GNG 450W kit - controller blown ?

[NoneToBe]

Hi,

I have purchased a GNG 450W kit and a 48V 12ah battery. Kit is hooked up but when I turn the throttle nothing happens. I have used Anderson plugs on the battery to controller connection and have measured 53V coming out of the battery but when I measure across the red/black throttle plug from the controller I see no voltage. I checked all combinations across the 3 wires and no voltage while controller is plugged in.

Is there anything else I can check to confirm that its the controller before proceeding to purchase a new controller ?

Thanks.

 

[Rassy]

These kits don't come with instructions, and you mentioned the connectors you added to connect to your battery, but, you didn't mention the controller "on" connection. There is a small red wire that must be connected to the large red battery wire to turn the controller on. A key or toggle switch is often added here for convenience/safety.

 

[NoneToBe]

Thanks,

I soldered the red keylock wire to the red battery wire and got 5V on the throttle output on the controller. However, when I turn the throttle nothing happens. I tried shorting red to green, black to green to see if this would simulate full throttle but again nothing.

I noticed there is a PAS output on the controller ( labelled not supplied ), I don't have to do anything with this do I ? I have the phase wires hooked up via the plastic mount and what appears to be the 5-wire motor hall sensor wires plugged in as well.

I'm guessing there is something else I need to plug in or disable

 

[Rassy]

It sounds like you have everything plugged in properly. There was a recent report of one of the throttle wires being hooked up wrong (color issue) that had to be corrected, so before ordering any new parts you need to figure out what is really wrong. I agree that the PAS (and the brake cut off) do not need to be used.

The best way to check everything out is with one of the controller/motor testers than Lyen sells, but a lot can be done without it. It depends on your controller, but some controllers refuse to operate when they see a 5v input on the green sense wire from the throttle, which is what your test would have provided. You can test that the throttle is functioning properly by pulling out the green wire from the connector. Just unplug the connector, and use a little bitty flat screw driver blade to push down on the little metal keeper while you back the wire out of the connector. Then hook everything up and measure the voltage between the green wire from the throttle and your battery ground as you twist the throttle. It should vary somewhere between 0v and 5v.

If the throttle checks out ok, then you need to check the halls and phase wires that run to the motor. There are some threads that detail how to test these.

Good luck with finding the problem, and hopefully it's just a loose or incorrect wire.

 

[justlooking]

 

[Tinto]

Have just spent a couple of days scratching my head as to why my GNG kit wasn't working... Until I read this thread.
I was treating the key wire as an optional feature for wiring in a switch rather than an essential part of the system.
Now I can move on from bench running it to strapping it on the bike.

Thank you for the input guys.
Hope the OP has sorted his kit out too.

 

[NoneToBe]

Hi,

So I've finally had a chance to get back to this. The tester indicates that the halls are working ( middle row of leds ) but the none of the motor phase less on the top row light up. Do I need to have power connected to test this or switch something on. Is it hard to rewire the phase wires if I have to ?

 

[d8veh]

Hi,

So I've finally had a chance to get back to this. The tester indicates that the halls are working ( middle row of leds ) but the none of the motor phase less on the top row light up. Do I need to have power connected to test this or switch something on. Is it hard to rewire the phase wires if I have to ?

The phase wire testing requires that you spin the motor with the tester connected tothe phase wire connections. The motor works like a generator so it sends pulses of power up the phase wires that light up the LEDSs on the tester. It won't be so easy to do this with the GNG because you don't have a wheel to spin. Try turning the large belt pulley.

Check again that your hall connections are in the correct sequence on both sides of the connector and that a pin hasn't backed out.

 

[NoneToBe]

fyi :-

I eventually got this going by taking apart the controller and putting it back together. So, a loose wire somewhere but not sure which one Had my first 30 mins ride today and its an excellent kit. The throttle is smooth and allows you to easily control the power to match your pedaling. Loads of torque to get up hills at supernatural speeds without the motor or controller getting warm. I only use 1/4th of throttle in spurts so I'm probably not pushing it to the limits but it was mostly intended for hills anyway.

I'm going to have so much fun with this

 

[gknowes]

the same thing happen to me, but i found that the large white phase connector, the pins inside are sloppy and move around. it's not a very good connection! so when you connect it you have to make sure the pins line up

 

[NoneToBe]

Yeah,

I replaced the yellow box containing the phase wires with bullet connectors and swapped in a lyen controller so I could directly hook up a CA. Gives me a lot more visibility on how its performing ( and lets me change the limits on the fly etc ). Also found the yellow hall wire snapped off on the connector so reconnected that ( assuming that was the cause previously ).

Was still getting random power loss ( but CA still had power so not 100% BMS ) after 30 mins so reduced the peak amps down to 22A and got 20 Km on it without issue so I'll see how it goes. I don't mind learning how to troubleshoot this as you effectively have to self-support as your local ebike shop isn't going to know much more.

 

[rmasu]

just wanted to clarify something from this old post,

The red key lock wire goes to a switch or key switch and continues to run back to the large battery wire?
Thanks!
Ross

 

[d8veh]

just wanted to clarify something from this old post,

The red key lock wire goes to a switch or key switch and continues to run back to the large battery wire?
Thanks!
Ross

Correct. Or, you can connect it directly to the battery positive, so that the controller's on all the time the battery's on.