Evaluating possibilities for non-hub motors.

natem

100 mW
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
36
Alright. First off this is a nice forum and I've gotten good information from it. Lots of the ideas here are pretty spacy and non-realistic, but there is also some good engineering going on. The most valuable information I've run across is when people actually have created real working bikes and have used them for real uses (such as driving to work and having 1000+ miles on their setup). Actually that sort of information is actually invaluable. But altogether this is a nice forum and I appreciate its existence.

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Ok, so I have some questions. First off, to put things into perspective here is my goal:

I want a lightweight maneuverable, bicycle. Something that I can pick up and toss into the back of my truck. But I also want to use it for driving to work and other tasks during times of decent weather to reduce the wear and tear to my truck and save money and that sort of thing. That and improve my health a bit by getting outside and getting exercise.

I am thinking about a all-steel frame bike... something along the lines of a 'BMX Cruiser'-style bicycle... something with a long top tube and 20 or 24inch wheels and designed for adults. Nothing fancy, primarily because good quality steel BMX bikes are actually pretty affordable.

I live in a hilly area. Long hills of average steepness.

As far as power goes my ultimate goals are:
* 20-25 mph cruising range on flat ground with mild pedal assist.
(as a bonus occasionally going 30-35 on flat ground with heavy pedal assist would be great for a better workout and fun.)
* The ability to travel up moderate long hills at 7-15 mph with moderate to heavy pedal assist.
* 20 mile range.

So not a power house. My main concern, as far as expense goes, is making the batteries last. So I would like more higher voltage instead of higher amps, and having excess capacity so as not to drain the batteries each day. I am thinking for batteries the Ping (of ebay fame) Lifepo in 36 or 48 volt and 20 or 15 amp hours. The idea here is biggest bang for the buck.

Those batteries are not ideal, of course. I figure when those batteries wear out and I can justify a higher expense to myself I'd probably graduate up to the "Dewalt Nano"-style A123 batteries, which now seem to be available to hobbyists.

So my goal right now is to find a low-cost way to match those batteries up with a motor and achieve my power goals.

Oh, and keep it as simple as possible. I'd like the ability to inexpensively replace burnt out motors and broken bits without a great deal of fabrication or special parts.

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Oh, and the easy way out would be to purchase a hub motor from Ampedbikes or one of those new BMC 600watt geared hub motors. I like the BMC geared motors a lot, I think they are probably near ideal, however they are expensive. Also non-geared motors are nice, but they are very heavy. So I am thinking I should go with the complexity of a non-geared motor for the sake of saving weight and the ability to run the motor through multiple gears at the rear wheel.

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Right now I am aiming for a single-speed bike with a speed of about 16 mph until I get the basic design worked out and a working bike. If I like it then I will invest in a rear planetary hub system like the Alfine 8 speed hub and work out better gearing.

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So to match the batteries and power requirements I am aiming for a geared motor that is 36 or 48 volts, produces about 500-900 watts, and has rotating speed of less then 400 rpm at the chain sprocket.

(And to be honest I wouldn't mind replacing brushes. I just worry about efficiency)

So here are possibilities:

---- Cyclone-tw ---

They have these motors that include dual freewheels so that I avoid the expense of converting my crankset (pedal side) to a freewheel system (like a IPS captain system for tandem bikes, which should run about 150-200 bucks after everything is installed and running). They have various models they offer online that seem pretty nice. 24v at 600watts and 36v at 900watts. About 400 bucks. Probably closer to 500 bucks with custom mounts made, it linked up to the rest of the bike, and that sort of thing, I figure. Brushless is a big plus.

--- RC-based motor ---

These are cheaper and seem to be good quality, which are both big pluses. My biggest concern with them is the general very-high 'KV'.

You see the efficiency and weight is very good. But I figure if I have to have multiple gear reductions then the drive train losses will just throw any sort of efficient operation out the window. So I would probably want only a two-stage gear reduction system... a motor --> pully (or gear) then chainring ---> bicycle chain. I definately do not want some little RC motor buzzing about 15K with a 4 stage gear reduction...

But the problem I am having with that seems that in order to get a RC motor to fit into that system I need to have a low KV... like 100-150. And the RC motors in that range are VERY powerful. Much more powerful then what I want and they would just obliterate my batteries. I already have a modified moped (oversized cylinder and racing exhaust) that goes about 45mph (60-100mpg, woot) and a 250cc Kawasaki Ninja that goes 85+ mph... I don't want to drop 2-3 grand on batteries to make my bicycle do the same thing.

So if I get a big HXT* or other motor with ~130Kv does it make sense to try to limit the current to it to 25-30 amps @ 36v? I don't really understand the nature of electrical motors that much, but I suspect that limiting the amps in that way will destroy the efficiency of the motor. Does there even exist a practical (read: off-the-shelf with some surgery) way to limit the current efficiently in that manner?

*http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5142&Product_Name=HXT_80-100-B_130Kv_Brushless_Outrunner_(eq:_70-55)

They way I figure it if you need 4 stages to take a motor speed down your going to lose efficiency... Assuming a 3% loss for each belt/chain your going to have to run through and assuming a 85% efficient motor your going to see:
1 (power input) * .85 * .97 * .97 * .97 = 75% efficiency.

So the expense and the complexity of a system like that does not seem worth it to me.


--- NPC Gear Motors ----

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/NPC-T64.html

Probably outclassed by the Cyclone-tw.. these are brushed geared motors. I like them because the geared system is designed specifically to withstand abuse and the motors are designed for powering wheelchairs, among other things. So they are tough and the motors are cheap to replace (~60-70 dollars). I like the idea of tough design and not having to wait for stuff to ship from asia.

on a side note:
Oh if you want some serious power check out the MagMotors. They are lightweight brushed designs capable of extraordinary power output due to their magnets. Something like 4-5 HP (4000+ watts) in a 6 pound package at 24 volts. I went to Magmotor's website and they do have _brushless_ motors using similar magnets, but I can't find any information in pricing.

--- My1018 "Currie" motor at 36v ----

http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106130

Nice and cheap. Relatively lightweight. But the power is a bit low and I have big questions on the reliability of the thing.

--- Dewalt 36v hammerdrill ---

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0016A3MB2?tag=dewpowtooonl-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=am1&creativeASIN=B0016A3MB2&adid=0W3HVNZGKNN5PKTRA8X6&

So you can find battery-less drills for around 50 bucks. Factory new ones for 80-100.

So they are extremely cheap and Dewalt has a very good reputation for reliability and strength. Not only that they have a all-steel planetary gear reduction system that reduces the RPM down to 0-400. Not only that they have a handy-dandy self-tightening chuck that can be used to hook up all sorts of adapters and whatnot. Such as:
http://www.dpxsystems.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ID=195
check out their video at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8abvlYHK3Q

(Although I don't plan on using DPX's system I like it a lot.)

So the older 24v model used by combat robots the world over. Very common, very popular. So you know it's very tough. They even have versions like the 'dustin' motor modified for high performance:
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/DCWD-D01.html
Although I don't plan on doing that, per say.

The thing about them is I am not sure about the specs. Dewalt clams a maximum power output of 750watts.. but that's probably near stall speeds, right? So what would they normally run at speed under load... something like 500 watts? I don't know. Like I said the 24v model is popular and I can find discussions were people are claiming 75% efficiency and 450 watts for those motors. The 36v motor shouldn't be any worse, I figure. Running higher volts it should be a bit more efficient if anything. Plus Dewalt relies heavily on reputation so having better battery life then their cheaper competitors is a critical thing (hopefully).

Oh, and the BIGGEST advantage, which in my eyes is huge, is that if I was to burn the motor out or ruin it's gearbox I can walk into virtually any hardware store in America and get a drop in replacement. This is a huge advantage. I'd be willing to spend a extra 200 dollars on batteries to counter any loss in efficiency over other motors to get the ability to do that.

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So any comments? How realistic do you think that I am being here?

Any motors I am overlooking that I should pay attention to? Any nice, large RC motors with under ~1Kw power output at 24-48v ?

--Thanks.
 
Personally i have the 1000watt motor from TNC Scooters and it has been faultless, there is ALOT of fabrication to get one mounted unlike the cyclone kit which is pretty much bolt on and go... PLUS is they're very cheap, wouldnt worry aboiut having to change brushes, they will last for years.

RC motors seem to be the next BIG thing in e-bikes i suggest you check the following thread if you havent already

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4625

Recumpence has manufactured drive units for the rc motors...i believe he still has several left from his first run they are few hundred dollars i think? This would be your best bet if you went with the rc motor otherwise there will be ALOT more fabrication required than any of the previously mentioned alternatives. If you go with it it will be a powerhouse of a setup and the lightest by far.

Hub motor BAH...not a fan...never used one though still wouldnt recommend one, hanging something that weighs over 10kilo off our rear swing arm cant do alot for the suspension/rim/spokes/handling...leave then for the dodos that have zero mechanical knowledge/ability to bolt on a non hub motor. (Just my opinion not looking for an argument from you hub motor users so dont waste your breath. )

Which ever way you go you will be pleased with performance it really comes down to the $$ your willing to spend and how much time and effort your willing to put into fitting the chosen unit :)

Best of luck

Kim

Apprentice Gangsta 8)
 
Well I am much less interested in high power output and much more interested in not smoking my batteries. If I was aiming for maximum performance then those big RC motors would be a no-brainer... but batteries are, by far, the limiting factor. I am aiming to match the batteries with a inexpensive motor.

For example if I do end up getting one of those Chinese LiFePo batteries from Ping (ebay) then they (assuming the 36v 20ah) have a rated discharge rate of 20 amps, max continuous 40 and peak discharge at 60 amps. If I want maximum reliability and cost-effectiveness then I need to work within those restrictions.

Then that means that at 36v and 20amp then that leaves me with about 720 watts to work with. However when motors are not running at ideal speeds... like I am in the wrong gear and lugging it up the road then a normally 20 amp motor would easily draw 3-4 times that amount of current... which the Chinese Lifepo should handle quite well for short distances.

With a 1 kilowatt motor then I would start pushing the batteries, but it should hold up as long as I don't run at maximum speeds. I'd probably shorten battery life, but it probably wouldn't make much of a difference.

But that RC motor you linked to would destroy my batteries in short order. On that first page the first graph shows the amperage off the charts... in the second the impressive power was still limited to 100 amps... which is using 5 times as much energy as I want to use. I could probably make it work, but even then the battery life would be dramatically reduced.

So my question about those big RC motors....

Does it make sense to limit them to 20-30 amps so they can work with my batteries? Is it possible to run them like that and keep their efficiency? What devices would I use to limit them to that?

Otherwise if I had the money to go out and buy the best batteries... then that would be something else.

My knowledge of electric motors and such are limited...

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As far as motors I linked to above only the RC motor would require quite a bit of fabrication. With the Dewalt, NPC, My1018, and Cyclone motors have built-in gear reduction units to get them down to about the speeds I'd like. The only fabrication for those would be the mounting hardware.
 
Yes the batteries is the dilemma im having myself, i had originally thought a Lifepo4 pack would have done the trick then when i got my trike up and running found out i regularly pull in excess of 100amps :-S discounts the duct tape packs...

Hopefully someone can answer your rc motor question regarding limiting amps i'm pretty much in the same boat as yourself with limited electric motor knowledge...recumpence among others would be the one to ask i think ;)
 
Hrm.

After doing some more research I found lots of good information on speed controllers. Some speed controllers have current limiting functionality, others do not. It seems that controllers made for combat robots are going to be the most robust, which should probably matter when you take the weights, speeds, and durations people want to operate their bikes.

For example 4QD seem to offer nice speed controllers with current limiting features at reasonable prices (100-140 USD):
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/4qd_speed_controllers.html

The the questionable thing about their controllers is that the amp limiting feature is designed to protect the power mosfets in the controller, not necessarily anything else. They probably can be used to protect your batteries and such... but you'd have to talk to their engineers about your specific application and whether or not their design will work reliably for it.

Now there are very fancy controllers like this one:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RP-SWDR.html

So it has adjustable current limiting from 10A to 130A and it's designed with the ability for a electronics minded end user to modify it for specific purposes They also feature 'Four Quadrant' controls: Acceleration, Forward, Reverse, and Regenerative braking. (only Forward is really relevant on a bike.) At around 400 dollars it's a bit much though. Probably perfect for a go-cart, small dirt bike or other lightweight vehicle.... How many Velomobiles or small 3-wheel trike-cars can brag about the ability to do regen or have a reverse? So that's very nice. But out of my price range.

Personally I'd probably want to take a look at those sort of ESC rather then something designed for the RC airplane market. Much beefier.

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Oh and I found these things, which seem very cool:
http://banebots.com/c/PLANETARY

A wide range of sizes and applications. Custom stuff also.

For example the P80 gearbox is designed for maximum torque rating of 85 ft-lb and range from a reduction ratio from 3:1 to 256:1. (The high reduction ones look like stacked planetary gears in series) As long as your very careful about limiting the torque going into these things then it may be useful for some applications. I haven't done the math yet, so I don't know for sure. They even have odd ball things like 2 motors into one shaft and things like that.

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The farther I get into this the more I am leaning towards the low-tech Dewalt solution. Cheap and easy to get parts and seem to do a 'ok' job matching the batteries as long as I do a pedal start.

Also the 'battle bot' types are all using brushed motors in their larger robots and reserve using brushless in lightweight robots and high-speed weapons on larger bots. Why? Because typically brushed motors are industrial oriented items designed for low-speed high-torque continuous operation. Brushless RC-heli engines may be big and powerful, but they are designed to operate in a high speed, low torque application. It seems that unless they are very properly geared they won't work out very well, were as a brushed motor will take a much more ham-fisted approach.. So later on after I get the gears ratios and performance I want dialed in on the bike then I will probably be able to take more advantage of a high-speed motor.
 
natem said:
Right now I am aiming for a single-speed bike with a speed of about 16 mph.
For this kind of thing a hub motor is the way to go. Once you cross the threshold of about 20 mph you either have to go for big power or multispeed gearing. Since many bikes already have multispeed gearing built into them the easiest thing is to add a system like the Cyclone.

Many of the speed freaks here can do upwards of 50 mph on their ebikes and for that you need to think differently... but for 16 mph... geez... make life easy for yourself and just buy something basic.

Even a Walmart ebike could get you started...

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Once you cross about 30 mph you effectively become an "outlaw" in most states.
 
But I won't be able to do a 6 foot drop or pull manuals on a wallmart bike.. at least not if I want to survive. :)
 
It's hard to come up with a simple answer when you ask 27 questions at once... :lol:

You might prioritize your desires in an ebike and then match those up with you $$$ intentions. Every once and a while we get someone with what seems like bottomless pockets who shows up on the forum with a $2000+ bike put together. Many of us use what we can scrounge and purchase as little as needed to get an idea to work out. So you need to decide on those factors and then ask more specific questions. By now the "ebike world" is already so diverse that a single answer cannot be given.

So make that list... then ask that focused question...
 
Ya.

Remember I want a power train to match up with the Ping-style Chinese LifePo batteries. At 36 volts 20ah batteries they have a rated continuous current of 20 ah. Which gives me ~750 watts to work with.

I am aiming for a relatively lightweight motor to match the batteries. I like the BMC 600watt version a lot, but the price is much too high for me right now. Other types of hub motors are going to be too heavy or underpowered.

I can weld (gas), do some fabrication and can solder good enough to populate a PCB and know enough to follow a schematic...
 
Well hot dog. I didn't know that cycle analyst did current regulation...
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml

That's nice.
 
safe said:
You might prioritize your desires in an ebike and then match those up with you $$$ intentions. Every once and a while we get someone with what seems like bottomless pockets who shows up on the forum with a $2000+ bike put together.......

Hey, I resemble that remark!

I am building up a $3500 BMX bike right now. Is that a problem? Are you saying I am addicted? Overboard maybe? :wink: :mrgreen:

I think you can achieve what you want with a brushed setup easily enough. When you get to higher speeds and power levels, we can really get radical. :twisted:

Matt
 
recumpence said:
safe said:
You might prioritize your desires in an ebike and then match those up with you $$$ intentions. Every once and a while we get someone with what seems like bottomless pockets who shows up on the forum with a $2000+ bike put together.......

Hey, I resemble that remark!

I am building up a $3500 BMX bike right now. Is that a problem? Are you saying I am addicted? Overboard maybe? :wink: :mrgreen:

nagh just hugely talented highly skilled with deep pockets AND to top it off a bloody machine shop in his basement ...baaaastard :p hehehe

If you want to be doing tricks natem you dont want a heavy hub motor dangling off your rear end...or worse the front end :-S the man who posted above is the one to hit up for an RC drive too if you decide to go that way, his drive unit will have you dueling ... tiz machining pr0n LoL
 
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