skyungjae
10 kW
ebike11 said:
There's no specific place. Just make sure you kinda spread the outer/inner plates a little so the chain isn't super tight when you rejoin it.
GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
There's no specific place. Just make sure you kinda spread the outer/inner plates a little so the chain isn't super tight when you rejoin it.
LightningRods
1 MW
ebike11 said:
They are not. The thread pitch is 1.0mm as opposed to 24 threads per inch for ACS and White Industries. A 1.0mm thread pitch works out to about 25.4 threads per inch. An ACS or W-I will start to thread on and then bind. You can force the steel freewheel onto the aluminum crank arm threads but only once.
LightningRods
1 MW
Courtesy http://www.sheldonbrown.com
Freewheel
The mechanism that makes coasting possible. A ratchet mechanism that allows the rear sprocket(s) to drive the wheel when pedaled forward, but allows the wheel to turn forward independently even when the sprockets are not turning. In other words, the freewheel is the part which makes coasting possible.
Freewheels are normally sold with the sprockets attached, so this term is frequently used as a synonym for a cluster.
A standard freewheel attaches to a hub by screwing on to external threads that are part of the hub. The action of pedaling tightens the freewheel down on the threads, so no tools are required to install a freewheel.
To remove a freewheel requires a special tool, commonly called a "freewheel puller" or "freewheel extractor"
This tool is a splined unit that may be mounted in a vise or turned with a wrench. The splines engage matching splines in the interior (non-rotating) part of the freewheel body. Different brands of freewheels have used different spline patterns, but there is a recent tendency to standardize on the Shimano pattern.
Older freewheels had simple notches and matching extractors with two or four "bosses" (prongs.) This obsolete system was prone to failure, and it is easy to ruin the tool and the freewheel while trying to remove the freewheel. When using a boss-type freewheel puller, the tool should be secured against the freewheel by tightening down the axle nut or quick release skewer.
The standard I.S.O. thread for freewheels is 1.375 x 24 TPI, the same as for standard I.S.O bottom brackets.
See also my article on freewheels. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
Freewheel Threading
Type Inch Metric
Italian 1.378" x 24 tpi 35 x 1.058 mm
I.S.O. 1.375" x 24 tpi 34.92 x 1.058 mm
British 1.370" x 24 tpi 34.80 x 1.058 mm
French 1.366" x 25.4 tpi 34.7 x 1 mm
Metric BMX 1.181" x 25.4 tpi 30 x 1 mm
Freewheel
The mechanism that makes coasting possible. A ratchet mechanism that allows the rear sprocket(s) to drive the wheel when pedaled forward, but allows the wheel to turn forward independently even when the sprockets are not turning. In other words, the freewheel is the part which makes coasting possible.
Freewheels are normally sold with the sprockets attached, so this term is frequently used as a synonym for a cluster.
A standard freewheel attaches to a hub by screwing on to external threads that are part of the hub. The action of pedaling tightens the freewheel down on the threads, so no tools are required to install a freewheel.
To remove a freewheel requires a special tool, commonly called a "freewheel puller" or "freewheel extractor"
This tool is a splined unit that may be mounted in a vise or turned with a wrench. The splines engage matching splines in the interior (non-rotating) part of the freewheel body. Different brands of freewheels have used different spline patterns, but there is a recent tendency to standardize on the Shimano pattern.
Older freewheels had simple notches and matching extractors with two or four "bosses" (prongs.) This obsolete system was prone to failure, and it is easy to ruin the tool and the freewheel while trying to remove the freewheel. When using a boss-type freewheel puller, the tool should be secured against the freewheel by tightening down the axle nut or quick release skewer.
The standard I.S.O. thread for freewheels is 1.375 x 24 TPI, the same as for standard I.S.O bottom brackets.
See also my article on freewheels. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
Freewheel Threading
Type Inch Metric
Italian 1.378" x 24 tpi 35 x 1.058 mm
I.S.O. 1.375" x 24 tpi 34.92 x 1.058 mm
British 1.370" x 24 tpi 34.80 x 1.058 mm
French 1.366" x 25.4 tpi 34.7 x 1 mm
Metric BMX 1.181" x 25.4 tpi 30 x 1 mm
Hi guys,
how many amps from the controller can the stock gng handle??
I have 70V when the battery is fully charged. I also have a ku93 with
it modified to 28-29A.
I cant go much bigger battery wise,so would a larger controller help with
increasing top speed?
Im hitting 50kph, but am looking to reach 60kph
I am swapping and playing with the stock drive/driven sprockets as well in order
to go faster
Thx
how many amps from the controller can the stock gng handle??
I have 70V when the battery is fully charged. I also have a ku93 with
it modified to 28-29A.
I cant go much bigger battery wise,so would a larger controller help with
increasing top speed?
Im hitting 50kph, but am looking to reach 60kph
I am swapping and playing with the stock drive/driven sprockets as well in order
to go faster
Thx
speedmd
10 MW
To get more speed, I just wired up a new 75v controller with 18s/ 1p on my 48v Gen 1 kit. Using 3- 6s 8000 mah zippy bricks. Amazing amount of speed increase. Will need to tame the throttle a bit but zooms up past 50 klm/hr in no time now. Forget using low gears unless your leaning forward. Blast to ride.
Wishes
1 kW
ebike11 said:
If you are referring to the stock 60v controller, i have pushed mine to 35 amps and running it on 75 volts for over a year now. It is powering an electric scooter motor.
Wishes
speedmd
10 MW
Says 60A. No way to verify it. Batteries are 40C burst. Seriously a fun ride at 18s.
Wishes
1 kW
ferret said:
The stock 48v has 63v capacitors. And the 60v version has 80v capacitors. Those are your voltage limits for both. Although I don't suggest you run them on their absolute limit.
Wishes
Hi guys
I just swapped my stock GNG 38T ring to the outside and 44T to the inside.
I noticed a huge difference in low end torque. With the 44T on the outside, I could
lift the front wheel by throttle, but not with the 38T on the outside.
Using 72V and controller @ 30-35A
I didnt experience that much more top end though, so Im disappointed there. I thought it would bump
up the speed 5-7kph. I wasnt expecting the increase that the mathematical equation gave me, but I figured
a little faster.
I was wondering, if the rings are swapped and everything else stays the same, would the top be equal no matter where the chainrings are placed?? If I put the 38T on the outside, then the larger 44T would be on the inside and limit top speed, therefore cancelling out any extra speed?? Just a thought, which Im probably wrong
Thanks!!
I just swapped my stock GNG 38T ring to the outside and 44T to the inside.
I noticed a huge difference in low end torque. With the 44T on the outside, I could
lift the front wheel by throttle, but not with the 38T on the outside.
Using 72V and controller @ 30-35A
I didnt experience that much more top end though, so Im disappointed there. I thought it would bump
up the speed 5-7kph. I wasnt expecting the increase that the mathematical equation gave me, but I figured
a little faster.
I was wondering, if the rings are swapped and everything else stays the same, would the top be equal no matter where the chainrings are placed?? If I put the 38T on the outside, then the larger 44T would be on the inside and limit top speed, therefore cancelling out any extra speed?? Just a thought, which Im probably wrong
Thanks!!
BRK
10 mW
ebike11 said:Hi guys
I just swapped my stock GNG 38T ring to the outside and 44T to the inside.
I noticed a huge difference in low end torque. With the 44T on the outside, I could
lift the front wheel by throttle, but not with the 38T on the outside.
Using 72V and controller @ 30-35A
I didnt experience that much more top end though, so Im disappointed there. I thought it would bump
up the speed 5-7kph. I wasnt expecting the increase that the mathematical equation gave me, but I figured
a little faster.
I was wondering, if the rings are swapped and everything else stays the same, would the top be equal no matter where the chainrings are placed?? If I put the 38T on the outside, then the larger 44T would be on the inside and limit top speed, therefore cancelling out any extra speed?? Just a thought, which Im probably wrong
Thanks!!
As you gear up the bike, low end torque decreases while top end speed will increase, but only to a point. This is where the concepts of torque and power come in to play. Torque is a static twisting force in foot-lbs, n-m, or any other units of a force over a distance, which are the same units as work. Power is work over a period of time. As you increase speed on your bike, friction in the tires, bearings, chains, wind resistance, and other factors all increase which require more and more work (torque) at a faster and faster rate. So top end is limited by the overall power of your motor and won't be impacted that much by your gearing. Of course, there is a another limit where the motor RPM would approach the no-load rpm and that would limit the top speed. If you have a speedometer on your driven wheel, you can lift up the bike and see what your maximum no load speed would be given unlimited power. An electric motor wont go faster than the no load rpm regardless of the size or power. As long as you are below that limit, if you want to go faster, you need to reduce friction and wind resistance or increase power. Going uphills, you are adding the additional work of raising the total weight of you and the bike times number of feet of elevation increase of the hill on top of the friction and wind resistance.
http://www.wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp
LightningRods
1 MW
ebike11 said:
That was a great explanation from BRK. The upshot is that if you raise your gearing and don't get a higher top speed, you don't have enough torque to pull that gearing. If you did this same experiment in a faired velomobile with much lower wind resistance you would almost certainly see that extra speed. The reduced wind resistance would allow the motor to rev higher.
Reducing the size of the driven sprocket and increasing the size of the driver sprocket has the same effect. Both changes raise the overall gear ratio. They don't cancel each other. In this case they multiply each other.
Wishes
1 kW
ebike11 said:
Not lube per say, I do use something to prevent rust, as i run mine in wet conditions as well. I use "fluid film" only because "corrosion X" is not available in Canada. I guess it is kind of a lube, but mostly for preventing rust.
Wishes
Does anyone know where to get a high quality #25 chain for the stock gng chain reduction motor?
My stock one is fine but noisy and LR recommend a quieter #25 chain but doesnt sell them himself.
Id like to reduce the noise first off, and maybe change sprockets on the left side of the motor as well
thanks
My stock one is fine but noisy and LR recommend a quieter #25 chain but doesnt sell them himself.
Id like to reduce the noise first off, and maybe change sprockets on the left side of the motor as well
thanks
Wishes
1 kW
ebike11 said:
The chain, stage 1 reduction, of the stock GNG uses a #219 chain. The noise issue is caused by the small driver sprocket that is too small for the size chain. Not enough teeth are engaged. What many of us have done, is replace the #219 primary reduction with #25 sprockets and chains. Overall delivers a much quieter setup. But you need more than just the chain.
Here are some url's to the #25 sprockets and chains that I used to replace the noisy #219 primary reduction.
If you have the chain version of the GNG, this large sprocket is a direct bolt on.
80t sprocket http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_89&product_id=131
#25 Chain http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=38_103
13T driver sprocket http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets25chain.html
The motor shaft has a 8mm flat with a 10mm diameter. However, it only sticks out 2 inches, so you cannot use those wider driver sprockets, have to use the smaller thinner ones and I think they come in 13T maximum size.
I hope that helps.
Wishes
Wishes said:
Thanks for the links!
Would this 13T be the same as the 13T sprocket in the above link at electricscooterparts.com?
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_90&product_id=138
If so then I could order all parts from tncscooter to save on international shipping
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