Hub Motor compatibility

[SkunkyFartz]

Hello! Just looking for some input/opinuons

Would this motor shown in the image. Be able to work on my current set up?

My battery is a 52v 45amp 21700 LG cells.
The controller is a Sabvoton currently programmed to 48v pulling 45amps.

^^^ will this^^^

Work with the image shown?
Im not looking to use 80-100amps up to 72v for the hub motor just yet.
Keeping the wheel for future proofing. If i decide to upgrade the controller and battery.

But i just want to know will this motor still work and spin just NOT at its maximum potential.

 

[E-HP]

As long as you’re OK with the extra weight, then it should be fine.

 

[SkunkyFartz]

As long as you’re OK with the extra weight, then it should be fine.

Sweet so itll be okay then? The vendor said it woukdnt work but i dont see why not. Ill just be operating the wheel at a lower amp.

 

[amberwolf]

It will probably spin the motor ok once you do whatever setup the controller requires to run it (self learn, or making sure the phase and hall wires are in the correct combination, any other specific motor properties setup in the controler, etc). At the lower voltage it will spin proportionaly slower than at it's intended voltage, and the lower current will make it less torquey than it's capable of.

If it's a very low-turn-count winding, it will have lower inductance, and your smaller controller may not like that much, potentially causing problems starting up from a stop under load, for instance, but it would still work.

If that motor is similar to the original QSMotors QS205,

qs-motor.com – QS205 3000W 50H V2 Electric Bike Hub Motor

it is a very heavy motor that weighs by itself more than some complete bikes do (14kgs, 31lbs). (if this clone isn't that heavy, then it probably isn't a good clone of the QS205 and not capable of the same power levels as the original, at least not for as long).

It also requires a very wide dropout spacing of 155mm. What frame are you going to put it on?

You'll also probably want better torque arms than what it comes with; they probably don't fit it very well, and if it's not a perfect fit then it may eventually escape your dropouts and roam on it's own, or rip up it's axle wiring, etc. There is a big torque arm picture thread with many DIY examples, or ebikes.ca v7 torque arm would probably work well.

 

[SkunkyFartz]

It will probably spin the motor ok once you do whatever setup the controller requires to run it (self learn, or making sure the phase and hall wires are in the correct combination, any other specific motor properties setup in the controler, etc). At the lower voltage it will spin proportionaly slower than at it's intended voltage, and the lower current will make it pretty wimpy for torque.

If it's a very low-turn-count winding, it will have lower inductance, and your smaller controller may not like that much, potentially causing problems starting up from a stop under load, for instance, but it would still work.

If that motor is similar to the original QSMotors QS205,

qs-motor.com – QS205 3000W 50H V2 Electric Bike Hub Motor

it is a very heavy motor that weighs by itself more than some complete bikes do (14kgs, 31lbs). (if this clone isn't that heavy, then it probably isn't a good clone of the QS205 and not capable of the same power levels as the original, at least not for as long).

It also requires a very wide dropout spacing of 155mm. What frame are you going to put it on?

You'll also probably want better torque arms than what it comes with; they probably don't fit it very well, and if it's not a perfect fit then it may eventually escape your dropouts and roam on it's own, or rip up it's axle wiring, etc. There is a big torque arm picture thread with many DIY examples, or ebikes.ca v7 torque arm would probably work well.

The controller is only gonna remain at 48v but it can ONLY do 2000w max. This motor can do 3000w-5000w. The battery is 52v 45amps.

So I'm just wondering will my current controller and battery.
still work with this higher performance Hub motor?

As for the bike frame I'll be using. It is called. The Banshee Scratch and its a beefy frame. The dropouts a beefy as well. I have attached an image. Let me know what your thoughts are. Regarding the dropouts. I think they're beefy enough. Not sure how to measure the wideness of it haha.

 

[nicobie]

Not sure how to measure the wideness of it haha.

Very important! If the motor is too wide it just won't fit. You'll never bend the frame enough to make it work either. I would get a motor that fits. The one you are looking at is really for a motorcycle.

 

[SkunkyFartz]

Very important! If the motor is too wide it just won't fit. You'll never bend the frame enough to make it work either. I would get a motor that fits. The one you are looking at is really for a motorcycle.

I've posted some images regarding the dropouts. What do you think? I'll add torque arm as well.

But I really want to know If this motor will work with my current controller + Battery set up.

 

[E-HP]

I've posted some images regarding the dropouts. What do you think? I'll add torque arm as well.

But I really want to know If this motor will work with my current controller + Battery set up.

Is that the frame using 14mm BMX axles? The motor diagram you posted shows the axle flats at 10mm, for a common bike axle dropout. Are you ordering a custom axle? If not, better have really beefy torque arms, since the dropouts won't be providing any support. The only stock (not custom order) hub I've seen for BMX dropouts is the Leaf, but I only spent a week Googling.

 

[SkunkyFartz]

Is that the frame using 14mm BMX axles? The motor diagram you posted shows the axle flats at 10mm, for a common bike axle dropout. Are you ordering a custom axle? If not, better have really beefy torque arms, since the dropouts won't be providing any support. The only stock (not custom order) hub I've seen for BMX dropouts is the Leaf, but I only spent a week Googling.

Yes I'll have two torque arms PLUS two sturmy washers on both sides.

Be allow me to ask you again. Will this motor work with my current set up?
Running a Sabovotom controller set to 48v 45amps
But also running a battery that is 52v 45 amps.

I just don't want this powerful motor to cause a fire hazard.

 

[E-HP]

Yes I'll have two torque arms PLUS two sturmy washers on both sides.

Be allow me to ask you again. Will this motor work with my current set up?
Running a Sabovotom controller set to 48v 45amps
But also running a battery that is 52v 45 amps.

I just don't want this powerful motor to cause a fire hazard.

Like any motor, it will try to pull as much power as it can from the controller, which is more with a bigger motor. I'm not familiar with how the Sabvoton reacts to hitting its (45A) current limit, whether it is gradual or abrupt, so that might be annoying. With the same setup, you'd probably have more fun mashing the throttle with a smaller motor, than treating it gingerly with a larger underpowered motor.

 

[SkunkyFartz]

Like any motor, it will try to pull as much power as it can from the controller, which is more with a bigger motor. I'm not familiar with how the Sabvoton reacts to hitting its (45A) current limit, whether it is gradual or abrupt, so that might be annoying. With the same setup, you'd probably have more fun mashing the throttle with a smaller motor, than treating it gingerly with a larger underpowered motor.

So the power of the motor is based on how much the controller can supply it with then.

So how will my controller which is 48v and able to put out 2000w. Fare with a 3000w to 5000w QS motor?
Keep it mind the motor itself is universal voltage. Meaning jt can work with 48v up to 72v at 3000w-5000w

So will I get an increase in speed and NO fire hazard?


BEFORE I had on a 48v 1500w motor and was able to push roughly 40mph.

 

[amberwolf]

The controller is only gonna remain at 48v but it can ONLY do 2000w max. This motor can do 3000w-5000w. The battery is 52v 45amps.

So I'm just wondering will my current controller and battery.
still work with this higher performance Hub motor?

That's been covered in detail including various gotchas in previous posts.


Regarding the battery, is it 45A or 45Ah? A is current, Ah is capacity, and they are completely different things but often confused, so I ask this often.

As for the bike frame I'll be using. It is called. The Banshee Scratch and its a beefy frame. The dropouts a beefy as well. I have attached an image. Let me know what your thoughts are. Regarding the dropouts. I think they're beefy enough. Not sure how to measure the wideness of it haha.

Since it is improbable that hte dropouts will fit the axle flats *exactly perfect*, you will still need torque arms on both axle ends, that fit the axles *perfectly* (preferably by clamping, like the ebikes.ca v7 torque arm), and that securely bolt or clamp to the frame.

The dropout width is the distance from the inboard faces of the plates the dropouts are cut into, where the rear wheel sits. That must be 155mm for this motor to fit it.

If it is a couple of mm more or less the motor will still fit, but you would have to either stretch the frame (whcih can damage it) or stack washers as spacers (which can run you out of axle length to put the torque arms/nuts/etc on with).

 

[SkunkyFartz]

That's been covered in detail including various gotchas in previous posts.


Regarding the battery, is it 45A or 45Ah? A is current, Ah is capacity, and they are completely different things but often confused, so I ask this often.



Since it is improbable that hte dropouts will fit the axle flats *exactly perfect*, you will still need torque arms on both axle ends, that fit the axles *perfectly* (preferably by clamping, like the ebikes.ca v7 torque arm), and that securely bolt or clamp to the frame.

The dropout width is the distance from the inboard faces of the plates the dropouts are cut into, where the rear wheel sits. That must be 155mm for this motor to fit it.

If it is a couple of mm more or less the motor will still fit, but you would have to either stretch the frame (whcih can damage it) or stack washers as spacers (which can run you out of axle length to put the torque arms/nuts/etc on with).

I'll find a way to make it fit hopefully I might lace it to a 24inch rim MAYBE

 

[amberwolf]

Well, hopefully you won't break your frame while you're riding it after whatever is done to "make it fit".

Regarding the rim...if it comes in a larger rim then putting it in a smaller one will make it proportionally slower. (and vice-versa).