Fat bike kit options

[Ebikker]

I need some advise on finding the right rear hub kit for my mongoose hitch fat bike.I'm looking for a rear hub that will be at least as powerful as a bbshd. I already have a 52v 13.5 battery that I would like to switch between the two bikes for now, but if i have to get a higher voltage or higher amp rating I will. Is there a kit ready to buy or at least a fat tire rim laced on a motor.

Rear drop out width 190mm
high torque
regenerative braking
small display screen
4 inch wide rims
name brands if possible
controller???

 

[dogman dan]

Despite the fat tire craze, not a ton of vendors sell enough of them to get profitable at it.

I would say best place to look is, unfortunately, still ali express.

If you want a 20" rear wheel, E-trike.com sells a tadpole trike with fat 20". So they have the long axle motors required. You'd have to call them and ask to get them to build you a fat 26"wheel kit.

 

[amberwolf]

I need some advise on finding the right rear hub kit for my mongoose hitch fat bike.I'm looking for a rear hub that will be at least as powerful as a bbshd.

then you will need to state the specific usage scenarios you have, because the bbshd can use your bike's gearing to make it appropriately powerful for whatever terrain or speed you need at the time. to do the same thing with a hubmotor you may need a much more powerful one, depending on the conditions you ride in (hills, wind, road type, etc), and your specific needs under those conditions.

provide as much detail as possible and it will help us help you figure out what you need.

alternately you can go to the http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html and read the entire page to learn how it works, then put in your various conditions and try different setups to see which one best suits your needs. it's a useful tool to determine stuff like this, but there is a definite learning curve.

I already have a 52v 13.5 battery that I would like to switch between the two bikes for now, but if i have to get a higher voltage or higher amp rating I will.

this depends on what your battery can actually do. does it have a rating for how many amps it can output? i am guessing by "13.5" you mean 13.5 ah, or amp-hour, which is just it's capacity. if it doesn't state how many amps it can supply, i would recommend assuming it can only do about that many continouosly, and perhaps twice that for a few seconds at a time, to keep from stressing it out (it might be capable of much more).

if that's the case, it can support about a 700w motor (13.5a x 52v), and could run it for at most an hour at that rate before being empty. if it's more capable, then it can support a bigger motor, but at the higher rate would last less time.

Is there a kit ready to buy or at least a fat tire rim laced on a motor.
Rear drop out width 190mm
high torque
regenerative braking
small display screen
4 inch wide rims
name brands if possible
controller???

what specifically do you mean by "high torque"? that is a very relative term, so if you can't provide a specific torque value, you'd need to provide examples of what exactly you need that torque to do for you, for us to help you find the appropriate motor, controller, and battery combination to do it.

note that needing regen eliminates all of the geared hubmotors, and requires direct drive, which will generally take more current for a longer time from the battery and controller to do the same work at lower speeds. is there a specific reason to have regen braking?

qsmotor can probably do what you want, as a kit; they have a thread in the for sale section with links to their sales sites. the qs205 is a nice powerful motor but very heavy.

 

[Ebikker]

I need some advise on finding the right rear hub kit for my mongoose hitch fat bike.I'm looking for a rear hub that will be at least as powerful as a bbshd.

then you will need to state the specific usage scenarios you have, because the bbshd can use your bike's gearing to make it appropriately powerful for whatever terrain or speed you need at the time. to do the same thing with a hubmotor you may need a much more powerful one, depending on the conditions you ride in (hills, wind, road type, etc), and your specific needs under those conditions.

provide as much detail as possible and it will help us help you figure out what you need.

alternately you can go to the http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html and read the entire page to learn how it works, then put in your various conditions and try different setups to see which one best suits your needs. it's a useful tool to determine stuff like this, but there is a definite learning curve.
My riding conditions are all over the place because I ride in the sand,snow and road my speeds are on average 15 to 30. My biggest hills are the sky bridges in area.

I already have a 52v 13.5 battery that I would like to switch between the two bikes for now, but if i have to get a higher voltage or higher amp rating I will.

this depends on what your battery can actually do. does it have a rating for how many amps it can output? i am guessing by "13.5" you mean 13.5 ah, or amp-hour, which is just it's capacity. if it doesn't state how many amps it can supply, i would recommend assuming it can only do about that many continouosly, and perhaps twice that for a few seconds at a time, to keep from stressing it out (it might be capable of much more).


if that's the case, it can support about a 700w motor (13.5a x 52v), and could run it for at most an hour at that rate before being empty. if it's more capable, then it can support a bigger motor, but at the higher rate would last less time.

The battery is 52 volt 13.5 amp hour

Is there a kit ready to buy or at least a fat tire rim laced on a motor.
Rear drop out width 190mm
high torque
regenerative braking
small display screen
4 inch wide rims
name brands if possible
controller???

what specifically do you mean by "high torque"? that is a very relative term, so if you can't provide a specific torque value, you'd need to provide examples of what exactly you need that torque to do for you, for us to help you find the appropriate motor, controller, and battery combination to do it.

By high toque i meant high number of winding turns.

note that needing regen eliminates all of the geared hubmotors, and requires direct drive, which will generally take more current for a longer time from the battery and controller to do the same work at lower speeds. is there a specific reason to have regen braking?

I was thinking less brake wear and a little battery charging.

qsmotor can probably do what you want, as a kit; they have a thread in the for sale section with links to their sales sites. the qs205 is a nice powerful motor but very heavy.

Can you provide the link for the qs205?

 

[SlowCo]

Can you provide the link for the qs205?

If your battery is a 52V 13.5Ah pack it probably won't even supply enough amps to rival a BBSHD in torque as it has no gears to go through. And a QS205 50H hub can take very high amps before seriously heating up.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000898820113.html

 

[E-HP]

qsmotor can probably do what you want, as a kit; they have a thread in the for sale section with links to their sales sites. the qs205 is a nice powerful motor but very heavy.

Can you provide the link for the qs205?

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65972

 

[dogman dan]

FWIW, more winding turns is not higher torque. That one has been beat to death, yet vendors still insist on calling that the high torque version. You want more torque from a certain motor, put it in a smaller rim wheel. More torque from the same size wheel, choose a more powerful motor, heavier, more copper and magnets in it.

More turns, its just slower rpm. This can make a motor climb cooler at lower rpms, but it's not more torque. Just less inefficient when overloaded, to a low rpm.

And you should choose a motor with enough power, and put it in the correct size rim for your specific needs, so you don't overload it. Don't overload, problem solved.

Do choose a higher number of turns for creating a bike with lower top speed, intended for riding slower, if that is your desire. I built a bike with a smaller less powerful dd motor, yet it could tow huge heavy trailers up hills. It had 20" rim for that torque. The low rpm choice was to enforce a low speed no matter what, so it would go farther than a bike capable of faster speed. It was the best, most efficient bike for hauling larger cargo, and riding long distances for camping. But it could never go faster than 18 mph.

 

[Ebikker]

I cant find a Qs 205 laced in a 26" fat tire rim but I did find a Rear GMAC Ready-to-Roll Kit sold by grin. Does anyone know how the GMAC compares to the qs205 or bbshd.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/ready-to-roll-kits/rear-rtr/gmac-ready-to-roll-kit.html

 

[E-HP]

I cant find a Qs 205 laced in a 26" fat tire rim but I did find a Rear GMAC Ready-to-Roll Kit sold by grin. Does anyone know how the GMAC compares to the qs205 or bbshd.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/ready-to-roll-kits/rear-rtr/gmac-ready-to-roll-kit.html

Why would you need to compare with the BBSHD? Your specs say regen.

 

[999zip999]

Where do you live ? I would go to my local bike store and try a mid Drive motor then try to get a direct drive then a geared motor. This is the best way to answer your questions

 

[Chalo]

170mm is much more common for fat bike rear hub motors than 190mm.

100mm wide rims are scarce anymore; the industry has settled on 80-90mm wide rims for the fattest tires.

 

[Ebikker]

I already have a mountain bike with the bbshd so now I would like to build a fat bike with a hub motor that would at least be as powerful. The GMAC looks to be 137 mm wide will that work out when
i add two torque arms?

 

[amberwolf]

I already have a mountain bike with the bbshd so now I would like to build a fat bike with a hub motor that would at least be as powerful.

Under what specific conditions?

Are you looking for power to go a certain speed, or power to climb a certain slope, etc?

The BBSHD will have a wider range of situations it can use the power it has at, simply by you shifting gears on the bike.

The hubmotor can't do that, so to get the same level of torque for climbing hills, or startups from a stop, the battery, controller, and motor will need to be more capable by however much the loading is different than the BBSHD would see with the gear changes.

Same for faster speeds; the motor will have to be wound for the top speed you want, vs being wound for torque at lower speeds, and so to get the same torque the battery and controller will need to be that much more powerful and the motor will need to be able to handle the load as well, for as long as that load will be present.

I'd recommend you look into the http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html to see how this works, even though they may not have your specific motor/etc listed, you can simply use a basic setup (like the default) and put it in different situations you would ride in, and see what results you get. Then you can use the "use as middrive" option for the motor, and choose a gear ratio different than 1:1, to see how it performs as if it were like the BBSHD.

 

[amberwolf]

The GMAC looks to be 137 mm wide will that work out when
i add two torque arms?

If the 137mm is the full axle length, you need to account for the width of your frame on the *outside* of the dropouts, plus the torque arm thickness, plus all your axle hardware (nuts, washers, lockwashers, etc), so that all of that fits between the end of the axle and the shoulder of the axle.

If the 137mm is just the axle shoulder width, the "O.L.D.", then the torque arms don't count in that distance. Normally they are mounted outside the dropouts. If the OLD of the motor is significantly less than that of the dropouts, you may use the torque arms to help fill that space.