Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

steveo said:
love the drive shaft mods..

similar to how i mentioned to weld it .. sort of...

now you can tell us how much hp// torque they are good for before they snap :twisted:
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I will need loops....

My plan was to up the power until I max out the 600 amp IGBTs then when I order more 800 amp igbts and get good tires... Slicks... And suspension mods to make it hook up with all the torque I will get shafts before wrecking stuff.....
 
Tomdb said:
Great progress.

Too complicated for pure trigger point. Why dont you use an opto isolator to measure the voltage drop over the "second" cont actor. Once the voltage drop is low enough have the opto turn off. Playing with resistors will get you the desired result.

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I will be using a IGBT as a pre charge resistor in the future....
But this setup I have will be close enough... I will test it tonight on the bench with the lab supply...
 
Ok this might explain the use of a DC/DC as a isolated voltage signal.
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i think i understand what you want to do but i think it won't work becuase the output of your small black power supply is FIXED at 5V no? you won't get a variable voltage. but you could use this for "voltage present" detector i suppose. its there and is of at least such a value, or is not there. that could work.

the proper way to do what you want is to use analog circuitry to both scale/filter/isolate the DC bus voltage and then your arduino can read this low voltage, clean, isoalted signal on an analog IN. if you look on ivan's forum i have shown how to do this. you just change the front end resistor values to give the scaling you want because probably your Bus voltage is different. i think if i remember the analog side i have on a 3.3V device but arduino is 5V. read the datasheet for the parts i used make sure they take 5V as well and then modify the schematic to suit
 
No The output of the non regulated isolated supplies are non regulated and that's why this will work.
They do use 17ma according to a measurement I did after this video so that's a bit high for a voltage divider from 470v. But I bet I could use a higher voltage input and then the diveider doesn't need to drop the voltage as far...

[youtube]BKvCmfOJvBk[/youtube]
 
ah, unregulated. since its unregulated and you connect this to your arduino analog IN, you should conisider putting some high speed diodes to protect the line from transients. the arduino's uC will have these already built inside the ATmega chip, but they are microamp rated, you probably want something alittle more beefy so just add them on external. probably costs around 25 cents.

it never occurred to me to use one of these as a voltage measuring device. $7? not too bad. i wonder how accurate it is? not that you need high accuracy, just am curious. thanks for the idea, gives me something new to ponder :)
 
Kyle (Nuts&Volts) built a precharge system using an Arduino for their college race bike. Might be worth swapping notes with him.

As for the voltage divider - I use a 1.3 M ohm R1 and 13k R2 inside the battery of Voltron. It reads 7.00 V on the dash, but you remove the decimal place and it's all good.

You would probably do a similar thing on the inverter measuring the voltage of the main input caps. When Vcap = 0.9 * Vbat, close the contactor sort of thing.

Luckily the Rinehart PM150DZ on the bike does this for me, but it's the little projects like this that make it interesting :)

Subscribed ;)
 
jonescg said:
Kyle (Nuts&Volts) built a precharge system using an Arduino for their college race bike. Might be worth swapping notes with him.

As for the voltage divider - I use a 1.3 M ohm R1 and 13k R2 inside the battery of Voltron. It reads 7.00 V on the dash, but you remove the decimal place and it's all good.

You would probably do a similar thing on the inverter measuring the voltage of the main input caps. When Vcap = 0.9 * Vbat, close the contactor sort of thing.

Luckily the Rinehart PM150DZ on the bike does this for me, but it's the little projects like this that make it interesting :)

Subscribed ;)
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Yes what ever I do needs to be isolated. Remember the voltage divider you made is tied to the battery and if you grab it or the gauge you a now tied to battery negative.
 
Arlo1 said:
Yes what ever I do needs to be isolated. Remember the voltage divider you made is tied to the battery and if you grab it or the gauge you a now tied to battery negative.
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That's correct - I power my voltmeter and ammeter from an isolated supply, so no part of the 12 V wiring loom is tied to battery negative. Currently that's a pair of 2xAAA battery holsters, but when the isolated power supplies arrive they will be hooked up to the 12 V supply.
 
SjwNz said:
I have been using this little Isolated opamp below to measure upto a 600vdc supply for a circuit I made for a customer.
AVAGO TECHNOLOGIES HCPL-7520-000E Isolation Amplifier.

I can post a circuit I used for it if you like.
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Yes post the circuit but I think the isolated supplies will work well.

I was playing with them today The trick is to make sure the voltage divider can flow enough current.

I would like to see how others do it as well.
 
Impressive work Arlo, subscribed.

-JD
 
Cool thanks for sharing that. Its complicated :)
 
Spent some time updating this. I will edit the first couple posts.
 
Awesome stuff, following with interest! Currently putting a 2012 Leaf drive system into a 1973 Saab Sonett. Stock for now, but thinking ahead this is exactly where I'd like to go. Don't need any more low end torque in an 1800 lb FWD, but extending the rpm range of that torque would be fantastic.

Rob
 
This happened today.
No time to talk but this is less then 1/4 of the power I want to run.

Its set at battery amp limits of 80 and phase set to 200 amps. Plan is for 500-600 battery and 800 peak phase!!!!

[youtube]d_r_HKV_ZgQ[/youtube]
 
So glad to see this video!!
 
liveforphysics said:
So glad to see this video!!
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Today is quite emotional.... Brad was the one who started me on electrical in motorcycle college in 1999...... Today after driving for two days to see me he showed up at the shop just in time to hold the camera...

Thank you all.

And I will see you luke in less then 48 hours... :mrgreen:
 
Congratulations, that is a huge step!
(Note: the effect known to medical professionals as "EV Grin" should settle down to an occasional smirk in the next 24-48 hours, if not consult with your doctor or vehicle registration official :lol: )
Are you documenting the build apart from the controller somewhere? Only found your old thread.
 
Thanks. This is a big part of it. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35387
 
Getting there today I sorted out a few more bugs...

[youtube]Z2zJWAVAWEA[/youtube]
 
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