Eaton APR48-3G 1.8kW Light Compact Charger PSU

[honya96]

I wanna bring this up once again:

Any ideas or experience making a resistor-pot mod for changing the output Current ??
like the output voltage mod, just for current.

The reason for it would be to make a slow and fast charging switch to the Eaton

greets
Notger

Someone experienced has to find where it measures current and how to trick it.. I have not found it. Or maybe a logic switch to MC and change firmware.

Please how you was able to get 90v out of it?
Higher resistence of pot means higher voltage.. but my APR doesnt go over exactly 70v even open circuit (cut line, no pot)

 

[agniusm]

only allows to crank up to 67v.

How low could you set the output voltage minimum ? (with both mods pot and programmer ?)

greets
Notger

OK. Done firmware patch. Now my upper voltage is capping at 75V and the lowest i can go is 43.4V

Some 9V out, bummer

Can you check your resistor value?

 

[Offroader]

Could someone tell me the resistance range of the POT to use to adjust the voltage from 43 volts to 57 volts?

If you have 4 of these in series for 200 volts and want to adjust the amps. Would you need to adjust all 4 PSU, or can you just adjust 1 PSU?



Thanks

 

[downdale]

Allex, I'm trying to reprogram a couple of APR48's and have followed all your very helpful info on doing this. I have 2 problems...firstly, I get an error message regarding a clock error when downloading the config hex file from the PSU, although it does appear to download the data. I then save the downloaded file OK but can't open it using Eaton.exe, it just comes up with File Error. I have downloaded a supposed good config hex file from a Russian web site and that does exactly the same. Interestingly, my hex file looks rather different to the supposed "good" Russian one, although I can decode the model number etc. from the HEX ASCII data. Any ideas?

 

[captain387]

Hi Downdale,

Take a look at my post on page 4 at 10:30

Hope that helps

Jeremy

 

[downdale]

Jeremy,
Thanks. All sorted now.
Cheers, Graham

 

[Anastasia]

I use these Eaton modules as chargers for about 2 years already (made by Russian engineer). I often have the same problem: one of the fans stops and need to move its blades with a toothpick to work again. It continuously happens with all chargers made by that guy. Does anybody else have this issue or there is some individual defect?

Thanks

 

[goeielewe]

Does anyone have the Eaton patch .exe???

Google won't let me download it with the link provided because it thinks it includes a virus...

View attachment 1

I decided to go a little different route. D9 connectors to a breadboard. I'll be using a Raspberry Pi I have to do the AVR flashing since it has a fancy 26 pin GPIO. I'm building this one for my E-bike, but the end game is to have a bank of them on my diesel/electric drive sailboat project, which is already going to be automated with Pi's.

 

[Offroader]

It is possible to re-program Eaton so you can have lower voltage and lower amps, this is perfect if you have 14s battery with Adaptto system. Or you want to bulk charge to your preferrable voltage during a simple bulk charge.

First you need to get a 2USD USBasp USBISP 3.3V / 5V AVR Programmer, I used this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130682846209?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
DSC07007.JPG

Then drill out all pop rivets and open the case:
DSC07010 kopia.JPG

Then using pin out diagram to solder on the wires:
Pinout.jpg

After that, download the software (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1sNQs8gfn7ibldkZHdXaXRkUEk), you will need:
-usbasp driver
-Khazama AVR programmer(software that extracts the original EEPROM file from the Eaton and writes back your modified)
-Eaton patch tool(with this one you modify settings in your EEPROM file, like voltage and amps)

Install driver and solder on the wires, connect USB programmer to eaton and plug in programmer to your computer. DO NOT plug in you Eaton to wall socket!
If done correctly you will see two Eaton LEDs lit up(one will flash):
DSC07019 kopia.JPG

Once Windows recognize USB Programmer, open up Khazama AVR programmer.
Choose ATMEGA32 in AVR scroll down window. You can test communication by choosing "Command" -> Read Chip Signature
Now you need to read your current EEPROM from Eaton. Command->Read EEPROM to buffer
Then you need to save it to a file. File->Save EEPROM buffer As... Save it to something like DefaultEaton.hex
Start Eaton patch tool, Eaton.exe
Open your saved hex file
You will see current values. Change to what suits you and press Patch
Open up Khazama and load you patched file. File->Load EEPROM file to Buffer
Now write the file to Eaton. Command->Write EPROM buffer to Chip
During write LEDs will turn of on the Eaton.
Then you will get Write OK in Khazama
uploadOK.JPG

DSC07020 kopia.JPG

Good luck!

I connected the wires as per the diagram, triple checked the wires were properly connected.

When plugging in the USB programming device into my PC the Eaton power supply lights do not go on. The software also does read the eaton power supply.

I checked the voltage between pins 2 and 6, which are voltage and ground pins, and read 2.4 volts.

There are numerous ground pins on the usb connector, does it matter which GND wire I use, 4, 6, 8 or 10?

Is my power supply faulty? It does work at 48 volts when it is turned on.

Could this be a driver / software issue, or should the lights come on the power supply as long as the usb programming device is plugged in?

Thanks in advance.

 

[captain387]

My USB asp programmer had a little switch, if memory serves me correctly 3.3 volts didn't work so I switched it to 5 volts.

 

[Offroader]

My USB asp programmer had a little switch, if memory serves me correctly 3.3 volts didn't work so I switched it to 5 volts.

Oh boy it says 3V3 and 5V on mine.

Mine was set to 5V already. So am I out of luck with this as it should be set to 5V?

One of my wires did break off, but I believe after I tested it. Going to use a volt meter to check continuity of all connections and use 28 gauge silicone wire for strength soldered directly to the usb programming adapter.

 

[captain387]

My USB asp programmer had a little switch, if memory serves me correctly 3.3 volts didn't work so I switched it to 5 volts.

Oh boy it says 3V3 and 5V on mine.

Mine was set to 5V already. So am I out of luck with this as it should be set to 5V?

One of my wires did break off, but I believe after I tested it. Going to use a volt meter to check continuity of all connections and use 28 gauge silicone wire for strength soldered directly to the usb programming adapter.

Does the yellow light flash when you plug the power cord in as if you are going to charge a battery.
PS. I think you can fry the board if you have the usb programmer powering the board and also plugging in the battery, so don't do that 8)
Maybe a bad USB asp programmer?

And you have tried:
Choose ATMEGA32 in AVR scroll down window. You can test communication by choosing "Command" -> Read Chip Signature

Not sure on the grounds, I assume they are all connected, but I followed the wiring pictures to a T.

I believe the led flickered only when performing an action like read / write..... sorry its been a year since I reprogrammed mine.

 

[Offroader]

I broke my power supply. I found one of the ribbon connectors was not making contact. I could have caused this by sticking something in there to test which pins were the correct ones.

I then soldered it directly to the APR48-3G using silicone wire and actually had the lights come on. I triple checked to make sure the wire connections were correct.

It was difficult installing the software for windows 10, I had to download a program called zadig.
I then kept getting an error when trying to read chip signature.

I kept unplugging and plugging in the USB programming device numerous times to troubleshoot the issue while I was messing with the software. Then I noticed the lights were off on the Eaton APR48-3G.

I never had it plugged into the wall. I then removed the usb programming adapter and plugged the APG48-3G into AC outlet. The unit just goes click every few seconds like it once to turn on and just stops. It doesn't turn on.

I broke my power supply.

Not sure what I could have done to be honest. Is my Eaton APR48 pretty much broke for good?

 

[Allex]

Looks like it lost its firmware, happened to me once long time ago, it was just clicking upon power on.
Cant remember how I fixed it, it was something like plug it in to USB port without powering the unit on, clear the rom and eeprom on the unit inside kazhama, and load up a new one from another unit(or saved unmodified one)

 

[Offroader]

Allex when you use the Khazama software are you using it with windows 10 or another operating system?

I'm thinking of trying to use another programming usb device, maybe I should find an older windows 7 computer or something.

 

[Allex]

win10 yes, worst case you can try opening it under the win7 compatibility mode.

 

[Offroader]

Looks like it lost its firmware, happened to me once long time ago, it was just clicking upon power on.
Cant remember how I fixed it, it was something like plug it in to USB port without powering the unit on, clear the rom and eeprom on the unit inside kazhama, and load up a new one from another unit(or saved unmodified one)

Allex, would you happen to have the files from an unmodified one? Or possibly even modified so I can see if I can load the eeprom and flash back into my Eaton? If you can just save a EEPROM and Flash file off of any working APR48-3G so that I can see if loading it back onto the chip will change anything.

I was messing around with the Khazama software and there is a very good chance I did erase the Flash or EEprom, that is why I would need both files.

One thing that concerns me, when I plug my USB card in when connected to the APR48-3G the LED lights don't light up anymore on my Eaton. I'm not sure if that means I will never be able to load anything onto the Eaton. I am thinking this because even if the chip was erased, wouldn't the LED lights still light up when there is just power to the unit? Maybe not if it has to run through a program.

 

[Offroader]

Would anyone know if there are two separate files, a flash and EEPROM? I actually have a EEPROM file but the flash I don't have.

I'm not really sure if this unit even has both a flash and EEPROM? I may have overwritten my Flash.

 

[Allex]

Yeah I think I had two files, but my unit is sealed and wrapped in carbon film so better ask someone else for it...dont have the files left as this incident was a few years back.

 

[Offroader]

Yeah, I figured you had yours sealed up. I'm going to leave the wires somehow exposed on mine so that even after I put the case back together I can access it.

I did actually order another one and just received it in the mail. Somehow I don't want to open up this one and break it until I know that my other one isn't broken, just in case the programming device screwed it up.

The issue I was having is that in windows 10 and using that particular programming device, it will always give an error in Kahzama even when its working. I read that online that it will do that, and that was the case with mine. But even with the error it works. I screwed it up thinking it wasn't working and I believe I accidentally wrote to the flash or erased the flash.

Maybe I'll just open up my new one and download the flash file, I'll take the risk, as I think the USB programming device is OK. I was able to download the EEPROM and then open it up in Eaton.exe, and it did give values for the amps and volts.

 

[eee291]

I'm pretty sure there is a flash file on this thread from the Russian forum, just go back a few pages.

 

[Offroader]

I'm pretty sure there is a flash file on this thread from the Russian forum, just go back a few pages.

Thanyou

Interesting, I might be onto something here.

I found that link on the 3rd page. In the zip download file there are 2 files one says EEPROM.hex and the other file says firmware.hex.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66169&start=50#p1222582

EEPROM.hex is obvious and I had that file, but the firmware.hex looks interesting and I beleive that fixed someone elses issue.

Is this the file I need, the firmware.hex? Do I select the option in khazama to upload flash or how do I install this exactly?


Thanks again.

 

[eee291]

Can't help you any further yet since I currently only have a few of the APR48-ES units.

I plan on buying some 3G units to play with in summer.


http://vae-tech.forumactif.org/t126-chargeur-1800w-40-60v-et-15-kg-origine-serveur#1089

It should just be "Write FLASH Buffer to Chip" and select the "firmware.hex" from the folder

 

[Offroader]

Thanks guys, it worked. Everything looks good.

I flashed the firmware and as soon as it finished uploaded the LED lights came on. Powered up the unit and got 48 volts.

I then uploaded a modified EEPROM file for 53 volts, and that worked also.

So my unit is programmable. Just be warned that if you use the programming device in the link you will get errors, but it should say everything is OK after the error. This also goes for reading the chip signature, it will give you an error, then tell you your chip signature.

If the programmer isn't working it will give you a different kind of error, and it won't give you a chip signature.

 

[Offroader]

Maybe someone could help me out here.

I'm going to program this power supply for 53 volts and 4 amps. There is an option in the Eaton.exe patch tool for "MAX Voltage" which is defaulted to 58 volts.

Could someone explain to me what this is and what I should set this to. Thanks.