E-Trike Project

[AussieJester]

OK Mr Methods i believe i have isolated the problem, its the battery isolation switch im using. I have now found 99% of the time, if i turn it on i get the error code, if i immediately turn the switch off the LED continues to flash for several seconds, if i turn the key back on juuuust as the last flash has died down the LED will turn on constant and the speed controller works as per it should. I can hear a little "arch" in the switch for lack of better word when i turn the switch on, the LED gives a very very slight 'blip' of colour before going into its code routine...NOW...question MR Methods...OR any of you other electronic geniuses, how i fix this? I could leave the thing on all the time and fix a key switch tumbler style to that little wire you had me connect to the J1 plug that 'switches' the controller on but thats not really the course of action i wish to take...GOOD NEWS though i have hooked it up correctly (I never doubted your destruction's for minute ) and the controller ain't forked...Doesn't look like ill be Gansta 8) any time soon :-( the cable is definitely a no go even when the controller is working correctly....Perhaps we can just say i accessed the software 8) LOL... If you have any more words of wisdom i would be happy to hear them buddy...Or from anyone else, don't be shy...

Cheers mate

Kim

 

[chuck]

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc120-046-A_TN010-Contactor-Fuse-Diode-Lessons-Learned.pdf

The pre-charge circuit draws little or no power. Its
purpose is to maintain the capacitors at battery pack
voltage so when the contactor is closed, no arcing
occurs. Resistor value is determined by pack voltage.


12V-36V pack needs a 250 Ohm 10W resistor
48V pack needs a 470 Ohm 10W resistor
72V pack needs a 1000 Ohm 10W resistor

This resistor goes across the terminals of the battery isolation switch.

Just read this whole thread yesterday. Wish I had read it earlier, I would have steered you to the alltrax controllers. Kelly controllers may cost a little less, apparently, reading here that they have great customer support. I don't know how well alltrax does in the customer support dept. because the alltrax controllers work out of the box.

It seems to me, reading here on this forum, the v is for voltage forum, and the north texas electric vehicle forum, that almost every kelly controller has had some issues.

Great looking bike!
Look a lot better with one of your local ladies sitting on it!!

chuck

 

[TPA]

AHHH!

so since he is not using the pre charge circuit, the surge produced when the key is turned trips the codes. If he waits until the codes die down and turns on the key at that time, the capacitors are still at least partially charged and allow the controller to work properly?

So, only one resistor between here and success?!?!

 

[methods]

Hook up 2 switches.

Cut the small red wire and put a switch in line. (or just twist and untwist the wires for a test)
Turn on the MAIN power. This will charge up the main caps.
THEN turn on the power to the red wire.

The problem is occurring, like you expected, because you are turning them on at the same time and getting some sort of race condition.
The internal fault you are seeing is probably from a control voltage that is out of spec. (reading is taken while caps charge = low voltage)


ALSO:

You do not need a computer with a serial cable.
You will buy the $20 converter from Kelly and plug that right into the RS232 to USB cable that you already bought:

Computer -> USB-to-RS232 conveter -> Kelly converter box -> Kelly controller



Now lets not get all angry with Kelly. :lol:
To be fair we did not hook the circuit up as they described.
Sounds like it is our fault to me.

For the final test, turn the main power on (thick wires) and turn the power to the small red wire on and off.
I suspect that each time it will turn on and off fine.

As far as Pre-Charging:

Precharging is good but not strictly necessary. That arch you hear will destroy your switch after a long enough time line. I precharge my circuit but, seeing as how you are frustrated and want to get on the road, dont worry for now. Just separate out those switches.

-methods

 

[methods]

AHHH!

so since he is not using the pre charge circuit, the surge produced when the key is turned trips the codes. If he waits until the codes die down and turns on the key at that time, the capacitors are still at least partially charged and allow the controller to work properly?

So, only one resistor between here and success?!?!

I dont think so.

The Kelly current limit works on current to the motor, not current from the battery.
I suspect that the error is caused by the voltage droop while the capacitors charge
Adding a pre-charge circuit would probably make the problem go away, but not due to eliminating over current.

Now, I sure wish you were right because I would like to have both motor current AND battery current control.

-methods

 

[methods]

I don't know how well alltrax does in the customer support dept. because the alltrax controllers work out of the box.
It seems to me, reading here on this forum, the v is for voltage forum, and the north texas electric vehicle forum, that almost every kelly controller has had some issues.

Thats not a fair argument Chuck.
Kelly controllers dont have a problem right out of the box.
People implementing kelly controllers have a problem.

Judging the number of "problems" you read about is not an indicator of quality.
If you read that 45,000 people had problems using the WINDOWS operating system and only 2 people had problems using the "BRAND X" operating system does that mean BRAND X is better?

Maybe.
Maybe it just means that a lot more people use WINDOWS so a greater number have trouble.

On ES many people use Xlyte.
Many people have success
Many people have problems.
Does that mean it is better?
Worse?
It just means that more people use it here.

I dont personally know anyone using an Alltrax so I would guess that the number of complaints you see is more a function of the number of people using Kelly vs Alltrax.

-methods

 

[methods]

I went looking for reported problems on Alltrax and Kelly.

Kelly produces a full line of Brushed and Brushless controllers
Most complaints were due to problems with Brushless controllers where there are many more things that can go wrong
- Phase wires
- Hall wires
- hall vs phase wires

As far as I can tell Alltrax only sells DC controllers which are dead simple.

Also, regarding Kelly and problems, how many people start a thread to say "I hooked up my controller and it worked" ?

Sorry to beat this subject to death but I dont like a good product being bashed unfairly.
My dealings with Kelly have been great and they deserve to have a good name.
I agree that they need work on documentation and they could implement their error schema better.

-methods

 

[AussieJester]

Cheers all for the input...

The Altrax controllers i did look at, they look nice and simple but DAMN are they expensive forgeeeeet it...

Methods...No we didnt hookz him up as per the destruction but we did get it roght as it does work
If i had popped in the switch on the lil wire like you suggested in the first place i wouldn't have had any dramas i imagine

Thats not a fair argument Chuck.
Kelly controllers dont have a problem right out of the box.
People implementing kelly controllers have a problem.

hehehe truer words have not been spoken... I dunno though Methods, the documentation isn't that bad really, i have seen ALOT worse from asian countries, seems to lose alot in translation sometimes...or more to the point the translators aren't up to scratch alot of the times LoL

I came out this morning and switched it on then off, soon as the LED stops flashing completely turn it back on it works everytime...Im actually quite content (for now) to leave it exactly as it is, if nothing else will make it near impossible for someone else to jump on and ride off on hehehe...I will in final build pop a key switch on the lil wire on the J1 plug, i have two switches from the old scooter and one from TNC scooters i bought so no more expense...

Since i have already forked out for the cable i guess the adapter would be wise move 8) I wanna be Gansta too

Thanks for the persistence in helping Methods, I know it is painful sometimes LoL I owe you BIG matey... Now get some lights on that structure of yours out the front so the neighbors appreciate the skillz you have hehehe ...

Cheers fellas...i can sitz back and watch Australia V Seth Efrika in the 3rd Cricket test today knowing my trike is again full operational...i might even looks about for some Konion cells now DOOOOOOC builds me a pack you good thang loL

Kim

p.s Chuck...i'll see what i can dooz about getting a local lady perched up on the trike for a few happy snaps..be easy once its 'Pub ready" with the SLAS unfortunately the pub is a pub to far...any of the local girls would be happy to pose for a pic on it though we are a friendly bunch us Aussies

 

[AussieJester]

I took a few pics when i was doing the wring of the Kelly Controller thought i best post them up...

You will prolly spot i decided to pop in a second switch too Methods works just like a bought one now mate spot on I will make up a nice battery box out of aluminum but for now this wooden 'cover' will suffice....

I have a lil mod to do on the springer forks tomorrow morning before it heats up (requires some cutting and welding) Then i can go for a hoon see how she goes...

Thanks again for all your help Methods your a champ mate

Kim

 

[methods]

Man, you do better finish work than I do.
Zip ties are about as neat as I get.

I have an idea for for eliminating the second switch.
If you feel like tinkering, it may or may not work.
I know that using 2 switches is a bitch. . .

If you are on a budget, forget the converter.
You dont really need it. . . It is just gangster to have it.

-methods

 

[AussieJester]

Man, you do better finish work than I do.
Zip ties are about as neat as I get.

Will be all cable sleeved when i do final build Methods, i ran out of sleeving hence why its not all done hehee.

I have an idea for for eliminating the second switch. If you feel like tinkering, it may or may not work. I know that using 2 switches is a bitch. . .

Firez away mate letz hear your idea I actually dont mind the second switch though TBH..i will replace it with a key switch eventually i didnt now as it wont fit on the wooden cover no room underneath for it ...

. . . It is just gangster to have it.

MUST HAVE IT...me wantz to be Gangsta too 8)

 

[Bobocop]

The plan is to have the frame fabricated and simply attach the trike conversion kit-->

I have ordered and am awaiting delivery of from ChoppersUS

Nice work AussieJester,
I was thinking of ordering one of these trike kit and was wondering if it has given you any problems, does it keep up with that big motor you have ?

 

[AussieJester]

Cheers mate...

No..the trike conversion has been faultless..aside from grip hehehe...i have as you prolly read hooked up a Kelly controller

METHODS...i thought brushed motors made a noise like a reeeeeal horrible noise..i thought it was the motor ..i now
know it wasnt! My trike is now DEAD silent as far as motor/speed controller...the old speed controller made a WEEEEEER noise under load...i thought it was the motor...i have to take a flick of it...IM IMPRESSED MR Methods VERY Impressed only noise i have now is chain noise...Actually...tiz thanks to TPA for the link to Kelly site but Mr Methods for gettin it workin...Methods...road out front of my house...go out of drive way give it a fist full of throttle she arches up the rear tire i fuckin love it its like sooooooo much more punch than the other controller Soon as i get the loooong cables and 3inch rear tires i have ordered from ChoppersUS to hook up my gears im running 100 meters i swear it will do it under 8 seconds.. UP HILL hahhahaa go the gears


p.s after several 130amp 'launches' and runs around the block the controller didnt change temp ...

p.s.s RE: Kelly customer service... my second email was answered within 12 hours...

 

[methods]

I know what you mean about the power. . .
Going from a 72V 40A xlyte to a 100V 220A kelly was night and day for me

I have so much power off the line that I rarely go full throttle for fear of breaking components.

Glad to hear things are going well

btw: I didnt do anything on your project other than confuse you once and confirm your suspicions the second.
You made your own design decisions and they look to have come out great.


oh yea. . .
Lets see how you feel when you realize that your range is now half :lol:
All that power tends to go to your head.
If you are like me you will want to burn rubber off of every line to show people how bad-ass your bike is
30 mile range turns into 5 quick

How is the motor doing?
Getting hot?

My Kelly has never even gotten warm to the touch

Now. . . That brushed motor is what... 60% efficient?
Imagine how it would feel if you had another 20%
I see brushless in your future. . .

-methods

 

[AussieJester]

I have so much power off the line that I rarely go full throttle for fear of breaking components.

Theres only one thing for it then Methods MOD IT till it wont break hehehe...can't
be Gangsta 8) if your have to be fairy like on the throttle buddy

btw: I didnt do anything on your project other than confuse you once and confirm your suspicions the second. You made your own design decisions and they look to have come out great.

hrm maybe so but without your input the controller would still be sitting in the box (or sold) and
the trike would have a 48cc ICE motor in it which would be ashame, i forget after not riding it for awhile how much quicker
it is than my brothers 48cc bicycle, the trike smokes it off the line and is over 20km/hr faster top end LoL..
the range issue we shall usher by without mention hehehe...

oh yea. . .
Lets see how you feel when you realize that your range is now half :lol:
All that power tends to go to your head.
If you are like me you will want to burn rubber off of every line to show people how bad-ass your bike is
30 mile range turns into 5 quick

HAHAHA too true...thing is i only really need it to go 5-10km to get to shops/pub and back so if i can cain the hell out of it and still make it there and back im good to go IF not MORE BATTERIES till i can, one things for certain I WONT be taking it easy I WILL be riding it full throttle everywhere, otherwise its simply no fun, I've had many years of motorcycle riding/racing Methods there are only two speeds flat out and stop

How is the motor doing?
Getting hot?

I dunno mate i must have got lucky with the motor from what i have heard from a few, it never gets 'Hot'
luke warm at most after a thrashing up hills...the controller same as yours matey cold when i return. It
is probably a bit overkill for my setup 120amp constant and 200amp peak... i do get up over the 100 amp regularly
off the mark and up the BIGGER hills here but when up and running shes well under 40amp

Now. . . That brushed motor is what... 60% efficient?
Imagine how it would feel if you had another 20%
I see brushless in your future. . .

uuuhm...i dont think they are quite that bad are they ? (efficiency wise) up closer to 80%
i think (someone jump in and correct me if im wrong here) But yes i would have preferred a brushless
setup, i was initially going to buy the Cyclone 1000watt setup but the price put me off
was near 5 times more expensive than what i initially bought, thankfully Safe pointed me in the direction of TNC Scooters when i first joined up here yupz.. im happy with the motor i have now its a star for the price ~120 bucks i paid for it ;-P But yup Methods i also see brushless in the future in the form of a couple of rc motors how boutz one for each wheel hehee (wouldnt be counting out seeing them in a tig welded ali frame either been in touch with Kerr Engineering regarding having a frame made...just to make 'other Doc' hella jealous hehehe..should be nice to him he's not well is he ..get well soon Doc ) Themz i have experience with used them in my rc helis wont have a problem hooking the ESC up at least LoL.......alternatively the etek is sexy : wink :

I will be playing with the gearing some more i picked up a 9 tooth sprocket for the motor last order from TNC Scooters
i run a 9 tooth now BUT using #25 chain the new sprocket is for a bike chain which opens up the possibility of using a larger
sprocket on the crank, im using max #25 size now 80 tooth i think it is... If i go larger here ill get even more torque, will then make 3 and 4 gear a 'usable' option....not to mention make it even easier to spin the rear tire hehehe...which reminds me i havent heard back from Alan at ChoppersUS i paid for an order last week and havent heard back..i have 3 inch tires )wanted the 4.25 rims and tires to match but they are no longer available Alan tellz me :-( ) 10 extra long brake cables and 20 foot of stainless steel braided brake housing coming ...will have the gears setup and working before long

Me

p.s whats your advice for battery solution Methods? I know you use the Lipo how they working for you? I was set on Lifepo4s until i realized how many amps i pull, they would be useless for me with there 60amp cuttoff... I was tossing up to get some packs from Doc (the Konions) but the idea of 160 cells for a 48v ~17ah pack puts me off that idea HOWEVER the plus is no BMS to worry about ... I like the look of the Headway cells but again the bms puts me off...what would you suggest Mr Methods SIR?

 

[TPA]

It really sounds like you are limited to Lipo or Nicads to get all the power you want.

If you are still interested in tubes you could go Nicad, but it would take a serious load of tubes to get 84V with enough Ah to go to the pub and back.

Safe uses a combo of Nicad and lead, but it sounds like you got a bigger appetite for electrons than he does.

I told you before that if you learn the electronics side of this hobby, you will be the man...
So I say get on the horn with Matt and learn about Lipo. The startup costs would be similar to lifepo4 starting at 48V. If you plan well, you could build onto the pack over time. Start at 55.5V, charger, bms and add cells when you want to up the voltage. They can deliver the power, provided enough juice to get you there and back, and still have a little leftover to show off while you are there. Don't get more gangsta than that 8)

 

[AussieJester]

It really sounds like you are limited to Lipo or Nicads to get all the power you want.

So I say get on the horn with Matt and learn about Lipo. Don't get more gangsta than that 8)

Lipos i know well buddy im an ex RC Heli flier myself and having seen my chopper flame up in mid flight due to a ruptured 22 volt lipo pack it puts my off using them on an ebike... I cant go over 56 volts can i? the Kelly controller lists max volts at 56 it will shut down anything over i assumed? Me wantz to be Gangsta 8) with a 48v setup i hope this is possible... LOL so maybe ill have to hit up an army surplus for an old amo case and fillz it with Lipos hehehe ;-P I have spoken to DocBass about Konion cells i thought they might be an option, doc worked out the following for a 40km commute-->

if you plan to do like 40km no pedaling at let say 25mph with few low hill you will need around 20Wh per km.. at 48V that's 20Wh/48V = 0.42Ah per km so you would need 0.42Ah time 40km = 16.8Ah. and the total wh of your pack is 40km x 20Wh=800Wh

Now every battery pack have 8 good cells inside out of 10. every cells can give you 5Wh so you will need 160 of these cells.

I sale the pack 18$ each wich give you (8 x 5Wh=40Wh) so it's around 0.40$per Wh.

Granted i did neglect to inform him i regularly pull over 120amps, its not that i WANT to you understand TPA its i HAVE to to get up the damn hillz here LoL ok ok ok...so i could prolly crawl up them at a moderate speed instead of 40km/hr but wheres the fun in that, no way to ride if attempting Gangsta status LOL..Suffice to say I was happy with the price Doc sells the faulty Makita packs for and no need for a BMS built into the pack is a PLUS...one less thing to fail and leave me stranded on the side of the road :-S

A123 is another option albeit a bloody expensive one... Unless i go with Docs Konions i will have to stick to the old knackered SLAs a lil longer if i kitted the bike with A123s i8t would leave me financially ...well up shit creek basically... LoL and i HATE being broke!! never again... If Methods convinces me Lipos are too Gangsta not to use i might bend and go that way will be kicking myself i sold my 380 dollar lipo charger though grrrr...

FramkG Motor wires are fine mate...The TNC Scooter plastic connectors didnt however fair quite as well, they fused together so I have replaced them with..well...nothing LoL...everything is soldered now no plastic connectors at all and i have some nice wire Matt (1000watt) picked up for me thats more than capable to handle the power

Cheers for input fellas

Kim

 

[safe]

80 cells for $103

http://cgi.ebay.com/80-NiCd-Sub-C-2200mAh-Batteries-for-PowerTools-Flat-Top_W0QQitemZ230299006951QQihZ013QQcategoryZ40975QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

And these NiCads are SubC with the high discharge rates (9C) and they last forever, so if you are "cheap" (or as we call it these days "frugal") it makes more sense to snap up this bargain while it lasts.

PVC tubes cost next to nothing, the spring to hold them together is cheap (75 cents) and the copper pennies take a little work to make right, but it's not too hard. Any copper would work as a conductor.

And the best part...

No worries about low voltage or balancing while charging.

NiCads are very hard to break, so if you want to go with "idiot proof" batteries this is the way to go. My next bike will use 240 of these cells in 24 tubes. There will be 12 sets of 24 volts which I use cheap chargers to charge. (about $25 each) The NiCads have worked great so far (on the old bike) and the solderless tubes have not given any problems after a thousand miles or more.

 

[AussieJester]

80 cells for $103

http://cgi.ebay.com/80-NiCd-Sub-C-2200mAh-Batteries-for-PowerTools-Flat-Top_W0QQitemZ230299006951QQihZ013QQcategoryZ40975QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

I do like the price thats for sure!

NiCads are very hard to break, so if you want to go with "idiot proof" batteries this is the way to go.

hehee...wellz if they are breakable im sure i will find out

My next bike will use 240 of these cells in 24 tubes. There will be 12 sets of 24 volts which I use cheap chargers to charge. (about $25 each) The NiCads have worked great so far (on the old bike) and the solderless tubes have not given any problems after a thousand miles or more.

Good to hear the tubes are still working well, i very much liked the setup when you first put it together safe...

I have actually contacted that seller in the past to ask ig they would ship to Australia, they do I forget the price for freight now but i dont remember being shocked by it so my guess is it was reasonable.

What would be your recommendation Mr Safe? How many cells for the trike in what configuration (using ONLY NiCads not SLAs and NiCads as your setup is) OH...and whats the weight like? I would think at the least 160...??

Cheers safe

Kim

p.s whats the charger situation with Nicads im guessing a 'dedicated' NiCad charge is required one used on SLAs arent useable on NiCads? Have a link to the ones your using by chance Safe?

 

[safe]

What would be your recommendation Mr Safe? How many cells for the trike in what configuration
I would think at the least 160...??

whats the charger situation with Nicads im guessing a 'dedicated' NiCad charge is required

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Smart-Fast-Charger-for-19-2-24V-Battery-Pack_W0QQitemZ230297674197QQihZ013QQcategoryZ48618QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

These chargers are listed as 0.6A and 1.2A, but the text in the website is just old because they are now shipping their newer ones that do 1.0A and 1.5A.

I own six of these and they cost $20 each plus shipping.

160 cells would give you a range of about 20 miles which is fine, but you might as well spend the extra $100 and buy the extra 80 cells to make it 240 cells. The 240 cells should give a range of about 30 miles if you run efficiently.

So in the end it would be about:

$300 for the cells
$120 for six chargers. (or double that if you want to charge everything at once and not have to wait)

...and then whatever you need for shipping.

For cells that are supposed to last for 1000+ cycles and don't need a BMS that's a pretty good deal.

You should buy some extra's too so that when one cell goes bad (which seems not to be happening so far, but one day it will) you can swap it out. So maybe buy 80, 80 and 96. (16 spares)

http://cgi.ebay.com/96-NiCd-Sub-C-2200mAh-Batteries-for-PowerTools-Flat-Top_W0QQitemZ230299007143QQihZ013QQcategoryZ40975QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

 

[AussieJester]

Couple of things that concern me..

one...Weight...a "C" cell has the weight listed as 50g...240 of these PLUS
the plastic tubes, springs and copper/wiring is going to weigh a bit ...what sort
of weight is the pack you made for your $3 bike safe any idea? i don't
recall if it is mentioned in the #3 worklog...

Two....Chargers... I would have proffered a ONE charger solution. something like the
chargers shipped with Ping packs is this a possibility? The batteries it says can take a 3amp charge
i think thats what the output? the one i have here i use on the SLAs is 8amp...anywayz is this a possibility?

20 miles range is more than enough.... TBH 10miles would be adequate BUT keep in mind i have hills
The trip to local pub and larger shopping complex is no more than 8 kilometer round trip, thats all i need to be able to make
for now getting off the hill (and down to the 'burbs') isnt going to be a reality, i could get down ride around but i just cant see it making it back up the hill after that without spending ALOT on some high AH packs...

Sure as shit soon as i do buy a battery setup something new and cheaper will hit the shelfs :-S

Cheers again for info safe

Kim

 

[safe]

Couple of things that concern me..

one...Weight...

Two....Chargers...

The weight of 240 cells is 31 lbs plus the weight of the container which probably will add another 5 lbs. It's not LiFePO4 that's for sure, but it's about half the weight of SLA.

You could configure your cells to be in strings of 48 volts and that would cut down the number of chargers, but the whole idea is that the more chargers you use the more precision you get in recharging. The "weakest cell" defines the set, so if one cell is weak it will stop the whole set from charging any more. That's why you are supposed to match cell capacities in your cell sets.

I'll have 12 sets of 24 volts which means I hook up 6 sets first, charge them, then charge the second batch of 6 sets. A complete recharge should be possible in about an hour if you buy 12 chargers or two hours with 6 chargers.

Think of it this way...

If I ride 30 miles at 30 mph average it means that I will be on the bike for one hour riding flat out. It will take two hours to recharge (with 6 chargers) and then I can ride another full hour.

6 chargers charge at a rate of:

6 * 1.5 amps * 30 volts (peak) = 270 watts

A single 48 volt charger charging at 8 amps:

1 * 8 * 48 = 384 watts

...but NiCads can't be charged in parallel so it won't work.

I understand the desire for simplicity, but you end up needing to do some fancy things to get things to charge if you do it all with one charger. And in order to do such a thing you would need to have the larger "D" cells in a single string. (or maybe two) The "D" cells have low "C" discharge rates, so the whole thing sort of forces you down a path of logic to the solution I came to. The "many charger" solution gives the most precise charging for NiCads. (in theory 12V chargers would be even better)

If I really wanted fast charging (which I might) then I would buy more chargers and the maximum charging would be:

12 * 1.5 amps * 30 volts (peak) = 540 watts

...which is roughly 4.5 faster than my old SLA charger. :wink:

 

[AussieJester]

So we will be looking at 16 kilo...5 more than the equivalent in a Lifepo4 duct
tape pack...i have ~25kilo of SLAs so big improvement on those at least.

Whats happening with the trike ATM...

I have the trike's axle out at the moment im 'playing' with chain alignment
hard acceleration is randomly throwing the chain from the front sprocket
works perfect under 50amp but the added torque of 100plus amp sees the chain skip off
No idea why this has just started happening, well..thats not true i do know LoL the new speed controller is the culprit
Didnt do it when the other was fitted...didnt pull anywhere near as hard as it does now either hehehe...

What would be ideal is a 3 speed freewheel instead of the 6...im wondering
can i buy one of the 3 speed freewheels and exchange the 1st 2nd and 3rd gear on it for the larger tooth count
1st 2nd and 3rd gears of the 6 speed freewheel? this would allow me to slide the freewheel along the trikes rear axel
a tad more to the right thus lining the chain up just that little bit better, not possible now due to the width of the 6speed freewheel hitting the right side of the trikes rear axle housing ..if this could be accomplished the derailleur wouldnt have to work as hard keeping the chain aligned...forever something aint it....will be bullet proof when all said and done...i hope...

cheers for info anywayz safe...i shall give it some more thought
no HUGE hurry as the trike wont see massive use this time of the year we are in the height of soummer
its simply too freakin hot to stay outside for any length of time unless your in the water... :-S You guyz
have rain hail and snow keeping you e-bike-rideless..we have insanely hot temperatures LoL cant win

ME

 

[etard]

Kim,
Have you seen the deals on the Bosch 36 volt batteries on ebay? I am buying 4 batteries for $220, plus 2 chargers for $100. If you got 8 batteries that would give you 80 cells @ 2 ah each. You could build a 48v 12ah pack of Konions for about $450 plus the cost of charger. I don't know if this deal is valid in Australia though. I am keeping my packs intact, as 36 volts is ok for my needs. Nice chopper, when can I see a vid of some wheelies? 8)

 

[safe]

Have you seen the deals on the Bosch 36 volt batteries on ebay?

Doing the math:

Bosch 36 volt - 2Ah - $89 = 72 Wh = $1.24 / Wh

80 NiCads - 1.2 volt - 2.2Ah - $103 = 211 Wh = $0.49 / Wh

...not counting all the other stuff like shipping and chargers this means that you are paying roughly 2.5 times more for the Bosch for the same power supply.

I checked pretty much every deal over a long period of time and the NiCads are if not the best deal, then very close to it. They are capable of pulling nearly 10C discharge rates.

However, the Bosch batteries would require only a fraction of the effort to put together. (you basically buy them and use them) So the convenience factor goes towards the Bosch batteries. And Lithium is lighter than NiCad so that's another plus.