Rod did to get the clearance needed for turning without the clamp hitting the frame. The only concern took look at with the white bros is the bottom tripple clamp clearing the fram when turning. The zocks open bath are also nice though, I have set on the Bomber and like it more than the RST that came on it. 3 months ago they were going for 799.00 from Jenson USA and now they are 649.00. But if you plan on going big with your Phasor, the white bros is better.

Rick
 
Trackman417 said:
Alrighty Korpin. Somebody may have found the motor you were talking about.
Is this what you were talking about?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46907
Click to expand...


YES! that looks like one I saw....also heard of regular crystalyte motors with aluminum stators coming out ...the weight he mentions seems high UNLESS there is a lot of copper in there...HPS opened one up and I was disappointed the stator was not very wide even though the aluminum body IS very wide but maybe that was a prototype and it looks like there is more room for copper so more winds for more torque or THICKER wires for more amps?..is that right?..wonder how much they are???
 
wanna take my bike out today....its a 90 volt system but it is 100 at full charge...what would be the appropiate low voltage cutoff for lithium batteries?
 
Assuming you have a 24s battery pack, then you have 24 cells *3.7 Volts per cell = 88.8 Volts nominal.
At full charge of 4.2 Volts per cell you have 24cells * 4.2 Volts per cell = 100.8 Volts hot off the charger.
If you choose a cutoff voltage of say 3.3 Volts per cell, they your cutoff voltage will be 24 cells * 3.3 Volts per cell = 79.2 Volts LVC
 
80 volts is what I'm using for my LVC on 24s. I won't let my pack get below 3.6 per sell on discharge but while using it under amp load it will drop below that. Now go get out and get that ride in then post the video.....

Tom
 
korpin said:
wanna take my bike out today....its a 90 volt system but it is 100 at full charge...what would be the appropiate low voltage cutoff for lithium batteries?
Click to expand...

Dpearce provided you with some great guidelines. I would keep your lvc @89 volts and drop to 87 volts after your pack has been broken in. Figure 20 charge cycles. Having said that, the most important thing you can do while riding is monitor your watt comsumption. I don't run lipos yet, but I have researched the shit out of them. Almost all of the people I have spoken with who have used Lipos successfully agree on one thing, never ever discharge your battery more than 90% of watt capacity. Follow this like scripture. That doesn't mean you should use 90% every ride either because if you do that it will cut the charge cycles life span down quickly. The common opinion of everyone I talked with about lipos say discharging lipo batteries to 80% of watt capacity is the best way to go. Most agreed by not consuming the last 20% out of a lipo battery's capacity extends the usable life of the battery immensely compared to going down to the last 10%. Its that significant. I dont know what your battery capacity is but for simple math, here is an example of what I am talking about: 100 volt pack with 10AH capacity. 100x10= 1000 watts hours capicity. If you follow the 80/20 guideline, you will have 800 usable watts of energy. So figure out what your pack is in watts capacity (Volts x Amps), multiply that number by .2 and take the answer to that number and subtract it from your battery's gross watts capacity, the answer you get will be the number in watts of energy consumption you idealy don't want to exceede. Post a ride report when you can/

Rick
 
well here is my display after about 30 miles started at 100 volts...turned power off and on a few times with stops top speed was 38 mph at a limit of 25 amps current not sure if I am in correct range of discharge
 

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Reseda bikes and trikes came up with this solution for chain coming off when in bigger rear sproket:they moved front sproket to INSIDE beautiful! This,in combination with wider 150 swingarm allows me to use 9 wheel cassette just have to make sure not to backspin on bigggest gear ONLY all others are fine!....probably will not matter when I go to bigger motor maybe the crown? MAY go to 46 or 48 front so I can assist motor at higher speeds limited to 18-23 mph now after that my sproket just freewheels but need to test on some wicked hills first
 

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dpearce said:
Assuming you have a 24s battery pack, then you have 24 cells *3.7 Volts per cell = 88.8 Volts nominal.
At full charge of 4.2 Volts per cell you have 24cells * 4.2 Volts per cell = 100.8 Volts hot off the charger.
If you choose a cutoff voltage of say 3.3 Volts per cell, they your cutoff voltage will be 24 cells * 3.3 Volts per cell = 79.2 Volts LVC
Click to expand...
thanks!...was figuring 80 in my head
 
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