ELECTRIC TRANSMISSION DELTA /WYE and SERIE/PAPALLEL stator
- Thread starter Doctorbass
- Start date
Doctorbass
100 GW
wasp said:
yes.
In delta mode the current will increase to 1.73x so the controller may heat a bit more :wink: pay attention to that!
Doc
karma
10 kW
ill say one thing running the extra phase wires was a pain in the arse but i pulled it off 
Doctorbass
100 GW
Great!!.. what is the wire gauge you used? (to have 6 phase wire out of this bolt axel?
Did you tried the delta mode?
Can you take more photo (close up to the phase wire input and output from the axel + closeup on the winding ire soldered?
Doc
Did you tried the delta mode?
Can you take more photo (close up to the phase wire input and output from the axel + closeup on the winding ire soldered?
Doc
karma
10 kW
ya just did a test im uploading them now. i will say one thing. when you see it in person the speeds insane 
karma
10 kW
70v and i found out my wheel needs truing talk about out of ballance. you will see in the vids.
cheers
cheers
Doctorbass
100 GW
Hey Karma... Where is your delta/wye golden motor vid 4 ?? :wink:
Interesting video exemple about the Delta/WYE.. Thanks
Doc
Interesting video exemple about the Delta/WYE.. Thanks
Doc
karma
10 kW
there taking forever to load im sure you will like this one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJFp8Ao4XPs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJFp8Ao4XPs
Almasi
100 W
karma said:
I'm curious if it's not more out of balance....would the valve weight unbalance a wheel? (I would be curious to try to balance my wheel at 80KM/H)
This vibration is doing something to efficiency for sure...
Robin
Doctorbass
100 GW
Ah haaa!!.. that's perfect!!
Now who will try that first on the road
Gui... YOU... Me... Almassi?
(please be carefull with this Delta mode... The parasitic current stay in the winding loop and is more subject to overload mosfets withg some noise..
So let's try step by step first at low speed... I dont want to someone blow his controller because of that... and having a controller mosfet short at 60kmh or + is,,,,, VERY BAD.. it can freeze the wheel like you can not imagine!.. like a short circuit direct on the phase wire.. a 100% regen in a second!!!
So let's not blow this great idea and let's be carefull to preserve this great idea intact...
why not start with few video with 10kmh.. then 20kmh.. etc....
Who know.. up to 90-100kmh could be fun if nothing blow... ...but only as fast as a 5305 can do 8)
Doc
Now who will try that first on the road
Gui... YOU... Me... Almassi?
(please be carefull with this Delta mode... The parasitic current stay in the winding loop and is more subject to overload mosfets withg some noise..
So let's try step by step first at low speed... I dont want to someone blow his controller because of that... and having a controller mosfet short at 60kmh or + is,,,,, VERY BAD.. it can freeze the wheel like you can not imagine!.. like a short circuit direct on the phase wire.. a 100% regen in a second!!!
So let's not blow this great idea and let's be carefull to preserve this great idea intact...
why not start with few video with 10kmh.. then 20kmh.. etc....
Who know.. up to 90-100kmh could be fun if nothing blow...
...but only as fast as a 5305 can do 8) Doc
karma
10 kW
hehe ya i did a on road test just in delta. this setup will only work good if it kickes in at maximum rpm. so im going with doctorbase's relay idea. would be nice to have a turbo button 
karma
10 kW
what about a solid state relay?
http://www.electrostock.com/cry/crysspanel.htm
http://www.chtechnology.com/products/GNsolidstate/CHASS3R50.pdf
http://www.electrostock.com/cry/crysspanel.htm
http://www.chtechnology.com/products/GNsolidstate/CHASS3R50.pdf
Doctorbass
100 GW
Karma, You must use 3pdt relay or switch.
3pdt equivalent would require 6 x S S R!
Doc
3pdt equivalent would require 6 x S S R!
Doc
karma
10 kW
i put together a relay to test, your idea for using a relay is perfect verry smooth transition from star to delta. hubmotor works great at high rpms.
im uploading a vid of the test setup. and on road test.
what would be cool is to add somthing that detects rpm and activates the relay. than theres no need for a button hmm i have a old bike computer for the sensor
cheers
im uploading a vid of the test setup. and on road test.
what would be cool is to add somthing that detects rpm and activates the relay. than theres no need for a button
hmm i have a old bike computer for the sensor cheers
rkosiorek
100 kW
i used a dual speed crystalyte for ages. tried the auto switch using a PIC and a speed sensor/magnet mounted to the wheel. i went back to a handlebar mounted rocker switch.
it's nice to be able to drop down to "star" for faster acceleration when i want. i liked the manual control better. i used the star description even though the motor is a star 408/4012.
rick
it's nice to be able to drop down to "star" for faster acceleration when i want. i liked the manual control better. i used the star description even though the motor is a star 408/4012.
rick
karma
10 kW
yes i see what your saying after a few test rides, a button on the bars would be better. i was passing cars today. :lol:
rkosiorek
100 kW
another option i tested and i liked a lot was a Cyclone 500W kit driving through a Shimano Nexus Auto-D 4 spd automatic transmission. this was a 4spd internal hub that shimano equiped with a servo motor and controller to do the shifting automatically. worked great.
but i guess that is OT here as this is your thread about the Bafang. Good Job! DoctorBass must be drooling.
rick
but i guess that is OT here as this is your thread about the Bafang. Good Job! DoctorBass must be drooling.
rick
rkosiorek
100 kW
karma said:
SSR's are big and expensive. for this application you would have to mount them to a heatsink, making them even bigger. the "ON" resistance would be higher than most relay contacts.
Doc is right. SSR's are SPST devices. 6 would be needed for this application. instalation here would be huge.
rick
Doctorbass
100 GW
I thought about few mosfet instead of ssr?
With enough delay between the switch sequence from one mode to the other to avoid them to short something?
but the AC voltage on the motor + spikes may requier high voltage mosfet.. 150V? (the 4115 with rds on at around 8mohm?)
I dont know if it would work.. any comment on that?
Doc
With enough delay between the switch sequence from one mode to the other to avoid them to short something?
but the AC voltage on the motor + spikes may requier high voltage mosfet.. 150V? (the 4115 with rds on at around 8mohm?)
I dont know if it would work.. any comment on that?
Doc
karma
10 kW
i have a few here at 150v, ill dig em up and run a test. i like that idea better than a relay. :wink:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transistor/tran_7.html
worth a try.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/transistor/tran_7.html
worth a try.
rkosiorek
100 kW
the problem is that the MOSFET has a body diode that makes it a polarised device. would need to connect a pair of them back to back for an AC device. we need ac because the controller is H-Bridge and 1/2 of the time the phase is connected to the (B+) through the highside FET and the other half of the time it is connected to the (B-) via the lowside FET.
the next issue is how do you turn on the FETs. FETs are turned on when the Gate is driven more positive than the Source above a threshold voltage. we need the source of both FETs connected together for a common reference. the 2 drains become the contact terminals. to turn them on either an isolated switched capacitor charge pump or photovoltaic array is required to drive the gates sufficiently positive to switch on the fets. in other words all we have done is a DIY FET output SSR. and we still need a heatsink.
to simplify life there are a couple of driver IC's you should look into VO1263 and LH1262. i tried a design using the VO1263 as well as a discrete design using opto isolators and a charge pump. the FETs failed in both cases.
at a minimum you'll need the driver, 2 mosfets a couple of shunt resistors and a 1 meg resistor for a N.O. SPST switch. i tried using one made using 4X IRFB4110 and 0.005R 25W shunts. ran hot and burned out fairly quickly. i think for the same reason as the 4110 did not work in Doc's CBA. ie it is not rated to work in the DC or almost DC region. Recently I learned a little about that from suggestions made by CamLight on my thread for designing an active load.
be interesting to see how this works out.
rick
the next issue is how do you turn on the FETs. FETs are turned on when the Gate is driven more positive than the Source above a threshold voltage. we need the source of both FETs connected together for a common reference. the 2 drains become the contact terminals. to turn them on either an isolated switched capacitor charge pump or photovoltaic array is required to drive the gates sufficiently positive to switch on the fets. in other words all we have done is a DIY FET output SSR. and we still need a heatsink.
to simplify life there are a couple of driver IC's you should look into VO1263 and LH1262. i tried a design using the VO1263 as well as a discrete design using opto isolators and a charge pump. the FETs failed in both cases.
at a minimum you'll need the driver, 2 mosfets a couple of shunt resistors and a 1 meg resistor for a N.O. SPST switch. i tried using one made using 4X IRFB4110 and 0.005R 25W shunts. ran hot and burned out fairly quickly. i think for the same reason as the 4110 did not work in Doc's CBA. ie it is not rated to work in the DC or almost DC region. Recently I learned a little about that from suggestions made by CamLight on my thread for designing an active load.
be interesting to see how this works out.
rick
