is there a prob in this battery diy plan with prebuid case?

[flippy]

That's kind of a hassle when you have to replace a piece of of a car body, isn't it? Also, cars aren't packed full of thin plastic films and moist chemicals just on the other side of the sheet metal when it's welded. Would you prefer that your electric motor were welded together? Those need less frequent service that batteries do, in my observation.

i worked in a body shop for 3 years. its not hard in the slightest. welds give a lot less problems then bolts. i can strip a spot welded bodypanel with a simple plasma cutter in less time then you can drink a cup of coffee or get a single stripped or rusted bolt or nut loose.

and you dont replace a single cell, if a pack need cell rep[lacement you replace an entire block, not a single cell.

 

[want to build]

... what is the problem with the rod in 18650 cause it is still a mystery for me .

The anode rod comes in contact with the center of the can end thus any soldering or spot welding should preferably be done off-center closer to bottom can edge than at the center. Whereas the protective (explosion proof) cathode cap more easily dissipates any excess soldering or spot welding heat due in part to an inexperienced novice builder with less than desirable equipment prolonging the weld time.

Hi mark usually im fquick on understanding but here if feel puzzled not having understood yet what wrong could happen if the anode rod center happens to be welded to the anode part bottom (that is the risk isn t it?) both are anode so that would not be a short curcuit, what would be the problem, would you be willing to explain it to me plz tx

 

[Chalo]

i can strip a spot welded bodypanel with a simple plasma cutter in less time then you can drink a cup of coffee or get a single stripped or rusted bolt or nut loose.

Is that how you remove bunk flashlight cells from a pack? Please post video!

 

[flippy]

Is that how you remove bunk flashlight cells from a pack? Please post video!

no, if i have to recell a pack (usually after water damage for example) i simply hack out the enitre block that is damaged and rebuild the missing piece. i am utterly not caring for single cell that might still be good. it take me just a few minutes with some side cutters and/or a dremel to strip and cut the series connections and break the pack into pieces.

your denegrating view towards cylindrical cells is clouding your judgement. every cell shape and chemistry has its place. i recommend you try and at least act more neutral and look at the facts and real life situations where the batteries are going to be used. your defacto rule of "18650-r-bad" needs to stop. you are constantly giving utterly bad recommendations to people that come here for help, spend a lot of money and then find out you frocked them with your shitty misconseptions and personal bias. we are here to help people, not wave a flag about your personal issues and misconceptions with 18650 cells.

 

[Chalo]

every cell shape and chemistry has its place. i recommend you try and at least act more neutral and look at the facts and real life situations where the batteries are going to be used. your defacto rule of "18650-r-bad" needs to stop.

I don't have that rule. I've both built and repaired welded packs from 18650s and 26650s. (That's why I know firsthand that welded pack construction kind of sucks.)

Thing is, there's almost no way to justify recommending a pack layout that takes hundreds of cells to do the job you could do with just a few cells. If you're Tesla, with an army of robots and ultrasonic welders and production fixtures, then why not? But for the rest of us, there are lots of reasons why not.

A great reason to use 18650 cells in a welded pack is because you want a 7.4V, 4.4Ah pack to run an LED headlight. A very poor reason is because you're only accustomed to making things out of Lego and don't want to use parts that are appropriately scaled to your >1kWh requirements.

 

[flippy]

I don't have that rule. I've both built and repaired welded packs from 18650s and 26650s. (That's why I know firsthand that welded pack construction kind of sucks.)

Thing is, there's almost no way to justify recommending a pack layout that takes hundreds of cells to do the job you could do with just a few cells. If you're Tesla, with an army of robots and ultrasonic welders and production fixtures, then why not? But for the rest of us, there are lots of reasons why not.

A great reason to use 18650 cells in a welded pack is because you want a 7.4V, 4.4Ah pack to run an LED headlight. A very poor reason is because you're only accustomed to making things out of Lego and don't want to use parts that are appropriately scaled to your >1kWh requirements.

again, this is all your personal bias seeping in. you need to look better if you dont see that yourself.

 

[want to build]

I don't have that rule. I've both built and repaired welded packs from 18650s and 26650s. (That's why I know firsthand that welded pack construction kind of sucks.)

Thing is, there's almost no way to justify recommending a pack layout that takes hundreds of cells to do the job you could do with just a few cells. If you're Tesla, with an army of robots and ultrasonic welders and production fixtures, then why not? But for the rest of us, there are lots of reasons why not.

A great reason to use 18650 cells in a welded pack is because you want a 7.4V, 4.4Ah pack to run an LED headlight. A very poor reason is because you're only accustomed to making things out of Lego and don't want to use parts that are appropriately scaled to your >1kWh requirements.

again, this is all your personal bias seeping in. you need to look better if you dont see that yourself.

ok guy i can appreciate that you have different views. it is rich to my eye .
STILL can someone please to the love of whatever good you like to adress to answer this questions

im fquick on understanding but here if feel puzzled not having understood yet what wrong could happen if the anode rod center happens to be welded to the anode part bottom (that is the risk isn t it?) both are anode so that would not be a short curcuit, what would be the problem, would you be willing to explain it to me plz tx
tx

 

[flippy]

im fquick on understanding but here if feel puzzled not having understood yet what wrong could happen if the anode rod center happens to be welded to the anode part bottom (that is the risk isn t it?) both are anode so that would not be a short curcuit, what would be the problem, would you be willing to explain it to me plz tx
tx

there is no anode like in a akline battery. a 18650 cell is made up of a rolled up sheet.

the "anti-cyclindrical" people here think that spotwelding damages the bottom part of the rolled up piece, completly ignoring the insulation and space there still remains.

while it tehoretically is possible to damage the cell with welding its generally only possible if you have a badly produced cell to begin with (unlikely unless you are uding cheap chinese crap), or are using a ungodly amount of welding power to get your strip to stick.

 

[want to build]

id stay away from spot welding in the red circle

tx for clarity . would you be offended if i ask others their take on that?

not at all

Goatman flippy or anyone can you please explain me this :
im quick on understanding usually but here if feel puzzled not having understood yet what wrong could happen if the anode rod center happens to be welded to the anode part bottom (that is the risk isn t it?) both are anode so that would not be a short curcuit, what would be the problem, would you be willing to explain it to me plz tx
tx

 

[goatman]

i think it was mentioned above, thats a connection point

if you solder 2 wires together, you use a soldering iron to heat the solder and wire til the solder melts, making the weld

as long as the wire and solder to get hot enough to reach the melting point of the solder, youre fine

if you put heat to that connection point, theres a slight risk of losing that connection

do a test, take your spot welder and spot weld the center then grab your dmm and measure the voltage of the cell, if its at 0 volts you lost the connection and the cell is toast/dead.

i just dont know why your bent on spot welding to the center

 

[want to build]

i think it was mentioned above, thats a connection point

if you solder 2 wires together, you use a soldering iron to heat the solder and wire til the solder melts, making the weld

as long as the wire and solder to get hot enough to reach the melting point of the solder, youre fine

if you put heat to that connection point, theres a slight risk of losing that connection

do a test, take your spot welder and spot weld the center then grab your dmm and measure the voltage of the cell, if its at 0 volts you lost the connection and the cell is toast/dead.

i just dont know why your bent on spot welding to the center

at fist i though about doing 6 dot like a dice . but now that i know not to solder on the center i will use 4dot in a large square manner.

 

[want to build]

now i need to know wich thing i need to buy to spot weld this project 2 nickel layer0.15 mm nickel prefab sloted stipes .

i remember kweld solder seemed like a good option . is is for this project?

what battery should i be using with it ?the cheapest since i only have 2 x 13s4p battery to build and i will probably not do 1 battery perday so i can recharge the battery.

what else would i need? tx