Hardware temperature control tsdz2

[andrea_104kg]

I open this tread separate from the main one to ONLY post engine HARDWARE temperature control solutions.
This is one of the major flaws of tsdz2, please post ideas and solutions only on this topic.

If it can be useful to summarize my experiences made to check the engine temperature.
Sorry I can't put the photos in the right place :-(
First I put a lcd themometer capable of measuring up to 110 ° celsius.




I took a test climb.
it is a non asphalted country road. The maximum slope is 17%.


The outside temperature was around 16 ° celsius., The engine (tsdz2 48v 750w) was at 37 ° at the start. max power oscillating from 450w to 800w.
the result



then I tried putting a fan




View attachment 9


The result has unfortunately been unsatisfactory.


I knew that in the summer I could no longer use tsdz2, so I resorted to drastic remedies.



I FILLED HOLES WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE


This evening I did the test again, outside temperature 25 °, 37 ° engine at the start.
The result



the problem it's solved!
I also did a very tough off-shore tour and the maximum temperature reached was 81 °
Unfortunately, during the unmodified tests I reached 95 ° many times and sometimes even

The engine seems a little less powerful than a new one, but for now I won't change it!

If you have ideas, and above all test results, they are welcome !!

 

[Aquakitty]

Hi, I am eager to follow this thread. What temperature sensor are you using?

 

[andrea_104kg]

It's a digital termometer, I found it on ebay..

 

[casainho]

Looking at the picture of your motor that it is brown, it is almost for sure already demagnetized/damaged and so has lower torque and pulling more current, that will result you pulling more current to have the desired assistance and it will get hot even faster.......

I suggest you to replace you motor asap and be careful with your tests of temperature or you may repeat the same demagnetization/damage to the new motor.

Also the results of your tests may not reflect what happens to a good working motor that other users have.

 

[andrea_104kg]

Looking at the picture of your motor that it is brown, it is almost for sure already demagnetized/damaged and so has lower torque and pulling more current, that will result you pulling more current to have the desired assistance and it will get hot even faster.......

I suggest you to replace you motor asap and be careful with your tests of temperature or you may repeat the same demagnetization/damage to the new motor.

Also the results of your tests may not reflect what happens to a good working motor that other users have.

Unfortunately, BEFORE making the change, at each tour the temperature reached a minimum of 90 ° and sometimes over 100 °.
Unfortunately they are my normal country paths, I can't avoid them.
This with a new engine (bought in January). I know it could be demagnetized, for now it continues to work even on the 25% climb so I don't replace it
Currently it is very difficult to make him reach 70 °. I think the temperature reduction would also be in other engines.
Indeed it could be bigger, if mine is damaged it heats up more.

 

[andrea_104kg]

I honestly don't understand how it is possible to go to the mountains without at least one temperature sensor. I believe that most users have a damaged engine and don't know it. Of course, if you use the bike 3-4 times a month, it will probably last a lot. I do those routes every day

 

[Aquakitty]

I bought a few thermometers to test my units. It's kind of ridiculous this motor overheats so easily. Just riding to town and back and my spouse's motor was nearly too hot to touch.

 

[andrea_104kg]

I share. before the modification it was enough to climb 2 km to go over 90 °. On the road even worse if I tried to go to the maximum power on 6-8% climbs, starting from a 55 ° motor already after a km I was almost at 100 °.

 

[Elinx]

Looking at the picture of your motor that it is brown, ...........

On the first picture (with the steel cables) the laminated steelcore isn't brown.
Isn't this brown color a copper plate placed on the laminated steelcore? (the airfins are also copper)
Because this looks almost as flat as the end caps. Normally it is about a few mm difference

edit:
andrea_104kg said here it is 0,8mm bended copperplate

 

[sysrq]

Probably even something like this
https://www.fastrax-rc.com/index.php?_route_=fastrax-blue-aluminium-twin-fan-motor-heatsink-unit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/382967894510?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=382967894510&targetid=604156779753&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046245&poi=&campaignid=1506022789&mkgroupid=59527570273&rlsatarget=pla-604156779753&abcId=1139586&merchantid=110335821&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2K3rBRDiARIsAOFSW_4aMfIVdssYTNZt2bo8KKisz0prt-5ad5FPAB_JnQ6pGWuBzx6qy1EaAmUJEALw_wcB
won't be able to help much.
When I opened the black external cover for the first time it smelled like a stale outgassing, not like burnt enamel, so it might have been overheated slightly.
BLDC PM motors are known for performance loss due to overheating despite having high efficiency for their size, so nothing out of ordinary.

Theoretically anyone can get and wrap some pipe around any size motor.
https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/original-feilun-ft009-8-feilun-motor-engine-water-cooling-system-boat-spare-part-for-feilun-ft009-rc-boat-intl-i105120844-s105688434.html
Otherwise there is no way to cool it evenly in such a constricted space if one wants to preserve the original looks.
Since everyone knows that for applications with unpredictable loads it's always better to use oversized motors or appropriate gearing instead of overengineered cooling solutions, then there's nothing else to say.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Objective+&t=19359&sf=msgonly

 

[sysrq]

Could heat pipes be used in general to transfer the heat passively while relatively simplifying whole installation process compared to copper plates on laminated core?
Vapor chamber might be too expensive.

 

[andrea_104kg]

Some information based on my experiences:
1) there is a way to see if an engine is burned. The current absorption increases excessively as there is a short circuit. If you can't get away with just a few watts (visible on the LCD03) it is likely that the engine is damaged. Obviously a damaged engine breaks down completely after a while, but for a while it can still work, especially when only one of the three phases is burned.
2) the motor of the tsdz2 absorbs on average 500w. The weight of the engine is about 3kg. Imagine having to heat a body exposed to the air by 3kg with a hair dryer of 500w. Obviously you would be in trouble. this means that it is enough to ensure contact with the case to drastically lower the engine temperature. I don't even need cooling fins. however it is not easy to ensure good motor-case contact.
An alternative way to mine can be to pierce the case and to force inside the copper straw hat with patience. the holes can then be closed with epoxy paste.
https://www.alambiccorame.it/it/paglietta-in-rame-di-riempimento/

 

[OttawaEbiker]

I've got a TSDZ2 on the way... andrea_104kg, could you provide some installation details for the final copper fin solution?

I assume:
- buy a copper sheet at home depot (gauge?)
- cut to fit in motor slots
- any glue/silicone between the layers to keep in place?
- copper fins are simple long sheets bent as needed? how are they glued to the copper layer underneath?
- is it still worth installing the temp sensor with this solution?

Thanks!

 

[sysrq]

Another low key solution I can think of would be tying all around the motor for even some 2-5mm thick OFHC copper 90 degree L bends depending on measurements in between the screws around in conjunction with thermal pads using a jubilee clip. The other ends would press against the round protrusion of the external cover above the motor terminal plate making it possible to put some pressure on the 2 mm thick thermal pads while tightening the cower screws. This approach might provide more uniform heat removal from the motor, bigger effective heat transfer surface area, more flexible tolerances and thinner thermal transfer path and somewhat adjustable compression pressure.

 

[andrea_104kg]

the annealed copper sheet (softer than the raw copper) that I had was 0.8 mm. To curve it I beat it lightly with a hammer on a curved surface (you can see the marks on the photo). it took two layers to bring the engine to the desired thickness. I don't remember what glue I used to hold them together :-(. But I think a common thermal paste is enough. When the job is done, the fins hold them in place.
The fins are obtained from a single folded sheet.
They are held in place by a thin stainless steel wire which, as seen in the photo above, passes over a motor screw and underneath I put a screw on the crankcase where I tied the wire. However after the silicone sealant has hardened I believe that the wires are no longer needed.
Also this evening I did the usual climb where the engine arrived at 90 °, the engine stopped at 67 ° so I think the temperature sensor is not needed.

 

[sysrq]

the annealed copper sheet (softer than the raw copper) that I had was 0.8 mm. To curve it I beat it lightly with a hammer on a curved surface (you can see the marks on the photo). it took two layers to bring the engine to the desired thickness. I don't remember what glue I used to hold them together :-(. But I think a common thermal paste is enough. When the job is done, the fins hold them in place.
The fins are obtained from a single folded sheet.
They are held in place by a thin stainless steel wire which, as seen in the photo above, passes over a motor screw and underneath I put a screw on the crankcase where I tied the wire. However after the silicone sealant has hardened I believe that the wires are no longer needed.
Also this evening I did the usual climb where the engine arrived at 90 °, the engine stopped at 67 ° so I think the temperature sensor is not needed.

If one wants to keep the outer cover intact then transferring the heat to the outer cover directly is an other option.

 

[OttawaEbiker]

the annealed copper sheet (softer than the raw copper) that I had was 0.8 mm. To curve it I beat it lightly with a hammer on a curved surface (you can see the marks on the photo). it took two layers to bring the engine to the desired thickness. I don't remember what glue I used to hold them together :-(. But I think a common thermal paste is enough. When the job is done, the fins hold them in place.
The fins are obtained from a single folded sheet.
They are held in place by a thin stainless steel wire which, as seen in the photo above, passes over a motor screw and underneath I put a screw on the crankcase where I tied the wire. However after the silicone sealant has hardened I believe that the wires are no longer needed.
Also this evening I did the usual climb where the engine arrived at 90 °, the engine stopped at 67 ° so I think the temperature sensor is not needed.

Thanks for the information. I'm sure I have several weeks of waiting before receiving the motor so I'll be monitoring all the temperature fix threads closely.

 

[maximusdm]

Nice solution, Andrea104!

I made a similar one from aluminium. The complicated part is how to get good thermal contact with the exterior shield so you can draw the heat to the outside.
How did you did that?

 

[andrea_104kg]

honestly I do not know! my idea was to make fins but then the copper is so conductive that where it touches in the casing it transmits a lot of heat .. the casing is always very hot

 

[sysrq]

5 or 6 adhesive pyrolytic graphite sheet strips around the motor and stacked 3mm thermal pads on top of the motor end cap pressing against the cover lined with adhesive pyrolytic graphite sheet to spread the heat better, since the covev looks lika a casted aluminium alloy which a are known to for their poorer thermal conductivity. I ok
EYGA091202A was no more expensive than a copper plate. Hard to find straightforward solution in such a small and relatively complex shaped space while preserving the original IP rating.

 

[Elinx]

.........
EYGA091202A was no more expensive than a copper plate. .........

The sheets I found are only 17µm, meaning you need 60 layers to get a 1mm. :?

I think the cheapest way is to use metal for reasonable thermal conductivity
Massive, braided, pressed sponge or pressed mesh, where (massive) copper is preferred and second aluminium.

But I think, for better thermal improvement you can use every material that has a bigger thermal conductivity than dry immovable air.
Filling the airgap between the laminated core and cover case at the front, has the highest effectivity.
Also you have there the biggest contact area with the hottest part and coolest (airflo) part of the motor.

 

[andrea_104kg]

I don't think that the thermal conductivity of aluminum is so bad ... with my system I lowered the temperature by 20 degrees. I don't think complex and expensive solutions are necessary.

 

[Elinx]

I don't think that the thermal conductivity of aluminum is so bad ..................

No it is not bad at all. It is one of the better cheap metals for thermal conductivity, but copper is preferable.

Siver 430W/m.k
Copper 380W/m.k
Gold 320W/m.k
Aluminium 210W/m.k
Brass 150W/m.k
Stainless Steel 100W/m.k
Iron 80W/m.k
Air 0.03W/m.k

 

[sysrq]

.........
EYGA091202A was no more expensive than a copper plate. .........

The sheets I found are only 17µm, meaning you need 60 layers to get a 1mm. :?

I think the cheapest way is to use metal for reasonable thermal conductivity
Massive, braided, pressed sponge or pressed mesh, where (massive) copper is preferred and second aluminium.

But I think, for better thermal improvement you can use every material that has a bigger thermal conductivity than dry immovable air.
Filling the airgap between the laminated core and cover case at the front, has the highest effectivity.
Also you have there the biggest contact area with the hottest part and coolest (airflo) part of the motor.

So there might be insufficient heat transfer capacity below 1mm thickness?

https://www.electronicdesign.com/circuit-protection/pyrolytic-graphite-sheet-evolves-meet-tough-thermal-demands

Cooling only front part of the motor itself could create internal hotspots.

 

[Elinx]

...............
So there might be insufficient heat transfer capacity below 1mm thickness?

https://www.electronicdesign.com/circuit-protection/pyrolytic-graphite-sheet-evolves-meet-tough-thermal-demands

Cooling only front part of the motor itself could create internal hotspots.

We are not talking about chips with nano dimensions for the electronical parts into the chip, but about a relative big laminated iron core.
The sheets you are talking about are so thin for the best contact with the aluminium heatsinck above a chip. The conductivity is higher than grease or glue, that is what they mean with preventing hotspots.
Als for 1mm you need 60 layers of these sheets. Between every layer you got conductivity loss.

The iron core can conduct the heat relative easy, but the air gap is not, so the heat stays in the motorcasing.
So fill the air gap with copper or aluminium is the easiest way.