LightningRods mid drive kit

[LightningRods]

so basically one of them is mine? (the one with the heat sensor somewhere inside it).

Yours is actually in the group before these motors. These motors are for #7 through #12. Your motor is one of two on my workbench with the back off.

 

[Cryptic]

Happy (belated) birthday, Mike.

Don't appear to be on the list - give me a clue where I sit

Cheers
Wayne

 

[MitchJi]

Hi Mike,

Excellent responses to the negativity. Taking appropriate steps to address concerns about scheduling, and ignoring most of the inappropriate complaints (suggesting dishonesty or the posts based on misunderstandings of explanations by you and others). I was upset by some of them to the extent that I was going to respond, but I decided it was best to apply the
"Bulgarian Dog Turd Proverb":

Don't disturb dog turds lying on the street, because if you do (breaking the crust) the stench will increase.

I think you should consider anodizing and powder coating instead of painting (maybe Matt will chime in, since he uses both extensively):
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=29888&p=482091&#p482091

The rims just arrived this afternoon! YAY!!!

Man, they are beautiful! I have to take a few pictures for you. I am so glad I went with polished, then anodized. They look like black chrome. Oh, and the Jetset logo is laser etched into the rim at the seam. Very classy!....

Oh, lastly, I am sending a rim to Industry Nine to build up a pair for my Crimson red Cannondale Hooligan. The rims and hubs are black and the spokes (.11 inch diameter aluminum spokes) will be anodized red.

I love bling!

Matt

Yesterday I had an university test that went fine, so in the afternoon I decided to prepare the frame for the painting, instead of studying...

You should have that bad boy powder-coated. It is far more durable.

Matt

 

[LightningRods]

Happy (belated) birthday, Mike.

Don't appear to be on the list - give me a clue where I sit

Cheers
Wayne

Hi Wayne-
Your order came in just a bit over a week ago. There was a tsunami of orders back in April and May when I first made the kit available. I'm grinding through those now in larger and larger groups as I get my production methods streamlined. Orders placed now will realistically take 6 to 8 weeks to ship. By the time those ship I should be down to a 30 day lead time, which is where I want to be.

 

[LightningRods]

Bulgarian Dog Turd Proverb: "Don't disturb dog turds lying on the street, because if you do (breaking the crust) the stench will increase."

Exactly. It's easier to walk around it than to get it off of your shoe once you step in it.

I think you should consider anodizing and powder coating instead of painting (maybe Matt will chime in, since he uses both extensively):

I'm definitely considering both. I love those finishes. Powder coating steel in particular is going to take some trial and error. Powder coating is typically fairly thick. That will be a challenge to get right in my brackets where one slides inside of another. Plus I'm not certain if the powder coat finish will allow the brackets to 'bite' into each other to hold the adjustment. I zinc plated my brackets for a while and the zinc was a bit slick compared to painted steel.

I will be getting a powder coating setup and will start playing with it on the side. Right now it would cause more delays which I do not need.

 

[speedmd]

I would also consider aluminum and stainless as options. Aluminum will need anodize, but bites very well when assembled. Stainless if strength or hardness is at issue. It weighs more than aluminum but you need less of it. With what finishing costs in $, defects and delivery timing, it will most likely save you money not having to deal with it much past deburring/ machining as needed.

 

[recumpence]

Powder coating is too thick and slick for this application. I second the suggestion to go with aluminum that is anodized. But you would need thicker sheet to get the strength back. You can also have the steel parts black oxide coated. That is thin and very durable.

Matg

 

[Lenk42602]

guys enough already.

some are happy to wait forever others are not.

opinions of more patient folks wont change the opinions of less patient folks.

does not make one right or wrong or negative or positive.

Everyone's said what they gotta say, let it go.

sheez.

 

[recumpence]

guys enough already.

some are happy to wait forever others are not.

opinions of more patient folks wont change the opinions of less patient folks.

does not make one right or wrong or negative or positive.

Everyone's said what they gotta say, let it go.

sheez.

Wow, is it just me or hasn't the bickering already stopped?

Kind of late on your comment, there........

Matt

 

[Lenk42602]

matt,

bickering has stopped, yes.

this type of post revisits it.

Bulgarian Dog Turd Proverb: "Don't disturb dog turds lying on the street, because if you do (breaking the crust) the stench will increase."

no more necessary than any other opinion on this forum.

len

 

[LightningRods]

Powder coating is too thick and slick for this application. I second the suggestion to go with aluminum that is anodized. But you would need thicker sheet to get the strength back. You can also have the steel parts black oxide coated. That is thin and very durable.

Matg

Thanks for your input on materials Matt. I will no doubt be playing with aluminum at some point because I've always loved that material. I just love the look of it. I'm interested in getting plate aluminum water jetted and then doing some lightening and finish work with a CNC mill.

I'm going to look into the black oxide for my current steel parts. The drying time on spray painted steel has been a ridiculous bottle neck. Plus the surface is fragile. Black oxide sounds the trick. Thanks Matt!

 

[emaayan]

Powder coating is too thick and slick for this application. I second the suggestion to go with aluminum that is anodized. But you would need thicker sheet to get the strength back. You can also have the steel parts black oxide coated. That is thin and very durable.

Matg

Thanks for your input on materials Matt. I will no doubt be playing with aluminum at some point because I've always loved that material. I just love the look of it. I'm interested in getting plate aluminum water jetted and then doing some lightening and finish work with a CNC mill.

I'm going to look into the black oxide for my current steel parts. The drying time on spray painted steel has been a ridiculous bottle neck. Plus the surface is fragile. Black oxide sounds the trick. Thanks Matt!

i always thought that aluminum was not favored among e-bikers as it doesn't warn you when it brakes down (doesn't bend or something ) just brakes) .

 

[emaayan]

matt,

bickering has stopped, yes.

this type of post revisits it.

Bulgarian Dog Turd Proverb: "Don't disturb dog turds lying on the street, because if you do (breaking the crust) the stench will increase."

no more necessary than any other opinion on this forum.

len

agreed, that's was a afraid of that folks just waking up will continue to read up where they left off, comment, others we'll reply, and so on... if anyone else is reading this and care to comment on that issue, YOU'RE LATE!... cease and decease..

 

[Cryptic]

Hi Wayne-
Your order came in just a bit over a week ago. There was a tsunami of orders back in April and May when I first made the kit available. I'm grinding through those now in larger and larger groups as I get my production methods streamlined. Orders placed now will realistically take 6 to 8 weeks to ship.

Sweet, thanks Mike.

 

[freeride rev]

nice custom work- I'm interested in building a setup where weight is the most important factor- I would like it to aid in climbing on a downhill bike. I plan to use a GBK-100F 250~350W36V brushless front motor and run the controller/battery in a back pack. Do you have the capacity to build a lightweight mount for a bike to house the motor similar to this sweet setup built by endless sphere contributor "bad boy bikes" in Italy. (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=135406) If so, can you estimate the brackets weight and price. THanks LEn

 

[recumpence]

Black Oxide is what my machinist uses when he does steelwork that may come in contact with moisture. It leaves a tiny bit of surface texture (almost dulling) that looks good, too.

I am not sure if there are any other coatings you could try. But, according to my CNC guy, Black Oxide is the best option for your application.

Matt

Lenk,

No harm done. It was just a curious comment after all the dust seemed to settle. :wink:

Game on.......

 

[speedmd]

i always thought that aluminum was not favored among e-bikers as it doesn't warn you when it brakes down (doesn't bend or something ) just brakes)

Aluminum is a great material. It's fault of shorter fatigue life is a issue only when flexed past its "endurance limit". As long as the parts are designed strong enough to minimize flex it has a very long life. Failure mode is more sudden, but not at all glass like or they would not use it widely in aircraft. In this case, the motor and shaft brackets are well supported and flex very little. With that said, it is still one third the stiffness and strength of typical good steel. As long as this is compensated for, it should easily out last the moving parts.

Mike, I Do like the swirl style finishes, but they are very time consuming.

Also a bit of care must be taken when bending aluminum plate along its grain direction. Some alloys will tend to develop cracks if done this way.

 

[LightningRods]

nice custom work- I'm interested in building a setup where weight is the most important factor- I would like it to aid in climbing on a downhill bike. I plan to use a GBK-100F 250~350W36V brushless front motor and run the controller/battery in a back pack. Do you have the capacity to build a lightweight mount for a bike to house the motor similar to this sweet setup built by endless sphere contributor "bad boy bikes" in Italy. (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=135406) If so, can you estimate the brackets weight and price. THanks LEn

That's a tidy little install. Very minimalist. I'm not sure of all of the particulars of Bad Boy's install but the main thing to watch for is getting your reduction correct. I'd assume that the setup shown had some sort of internal planetary reduction. Externally there's not much reduction. The GBK-100F seems to be a direct drive hub motor. At 350W with only one stage of reduction power is going to be VERY modest, even if the motor rpm works out correctly with your pedaling cadence. With only 350W you will really need to pedal up hills so make sure the motor isn't spinning the crank faster than you want to keep up with.

I'm interested in trying some new things down the road but my plate is full to overflowing at the moment.

 

[Dani]

I have a general question to the build, the question might already be in the thread, but I already lost hours by reading through so many threads.. so please don't ban me for the following. Also I'm asking for my own kit I may build one day in the far future 8) :

why use 3 plates instead of just one? As seen here (this is bigblock, but it seems to be the same)

you can easily imagine one side to be made out of one plate. you can adjust the BB the same way you slide the freewheel/belt (lets call it top mount, idk). You would need to place the tensioner screw below, so it would screw against the bike frame, but I don't see anything wrong with that. The BB/motor would slide horizontally while the top section vertically.

You would lose the bent part on the bottom, which I don't know yet how to replace best for stiffness. I'm thinking about lasercut parts that could fit into eachother with a final welding on top. Or you could lasercut one piece and bend it afterwards.

 

[LightningRods]

Dani- I'm having trouble following your design idea based on your written description. Can you give us a drawing?

 

[LightningRods]

The UPS man just brought me a big box full of 219 chain goodies. Several of these 219 driven sprockets will be going to Emaayan in Israel.

 

[emaayan]

does this mean as soon as you'll finish the motor it's shipped?

 

[LightningRods]

does this mean as soon as you'll finish the motor it's shipped?

Depending on how you want your order broken up to confound the Israeli e-narcs, I can ship part of your order before the motor is wired up.

 

[BRK]

Good, fast, and cheap are the three criteria customers have to balance out. Usually, you can only pick two of these criteria and sometimes only one. Products that meet all three criteria can be found only when the product reaches a level of maturity and the product becomes a commodity. Want fast and cheap? Order a GNG kit. Want good? You'll have to wait for LR to catch up. While he is trying to get this done, lobbing rocks in from the sidelines won't help.

Keep after it LR and it's exciting watching my name inch up the list!

 

[emaayan]

nah, i'll want it assembled and shipped as one package because i think the motor won't arouse much suspicion looking like an electric winch , but you must include both invoices (of motor and kit) inside the package. the first thing they want to do is figure out to tax it. if the package worth is over 1000$ or it doesn't include an invoice they get nosy.

maybe the intercepted rockets above their heads would distract them from looking too deep

, the crank parts (i.e crank arms, freewheel, driven sprocket) WOULD need to be shipped separately.