Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

wow.. You really rock Arlo!

Nice project !

So you will be running two controller and leaf motors?

A Honda CRX LiPo D lol

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
wow.. You really rock Arlo!

Nice project !

So you will be running two controller and leaf motors?

A Honda CRX LiPo D lol

Doc
Thanks and yes I would like AWD eventually. :)
 
Nice project. Following :D

Would it be possible to use the leaf driverboard with a custom controller (to keep a stock look)?
 
This thread ironically is one of the most influential threads in the future of hotrodding world wide.

The potential for turning LEAFs into monster sleepers is going to forever change the perception of EVs.

Thank you so kindly for your tremendous efforts and achievements Arlo!

ATB,
-Luke
 
danibjor said:
Nice project. Following :D

Would it be possible to use the leaf driverboard with a custom controller (to keep a stock look)?


Not a chance :)

But the whole thing will be housed in the oem housing. Other then I need to make a new lid.
 
Thanks Luke. I was working hard on it today. Wondering why the curve in the amperage as the amperage goes up the speed of the increase of amperage flowing flattens. I found that I am pulling current out so fast the cap/batteries can't keep up... :) That's a cool problem to have... Lucky I have some more battery to add in parallel.
 
What max numbers are we looking at, peak? 400V 3ph 800A, isn't that around 180kW max power?

How are the Leaf drivetrain suited to handle the increased power? My E-up struggles with traction doing 0-30 kph whenever the asphalt isn't perfectly dry. Luckily the traction control is extremely good. This car only have ~60kW max power, but does 0-60 kph in under 6s. Unless you keep track of individual wheel speed, the very standard open mechanical differential will just spin one wheel to god-awful speed in no time.
 
Teh Stork said:
What max numbers are we looking at, peak? 400V 3ph 800A, isn't that around 180kW max power?

How are the Leaf drivetrain suited to handle the increased power? My E-up struggles with traction doing 0-30 kph whenever the asphalt isn't perfectly dry. Luckily the traction control is extremely good. This car only have ~60kW max power, but does 0-60 kph in under 6s. Unless you keep track of individual wheel speed, the very standard open mechanical differential will just spin one wheel to god-awful speed in no time.

Looking to break 300hp at the wheels with the current build for a short burst rating.
The OEM setup does 210ftlbs at 0rpm to ~2200 rpm then they pull phase current back and reduce the torque as it gains speed.
So I am not looking for much different then the oem torque (which is where the stress comes from on drive train components) if you spin 5252 rpm will still making 210 ftlbs then you have 210hp and If you spin 7000 rpm with 210 ft/lbs then you have 279hp at the wheels.

It only needs to be continuous rated around 50kw as normal cruise will be less then that.
408v nominal (112s) and ~560 DC amps is a peak goal for now ;) I have put over 1050 amps through the modules at 460v battery :)
 
Can I ask some random Q's...

How are you driving those massive IGBT's? It looks like the 333J is way too weak to handle those huge IGBT's?

Why did you choose those IGBT's? They seem old...?

How you looked at the 3 phase infineon igbt modules? :-DD Nice packages.


Cool project!
 
okashira said:
Can I ask some random Q's...

How are you driving those massive IGBT's? It looks like the 333J is way too weak to handle those huge IGBT's?
Boost stage If you look at the sch and PCB files you will see it

Why did you choose those IGBT's? They seem old...?
I got 7 of them for $200 so that's a start....

How you looked at the 3 phase infineon igbt modules? :-DD Nice packages.
Non on the modules can do the power I want. I don't want some granny car I will to make something fast!


Cool project!
Thanks.

I have a lot of things on the go this is one of them. I have a new design that will use TO264 igbts and should be easier to assemble and more power dense.
All In time. I will be running more tests tomorrow. Last night I shorted the high side and tested the desat at 227v and tomorrow I will test at 460v.
With 227v the current climbed to over 1300 amps in just 6.8 uS :shock: But the desat did shut it down and save it....
 
This is a double/cross post but its worth having here as well.
[youtube]KvqZvjyaCDM[/youtube]
 
Arlo1 said:
okashira said:
Can I ask some random Q's...

How are you driving those massive IGBT's? It looks like the 333J is way too weak to handle those huge IGBT's?
Boost stage If you look at the sch and PCB files you will see it

Why did you choose those IGBT's? They seem old...?
I got 7 of them for $200 so that's a start....

How you looked at the 3 phase infineon igbt modules? :-DD Nice packages.
Non on the modules can do the power I want. I don't want some granny car I will to make something fast!


Cool project!
Thanks.

I have a lot of things on the go this is one of them. I have a new design that will use TO264 igbts and should be easier to assemble and more power dense.
All In time. I will be running more tests tomorrow. Last night I shorted the high side and tested the desat at 227v and tomorrow I will test at 460v.
With 227v the current climbed to over 1300 amps in just 6.8 uS :shock: But the desat did shut it down and save it....

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon/FZ2400R12KE3_B9/?qs=jvkHRIcrBjy%252brHIrKPL7pg%3d%3d
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

23 micro columb gate charge :eek:
Use an ebike power stage to drive the igbt's lol (is that feasable?)
 
okashira said:
23 micro columb gate charge :eek:
Use an ebike power stage to drive the igbt's lol (is that feasable?)
That's some big money... So for that much I can make more power with a smaller package with a bunch of these.
http://www.ixys.com/ProductPortfolio/PowerDevices.aspx
 
I'm not really understanding any of the video, but I had to watch to the end as it was enthralling, with a combination of the tension of Alfred Hitchcock and the excitement and wonder of some boundaries of science documentary.

If I were Luke, I'd be saying something like 'Excellent work my friend', but I'm British so using the word 'friend' feels awkward. What I would like to say is that all you guys on here, who push the boundaries and help the rest of us, are indeed friends to humanity.

Keep up the good work and good luck.
 
Arlo1 said:
okashira said:
23 micro columb gate charge :eek:
Use an ebike power stage to drive the igbt's lol (is that feasable?)
That's some big money... So for that much I can make more power with a smaller package with a bunch of these.
http://www.ixys.com/ProductPortfolio/PowerDevices.aspx

What package is Tesla using?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMQjcukphpA (7:43)

I know they are international rectifier
 
Most likely what you will find in a Tesla will be amazing for the day it was made but out of date compared to what you can find new. Trick is to use trusted parts that are of the newest tech.
 
Time for an update. I will be moving all Leaf motor build info to this thread for now on.

Any of you watching the powerstage thread you can see its running at full voltage now. :) https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35387&start=2475
The solution was protecting the gates from over voltages.
Today is a day I have been waiting for for a LONG time! Its going in the car :)
[youtube]po3rmii0ffs[/youtube]
 
Yesterday I quickly mounted the motor and got the wheels on. It feels really good to have the car off the jack stands.

The front end sits about 2.5" higher then before... But I plan to add as much battery under the hood as I can.
 

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I will try to keep all posts here for now on with the electric CRX.
Its running. A few more things to clean up and it will be time for the first test drive.
[youtube]E9ilJAO6Gzk[/youtube]
 
The chip has a reverse pin, maybe put a switch on this on the dash so you can have reverse and don't need to swap motor wires ?

If you swap motor wires you need to recalibrate the halls....

Pround of you man !!!
 
Lebowski said:
The chip has a reverse pin, maybe put a switch on this on the dash so you can have reverse and don't need to swap motor wires ?

If you swap motor wires you need to recalibrate the halls....
Yes I know. I am going to use reverse anyways. But it will be best to recalibrate the halls so I can put limits on reverse and set it up properly.
 
Lebowski said:
The erpm limits are independent for forward and reverse, basically, the only thing different between forward and reverse is the name...
Oh cool thanks. So... now if I put a pull down resistor on the reverse pin... it should instead be a pull up...
And I need to look does the brain light up any LED for reverse. I will need to make a indicator for the dash saying F or R lol
 
I would use a toggle switch, one pin to gnd, one to 5v and the select pin to the brain. I would also add a resistor in so that in case of a bad contact in the switch the car still goes forward. You can connect a Led with resistor straight to the toggle switch as a reverse indicator. As far as the brain goes, in the throttle test of the setup is shows forward or reverse, when in motor mode there is no indication.
 
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