kWeld - "Next level" DIY battery spot welder

windtrader said:
Won't the limiting factor still be power input capacity like the current model? I could weld .02mm copper if I add capacitor or maybe a stronger battery.
The unit will come with a 450W power brick (18V / 25A), but you can also operate it from a battery. The onboard ultracap charger is designed for 60 amps, and that should allow for 200 Joules per second at the output terminals. The cable losses will reduce this, but for copper one could use massive ones.
kWeldPro-2.jpg
 
Sounds awesome. What us the ETA for availability and estimated pricing? So many upgraded features and capabilities - going to boost the price for sure. :)
 
windtrader said:
Sounds awesome. What us the ETA for availability and estimated pricing? So many upgraded features and capabilities - going to boost the price for sure. :)
My intended price tag is around 1000€ for the prebuilt base unit. Power supply and output cables are extra items. I also have the idea to offer the base board for people wanting to mount their own ultracapacitors (actually kCap will also work with the new unit), but I'm not fully sure. I estimate 3 to 4 months of development work on this, mainly software and steel enclosure, but I have parts already here to build the first 100 units thereafter. These will be prototypes, and international product certification is on the list after these.
 
I had a similar issue like Sztef89. It happend during calibration (step 6). I use a tesla modul as a power source. It was charged to 22,2V when i tried the calibration. Is there a fast fix for this? Can i still use my tesla modul as a power source or is it too powerful? My battery leads are not excessively long, but i use a EV contactor to cut off the power to the battery.
 

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I managed to update my welder.

First I had a 11.1v 260ah lipo that I used as main power source. This battery gave 1500a currents when charged at 11.1-11.2v, never went higher.

Now with the supercaps and the new wiring the story changes.
I get 1500a when I charge the supercaps to 5.5V. I tried higher voltages(from 5.6v to 8.1v, I didn’t charge more the caps)only for the calibration where I get 1800a and overcurrent alarm.

As a short test I tried to weld 0.15Ni + 0.1Cu to a 21700 cell using 30J. The weldings were always consistent.

I still have to wrap the caps in a pvc heat shrink and fix the welder to the block but overall I am very glad of the outcome.

I went with the supercaps because the battery was way too heavy and bulky to carry around and also enough dangerous!

Thanks Frank for the recently sent kSupply.

One small question, I know for sure that at with the caps at 5.5v my welder gives 1500a.
If I set the undercurrent protection to 1200a the welder gives an error without doing the weld.
If I lower the the value to 900a it works.
Same thing happened with the battery too.
How can one properly chose or calculate this value?
 

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I had a similar issue like Sztef89. It happend during calibration (step 6). I use a tesla modul as a power source. It was charged to 22,2V when i tried the calibration. Is there a fast fix for this? Can i still use my tesla modul as a power source or is it too powerful? My battery leads are not excessively long, but i use a EV contactor to cut off the power to the battery.
I was thinking that for every volt above 6.3V that my battery has, it needs to have 1 mOhm of internal resistance to stay in the current range that does not damage the kweld. For 22V-6,3V=15,7V, so 15,7 mOhm. I'm measuring 21mOhm at the kWeld input. Did it break because R is too high?
 

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I use a tesla modul as a power source.
While not knowing the exact specs of that battery, I'd say that it is way too powerful for the welder. kWeld has an overcurrent protection, but when a battery is just pushing way too much then that doesn't trigger quickly enough. Important to note that the welder basically shorts out the battery into the weld spot. The Tesla pack has probably delivered many thousands of amps.
 
While not knowing the exact specs of that battery, I'd say that it is way too powerful for the welder. kWeld has an overcurrent protection, but when a battery is just pushing way too much then that doesn't trigger quickly enough. Important to note that the welder basically shorts out the battery into the weld spot. The Tesla pack has probably delivered many thousands of amps.
I was able to replace the broken diode and today i did a first weld. I used a different power source.
 
i am a noob on spot welding and just bought a Kweld. Now i am looking into the power supply.

It's maybe a stupid question, but can a 6s 5000mah lipo do the trick? (intending to spot weld a 0.1 copper plate + 0.1 nickel).

It's because i have those 6s lipo cells laying around.
 
i am a noob on spot welding and just bought a Kweld. Now i am looking into the power supply.

It's maybe a stupid question, but can a 6s 5000mah lipo do the trick? (intending to spot weld a 0.1 copper plate + 0.1 nickel).

It's because i have those 6s lipo cells laying around.
No, I tried and few and it didnt work. I also tried 4S and didnt like it. In the end I use two 3S 60-120C Turnigy "heavy duty" lipos in parallel
 
Ok, thanks for the info!
My Turnigy Graphene 5.0 4S 75C lipo ripped itself apart when trying to weld a 0.15 nickel 0.20 copper sandwich.

Apparently it’s not recommended to go above 3S because the higher voltage of a 4S battery makes the battery work harder for the same weld as a 3S battery; which becomes a problem for thick welds that demand higher joules to complete.

I don’t remember the interesting specifics off hand, so maybe someone else can speak to that, but (correct me if I’m wrong) it’s something to do with the weld (resistance weld) being performed by current, not volts, so higher volts isn’t very useful, but is stressful.

If a weld needs 1600 amps, but the battery providing those Amps is several Volts higher because it’s a 4S instead of a 3S, the total Power rushing through the battery terminals and kWeld power rails will be higher and more stressful to the conductors (in my case the pouch cell tab conductors are what failed).

The weld just cares about current, not volts. Higher volts means more power flows through the conductors during a weld, stressing things out.
 
As Hobbyking is often out of stock on my recommended Lipos, I've bought and tested a few more models. I can recommend these two:
Turnigy Nano-Tech Plus 5000mAh 3S 70C Lipo Pack w/XT90 (calibrates at 1570 amps when fully charged)
Turnigy Graphene Panther 5000mAh 3S 75C Battery Pack (calibrates at 1520 amps when fully charged)

Unfortunately, as of writing this, also these have gotten out of stock... My order was just a month ago.
December 31, 2022, I placed an order from HobbyKing for a couple 3S Graphene 6.0 batteries, and they’re *still* back ordered. All HobbyKing can tell me is that the manufacturer in Hong Kong is dealing with Covid restrictions and so things are delayed for an unknown period of time. So my three partially complete battery packs languish until I can power my kWeld. Ugh
 
Diodes are replaced, but how do i fix the blown track? Can somebody draw some lines in this image?
 

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Does somebody know if i can use a XT 90 connectors instead of xt150 for the connection between the car battery and spot welding unit.

It’s just that I have them lying around and otherwise I have to order a pair of XT150’s

Thanks!
 
Does somebody know if i can use a XT 90 connectors instead of xt150 for the connection between the car battery and spot welding unit.

It’s just that I have them lying around and otherwise I have to order a pair of XT150’s

Thanks!
Maybe if you paralleled 3 of them.
 
Diodes are replaced, but how do i fix the blown track? Can somebody draw some lines in this image?
Use thick copper braid to make the connection, make sure not to touch the sixth terminal (gate). I'd also check the small resistor and diode, as they have received some heat.
 

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I'm measuring 21mOhm at the kWeld input. Did it break because R is too high?
These Lipo chargers do not provide accurate results, and also they surely include their own lead and croco clip resistance. For an accurate result, I use my oscilloscope and a strong load. Measure batt voltage with an without load, calculate ESR from that.
 
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