Hello all,
I've been playing around with a EBCO Pulse 2 Electric bike which was donated as it had a faulty battery. Battery BMS board replaced and it now has power.
TLDR: I've fitted a new KT controller but it isn't quite working with the motor not turning, or needing to be pushed backwards to make it run. This suggests maybe incorrect hall/phase wiring, but part of me isn't quite sure.
Long, detailed problem solving history:
The electrics of the bike are branded "Tranzx" running at 36v. I'm not sure who makes the 250w motor, but it is rear-mounted (I'm assuming geared rather than direct drive due to the size), and has a 9 pin connector, which I assume has 3 hall sensors and a wheel speed wire. I haven't looked into the motor further yet, but it appears similar to this one: https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-parts-electric-bicycle/tranzx-e-bike-parts/tranzx-motors-parts/tranzx-motors/tranzx-m01-front-wheel-motor-26-inch-36v-from-2013-250w-sil/
This originally had a Santroll 3612 controller which was working OK. An amateur (which obviously wasn't me, *cough*...) opened it up of of curiosity to see what was inside, and managed to push two FETs together while trying to fix the heatsink spring clip back to the case. It turns out this caused the tabs to touch, and now even with them separated the controller takes a large amount of current with no load, and doesn't work. I assume that the supply current flowed straight through them and they are FETs no more. Lesson: Don't try to open a controller with FETs held on with spring clips that need to be slid in once the case it closed and can't be viewed. Doh. I checked continuity of the motor phase wires and there is a small resistance between each so at least I (um - I mean the amateur) haven't made the motor coils open circuit.
I bought a KT24/36SVPR-HRD01 controller and LCD5 display from eBay but am having trouble getting them to work.
The motor is wired with the hall and phase motor colours matching the ones on the controller (yellow to yellow, green to green etc). I reset the controller parameters to default via one of the C settings, as suggested somewhere on this forum.
The symptoms are as follows (Tried with the bike upside down, so no load on the wheel):
- Haven't checked accurately but the wheel speed sensor appears to work - when walking the speedometer showed 2mph which "seems about right".
- The pedal sensor appears to be working - PAS appears on the display when the pedals are turned in the forward direction, and nothing shows when pedalling backwards. However the motor did not turn.
- I tried the walk assist mode, thinking that this should work without any sensors, so might be a good first test. Nothing happens. However, if the wheel is pushed backwards and loaded a bit then it will start spinning. When the bike is on the ground it does nothing until pushed backwards, when it pushes forward for a bit with a bit of a judder, and then stops. Swapped two motor phase wires around to see if this would stop the judder, but then it won't move forward. It is stationary and provides resistance when pushed back, as though perhaps only one motor phase is firing.
- I connected a 10k potentiometer to simulate a throttle. This "sort of" worked - the wheel appeared to spin fairly smoothly once loaded and then "C" (for cruise) displayed, and it kept spinning. I could load the wheel by pressing a plastic bottle to provide friction - it kept spinning. I assume this indicates that the 6 FETs are working - if there was a faulty one I believe I'd hear/feel judder it if only 2 motor phases were firing.
- Later on the throttle worked, but after a while the motor would stop, even though the bench PSU wasn't indicating over current or anything.
- If I disconnect the hall sensors from the motor the display flashes an error code. This suggests it is detecting the sensors.
The P01 configuration value is left at the default of 87. I haven't taken the motor apart to measure gearing. From what I read on this forum, this P01 value is mainly used to determine speed, so I'm not sure if this being incorrect could cause these symptoms or not.
My inkling is that perhaps the hall sensor wires are in the wrong order - given that the walk mode needs to be pushed backwards to start it. I've learned from these forums that some controllers have a learning mode to auto detect sensors, via two wires. This controller doesn't seem to have the wires, and I found a similar looking controller on the "Suzhou Minshine Electronic Co" webpage which states that learning is automatic. The sensor behaviour also doesn't quite seem to match the behaviour I found on the flowchart, which makes me wonder if it is something else.
Can someone with more experience of these things help out with where I might be going wrong?
Many thanks!
I've been playing around with a EBCO Pulse 2 Electric bike which was donated as it had a faulty battery. Battery BMS board replaced and it now has power.
TLDR: I've fitted a new KT controller but it isn't quite working with the motor not turning, or needing to be pushed backwards to make it run. This suggests maybe incorrect hall/phase wiring, but part of me isn't quite sure.
Long, detailed problem solving history:
The electrics of the bike are branded "Tranzx" running at 36v. I'm not sure who makes the 250w motor, but it is rear-mounted (I'm assuming geared rather than direct drive due to the size), and has a 9 pin connector, which I assume has 3 hall sensors and a wheel speed wire. I haven't looked into the motor further yet, but it appears similar to this one: https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-parts-electric-bicycle/tranzx-e-bike-parts/tranzx-motors-parts/tranzx-motors/tranzx-m01-front-wheel-motor-26-inch-36v-from-2013-250w-sil/
This originally had a Santroll 3612 controller which was working OK. An amateur (which obviously wasn't me, *cough*...) opened it up of of curiosity to see what was inside, and managed to push two FETs together while trying to fix the heatsink spring clip back to the case. It turns out this caused the tabs to touch, and now even with them separated the controller takes a large amount of current with no load, and doesn't work. I assume that the supply current flowed straight through them and they are FETs no more. Lesson: Don't try to open a controller with FETs held on with spring clips that need to be slid in once the case it closed and can't be viewed. Doh. I checked continuity of the motor phase wires and there is a small resistance between each so at least I (um - I mean the amateur) haven't made the motor coils open circuit.
I bought a KT24/36SVPR-HRD01 controller and LCD5 display from eBay but am having trouble getting them to work.
The motor is wired with the hall and phase motor colours matching the ones on the controller (yellow to yellow, green to green etc). I reset the controller parameters to default via one of the C settings, as suggested somewhere on this forum.
The symptoms are as follows (Tried with the bike upside down, so no load on the wheel):
- Haven't checked accurately but the wheel speed sensor appears to work - when walking the speedometer showed 2mph which "seems about right".
- The pedal sensor appears to be working - PAS appears on the display when the pedals are turned in the forward direction, and nothing shows when pedalling backwards. However the motor did not turn.
- I tried the walk assist mode, thinking that this should work without any sensors, so might be a good first test. Nothing happens. However, if the wheel is pushed backwards and loaded a bit then it will start spinning. When the bike is on the ground it does nothing until pushed backwards, when it pushes forward for a bit with a bit of a judder, and then stops. Swapped two motor phase wires around to see if this would stop the judder, but then it won't move forward. It is stationary and provides resistance when pushed back, as though perhaps only one motor phase is firing.
- I connected a 10k potentiometer to simulate a throttle. This "sort of" worked - the wheel appeared to spin fairly smoothly once loaded and then "C" (for cruise) displayed, and it kept spinning. I could load the wheel by pressing a plastic bottle to provide friction - it kept spinning. I assume this indicates that the 6 FETs are working - if there was a faulty one I believe I'd hear/feel judder it if only 2 motor phases were firing.
- Later on the throttle worked, but after a while the motor would stop, even though the bench PSU wasn't indicating over current or anything.
- If I disconnect the hall sensors from the motor the display flashes an error code. This suggests it is detecting the sensors.
The P01 configuration value is left at the default of 87. I haven't taken the motor apart to measure gearing. From what I read on this forum, this P01 value is mainly used to determine speed, so I'm not sure if this being incorrect could cause these symptoms or not.
My inkling is that perhaps the hall sensor wires are in the wrong order - given that the walk mode needs to be pushed backwards to start it. I've learned from these forums that some controllers have a learning mode to auto detect sensors, via two wires. This controller doesn't seem to have the wires, and I found a similar looking controller on the "Suzhou Minshine Electronic Co" webpage which states that learning is automatic. The sensor behaviour also doesn't quite seem to match the behaviour I found on the flowchart, which makes me wonder if it is something else.
Can someone with more experience of these things help out with where I might be going wrong?
Many thanks!
