((Help me please!! alternator delta conversion as a motor))

Here is the heat sink model I was referring to:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596HV-DCDC-Step-Down-Converter-Adjustable-Heatsink-/261208837194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd1428c4a

It is considerably more expensive, but you do not need to buy it, just use as reference how to triple RMS performance. You can scavenge aluminum sinks from damaged electronics.
 
parabellum said:
R=V/I. Resistance is fixed by conductor (we will not get into inductance for now)
If V=12
I=3
R=12/3=4 Ohm
The lower your V= lower your current



Parabellum, do you know the values on this monitor DC Power Supply of this video? I know not this device :shock: , but he indicates 0.30A and 00.9V, or, it is the opposite.
Thank you.
http://youtu.be/muCRyA7wy0I
 
parabellum said:
R=V/I. Resistance is fixed by conductor (we will not get into inductance for now)
If V=12
I=3
R=12/3=4 Ohm
The lower your V= lower your current



Parabellum, do you know the values on this monitor DC Power Supply of this video? I know not this device :shock: , but he indicates 0.30A and 00.9V, or 0.30V and 00.9A.
Thank you.
http://youtu.be/muCRyA7wy0I

SORRY! DOUBLE POST
 
parabellum said:
Here is the heat sink model I was referring to:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596HV-DCDC-Step-Down-Converter-Adjustable-Heatsink-/261208837194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd1428c4a

It is considerably more expensive, but you do not need to buy it, just use as reference how to triple RMS performance. You can scavenge aluminum sinks from damaged electronics.



OK, very good idea, thank you for this craftiness!
And, I can added thermal dough before the dissipator, and with which to stick the dissipator? :wink:
 
kejanostra said:
It looks like first value is for V and must move decimal point to the right, second is current A
kejanostra said:
OK, very good idea, thank you for this craftiness!
And, I can added thermal dough before the dissipator, and with which to stick the dissipator?
In the front of regulator paste can be used, on the back is better to use pads or some other electrical insulator, there are traces under very thin lacquer layer. Keep in mind, you main heat source is regulator chip.
 
OK, I made the order for this " step-down converter tension ", then later, I would add a small dissipator with thermal dough on him.
Then, I would make the tests for approach a reasonable speed enter 3V and 5V.
And thus, concerning the values indicated on the video above, it is (3V on screen left), and, (0,9A on screen right), that's it?

Thank you Parabellum, and good day to you!:mrgreen:
 
kejanostra said:
OK, I made the order for this " step-down converter tension ", then later, I would add a small dissipator with thermal dough on him.
Then, I would make the tests for approach a reasonable speed enter 3V and 5V.
And thus, concerning the values indicated on the video above, it is (3V on screen left), and, (0,9A on screen right), that's it?

Thank you Parabellum, and good day to you!:mrgreen:
Thanks. I suppose, after your measurements, you can solder one or few different value resistors with switch, in parallel or series (depends on expected results) to the pot to instantly switch between different torque settings. This is actually unique and only advantage of this motor you want to exploit. Have a good day!
 
parabellum said:
you can solder one or few different value resistors with switch, in parallel or series (depends on expected results) to the pot to instantly switch between different torque settings. This is actually unique and only advantage of this motor you want to exploit


Parabellum, you are really a very cunning "fox"!
But to make what you tell me, my brain understands the theory, but for the practice....... :roll:
Have you an example or a plan for example? :mrgreen:
 
kejanostra said:
I did not find small to dissipateur alu in my old devices dead, but I found that:http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
He is good normally, then I go ordered because not cheap for the 5 parts.
They are kind of small, I believe, and will not increase heat dissipation much if any. Anyway, you will have ~ 1.2A flow at 5V and even less at 3v, it may work for a while.
For high torque, you can make bypass switch from battery + to rotor+ without torturing this sweet, little converter. It awoids messing and soldering on converter and is even cheaper. What do you think? :wink:

P.S. any aluminum piece is potential heat sink! Just cut of a peace of L shaped allu profile. You can go to computer repair shop, old damaged PC power supplys are a treasure chest of heat sinks.
 
parabellum said:
For high torque, you can make bypass switch from battery + to rotor+ without torturing this sweet, little converter. It awoids messing and soldering on converter and is even cheaper. What do you think?

OK, but, if I connect (+ battery and + rotor) on switch (2 positions, that's it?), thus a position for (TORQUE), and a position for (SPEED), then, in position (TORQUE), the rotor will be not fed 12V for (TORQUE), because the small converter tension to feed the rotor with 3V or 5V.
Or then, I connect the wire (+ of converter tension, 3V or 5V rotor) and one other wire coming of rotor for (+ battery 12V - TORQUE) to the switch, and the 2 wires (+) Outgoing of switch, to (+ battery 12V), and so, I have, a position 12V TORQUE, and, a position 3V or 5V (according to my choice V) for SPEED, on my switch.
Or then I includes "NOTHING" and I have to see a plan, because it is better that a big explanation. :roll:



parabellum said:
P.S. any aluminum piece is potential heat sink! Just cut of a peace of L shaped allu profile. You can go to computer repair shop, old damaged PC power supplys are a treasure chest of heat sinks.

OK, still good cleverness!
I go asked around my knowledge to collect some old things. :wink:
 
kejanostra said:
OK, but, if I connect (+ battery and + rotor) on switch (2 positions, that's it?), thus a position for (TORQUE), and a position for (SPEED), then, in position (TORQUE), the rotor will be not fed 12V for (TORQUE), because the small converter tension to feed the rotor with 3V or 5V.
Or then, I connect the wire (+ of converter tension, 3V or 5V rotor) and one other wire coming of rotor for (+ battery 12V - TORQUE) to the switch, and the 2 wires (+) Outgoing of switch, to (+ battery 12V), and so, I have, a position 12V TORQUE, and, a position 3V or 5V (according to my choice V) for SPEED, on my switch.
Or then I includes "NOTHING" and I have to see a plan, because it is better that a big explanation.
This is a good question! I would just short In and Out on my converters, but they are little different to yours. I do not believe you can damage it this way, but to be sure, you could take 3 way switch and make 1 side connect converter Out to rotor + , middle position all off, and 3rd position Bat+ to Rotor +.
 
I searched in my box of brothel, and, I found a piece of angle alu pure, I am say : " I am going to make a small dissipator in the shape of L, as says Parabellum ",
then here is the result, the size is almost 20mm height and width, and 35mm length. :wink:
( I have maybe make a command for a dissipator for nothing! But for the low price, I am going not to complain).
IMAG1883.png
 
parabellum said:
you could take 3 way switch and make 1 side connect converter Out to rotor + , middle position all off, and 3rd position Bat+ to Rotor +.


Have you a small fast sketch, that I visualize the thing? :roll:
 
parabellum said:
kejanostra said:
parabellum said:
you could take 3 way switch and make 1 side connect converter Out to rotor + , middle position all off, and 3rd position Bat+ to Rotor +.


Have you a small fast sketch, that I visualize the thing? :roll:



Thank you Parabellum, I understood directly! :wink:
Thus on the sketch, 2), just corresponds as a bridge enters 12V + and 5V +, and If I leave him on 2), the rotor is not fed?
Then, I just miss a button ON/OFF to put on a handlebars, I would return towards ON/OFF, wire + (IN) converter, and wire + ESC,
and leave of ON/OFF with a wire +, towards battery +.
What switch 3 way you recommend (small price)?

What do you think of my small dissipator, well or well:lol:
 
kejanostra said:
What do you think of my small dissipator, well or well:lol:
Yeah. Cool heatsink, you even went into details cutting those wings. :D

As for the switch, you can take:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocker-Switch-3-Pin-250V6A-125V10A-Black-Plastic-3-Way-I-0-II-SPDT-3P-New-/151326053352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item233bbc53e8
or if you want it with fixture for handlebar.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2011-1A-GDAS.52NPF
I personally like this one, integrated in the throttle:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=94
 
parabellum said:
kejanostra said:
What do you think of my small dissipator, well or well:lol:
Yeah. Cool heatsink, you even went into details cutting those wings. :D

And he even did a good job with the deburring! :D
 
parabellum said:
I personally like this one, integrated in the throttle:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=94



Thank you for these links!

Your handle throttle quite one is ideal! She groups everything. :wink:

It is a pity the delivery towards my country (France) costs too much! Because the handle, she is really cheap otherwise.
I look for one as for this one on eBay, I saw one blows there, but impossible to reach the page, strange this thing!
 
Skalabala said:
parabellum said:
kejanostra said:
What do you think of my small dissipator, well or well:lol:
Yeah. Cool heatsink, you even went into details cutting those wings. :D

And he even did a good job with the deburring! :D


Thank you Skalabala!

I hope that he goes cleared the heat a maximum now. :mrgreen:
 
parabellum said:
kejanostra said:
What do you think of my small dissipator, well or well:lol:
Yeah. Cool heatsink, you even went into details cutting those wings. :D

As for the switch, you can take:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocker-Switch-3-Pin-250V6A-125V10A-Black-Plastic-3-Way-I-0-II-SPDT-3P-New-/151326053352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item233bbc53e8
or if you want it with fixture for handlebar.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2011-1A-GDAS.52NPF
I personally like this one, integrated in the throttle:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=94


I have preferred limited the expenses with these buttons rather than new one handle throttle effect hall (I would take one later).
I commanded these 2 button, on/off, and 3 way switch:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/5PCS-Mini-Black-...966?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cb3055e6
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Thus if I includes well, for the 3 way switch, (0) is Nothing, (1) 12V +, and (2) 3V or 5V?
My idea is I would fix a button at the top and one below (with glue or resin), on the support which surrounds the handle (as handle throttle your Parabellum).
:wink:

My handle throttle version "economic" LOL
handle throttle - 1.png
 
A little of relaxation the guys!

Look at this home-made karting,
So nervous, that he tears away the soil!
On the other hand, the price of the Zilla Z1-K 1000A controller and the 400 cells Lithium for 300V, returns big money!
It is my pleasure to make one like that in buggy to jump as a savage into my soil Corsica. :mrgreen:

[youtube]bERjkSTYOdU[/youtube]

And made by Expert:
[youtube]zI0TNk5gLbU[/youtube]
:wink:
 
I bought a 45A alternator, ($25.00 US)an 80A Mystery ESC ($16.00) and 2 Servo testers, ($8.00) all the electronics same as yours. :lol: When they are delivered to me, I will see if I can duplicate your results. 8)

Thanks for putting so much effort into this project and sharing here.

Harold in CR
 
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