Parker
10 W
Hello good people, here is my story.
feat. old Raleigh mountain bike with ebay rear wheel direct drive "1000 watt" brandless hub motor
Risonmotor KT36/48 controller (KT36/48SVPRK-SLS02G)
KT LCD8H Display
Hailong style 48v20ah battery
I had a slow speed collision with an SUV, she came out of a dentists offect driveway pulling into a large road and basically pushed me over by the knee with the front bumper. The bike fell to the right, I went down with it. I got a sore knee, some other scraps and stiffness the next few days. The bike got damage on the end of the right grip, the battery bent to one side and the handlebars turned. The bike still worked and so did I so I considered it a close call. I should have made eye contact with the driver, I usually do that. I was deep in thought listening to a book by Irvin Yalom about death anxiety.
None of this might have any bearing on the issue I'm having but I'm giving context just in case it does.
The next day I decided I would change the back tire as it was worn out and because it would allow me to looking things over. The controller is under the rack on the back. So I took it apart unplugging most of the controller wires and put it back together with a good tire just like it was before(I thought). But now, even though the display lights up there is no power to the motor. Finding my harbor freight multimeter I wondered if it was dead or the screen was just blank(I usually don't use it). When I put it to my bike battery a bunch of sparks and a half vaporized tip on the red lead let me know that was a bad way to test it out. I might need a new multimeter.
I ordered an ebike testing device(Bo Ai Zhi a white box with LEDs, it looks like many others) and some 9v batteries for the multimeter. Today I got it and tested things with the bike tester. The motor hall effect sensors and phase wires seem good, the LEDs light up in the expected ways. The alligator clips on the tester made it so I could not test the throttle(and I could not remove the pins from the connector by slipping a sewing pin in like I saw to do in a video) However, the display says "throttle" when I turn it. When I unplug the throttle wires it does not do that. When I put a different throttle on it also turns on the "throttle" text on the display when turned. The brake cut off symbols light turn on when I pull the brake levers
When I attached the testing to the controller(hall effect plug and alligator clips to the phase wires) and turn the throttle it is not lighting as it should. The 5v LED is on but no other LEDs light up when I twist the throttle. Maybe something got disconnected in the controller after having the impact of falling over then being jostled round as I took off the back tire. So I opened up the controller to see if there was an obvious disconnections. Everything looked connected and no evidence that anything was changed from the fall.
I am getting to the point of considering starting to just change out parts. I see a new controller is like this one is about $70. But I would really rather know what is going on.
I hope this is enough info that it makes it easy to help me. I would hope to get possible culprits to the problem or what to test next, or good ways to search for pre existing info on this board. "no power to the motor" is for sure not a fine grained enough search.
feat. old Raleigh mountain bike with ebay rear wheel direct drive "1000 watt" brandless hub motor
Risonmotor KT36/48 controller (KT36/48SVPRK-SLS02G)
KT LCD8H Display
Hailong style 48v20ah battery
I had a slow speed collision with an SUV, she came out of a dentists offect driveway pulling into a large road and basically pushed me over by the knee with the front bumper. The bike fell to the right, I went down with it. I got a sore knee, some other scraps and stiffness the next few days. The bike got damage on the end of the right grip, the battery bent to one side and the handlebars turned. The bike still worked and so did I so I considered it a close call. I should have made eye contact with the driver, I usually do that. I was deep in thought listening to a book by Irvin Yalom about death anxiety.
None of this might have any bearing on the issue I'm having but I'm giving context just in case it does.
The next day I decided I would change the back tire as it was worn out and because it would allow me to looking things over. The controller is under the rack on the back. So I took it apart unplugging most of the controller wires and put it back together with a good tire just like it was before(I thought). But now, even though the display lights up there is no power to the motor. Finding my harbor freight multimeter I wondered if it was dead or the screen was just blank(I usually don't use it). When I put it to my bike battery a bunch of sparks and a half vaporized tip on the red lead let me know that was a bad way to test it out. I might need a new multimeter.
I ordered an ebike testing device(Bo Ai Zhi a white box with LEDs, it looks like many others) and some 9v batteries for the multimeter. Today I got it and tested things with the bike tester. The motor hall effect sensors and phase wires seem good, the LEDs light up in the expected ways. The alligator clips on the tester made it so I could not test the throttle(and I could not remove the pins from the connector by slipping a sewing pin in like I saw to do in a video) However, the display says "throttle" when I turn it. When I unplug the throttle wires it does not do that. When I put a different throttle on it also turns on the "throttle" text on the display when turned. The brake cut off symbols light turn on when I pull the brake levers
When I attached the testing to the controller(hall effect plug and alligator clips to the phase wires) and turn the throttle it is not lighting as it should. The 5v LED is on but no other LEDs light up when I twist the throttle. Maybe something got disconnected in the controller after having the impact of falling over then being jostled round as I took off the back tire. So I opened up the controller to see if there was an obvious disconnections. Everything looked connected and no evidence that anything was changed from the fall.
I am getting to the point of considering starting to just change out parts. I see a new controller is like this one is about $70. But I would really rather know what is going on.
I hope this is enough info that it makes it easy to help me. I would hope to get possible culprits to the problem or what to test next, or good ways to search for pre existing info on this board. "no power to the motor" is for sure not a fine grained enough search.