eletric quad 60v 1500w with differential

[saguim02]

hello!I have a quad bike with a 1500w 60v motor with rear differential, some time ago my Votol EM100 controller broke down, one of the mosfets burned out, I recently bought a Votol EM100 controller, I thought it was plug and play and the bike would be running again, but It wasn't like that, whoever sold me the controller said that all I had to do was configure the voltage in the software and the bike would start running again, I already configured the voltage and entered the parameters I had on the other controller but I'm having some problems.1- when you exceed 15 km/h it starts to shake a lot, it seems like the wheels want to jump2- when I go around a curve it seems like a wheel is stuck, it makes a strange creaking noise.I needed your help to advise me on how to configure the controller so that my motorcycle can run again as it used to.
I leave here some photos of my configuration.
Thanks

 

[amberwolf]

If you're sure every setting on every field in every page is identical between old and new controllers, the system should operate the same as it did, if the controllers are identical hardware and firmware versions.


Often FETs fail because of problems with the motor itself, or the cabling between motor and controller. If the controller is changed without fixing these problems, it can lead to the new controller failing as well.

What specifically happened just before the original controller failed?

 

[saguim02]

If you're sure every setting on every field in every page is identical between old and new controllers, the system should operate the same as it did, if the controllers are identical hardware and firmware versions.


Often FETs fail because of problems with the motor itself, or the cabling between motor and controller. If the controller is changed without fixing these problems, it can lead to the new controller failing as well.

What specifically happened just before the original controller failed?

clear









658 / 5 000

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What happened was that the Chinese protection circuit breaker that came with the bike burned out but when it stopped turning off, it let all the current pass from the battery to the controller, meaning it melted 2 mosfets, the bike didn't stop, it continued to move but then stopped. I copied all the parameters from the old controller to the new one but the old controller is already old and must have a different firmware. When driving, I think my problem is in the rpm, which I have 4200 rpm, the same as the old controller, but I think this number is too large for a 1500w 60v motor because the motor when I accelerate seems to want to jump out. Any suggestions to try to resolve this?Thanks

 

[amberwolf]

What happened was that the Chinese protection circuit breaker that came with the bike burned out but when it stopped turning off, it let all the current pass from the battery to the controller, meaning it melted 2 mosfets, the bike didn't stop, it continued to move but then stopped.

Does this mean that the breaker had been tripping before? If so, it means that something was overloading it, such as motor damage, cable damage, or a load too high for the system's design. (or mechanical damage to the drivetrain between motor and wheels causing an overload).

What specifically was happening each time it tripped before?

What specifically was happening when it failed?

The FETs don't usually just fail--there is almost always a cause, such as motor damage, cable damage, overload, overheating, etc.

Not knowing what caused the problem, I couldn't say whether or not it could happen again or not.

I copied all the parameters from the old controller to the new one but the old controller is already old and must have a different firmware.

If it's different firmware then the same setup software may not even work correctly on both. (it could show or write wrong values when reading a different firmware than it was meant for, so even though it shows the same values for both they could actually be different). You'd have to check with Votol to find out.

When driving, I think my problem is in the rpm, which I have 4200 rpm, the same as the old controller, but I think this number is too large for a 1500w 60v motor because the motor when I accelerate seems to want to jump out. Any suggestions to try to resolve this?Thanks

If it worked before, it should work now, unless something is damaged.

If it didn't work before, then it won't work now, unless you change something to make it work.

 

[saguim02]

Does this mean that the breaker had been tripping before? If so, it means that something was overloading it, such as motor damage, cable damage, or a load too high for the system's design. (or mechanical damage to the drivetrain between motor and wheels causing an overload).

What specifically was happening each time it tripped before?

What specifically was happening when it failed?

The FETs don't usually just fail--there is almost always a cause, such as motor damage, cable damage, overload, overheating, etc.

Not knowing what caused the problem, I couldn't say whether or not it could happen again or not.







If it's different firmware then the same setup software may not even work correctly on both. (it could show or write wrong values when reading a different firmware than it was meant for, so even though it shows the same values for both they could actually be different). You'd have to check with Votol to find out.







If it worked before, it should work now, unless something is damaged.

If it didn't work before, then it won't work now, unless you change something to make it work.

I think my problem was too much load on the trailer, I was using a trailer and I think I added too much load then I got a bit of loose sand and it caused the motor to melt the controller, do you think the problem with the motor making that noise seems want to jump comes from that. Do I have a damaged engine?
Do you see my controller parameters?Do you think they are normal?What would you change?My old controller didn't even have as many connectors as the new one, some of the pins were unconnected, that is, the new one has 16 pins connected and mine has 11 pins connected.
thanks