GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

[Overclocker]

Ah they learned there lesson and removed the belt, i had not been on their site in over a year. Then it is only a question of your voltage preference. Of course you get a bit more watts with the 60v version.

Wishes

awesome. 60v kit then. since LVC is pretty much the same then i could use 48v battery, then upgrade to 60v later on if i desire. thanks for the help

From what I remember of tests that were done on both, the LVC was not the same and the 60v controller will not turn the motor with a 48v battery. But that was almost a year ago, so my information might be dated. I know that 48v battery on my 60v stock controller does not work.

Wishes

[youtube]OOmVayD9qtE[/youtube]

hmmm this guy's got the 60v with the regulated PSU at 51v. the motor turns but i'm not sure if it would hit max power...

so you think i should play it safe and get the 48v instead? i'm gonna start out with a 48v battery...

 

[Wishes]

If you are going to use a 48v battery, then get the 48 volt controller. Keep in mind that you can push that 48v controller to 60 volts if you decide to upgrade your battery at a later date.

Wishes

 

[Overclocker]

If you are going to use a 48v battery, then get the 48 volt controller. Keep in mind that you can push that 48v controller to 60 volts if you decide to upgrade your battery at a later date.

Wishes

48v it is then besides, swapping out capacitors and SMD resistors for the voltage divider (for LVC) is something i could do anyway...

 

[bee]

I haven't posted much in here lately, mostly because my kit has been incredibly reliable these last few months. Only problem I get is the odd chain drop after getting too much air.

It's ugly, but it works great at 4000w











I accidentally destroyed one of the motor sprocket teeth while welding the sprocket back on, with the low torque/high speed of the primary reduction it hasn't caused any problems. The first freewheel got its insides mangled, I welded it so it no longer freewheels and ordered a replacement but I haven't had an excuse to install it yet, the motor doesn't really add much drag and I barely pedal

Dropped chains have been the biggest issue for me when riding with this much torque. If you're not careful and apply throttle with your chain in the wrong spot, the bike will happily rip the derailleur off its hanger and throw it forward while turning your chain into 4 pieces.

I have mostly circumvented this problem by using the single speed kit and a derailleur with stronger springs. The strong derailleur springs keep the chain tighter, and when it does fall off, it lands on the smooth part of the single speed kit where it can spin without catching on stuff.

I installed a throttle tamer and magura throttle at the same time, didn't like the lag introduced by the throttle tamer so I removed it, and never really noticed a difference between the magura and hall throttles. My magura throttle has been acting up lately so I switched back to the hall throttle and I could barely control the bike with it, kept giving me much more power than I wanted. The magura has a much better curve for mid-drives, I will have to fix/replace mine as the bike is scary & dangerous with the hall throttle, I have much less control.

 

[Wishes]

Chain drops are my nightmare too. That is when i usually break something. I recently added a chain guide near my chain rings. As that is where it drops and then wraps itself around the bolts of the chain rings on the inside, usually warping the chain and as you mentioned, sometimes pulling the derailleur with it.

I have not had 1 chain drop since adding the guide, but I do mostly asphalt speed runs. My bike doesn't see the kind of air you put yours through

Bee whats the brand of the derailleur you are using?

Wishes

 

[ebike11]

Hi guys
Since the sprocket sizes are important for determing the bikes speed with a mid motor, which sizing would be more beneficial for top end speed?
on the em3ev site, there s the 7-speed (11T-28T) or Shimano 6-speed, (14-28T) or are you using more specific freewheels for the GNG motor, stronger perhaps??
The freewheels on em3ev are for hub motors, so Im wondering which type you guys depend on and also which configuration for more top end focused??
Thanks!!!

 

[turbo1889]

Hi guys
Since the sprocket sizes are important for determing the bikes speed with a mid motor, which sizing would be more beneficial for top end speed?
on the em3ev site, there s the 7-speed (11T-28T) or Shimano 6-speed, (14-28T) or are you using more specific freewheels for the GNG motor, stronger perhaps??
The freewheels on em3ev are for hub motors, so Im wondering which type you guys depend on and also which configuration for more top end focused??
Thanks!!!

A smaller sprocket (on the rear hub) isn't always best for top speed even when not considering sprocket strength and wear or any other small sprocket issues.

Fact simply is that "the fastest" gearing is going to be the steepest gear your set-up can pull and have the motor in its peak power output portion of its curve that may not be the 11t sprocket which may be too steep for your set-up or it may not be steep enough. Hard to tell without knowing what gearing/voltage/Amps you are running.

You running stock GNG or have you changed or modified anything? If your running a stock set-up which version the chain primary or the belt primary? 60V or 48V stock controller (or 36V stock controller by special request only)? What voltage on your pack? Drive wheel size?

I think I might be able to answer your question, I've got a spreadsheet program I've worked out to answer exactly these kind of questions for my own builds. But I will need some more information from you.

 

[bee]

Chain drops are my nightmare too. That is when i usually break something. I recently added a chain guide near my chain rings. As that is where it drops and then wraps itself around the bolts of the chain rings on the inside, usually warping the chain and as you mentioned, sometimes pulling the derailleur with it.

I have not had 1 chain drop since adding the guide, but I do mostly asphalt speed runs. My bike doesn't see the kind of air you put yours through

Bee whats the brand of the derailleur you are using?

Wishes

It's just a broken sram x0 derailleur that I'm using backwards to push the chain out/down which strains the springs and provides lots of tension. I'm using the hardware from the DMR STS chain tensioner which is holding a skateboard wheel that I've notched a groove into with my dremel (the chain cut the original rubber DMR STS wheel in half).

I threw it together from various parts that this motor destroyed

 

[ebike11]

I know some people wanted to keep their 3 gear rings up front...
how about this crank assembly:

http://www.gngebike.com/27-speed-conversion-kit

Its from GNG and 27 speed, could fit many mountain bikes.

what do you think??

 

[Chalo]

I know some people wanted to keep their 3 gear rings up front...
how about this crank assembly:

http://www.gngebike.com/27-speed-conversion-kit

Its from GNG and 27 speed, could fit many mountain bikes.

what do you think??

I think that's a cheap 27 speed kit for normal pedal bikes. That's a regular, non-freewheeling crank. If you used that kit on an e-bike, the bike would need to have a front hub motor, or a rear hub motor with cassette splines, or a friction drive.

P.S. - That kit will convert a bike that has 8 speeds in the rear to 9-speed, but it won't convert 7 speed cassettes to 9. Not enough room on the splines.

 

[christerljung]

I haven't posted much in here lately, mostly because my kit has been incredibly reliable these last few months. Only problem I get is the odd chain drop after getting too much air.

It's ugly, but it works great at 4000w

I accidentally destroyed one of the motor sprocket teeth while welding the sprocket back on, with the low torque/high speed of the primary reduction it hasn't caused any problems. The first freewheel got its insides mangled, I welded it so it no longer freewheels and ordered a replacement but I haven't had an excuse to install it yet, the motor doesn't really add much drag and I barely pedal

Dropped chains have been the biggest issue for me when riding with this much torque. If you're not careful and apply throttle with your chain in the wrong spot, the bike will happily rip the derailleur off its hanger and throw it forward while turning your chain into 4 pieces.

I have mostly circumvented this problem by using the single speed kit and a derailleur with stronger springs. The strong derailleur springs keep the chain tighter, and when it does fall off, it lands on the smooth part of the single speed kit where it can spin without catching on stuff.

I installed a throttle tamer and magura throttle at the same time, didn't like the lag introduced by the throttle tamer so I removed it, and never really noticed a difference between the magura and hall throttles. My magura throttle has been acting up lately so I switched back to the hall throttle and I could barely control the bike with it, kept giving me much more power than I wanted. The magura has a much better curve for mid-drives, I will have to fix/replace mine as the bike is scary & dangerous with the hall throttle, I have much less control.

That´s a nice long-timeReview!
The magura throttle likes resistors in each end for even better range and Control. I Think it is 1k and 3k, check magura throttle/Infineon threads,

 

[ebike11]

I know some people wanted to keep their 3 gear rings up front...
how about this crank assembly:

http://www.gngebike.com/27-speed-conversion-kit

Its from GNG and 27 speed, could fit many mountain bikes.

what do you think??

I think that's a cheap 27 speed kit for normal pedal bikes. That's a regular, non-freewheeling crank. If you used that kit on an e-bike, the bike would need to have a front hub motor, or a rear hub motor with cassette splines, or a friction drive.

P.S. - That kit will convert a bike that has 8 speeds in the rear to 9-speed, but it won't convert 7 speed cassettes to 9. Not enough room on the splines.

Ah I see...
So is there any source yet for replacement sprockets?? If so where? Thx

 

[crossbreak]

i can't see a front derailleur in your pics. I use one on every bike as chain catch...even if single speed. Never lost a chain recently.. even at several kilowatts... Only way i loose my chains is by shifting under load by accident... then they disaggregate easily.

 

[ebike11]

I believe the largest chainring is 44T on the GNG crankset.

Has anyone upgraded the inner chainring to a 44T, because the measurements between the 4 bolts dont seem to
match the hole diameter of the Shimano 44T chainrings

 

[nukezero]

For those of you running this kit, I just wanted to get an idea of your TOP speed in the flat road no pedaling?

What is your top speed?
What is the voltage/current?
What is your gearing?


Thanks!!

 

[Wishes]

For those of you running this kit, I just wanted to get an idea of your TOP speed in the flat road no pedaling?

What is your top speed?
What is the voltage/current?
What is your gearing?


Thanks!!

If you are referring to stock setup. It does about 50 kph on a typical drive train. That will vary with the gear ratios you are using, road conditions, wind, weight ect....

At 3500 watts, 45 amps 75 volts. I hit 70 kph before my chain starts rolling over my rear sprocket. Smallest one that holds is the 14T.

Wishes

 

[nukezero]

For those of you running this kit, I just wanted to get an idea of your TOP speed in the flat road no pedaling?

What is your top speed?
What is the voltage/current?
What is your gearing?


Thanks!!

If you are referring to stock setup. It does about 50 kph on a typical drive train. That will vary with the gear ratios you are using, road conditions, wind, weight ect....

At 3500 watts, 45 amps 75 volts. I hit 70 kph before my chain starts rolling over my rear sprocket. Smallest one that holds is the 14T.

Wishes

50kph on 48v 20amps max and 48/14T gearing ??

 

[Wishes]

For those of you running this kit, I just wanted to get an idea of your TOP speed in the flat road no pedaling?

What is your top speed?
What is the voltage/current?
What is your gearing?


Thanks!!

If you are referring to stock setup. It does about 50 kph on a typical drive train. That will vary with the gear ratios you are using, road conditions, wind, weight ect....

At 3500 watts, 45 amps 75 volts. I hit 70 kph before my chain starts rolling over my rear sprocket. Smallest one that holds is the 14T.

Wishes

50kph on 48v 20amps max and 48/14T gearing ??

No I was referring to the 60v 22 amps, it was just under 50 kph, like 45-48 if my memory is correct. I've done so many mods on mine though, I don't remember if I had the stock ratio's on the freewheel jackshaft. I think I had the 14T ACS on it. The chain primary side was stock ratios.

 

[ebike11]

Are most of you using a non gng controller?
The stock controller is 20A-22A ....how high is it possible to increase the
stock controllers amps via soldering the shunt??
what can it handle? The newer controllers also have 80v capacitors

Thx

 

[Wishes]

Are most of you using a non gng controller?
The stock controller is 20A-22A ....how high is it possible to increase the
stock controllers amps via soldering the shunt??
what can it handle? The newer controllers also have 80v capacitors

Thx

Yes with the shunt mod. But all i did was add some solder on the shunt, I didn't add an additional staple like many people do. I pushed mine until 30 amps and used 75v with it. If you search through the beginning of the thread, you will see many people pushed it until 35 amps.

Almost all 60v controller come with 83v capacitors. Like most 48v controllers come with 63v capacitors. In theory, as long as you don't surpass the capacitor rating it will work. But there is a reason they use 83v capacitors on a 60v controller. Don't expect a normal lifespan of your capacitors by running them close to their limit. The capacitors will wear out faster.

Here is the thread with all the mods for the gng kit http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=46891

Wishes

 

[ebike11]

Are most of you using a non gng controller?
The stock controller is 20A-22A ....how high is it possible to increase the
stock controllers amps via soldering the shunt??
what can it handle? The newer controllers also have 80v capacitors

Thx

Yes with the shunt mod. But all i did was add some solder on the shunt, I didn't add an additional staple like many people do. I pushed mine until 30 amps and used 75v with it. If you search through the beginning of the thread, you will see many people pushed it until 35 amps.

Almost all 60v controller come with 83v capacitors. Like most 48v controllers come with 63v capacitors. In theory, as long as you don't surpass the capacitor rating it will work. But there is a reason they use 83v capacitors on a 60v controller. Don't expect a normal lifespan of your capacitors by running them close to their limit. The capacitors will wear out faster.

Here is the thread with all the mods for the gng kit http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=46891

Wishes

ok
would 70V and 35A be safe? can the motor and controller handle soldering the shunt up to 35A??

 

[Wishes]

Are most of you using a non gng controller?
The stock controller is 20A-22A ....how high is it possible to increase the
stock controllers amps via soldering the shunt??
what can it handle? The newer controllers also have 80v capacitors

Thx

Yes with the shunt mod. But all i did was add some solder on the shunt, I didn't add an additional staple like many people do. I pushed mine until 30 amps and used 75v with it. If you search through the beginning of the thread, you will see many people pushed it until 35 amps.

Almost all 60v controller come with 83v capacitors. Like most 48v controllers come with 63v capacitors. In theory, as long as you don't surpass the capacitor rating it will work. But there is a reason they use 83v capacitors on a 60v controller. Don't expect a normal lifespan of your capacitors by running them close to their limit. The capacitors will wear out faster.

Here is the thread with all the mods for the gng kit http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=46891

Wishes

ok
would 70V and 35A be safe? can the motor and controller handle soldering the shunt up to 35A??

The motor can definitely handle it, as for the controller. All I can say is in my personal experience with the stock gng 60v controller, I ran for a while at those rates before i upgrade to my first Lyen controller, a little less amps though, and today that stock gng controller is running a Escooter at the same voltage of 18s lipo and 30 amps shunt mod. It is still going.

But like any mod you might undertake. If you are worried about breaking something, or in this case burning it out, and having to replace something is an issue, then don't mod anything. Because there is always a risk factor, especially that this is not the highest quality controller to start with, so you never know. I don't recall reading any posts about someone burning it out because of the shunt mod. I remember reading about one or two dieing, but I don't believe it was related to the shunt mod.

When I modded mine, I already had in mind to buy a Lyen controller and didn't care if I burned it out.

Wishes

 

[ebike11]

thx Wishes!

How high of a driver sprocket would be too high when trying to increase top end yet still have somewhat climbing ability?
The stock gng comes with 12T, but ACS has up to 18T, maybe higher as I didn't check past 18T
I think it would be a simple solution to increase top speed (which is what Im focused on more than off roading)

 

[Wishes]

thx Wishes!

How high of a driver sprocket would be too high when trying to increase top end yet still have somewhat climbing ability?
The stock gng comes with 12T, but ACS has up to 18T, maybe higher as I didn't check past 18T
I think it would be a simple solution to increase top speed (which is what Im focused on more than off roading)

If you are referring to the stock gng with the chain as the primary, you cannot increase that driver much more than it is. There is no room between it and the large sprocket. They practically touch. Also there is the issue with the actual sprockets themselves. The one GNG supplies is cheap and very thin. Most replacement #219 sprockets that had more than 12T are built too wide to fit the small motor shaft. I know I bought a 14T that didn't fit. Out of frustration, I ended up replacing both stock #219 chain and sprocket on the primary with #25 chain and sprockets. Which provided me with more teeth options.

Now I removed the #25 primary and I'm running LR's belt. And that comes with only 1 driver option for the moment.

Wishes

 

[ebike11]

thx Wishes!

How high of a driver sprocket would be too high when trying to increase top end yet still have somewhat climbing ability?
The stock gng comes with 12T, but ACS has up to 18T, maybe higher as I didn't check past 18T
I think it would be a simple solution to increase top speed (which is what Im focused on more than off roading)

If you are referring to the stock gng with the chain as the primary, you cannot increase that driver much more than it is. There is no room between it and the large sprocket. They practically touch. Also there is the issue with the actual sprockets themselves. The one GNG supplies is cheap and very thin. Most replacement #219 sprockets that had more than 12T are built too wide to fit the small motor shaft. I know I bought a 14T that didn't fit. Out of frustration, I ended up replacing both stock #219 chain and sprocket on the primary with #25 chain and sprockets. Which provided me with more teeth options.

Now I removed the #25 primary and I'm running LR's belt. And that comes with only 1 driver option for the moment.

Wishes

Oh it didn't fit?? did you use the adapter needed? I think there is an adapter that goes on the inside of the ACS crossfire sprocket.
Maybe you need this in order for it to fit