Error 10, checked every connection, resistor black burnt smell
- Thread starter Wizzo
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I'm testing other resisters on another old bit of circuits I have and all giving me readings, but each setting reads different amount what ohm setting would I need to find the right 1 for it? Feels like I'm getting somewhere now. Thank you all
Wizzo said:
You should read the manual for your meter and watch the video I linked. You don't need to be an "electrician" as you put it to learn how to read a meter. I provided the link, since it seems like you need to understand the basics about meters and measuring, before you can grasp the concepts folks are providing or to provide valid information, since the 1 reading makes no sense. If the meter is set to ohms, then it would read zero when shorting the probes, and infinite when not; not 1.
I'm nearly certain the "1" being referred to is the "overlimit" or "out of range" signal his particular meter provides when whatever is being measured is above the limit of the range selected for whatever unit is selected. (some use 1 at the left edge, some use OL, some use a blank screen, etc)
If so, it means the resistor is burned open, if you have measured it using the Ohms unit, and tried all the ranges (usually 200 ohms up to 200K ohms, sometimes 2M ohms).
If it is burned open, and you can't see the color stripes on it to decode them for the value, you can guesstimate the resistance based on similarly-designed controllers posted on ES over the years. The resistor is different for a 36v vs a 48v or 72v etc controller, but should be about the same resistance for any controller with similar power supply design that works at the same voltage yours was designed for.
Which specific controller do you have?
What voltage was it designed to run on (this is usually on the label)?
What voltage battery are you using it with?
However, knowing what the resistor is probably won't fix the problem; you first need to find out what burned it in the first place. They don't typically burn open under normal usage under normal within-limits operation.
They usually burn open because the controller is being used at a higher voltage than it was meant for.
Or because the 12v regulator failed, which usually fails because the 5v regulator it feeds failed, whcih usually fails because something shorted the 5v line on the throttle or motor halls to something else (usually battery voltage at the throttle if it has a battery meter on it, from getting wet, damaged wires, etc., or phase voltage at the motor halls most commonly from damage to the wires at the exit from the motor axle (usually from a crash or the bike falling over, or the wires being twisted together from the axle spinning out due to lack of or improperly mounted or insufficient torque arms/etc).
Did any of those things happen to your bike?
If so, finding which problem you had and fixing that means the new controller you get (if you can't fix this one by replacing the regulators and resistor) has a better chance of staying functional.
If so, it means the resistor is burned open, if you have measured it using the Ohms unit, and tried all the ranges (usually 200 ohms up to 200K ohms, sometimes 2M ohms).
If it is burned open, and you can't see the color stripes on it to decode them for the value, you can guesstimate the resistance based on similarly-designed controllers posted on ES over the years. The resistor is different for a 36v vs a 48v or 72v etc controller, but should be about the same resistance for any controller with similar power supply design that works at the same voltage yours was designed for.
Which specific controller do you have?
What voltage was it designed to run on (this is usually on the label)?
What voltage battery are you using it with?
However, knowing what the resistor is probably won't fix the problem; you first need to find out what burned it in the first place. They don't typically burn open under normal usage under normal within-limits operation.
They usually burn open because the controller is being used at a higher voltage than it was meant for.
Or because the 12v regulator failed, which usually fails because the 5v regulator it feeds failed, whcih usually fails because something shorted the 5v line on the throttle or motor halls to something else (usually battery voltage at the throttle if it has a battery meter on it, from getting wet, damaged wires, etc., or phase voltage at the motor halls most commonly from damage to the wires at the exit from the motor axle (usually from a crash or the bike falling over, or the wires being twisted together from the axle spinning out due to lack of or improperly mounted or insufficient torque arms/etc).
Did any of those things happen to your bike?
If so, finding which problem you had and fixing that means the new controller you get (if you can't fix this one by replacing the regulators and resistor) has a better chance of staying functional.
Wizzo said:
OK, this just means the resistor is totally burned out and has no connection inside. Infinite resistance.
Since the color bands burned off, it's hard to know what value you need to replace it. And it shouldn't have burned up in the first place unless something else was wrong. If someone had the exact same model and took it apart, they could take a picture of the color bands and we would know the resistance.
Since I don't have one, I would have to do a little trial and error to figure it out. You want to start with a value that's maybe a bit higher than ideal. If the resistance is too low, it may fry the regulator downstream. Install something in the ballpark and measure the voltages on the ends to see how far off it is. I'm pretty sure a 1K would be too high, but installing one and measuring would tell us what we need to figure out the proper value.
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