LightningRods mid drive kit

Admittedly, I didn't really bug Grin about it, however, I did go down to ASI (company that makes the controller its based on - they're local to me) they pretty much told me to leave and never come back :(
 
r3volved said:
Admittedly, I didn't really bug Grin about it, however, I did go down to ASI (company that makes the controller its based on - they're local to me) they pretty much told me to leave and never come back :(
Click to expand...

Hahaha... Don't be disheartened! I've gotten a few of those in different words or looks when I bring in anything eBike. Good reference point on ASI though.
 
Mike and Revolved,

is it a case of this particular motor or all mid drives. I only guess these controllers were designed specifically for hub motors which when no throttle they could be spinning, where as mid drives no throttle = not spinning....

Playing my CA settings this is one of the big ones to get right, how does the motor kick in slow enough but fast enough when you are already moving.
 
Jon, on the CA it's the Fast Thrsh setting you want. See http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-analyst-3.html throttle out section.

As for ASI, they just don't care to help me troubleshoot...I didn't buy a skid of controllers so I guess I'm just insignificant. I suspect they just don't do any consumer support. I applied for a job there though, lol!
 
Ha, I just need a job there so I get access to all their knowledge base and contacts to start my own r3bikes.ca :p

I'm of no direct help :( all I can offer is web and marketing. 4EVrn00b
 
This just in from Justin at Grin Tech:

Me: Would you be willing to set up my motor with your FOC if I sent one or two up to you?

Justin: Yes for sure, this can work really well, and once the right parameters are figured out then it's just a simple XML file that can be flashed onto any of the controllers that you ship with the motor and everything will be perfectly tuned. Do you have just one motor model that you use, or are there a range of them?

I'll do my best to keep this moving forward.
 
Here is the new urethane split block upper mount for the mid engine drive for the Luna. It was cast from a mold pulled right off of the bike's frame.

LunaUpperMount.jpg


The 10 gauge lower mount plate bolts directly to the lower frame plate on the Luna. These two mounts are extremely solid. Combine this secure mounting with a drive that has all of it's twisting forces at it's base rather than up at the end of a tall tower and you have an extremely rigid structure ready to transmit a lot of power without flexing.

LunaLowerMount.jpg
 
I think they're the best way to mount a bracket to a tube. There are lots of formulations of urethane. The one that I use for my pulleys is very hard and has high abrasion/wear resistance, but it's brittle. The urethane that I use for these split blocks is semi-rigid so it has a bit of give to it. It gets a death grip on the tube and won't squeak or mar the paint. Back it up with a laser cut steel support plate and it's an awesome mount.

These split blocks could certainly be made in common round tube diameters for "universal" mounts. Where it's really cool is when you have some oddball frame profile that would be almost impossible to CNC an aluminum mount for. You just build a casting box around the frame and pour the pattern right on the frame. Make a silicone mold from the pattern object and Bob's your uncle, you have a perfectly fitting frame mount.
 
LightningRods said:
Justin: Yes for sure, this can work really well, and once the right parameters are figured out then it's just a simple XML file that can be flashed onto any of the controllers that you ship with the motor and everything will be perfectly tuned. Do you have just one motor model that you use, or are there a range of them?
Click to expand...
Talk about showing incredible support for all! Again! Well done Mike!
 
More controller developments today. Ken in British Columbia was one of my first customers. He's game to have Grin Tech install the new Phaserunner on his up and running bike. That way Grin can actually ride the bike and evaluate real world performance as opposed to just bench testing a motor. I'm going to give Ken the green light and tell Justin and crew to be expecting him.

I'm hoping that because of the similarity in construction between the small block and big block that the tuning parameters for the small block can be used with the wider and more powerful motor.

Raphael G wrote today to say that he is officially giving up on the Adaptto and wants to use either a Lyen controller or the Phaserunner. His experience with the Adaptto factory has been terrible.
 
Sweet! I was hoping for a big block tune.

On a separate note, I have a question about the big block chainline for the Raptor 140 (and Q76 for that matter). Would a 170mm Rohloff XL put the chainline too far out to be ideal?
I would need the 165mm swingarm and spread to 170mm.

Or, I could go with the 150mm swingarm. Maybe I could shim the 142mm Rohloff to fit? Would that be a better chainline?
 
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