gensem
100 kW
MattyCiii said:
ATS says the chainring is 110mm, have you got a 130mm installed in yours?
http://ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_item.html
Long Term testing of an ATS Speed Drive
- Thread starter MattyCiii
- Start date
ATS says the chainring is 110mm, have you got a 130mm installed in yours?
http://ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_item.html
Quajochem
100 W
Sorry I thought you ment the ring with the teeth on it, or chainwheel, you are talking about the protection ring?
My order hasn't actually arrived yet, I think I ordered no protection ring or chainring at all, because I am planning to use it with a standard chaincase wich I will modify..
The number of teeth will be 38 or 40, I don't know how much that is in diameter.
My order hasn't actually arrived yet, I think I ordered no protection ring or chainring at all, because I am planning to use it with a standard chaincase wich I will modify..
The number of teeth will be 38 or 40, I don't know how much that is in diameter.
Quajochem
100 W
But the chainring and chainguard are both standard 5 hole bolt on items, so there's no need to order them from ATS
melodious
100 kW
This may be of interest for a chainguard. I saw it at my local bike store on folding bikes (Dahon). Its a plastic coil conduit with a split in the middle. Looks cool in person.
http://www.chainrunner.de/index_en.html
Went and surfed around for it and it may lack any real durability factor. Who knows. But it definitely adheres to the "simple looks" of this thread.
http://www.chainrunner.de/index_en.html
Went and surfed around for it and it may lack any real durability factor. Who knows. But it definitely adheres to the "simple looks" of this thread.
gensem
100 kW
Quajochem said:
Regular chainring has BCD 104mm and regular crank arms do not fit too.
So... where to get the cranks and the chain ring?
Quajochem
100 W
Vladimir (Accountant) told me this about the chainring:
"Ebay is your friend. Look for 5 holes standard chainring.
Any bicycle shop have this in many collors and variations."
And you can contact him and ask him about the crank arms wich I ordered withthe drive, he has 172,5 mm crank arms, maybe you're lucky and he will sell them seperately from the drive, because those cranks are definately not standard no..
"Ebay is your friend. Look for 5 holes standard chainring.
Any bicycle shop have this in many collors and variations."
And you can contact him and ask him about the crank arms wich I ordered withthe drive, he has 172,5 mm crank arms, maybe you're lucky and he will sell them seperately from the drive, because those cranks are definately not standard no..
Quajochem
100 W
melodious said:
Yeah that's really cool looking!
but:
+ looks
- water, salt water > rust = maintenance
Looks possibly even cooler than this chainglider:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/product/review-hebie-chainglider-33772
+ It rests on top of your chain rather than attaching to your frame, so also no additional mounting
fixtures needed.
- Sand can make it noisy and wear out fast
New model
http://www.hebie.de/Chainglider-open-359.hebie359chainglideropen.0.html?&L=1
Still recommendable for all of you rear hubmotor enhousiasts! The chain will stay clean and lubricated longer
MattyCiii
100 kW
gensem said:
EDIT: I was wrong, they're 110mm. I hope I did not steer anyone wrong. I guess I can use the wrong-sized chainring I have on order from Amazon as a wall clock face...
Alan B
100 GW
I purchased a chainring from ebay and it fits. I'll have to check the size. Here is the info on the one I bought. SRAM 36T, 110mm BCD.
I've been told the crank arms are also a standard item but I don't know which "standard" they are. Mine are from Accountant. Seems like I put a photo of them in this thread earlier... No, it doesn't seem to be in this thread. Probably in my Greyborg thread.
I've been told the crank arms are also a standard item but I don't know which "standard" they are. Mine are from Accountant. Seems like I put a photo of them in this thread earlier... No, it doesn't seem to be in this thread. Probably in my Greyborg thread.
Quajochem
100 W
I have a Nuvinci rear hub, and I am also worried about the chainline, if it isn't straight enough I'll need some spacers!
From the ATS website http://www.ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_tc.html :
"Chainline
Distance between centerline of frame and midth of chain: 41.7 ~ 51.7mm. The chain line of speed-drive can adjust by spacers. Any chainline in between 41.7~51.7mm. We can offer the right spacers to fit your bike."
Compatibility
Generally, you can combine any bicycle gearing system with speed-drive.
For heavy use such as for Long Johns, rikschas, tandems, please use hubs, which are designed for tandems. These are 3- and 5-speed - SRAM - hubs. With 7-speed-hubs from SRAM, Shimano hubs and all types of chain derailleur systems no problems have been reported in the past couple of years, when thousands of speed-drive - systems have been combined with many different gearing systems.
You can combine speed-drive with the Rohloff 14-speed hub.
All speed-drive - systems may be combined with coaster brakes.
Nothing is said about a Nuvinci hub... fingers crossed
From the ATS website http://www.ats-speeddrive.com/tpl/all_sd_tc.html :
"Chainline
Distance between centerline of frame and midth of chain: 41.7 ~ 51.7mm. The chain line of speed-drive can adjust by spacers. Any chainline in between 41.7~51.7mm. We can offer the right spacers to fit your bike."
Compatibility
Generally, you can combine any bicycle gearing system with speed-drive.
For heavy use such as for Long Johns, rikschas, tandems, please use hubs, which are designed for tandems. These are 3- and 5-speed - SRAM - hubs. With 7-speed-hubs from SRAM, Shimano hubs and all types of chain derailleur systems no problems have been reported in the past couple of years, when thousands of speed-drive - systems have been combined with many different gearing systems.
You can combine speed-drive with the Rohloff 14-speed hub.
All speed-drive - systems may be combined with coaster brakes.
Nothing is said about a Nuvinci hub... fingers crossed
Accountant
10 W
Hello everyone,
This is what I can offer :
ATS speed drive 1:1,6 ratio. It is not a cheap chinese copy. It is manufactured in Taiwan under original licence :
Now it comes with original cranckarms,black, 172,5 mm long, which I bought in Switzerland directly from Shclumpf :
If you are realy rich, buy original product. It is Swiss quality and it will last at least 200 years, like Swiss watches.
I think that it is beautifull, but also it is pure overkill at the same time...
Speed drive is more than good enought for the job, and will also last about up to your lifetime.
Chainrings can easily be obtained from ebay or local bicycle shops. They should come with 5 holes 110 BCD standards
This is what I can offer :
ATS speed drive 1:1,6 ratio. It is not a cheap chinese copy. It is manufactured in Taiwan under original licence :
Now it comes with original cranckarms,black, 172,5 mm long, which I bought in Switzerland directly from Shclumpf :
If you are realy rich, buy original product. It is Swiss quality and it will last at least 200 years, like Swiss watches.
I think that it is beautifull, but also it is pure overkill at the same time...
Speed drive is more than good enought for the job, and will also last about up to your lifetime.
Chainrings can easily be obtained from ebay or local bicycle shops. They should come with 5 holes 110 BCD standards
Quajochem
100 W
gensem said:
Those crank arms also look very standard to me! Correct me if im wrong, but the only thing that isn't standard is the bracket itself, those shift buttons are part of it..
Accountant
10 W
Those crank arms also look very standard to me!
WRONG.
I was looking for apropriate crankarms for a few months.
Did not found them, and at the end bought from Schlumpf directly.
Very hard too find crancks that will work well with shifting buttons.
WRONG.
I was looking for apropriate crankarms for a few months.
Did not found them, and at the end bought from Schlumpf directly.
Very hard too find crancks that will work well with shifting buttons.
MattyCiii
100 kW
Quajochem said:
My setups are the same... I'm retrofitting one bike that already has a NuVinci with an ATS drive, and building a second bike up from the frame to use both the ATS and NuVinci. I have 2mm and 4mm spacers on the way just to give me options. I'll post pix when I get the parts in.
Quajochem
100 W
Accountant said:
What exactly is different then? Is it the size of the square hole?
kfong
100 kW
Accountant, how much plus shipping to Mi. 48310 USA?
Quajochem
100 W
MattyCiii said:
great!
Accountant
10 W
What exactly is different then? Is it the size of the square hole?[/quote]
Depth is different, and cranckarms are thinner than usual.
Prety tricky.
Depth is different, and cranckarms are thinner than usual.
Prety tricky.
MattyCiii
100 kW
OK, awhile back in this thread I promised I'd post some pics of the ATS drive installation. Well here goes.
I rented the tool set from ebikessf.com. They have an excellent installation video that was my guide. Renting the tool set was about $50 all told (that's rental plus shipping to me/back to ebikessf). Refund of $350 deposit was prompt. Very happy with how this is going so far...
Renting the tool set was very worthwhile, as I bought 3 ATS drives to install on 3 bikes. So, my cost per for installation is about $18.
Here are the pictures.
The most important part of the tool set: The chamfer tool is centered in the picture.
Here's bike #1, my spare bike. It's a 2007 Dahon Jetstream with NuVinci N360 rear hub. A great, versatile commuter bike. The ATS SpeedDrive will give me more gear range without the hassle of putting front chainrings on a folding bike. Here's the BB shell prior to chamfering.
A crank puller and bottom bracket removal tool are a must.
Another view
Here's me, using the chamfer tool the hard way (there are two springs, use them as shown in the video or get ready to spin that nut on the right a whole lot more than you need to)
A bike stand would have been nice, keep my back from aching, but it's easy enough to chamfer the BB with the bike upside down on its bars
Side 1: 45 degree chamfer, smooth and easy:
Side 2: Just as easy, but starting to get the hang of it so I didn't need to take the tool off & inspect quite as often
The "nut" you use on the left crank size has the mating 45 degree chamfer and can be used on both sides to gage depth
Once I got everything chamfered, I tried to mount the drive tightened to specification. But, the nut bottomed on its threads before I could apply torque. I had to order thicker spacers (they come in 0mm (pictured, I think), 0.5mm, 2mm, 4mm and 6mm). The spacers help with my problem (BB too narrow) and probably chain alignment too - which is why I ordered some 2mm and 4mm spacers.
Here's the spacer cone the drive arrived with.
My rental of the tool set from ebikessf was for one week. Though I was done with the chamfer tool (on all three bikes), I still needed the rest of the tools - especially the "box spanner" for tightening the bottom bracket nut - once the new cone spacers arrive. I suppose I could have called/asked to stretch my rental a day or two if I thought the larger cone spacers would arrive imminently, but I was not comfortable with the shipping timeline on the spacers.
So, I bought my own box spanner from Utah Trikes. I bought some of my cone spacers from them, and the shipping was something like $9 flat rate, so why not? If I need to remove/service the Speed Drive, having my own spanner can come in handy. If I thought a bit longer about the purchase I would have had them throw in this kit, but since I missed the window on fixed price shipping I'll just improvise with tools I have on hand.
I'm still waiting on my spacers - once they arrive I'll show the rest of the installation.
I rented the tool set from ebikessf.com. They have an excellent installation video that was my guide. Renting the tool set was about $50 all told (that's rental plus shipping to me/back to ebikessf). Refund of $350 deposit was prompt. Very happy with how this is going so far...
Renting the tool set was very worthwhile, as I bought 3 ATS drives to install on 3 bikes. So, my cost per for installation is about $18.
Here are the pictures.
The most important part of the tool set: The chamfer tool is centered in the picture.
Here's bike #1, my spare bike. It's a 2007 Dahon Jetstream with NuVinci N360 rear hub. A great, versatile commuter bike. The ATS SpeedDrive will give me more gear range without the hassle of putting front chainrings on a folding bike. Here's the BB shell prior to chamfering.
A crank puller and bottom bracket removal tool are a must.
Another view
Here's me, using the chamfer tool the hard way (there are two springs, use them as shown in the video or get ready to spin that nut on the right a whole lot more than you need to)
A bike stand would have been nice, keep my back from aching, but it's easy enough to chamfer the BB with the bike upside down on its bars
Side 1: 45 degree chamfer, smooth and easy:
Side 2: Just as easy, but starting to get the hang of it so I didn't need to take the tool off & inspect quite as often
The "nut" you use on the left crank size has the mating 45 degree chamfer and can be used on both sides to gage depth
Once I got everything chamfered, I tried to mount the drive tightened to specification. But, the nut bottomed on its threads before I could apply torque. I had to order thicker spacers (they come in 0mm (pictured, I think), 0.5mm, 2mm, 4mm and 6mm). The spacers help with my problem (BB too narrow) and probably chain alignment too - which is why I ordered some 2mm and 4mm spacers.
Here's the spacer cone the drive arrived with.
My rental of the tool set from ebikessf was for one week. Though I was done with the chamfer tool (on all three bikes), I still needed the rest of the tools - especially the "box spanner" for tightening the bottom bracket nut - once the new cone spacers arrive. I suppose I could have called/asked to stretch my rental a day or two if I thought the larger cone spacers would arrive imminently, but I was not comfortable with the shipping timeline on the spacers.
So, I bought my own box spanner from Utah Trikes. I bought some of my cone spacers from them, and the shipping was something like $9 flat rate, so why not? If I need to remove/service the Speed Drive, having my own spanner can come in handy. If I thought a bit longer about the purchase I would have had them throw in this kit, but since I missed the window on fixed price shipping I'll just improvise with tools I have on hand.
I'm still waiting on my spacers - once they arrive I'll show the rest of the installation.
Quajochem
100 W
Pff, looks complicated, spacers, more special tools... :?
Hope the chainline will be right first time...
But let's watch the video first
Hope the chainline will be right first time...
But let's watch the video first
Quajochem
100 W
gensem said:
http://www.utahtrikes.com/PRODINFO-Schlumpf_Crank_Arms.html ?
http://www.utahtrikes.com/CAT-Internal%20Hubs.html
etard
100 kW
That tool is nice, but for quick and dirty:
Sacman
10 kW
Illia has a DETAILED VIDEO of the whole istallation process of the Schlumpf High Speed Drive... INCLUDING THE CHAMFERING of the frame bottom bracket.
[youtube]0teCnQJskgQ[/youtube]
[youtube]0teCnQJskgQ[/youtube]
mabman
100 W
A little canola oil during the cutting would be a good thing to add to the procedure. It will do a better job and allow the tool to stay sharper longer. Also using a torque wrench to get the proper nm. Using locktite on the holding screw is a good idea and will have to do that on mine.
MattyCiii
100 kW
My next setback: Utah trikes just notified me their shipment from ATS did not contain any spanners, so I have to wait at least another month for their next order/shipment.
So for those installing their own Speed Drive and renting the tool set, I definitely recommend you have at least the 2mm cone spacer, and maybe a 4mm as well, if installing on a 68mm wide BB. That way you can get it all done in one sitting and avoid the wait.
So for those installing their own Speed Drive and renting the tool set, I definitely recommend you have at least the 2mm cone spacer, and maybe a 4mm as well, if installing on a 68mm wide BB. That way you can get it all done in one sitting and avoid the wait.
