I must've fried something because nothing works.
H-Brake to battery voltage turns throttle off.
H-brake to independent 12V battery to gnd turns throttle off.
H-brake to 5V controller wire turns throttle off.
L-brake to ground turns throttle off
Did all the same with the 2 un-named orange or slightly brown wires with their own connector connected together, ?regen braking on/offwires?
Quick glance at my Greentime controller label
36-48V 800-1000W 35A
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My wires are as follows
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Purple/Red/Black to one connector - has PAS label
Orange/Black to one connector - has Cruising label
Blue/Black/Orange to one connector - has 3 speed label
Black/Brown to one connector - has Reverse label
Halls 5 wires with one connector, I dont use it because the controller is sensor-less.
2 white wires with separate connectors - has Self Learn label
2 orange wires with separate connectors - Unlabelled but might be ?regen braking?
Single yellow with barrel connector - has Display label
Loose wires twisted together - Red and Brown - not labeled, but 100% Ignition (Connect together turns on controller.)
Loose white wire - not labeled - Unknown - Might be L-Brake
Single yellow wire - has H-brake label
Loose black wire - not labeled - Unknown It's ground.
My throttle wires are all loose wires and unlabeled.
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Pictures of my controller
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1720962912.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.2.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking wires look similar to mine. L-Brakes yje same. H-Brakes the same.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000499235804.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.12.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking is different.
L&H-Brakes are the same.
Similar H&L-Brake wires as mine, no 2 orange wires with their own connector.
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Edit
The un-labelled two orange wires with each their own connector that connects to one another Regen braking on/off connectors looked corroded so I snipped them off.
I snipped them off and hardwired them together.
Tried testing it differently which you can totally notice the difference.
With kickstand down, I could easily lift the front hub motor up off the ground with one hand with the same hand also using the throttle and also leaning the bike onto the kickstand to lift the front hub.
then with the other hand I could touch the L-Brake and Gnd wires together.
Then touch the L-Brake and Ground wires together
Noticeable cogging, chug a lug and slowdown, but not as much as I hoped.
I did the same method with the orange regen on/off wires not connected.
Nothing happened, motor just kept on spinning normally.
Before I wasn't lifting the hub up off the ground and giving it throttle
I was just spinning the wheel it by hand and comparing how the wheel acts between the wires connected and not connected.
I did feel and hear a very slight cogging action.
I was expecting more of a chug-a-lug slowdown, more magnetic friction.
I don't know how it will act when I am out riding on hills, be lovely to not spend money on brake pads.
Have to extend the wires up to the handlebar to give it a go for a quick fix, otherwise I need to take off the Tektro levers, and undo all the work I did replacing cable, setting it all up.
Battery regen looks to be a good feature on other controller. I can get 55km now in the summer and Justin said he got 10-18% when he was here just riding around in the city on his cross country ride. An extra 6-10km sure beats an extra 130-250wh of battery = 4-7Ah = 20-30 18650's = $60-$90. Should have bought a Sinewave controller with regen years ago.
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L-Brake is real disappointing, won't do much but come to a slow stop.
I can't save brake pads with L-Brake.
I will have to hook up H-Brake to battery pack with another rocker switch taped to the brake lever.
Thats for another day. Will try H-Brake independently, then try L-Brake and H-Brake together.
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L-Brake needs a certain motor rpm for it to kick in strong.
The faster you go the stronger the L-Brake kicks in.
With 330lbs on a steep 20% grade short hill 75-100' its surprisingly strong braking. However I still needed to use a bit of brake. Longer hills and still steep but not too steep, works a charm. Will save lots of money on C$16 brake pads.
When I first hooked it up I was just lifting the bike and spinning the wheel by hand was obviously not enough motor rpm thats why the cogging was barely noticeable. Then the second test of my riding a few houses down and engaging L-Brake wasnt strong at all either but more noticeable then spinning wheel by hand.
I got the L-Brake on a big toggle switch, but I went out today and bought some momentary off (on) switches which I plan to mount right atop the clamp for the brake lever beside the throttle on the right hand side. Yeah sure I got the Wuxing brake levers but they feel so cheap.
Interesting to note
When I unplug one battery and switch to another battery the L-Brake did not work.
The L-Brake is plugged into one of the black ground wires on the controller.
I can't remember if I unplugged regen on/off and tested it and L-Brake did or did not work. Cant remember to hot out today. However with that still unplugged I also unplugged the ignition wires, then plugged them both back in and L-brake worked. Not sure what I will do, hook up the ignition to the big toggle switch or just buy a keyed ignition unit or key&throttle unit.
Here's Jay Leno's firetruck with frictionless braking, induction electro-magnetic brake.
Not the same but cool non the less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB7_4XSl4AM