tomjasz
1 GW
See if nobuo will engage. He's quite the wizard. Also in the repository thread. Try this there.
JP spot welder
- Thread starter riba2233
- Start date
tomjasz
1 GW
He's on Facebook ESOffroader said:
dssguy1
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2015
- Messages
- 24
Just got my assembled JP Spot Welder today and hooked it up to a 500 CCA car battery.
One small issue with it operationally. The positive electrode keeps sticking to the nickel strip. Not very hard but enough that I have to wiggle free and I can see a difference in the weld. The negative electrode leaves a silver spot and the positive electrode leaves a copper colored spot.
I have only done 4 welds at a pretty low (just a 20 degree turn) duration.
Any suggestions? I don't want to be destroying my electrodes if there is something I could change to stop this from happening.
One small issue with it operationally. The positive electrode keeps sticking to the nickel strip. Not very hard but enough that I have to wiggle free and I can see a difference in the weld. The negative electrode leaves a silver spot and the positive electrode leaves a copper colored spot.
I have only done 4 welds at a pretty low (just a 20 degree turn) duration.
Any suggestions? I don't want to be destroying my electrodes if there is something I could change to stop this from happening.
ohzee
100 kW
Part of dealing with the sticking is rolling the tip when removing vs pulling straight away.
It should stop happening once the electrode settles in. Maybe you could also try little bit more pressure.
@offroader: don't worry about that, use 0.15 mm nickel, that section is so short that it can handle much more amps then normal, longer section of nickel with same section.
@offroader: don't worry about that, use 0.15 mm nickel, that section is so short that it can handle much more amps then normal, longer section of nickel with same section.
mistercrash
10 kW
When am I getting mine? :lol: I need to make some tool packs out of cells left over from tool packs :lol:
QuestionMan
100 W
- Joined
- May 10, 2013
- Messages
- 266
I read through the whole thread and still confused about something.
How do you choose the optimal battery size?
Is it better to use a larger size lead acid or more closer to 1100 Cranking amps this way you will keep the pulse time lower?
I have an 800 cranking amp battery, but I could also connect a 2nd battery to that giving me 1400 cranking amps. Since both batteries are available would it be better to always use both of them for higher amps?
I may weld .15 or .2 nickel.
How do you choose the optimal battery size?
Is it better to use a larger size lead acid or more closer to 1100 Cranking amps this way you will keep the pulse time lower?
I have an 800 cranking amp battery, but I could also connect a 2nd battery to that giving me 1400 cranking amps. Since both batteries are available would it be better to always use both of them for higher amps?
I may weld .15 or .2 nickel.
QuestionMan said:
Well it's always better to have larger current and shorter pulse, but 800 should be more than enough, 1400 is pushing it if you ask me. But 1100 would be let's say maximal optimum
mistercrash said:
Soon, don't worry! Pm
QuestionMan
100 W
- Joined
- May 10, 2013
- Messages
- 266
Thanks for answer my question.
I have one more question. How do I choose and find the optimal pulse time?
I have one more question. How do I choose and find the optimal pulse time?
marty
1 MW
I don't know the answer to the question? But will answer any way.
Experiment. Get some scrap batteries and some nickel whatever thickness you plan on using. Turn the adjustment knob all the way one way. Make test weld. Turn the adjustment knob the opposite way. Make test weld. Adjust knob till welds look good. Test welds by trying to pull the nickel off the battery.
Experiment. Get some scrap batteries and some nickel whatever thickness you plan on using. Turn the adjustment knob all the way one way. Make test weld. Turn the adjustment knob the opposite way. Make test weld. Adjust knob till welds look good. Test welds by trying to pull the nickel off the battery.
dssguy1 said:
Well, if your standard battery is giving good results, stick to it, you'll stress welder less. Optima should be fine, but I would like to see specs, it might be some special series with lower IR.
QuestionMan said:
Like Marty said, by experiment, start with low setting and go up until you cant pry it with fingers, but only with pliers, and it should leave holes in nickel after it's torn.
dssguy1
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2015
- Messages
- 24
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...51-34r-redtop-starting-battery-reversed-post/
.0030 Ohms
I think it is kind of a beast of a battery! Still suggest I try it? I'm only welding .15mm Nickel and have had fine results with my 500-600 CA battery.
What is the min and max pulse on the REV 2 dial? And is it linear from min to max? Just so I have some clue what value I am setting. I don't have a fancy plastic box like you have in your video!
.0030 Ohms
I think it is kind of a beast of a battery! Still suggest I try it? I'm only welding .15mm Nickel and have had fine results with my 500-600 CA battery.
What is the min and max pulse on the REV 2 dial? And is it linear from min to max? Just so I have some clue what value I am setting. I don't have a fancy plastic box like you have in your video!
mistercrash
10 kW
riba2233, I made a 3S80P battery out of salvaged Sony US18650V cells. If the cells still have their total capacity, the battery is 11.1V nominal 120Ah. Capable of 10C constant. Did I build something too powerful or is it fine for the welder.
Thanks
Ray
Thanks
Ray
QuestionMan
100 W
- Joined
- May 10, 2013
- Messages
- 266
marty said:
Thanks.
I don't have any scrap 18650 cells just yet, is it possible to use like a C cell disposable battery to do the test welds on?
QuestionMan said:
Yeah, you can use those
dssguy1 said:
Well, I'm not entirely sure, so I would suggest that you stick to your standard battery if you are only doing 0.15 mm nickel
Pulse goes 0-20 ms linearly, same as on rev01, so in the middle, where the line on the pot is horizontal, it should be around 10 ms.
mistercrash said:
Whoa, that seems like much
I know that they are salvaged, but still, I would start testing with 30 Ah and see if it's fine. Just split a pack if you can. You can also send me a PM for order! 8)mistercrash
10 kW
I'll split it in two for 60Ah. PM sent.
Thanks
Ray
Thanks
Ray
riba2233, quick question about beefing up the traces to the aluminum bus bar.
Should the solder make good contact with the bus bar? In the picture it seems like you didn't really make all that much contact with the solder to the bus bar. It looks like the solder slopes down right near the aluminum bus bar.
Since regular solder can't bond easily to aluminum, should I use my aluminum flux and solder to make the solder bond with the bus bar?
What confuses me is in the instructions you say to get as close as possible to the bus bar. I figured that if you wanted good contact you would have said make good contact with the bus bar instead, and not as close as possible.
Thanks.
Should the solder make good contact with the bus bar? In the picture it seems like you didn't really make all that much contact with the solder to the bus bar. It looks like the solder slopes down right near the aluminum bus bar.
Since regular solder can't bond easily to aluminum, should I use my aluminum flux and solder to make the solder bond with the bus bar?
What confuses me is in the instructions you say to get as close as possible to the bus bar. I figured that if you wanted good contact you would have said make good contact with the bus bar instead, and not as close as possible.
Thanks.
jimwebo
1 W
Hello, here are a video of my JP spot welder working with a bank of capacitors of about 4F.
As you can see, I've changed the entry bar position, because this is my second game MOSFET and so I found it easier to weld the new.
In my case, I'm working around 12.50V for me it's no problem, I guess my electrodes 1 meter long cause a voltage drop that protects the MOSFET.
I tried to weld copper 0.10 mm to 13V and burned a group of MOSFET.
But on pure nickel 0.15mm works perfect.
A greeting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0jVw6r_C4w
As you can see, I've changed the entry bar position, because this is my second game MOSFET and so I found it easier to weld the new.
In my case, I'm working around 12.50V for me it's no problem, I guess my electrodes 1 meter long cause a voltage drop that protects the MOSFET.
I tried to weld copper 0.10 mm to 13V and burned a group of MOSFET.
But on pure nickel 0.15mm works perfect.
A greeting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0jVw6r_C4w
Hi guys,
I am new to the forum. This is my first post. I have read through (almost) this whole thread and I was encouraged enough to purchase a spot welder myself. I look forward to using it.
My interest in spot welding 18650 cells comes from my interest in Electric Cars. I "finished" converting my own personal vehicle to electric back in 2011. I used the quotes around the word "finished" because these projects are never really completely done. I continue to add/change things to the car. I have been using the 160Ah LiFePO4 cells (42 of them) I got from Thundersky for over 4 years and they continue to provide lots of power, but I have been keeping my eyes on developments in the battery industry.
Last year I purchased a bunch of 18650 cells to play with to see what I could do with them - but got discouraged when I wasn't able to find a way to connect them together to my satisfaction. That's where this thread comes in. Finally a low cost reliable way to interconnect 18650 cells.
I also came across these:
These are the Termi-Foil series terminals form TE Connectivity. They allow you to crimp a wire to the barrel part of the connector and then mash down on the Nickel strip with the flat part (with teeth) of the connector. This seems like a great way to go if you ask me. The way I have seen people connect wires to the Nickel strip is to simply solder the wire to the strip. Which works fine but in general a crimp joint is always more reliable than a solder joint. I don't like to solder wire because the solder can wick up the strands of the wire and makes a stress point where vibration can eventually cause the wire to fail. This doesn't occur with a crimp joint. The crimp tool you'd need for the barrel part of the terminal is readily available (like this one). Just crimp with the non-insulated 16-14 AWG tooth.
They have a crimp tool for the flat part of the terminal but that tool just provides a flat surface to squash down on the Nickel strip. I think a pair of pliers and a good squeeze should do the trick (but I haven't tried).
The terminals are not expensive I found these at Digikey.
What do you think? Has anyone ever used something like this?
I am new to the forum. This is my first post. I have read through (almost) this whole thread and I was encouraged enough to purchase a spot welder myself. I look forward to using it.
My interest in spot welding 18650 cells comes from my interest in Electric Cars. I "finished" converting my own personal vehicle to electric back in 2011. I used the quotes around the word "finished" because these projects are never really completely done. I continue to add/change things to the car. I have been using the 160Ah LiFePO4 cells (42 of them) I got from Thundersky for over 4 years and they continue to provide lots of power, but I have been keeping my eyes on developments in the battery industry.
Last year I purchased a bunch of 18650 cells to play with to see what I could do with them - but got discouraged when I wasn't able to find a way to connect them together to my satisfaction. That's where this thread comes in. Finally a low cost reliable way to interconnect 18650 cells.
I also came across these:
These are the Termi-Foil series terminals form TE Connectivity. They allow you to crimp a wire to the barrel part of the connector and then mash down on the Nickel strip with the flat part (with teeth) of the connector. This seems like a great way to go if you ask me. The way I have seen people connect wires to the Nickel strip is to simply solder the wire to the strip. Which works fine but in general a crimp joint is always more reliable than a solder joint. I don't like to solder wire because the solder can wick up the strands of the wire and makes a stress point where vibration can eventually cause the wire to fail. This doesn't occur with a crimp joint. The crimp tool you'd need for the barrel part of the terminal is readily available (like this one). Just crimp with the non-insulated 16-14 AWG tooth.
They have a crimp tool for the flat part of the terminal but that tool just provides a flat surface to squash down on the Nickel strip. I think a pair of pliers and a good squeeze should do the trick (but I haven't tried).
The terminals are not expensive I found these at Digikey.
What do you think? Has anyone ever used something like this?
Lurkin
100 kW
Welcome to the forum!
At what point are you using these connectors? to connect parallel packs? I'm not sure if I'm following how you are planning to use them. I haven't seen anyone use them.
At what point are you using these connectors? to connect parallel packs? I'm not sure if I'm following how you are planning to use them. I haven't seen anyone use them.
