E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Is this normal?

Seems like the swingarm fastening is wider than the frame slot

It will go in, the openings are 1.25" and the width of the swingarm where it attaches is 1.25", so even .005" of powdercoat will give you trouble. Here is how I have done it, Try shaving some powdercoat down with a razor blade where it interferes on the frame, and on the swingarm. Then cover the shock tabs on the swingarm with a rag, and tap it there with a rubber mallet or something similar towards the frame until it goes in and the bole hole starts to line up. Then use a punch / screwdriver / anything to make the bolt hole and swingarm bearings concentric, then tap the pivot bolt in. Make sure it is good and concentric before putting the pivot bolt in, with the sharp edge of the shoulder bolt it doesn't really self align, it should be aligned before.

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korpin said:
dimpirate said:
rodney get em spoked up! nice buid david like the wheels, charge balance on of setup looks great!
so good thing is things are coming together, have almost all components some in mail,
heres some pics of progress
WOW LOVE those wheels! will go back on forum and get brand of rims tires but wondering how much do they weigh?...look heavy
on an off topic,does anybody know why sometimes photos post but other times they show as link?

Korpin, those are Prowheel racing Yamaha Playbike rims 19x1.4. The rims dont weigh much, about an ounce more than the bombers rims. The 2.75-19 SR244 should weigh around 8.5 maybe 9 pounds each not including tubes. Add a pound for regular non heavy duty tubes. Dimpirate please confirm this when you can. Didnt see your question earlier, at 3mm, my spokes are between 9 and 8 guage according to the AWG MM conversion chart. Sorry to hear about your crank arms being incorrect, what were they supposed to be?
 
I have ordered my spokes today cut to 107mm. 10 gauge with a nipple 5.8mm. So just hope it works.

Insider did you need to file off the power coating for the swing arm to fit or did it pull into position as I suggested.
 
Rod, that should be fine. My calculations based on the measurements you provided compared to what I needed for the 5404 came out to 107mm so 108mm give you that extra 1mm of tolerance. The 17 inch rim I laced to the 5404 was the easiest to true I have ever had. Once all of the spokes were in place and tighteng to tought tension, it took my only 5 minutes to true. My 19 took about an hour and then I had to grind spokes. So this should be great first wheel build for you Rod. If you don't have a truing stand, get your self some rubber bands, and two pens or pensils and use your swingarm like I did. It will work.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Korpin, those are Prowheel racing Yamaha Playbike rims 19x1.4. The rims dont weigh much, about an ounce more than the bombers rims. The 2.75-19 SR244 should weigh around 8.5 maybe 9 pounds each not including tubes. Add a pound for regular non heavy duty tubes. Dimpirate please confirm this when you can. Didnt see your question earlier, at 3mm, my spokes are between 9 and 8 guage according to the AWG MM conversion chart. Sorry to hear about your crank arms being incorrect, what were they supposed to be?
were supposed to be 170mm because that is the only size that goes with easy shift levers....wow 20 pounds for wheels is a bit much will have to look for another solution want to use that weight on motor and batteries trying to stay under 90 at 83 now but adding schlumph,a bigger mtor and perhaps more batteries
 
Rix said:
I also came across this image of my simulation of the heat transfer before adding cooling fins, which indicates a good location for them. Again this is assuming convective heat transfer dissipating from the outside of the case, and conductive heat transfer from the windings to the oil to the case. If there were no oil, this would look quite different, with the hottest spots near the axle where the dominant conductive heat transfer would be happening. In fact I think that is what the first image I posted above represents.

Dave,
Based on that thermo snapshot, you are correct about placing heatsink fins where you did, I could see how that could have a huge effect on heat quinch in the hub. I think Oil Cooling for geared is got to be the answer. Not just because the oil will transfer heat away from the stator to the shell but als because the gears will have an oil bath cushion in them, this will improve life immensly.

Rodney, nice addition to your collection. I really like the cromotors. May have to get one. Is methods still making the 150 amp controller for them, or did he/they finally go to the sinsodial (sp?) controller as the permenant replacement?

Rick

No he's stopped selling them Rick. He sold them all to http://www.jozztek.com/shop/

After checking they're all sold. I'm not sure how methods sinusoidal controller projects going but it will be a matter of wait and see. Maybe Luke's helping him.
 
....wow 20 pounds for wheels is a bit much will have to look for another solution want to use that weight on motor and batteries trying to stay under 90 at 83 now but adding schlumph,a bigger mtor and perhaps more batteries

Korpin, it is heavy by bicycle standards, but running front and rear 24x3" duro razorbacks and heavy duty downhill tubes on my bomber (before relacing to cycle rim) with two Mr Tuffy Tire liners and 6oz of green slime per tube, the tubes and tires came in at over 11# total for the set, and for the 26x3.00 Duro Razorback and heavy duty tubes and tire liner, add another pound to the that. So I was at 5.8# pounds per tire/tube on my Bomber. With the 2.5-19 Bridgestone M23 knobbie tire I was running with a regular cycle tube, I was only at 7# pound total. Thats just over a pound heavier than the 24" duro Razorback with HD tube and mr tuffy tire liner and slime. And with the Bridestone, I didn't have to slime tubes, or use a Mr. Tuffy tire liner at all which is why the weight was able to keep the weight down. Now some folks would say that if I didn't run HD tubes, slime, and tire liner, the difference would be much more significant than 1.2#. And they would be correct. But with these bikes, Phasors and Bombers alike, I dont want to worry about changing tires and running barely adequate rubber for the speeds and rocky terrain I am riding. The tires and wheels I have been recommending for people that have asked on behalf of their hi powered builds isn't just for durability, its for safety. Dimpirate is running some big beefy 2.75-19 Shinko SR244 right now. Each tire is rated for over 400 pounds load capcity and 94 MPH. As long as over inflation isn't occuring or picking up a nail, he will never have a blow out or tire failure like I have with several Razorbacks on the rear of my Bomber. And to boot, If he ever switched to the knobby set up I was running, he will easily drop 5-6 pounds off his wheels. On another note: Coming up on a year now for my bomber, I can say that the front 24x3" Duro Razorback running slime and Mr. Tuffy tire liner hasn't failed me yet. So based on my real world road and offroad experience, running DH MTB tires and tube on ebikes is viable and more than barely adequate. Only the rears are holding up. So as far as weight and durabiltiy are concerned, running a cycle rim/tire on the rear and the regular heavy duty DH hill wheels and tire on the front is probably the best of both worlds in terms of lighter weight and being durable enough. Not eveyone will agree with this and for strictly road, smooth dirt road, and nice single track, cycle rims and tires are over kill for Ebikes.

Rod, checked out Jozztek, went right to their web page with the Alltrax controllers. 72volts @ 450 amps, now thats a controller. I think these controller were set up for the Agni's but does anyone know if Alltrax makes one of these controllers that would be compatable with the Cromos or 54xx? Not that Im interesed in running in running 33KW :shock: through my 5404 but these controller would be super tough and over engineered for running 100 amps/8KW or less through my 5404 which I am thinking of doing. I went to the website, doesn't say anything about compatability with hub motors.

Rick
 
Rix said:
....wow 20 pounds for wheels is a bit much will have to look for another solution want to use that weight on motor and batteries trying to stay under 90 at 83 now but adding schlumph,a bigger mtor and perhaps more batteries

Korpin, it is heavy by bicycle standards, but running front and rear 24x3" duro razorbacks and heavy duty downhill tubes on my bomber (before relacing to cycle rim) with two Mr Tuffy Tire liners and 6oz of green slime per tube, the tubes and tires came in at over 11# total for the set, and for the 26x3.00 Duro Razorback and heavy duty tubes and tire liner, add another pound to the that. So I was at 5.8# pounds per tire/tube on my Bomber. With the 2.5-19 Bridgestone M23 knobbie tire I was running with a regular cycle tube, I was only at 7# pound total. Thats just over a pound heavier than the 24" duro Razorback with HD tube and mr tuffy tire liner and slime. And with the Bridestone, I didn't have to slime tubes, or use a Mr. Tuffy tire liner at all which is why the weight was able to keep the weight down. Now some folks would say that if I didn't run HD tubes, slime, and tire liner, the difference would be much more significant than 1.2#. And they would be correct. But with these bikes, Phasors and Bombers alike, I dont want to worry about changing tires and running barely adequate rubber for the speeds and rocky terrain I am riding. The tires and wheels I have been recommending for people that have asked on behalf of their hi powered builds isn't just for durability, its for safety. Dimpirate is running some big beefy 2.75-19 Shinko SR244 right now. Each tire is rated for over 400 pounds load capcity and 94 MPH. As long as over inflation isn't occuring or picking up a nail, he will never have a blow out or tire failure like I have with several Razorbacks on the rear of my Bomber. And to boot, If he ever switched to the knobby set up I was running, he will easily drop 5-6 pounds off his wheels. On another note: Coming up on a year now for my bomber, I can say that the front 24x3" Duro Razorback running slime and Mr. Tuffy tire liner hasn't failed me yet. So based on my real world road and offroad experience, running DH MTB tires and tube on ebikes is viable and more than barely adequate. Only the rears are holding up. So as far as weight and durabiltiy are concerned, running a cycle rim/tire on the rear and the regular heavy duty DH hill wheels and tire on the front is probably the best of both worlds in terms of lighter weight and being durable enough. Not eveyone will agree with this and for strictly road, smooth dirt road, and nice single track, cycle rims and tires are over kill for Ebikes.

Rod, checked out Jozztek, went right to their web page with the Alltrax controllers. 72volts @ 450 amps, now thats a controller. I think these controller were set up for the Agni's but does anyone know if Alltrax makes one of these controllers that would be compatable with the Cromos or 54xx? Not that Im interesed in running in running 33KW :shock: through my 5404 but these controller would be super tough and over engineered for running 100 amps/8KW or less through my 5404 which I am thinking of doing. I went to the website, doesn't say anything about compatability with hub motors.

Rick


Good reply Rick and yes i started to type up something yesterday about the pros and cons of motor cycle rims.

But I decided not to post it. But I'm very happy with your reply Rick.

Had a puncher on the weekend on the rear and its unnerving especially when cornering.
 
I got a flat to yesterday, just as I was coming back from 15 mile ride from work, what a bummer. That's with 2ply hookworms, DH tube and rim strips. Looks like a nail or something of the sorts though couldn't pull it out.
Makes me feel real good about getting 4ply dot tires. Should be arriving today can't wait!!

Rodney did you ever get to try kickstand how did it do with phasor weight??.
 
dimpirate said:
I got a flat to yesterday, just as I was coming back from 15 mile ride from work, what a bummer. That's with 2ply hookworms, DH tube and rim strips. Looks like a nail or something of the sorts though couldn't pull it out.
Makes me feel real good about getting 4ply dot tires. Should be arriving today can't wait!!

Rodney did you ever get to try kickstand how did it do with phasor weight??.


Dimpirate the weight was too much and I took it off before I changed the flat. Maybe if I screwed it in with locktite high strength it may have worked.
 
Thanks Rod, I was just tyring to point out that sometimes weight shouldn't be the number 1 concern when placing it above form, function, and safety, no offense to korpin though, just identifying the positive sides of the weight difference.

Dimpirate, I think a clamp on kickstand would be great and there are more than a few out there. The only thing you may need to do is get some 18g aluminum sheet and custom cut shims to shim the clamp because most motorcycle kickstands are designed for a slightly larger swingarm tube wise than the Phasor.

Rick
 
Ryanthelion, thats great news and welcome to the Ebike club. Cant wait to see the build. Keep us posted :D . Sure pretty in all white.
 
Doing a rough fitting of my 4S Hardcase LiPo packs into the frame. 24x Hardcase packs fit with ease, and if externally mounting your controller, you could easily fit 30x packs. 24x packs gets me 100v20ah, 30 packs would achieve 100v25ah. I will be adding some foam sheets to help with rattling and to make everything very snug.
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Deutch420 said:
Doing a rough fitting of my 4S Hardcase LiPo packs into the frame. 24x Hardcase packs fit with ease, and if externally mounting your controller, you could easily fit 30x packs. 24x packs gets me 100v20ah, 30 packs would achieve 100v25ah.
Wow. Lipolishous
 
Put zombies controller in the phasor today and it fits well, also put shock on the bike and its working well. :p

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Ryanthelion, your Phasor is going to rip. Wont be able to keep that front wheel down :shock: , as I learned a short while back, zombies controller are 150amp monsters and make real fast ebikes. What are doing wheel/tire wise? Whats your prospective power set up going to be? Comin out of nowhere with this gnarly awesom build, awesome.

Rodney, I have recently put together component parts lists for a few Phasor builders. One of the gents is looking at what appears to be a new condtion fork on Ebay. Its a dual crown fork but the head tube has been cut, and I am not sure if its over all length is going to be long enough for the Phasor frame. As a general rule I have followed over the years when mounting forks on bicycles, the fork tube needs to be at least a couple of inches (55mm) or longer than the head tube length to account for the head set, spacer and stem to be mounted. I know on your blue Phasor that your fork tube is much much longer than your head tube and you have a few shims below the head set to compensate for that. But if someone was mounting the fork as low as possible and the tube was long enough for the head set and couple of spacers and stem to mount the bars to, what would the over all minimal length need to be for a fork tube going onto the Phasor frame?

Question for eveyone, one potential Phasor builder from the Seattle area recently PMd me about components for a Phasor build. During our conversation, I learned that he doesn't have alot of experience with EVs or Lipos. Since I don't know much about the electrcical tech stuff, I would like to refer him to an Ebike shop in the Seattle area. I have PM a couple of folk and nobody has responded. Does anyone know of a shop in the Seattle area I can refer this guy to for tech assistance for a future Phasor build? If he can get the assistance at a reasonable rate, he may be building two Phasors.

Rick
 
Nice to see your builds ryanthelion and deutch420 (bad ass color)!
I'm at the bike shop :lol:
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So continuing on that last pic. I won't be able to put in small spacer to close of dropout but I will put bolt back in. I think it should be ok... Right?
Dpearce got any input on this?
Ended up using 3 washers per side stretched swingarm out maybe 2mm
So brakes lines getting cut to length gonna pedal this bike out of here tonight yay!!!
Start placing batteries tonight.
Waiting on one last thing Icecube battery harness hoping he got fuse he was waiting for and was able to overnight! If not one more day.... :cry:
 
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