hidden wire brake sensor... ?

Not very often are they that way round. I have seen them both ways, but, normally, they go on the caliper end of the cable.
 
d8veh said:
Not very often are they that way round. I have seen them both ways, but, normally, they go on the caliper end of the cable.
Click to expand...

Would the red LED still be facing towards the brake lever?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Would the red LED still be facing towards the brake lever?
otherDoc
Click to expand...

On mine (and this seems to work), it is in a male-downwards facing config, with the light facing down. Just to warn the snails on the ground as one person put it! There is actually a nipple coming out of the HWBS and this slots into the sheath (oo-er) which is part of, say, a v-brake setup before the brakewire terminates. The female, top end of the HWBS has a recess where the stub of the brake cable housing fits in also snugly. The wire from the HWBS points upwards.
 
Thanks D8veh for the link to the jst connectors. I'm feeling stingy as my costs have been quite high lately, is there a reason why solder and home made paper and sellotape insulation couldn't be used? Or is there a cheap electricians' version like termination blocks?

I got a recommendation from someone else - thanks btw - about shrink tube housing, is that to stop wires touching other wires and making an electrical connection? Could I rig something up myself then, with plastic sheeting and tape? Alternatively, if the shrink tubes are vital, what is a good tube width to buy, as the assortment sets seem to miss out anything wide enough to fit the standard ebike connector blocks?

Thanks
 
nutspecial"+1 the jst connectors said:
Thanks. Could you recommend a thickness of tube, please? Is a heat gun required or will a hairdryer or holding over a hot ceramic hob do?
Click to expand...
 
Hey jonathon, I bought an assortment for 5ish bucks from amazon to start with. First I ever used heat shrink, and I kow find it indispensible for wiring projects. I slid a small tube over the jst pins onto the wire to melt after they were in the connector, then did a second shorter wider tube from the connector over the small tube. I don't know if there's a 'correct' way or not, but this worked great for me! I have completely used 2/3s of the assort and rewired 50+ conductors multiple times now hahah- if only I knew what I was doing right-off lol.

Shrinks with a lighter real well. Get the assortment to start, you wont be sorry. If you find you need alot of one size there are rolls you can buy pret cheap then- (i just got a 10ft 8mm black today from amazon for another 5bucks.) Enough to last a 'hobbiest' for a lifetime prob.
 
knighty said:
just done mine... but I must be doing it wrong

I've got red blue and yellow coming from the brake sensor thingie

controller has black and yellow

I connected the
red to 5v from throttle
blue to black out of controller
yellow to yellow out of controller

but like that, the ebrake cut off is on all the time

the little led on the brake sensor comes on with the red and blue connected... which made me think they were right ?

any idea where I've gone wrong?
Click to expand...
Yeah I used to use those sensors for cable brakes before I moved to hydraulic.
The most important thing to do with those sensor is put them on the right way around on the cable, if you do it the wrong way it just stays on and never turns off ever...I know it's hard to believe it could know but trust me it does.
Just turn them around and they will work.
Diagnose tip.... If you fully power off the bike and plug the battery back on you will notice the little led is off on the sensor but after the first pull you will see it go on and never turn off.
Here is my original post when I suffered the issue, as you can see I am also "blaming" the sensor when its technically my fault.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46608&start=75#p803400
 
The probable reason it is directional:

I have not opened one up yet, but pondered how it might work when I got one in a Fusin test/review kit. All I can imagine is that there is a magnet (ring? bar?) just inside the (probalby very thin) housing on the cable side of things, and a hall sensor nearby.

When the cable moves, the magnet moves with it.

So if the cable pulls it toward the sensor, and then away, as it will if mounted the right way, the signal (and LED) from it will turn on, then go off.

If it's mounted the other way, it will pull it toward the senosr, but can't pull it away, and thus it seems stuck on.

Now, it may not work liek that at all, but that's my imagined method, without having disassembled mine. (I'd still liek to, someday when I have time).
 
Yup AW, that's the way it works. The endcaps are just pressed in, but there's not much to see. a magnet the size of a woodruff key in a slot. (you can hear it grab the cable when sliding the cable in, and you can feel it moving 1/4" up/down in the slot when gently moving the cable. The hall is in the sqare-ish portion, but it seems to be glued in. nonserviceable.

I wonder if the hall is normal open or closed though (i assume closed when led is lit), and what it is supposed to read with no voltage supplied, or even with magnet out (I assume open, but mine tested closed).

I didn't realize the infineon 'low voltage' (misleading for dummies) controller on/off carried pack voltage- I may have initially pulled the volts from there, which maybe fried the hall to always closed.
 
The low voltage brake wire doesn't carry pack voltage. It's pulled up to 5v and the brake switch grounds it.
 
As I said, something is seriously wrong with your controller if you've got 80v on the brake wire because that's connected to the controller's cpu that runs at 5v.
 
The signal wire is pulled up to 5v by a resistor. It will stay at 5v until the brake switch shorts it to the other wire, which is ground. The high voltage brake wire operates the opposite way round. It's pulled to ground and is shorted to a 5v to bring it up when you operate the switch.
 
I just got 2 new sensors from bmsb and did some testing. Now I understand much better.

There should be no continuity in any of the 3 wires regardless of magnet position when wires are disconnected.
If red is connected to low voltage, only yellow will show continuity to red, and yellow will also complete the power circuit when grounded (led comes on with magnet up)

When connecting red to 4v
and yellow to ground:
Blue wire outputs 2.5v with magnet down (away from wires coming in, towards caliper),
and 0v when magnet is up (brake engaged, light on.)

I likely went wrong by not confirming my red wire was connected to low voltage, and probably put pack voltage to it (led was a LOT brighter lol). This is why all wires tested for continuity, because the sensor had fried closed.

To clarify the past few posts, my controller has two wires for the brake: ground and signal.
It was up to me to find power for the sensor's red wire, and I mistakenly connected it to the infineon's 'on-off' wire. (2 red wires, one is always hot, the other is hot when an external switch is on, thus telling the controller to turn on.) It was not 'low voltage' as called in the literature, it carries pack voltage.
 
I know this is an old thread, but since I recently was wrestling with the HWBS always being on (light and ebrake signal), I thought I'd chime in about my situation.

Turned out that for the sensors I got at least (which look like all the other ones I've seen pictures of -- in fact, I ordered two and got one silver and one black which both behaved identically), the ground and signal wire were reversed from what various online diagrams said. No matter what I did I couldn't get the light to turn off/the signal to register off. I had the sensors oriented the right way, I tried "resetting" them by turning power on with the brakes engaged, etc. Then I swapped the signal and ground wires (leaving the +5v wire as it was) and they both worked flawlessly from then on.
 
Unread postby d8veh » Fri May 08, 2015 1:17 am

The signal wire is pulled up to 5v by a resistor. It will stay at 5v until the brake switch shorts it to the other wire, which is ground. The high voltage brake wire operates the opposite way round. It's pulled to ground and is shorted to a 5v to bring it up when you operate the switch.
Click to expand...

I am useing this on a controller that needs a 12v signal ad this sensor has only 5v in and out . I tried putting 12v on the power for it, the light gets brighter and it still works but then even still the output only gets pulled up to like 5.9 v. Is their a way to make it pullup to 12v instead?
 
You may burn it out by applying 12v directly to it depending on what sensor it uses inside.

I would recommend using a relay, where only the coil is powered by the HWBS, andyou use the relay contacts to switch 12v from within the controller.
 
12v is non-standard for e-bikes.. the HWBS won't work with it directly. Are you sure that there's not another connector on the controller for a normal 5v brake switch. You need to know what's going on with your 12v brake connector. What wires does it have? How do you know it's 12v?
 
How use hidden wire brake sensor(ms-bk-1r) without controller?

I want make brake light.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Add DC/DC Converter with Brake Light signal to Super73 Z Miami SE
Replies
7
Views
369
amberwolf
amberwolf
5
mystery wires daymak sunshine
Replies
0
Views
514
5kr3wf4c3
5
marce002
Red thin wire trick volt
Replies
5
Views
288
marce002
marce002
C
Help with new controller-Daymak DMK1892
Replies
17
Views
1,585
candyskullinked
C
C
Speed sensor on direct drive and KT controller
Replies
19
Views
883
slaphappygamer
S
Back
Top