Luna / LR Big Block build

bowhunter29 said:
The two braces that the drive sits against were out of square and too wide so the bottom plate of the drive couldn't sit flat against the mounting plate on the bike frame. I gently bent them inboard and the drive slid right into place. From there it was a matter of marking the mounting holes, drilling them, and bolting the drive in.

Hello, I think I have the same problem. My LR drive will not fit into the luna frame. If I put the plastic bits in that attache to the seatpost, the motor will not be flush against the bottom. If it is flush against the bottom, it wont line up properly with the seatpost or be in a stright line as the drive chain will be. When I measured the circular supports on the rear, they are not symmetrical as you say. One side is 1/8 of an inch more inwards (toward the seatpost). How do I bend these (thick steel pipes) without bending the whole frame out of whack?
 
ixandstones said:
bowhunter29 said:
The two braces that the drive sits against were out of square and too wide so the bottom plate of the drive couldn't sit flat against the mounting plate on the bike frame. I gently bent them inboard and the drive slid right into place. From there it was a matter of marking the mounting holes, drilling them, and bolting the drive in.

Hello, I think I have the same problem. My LR drive will not fit into the luna frame. If I put the plastic bits in that attache to the seatpost, the motor will not be flush against the bottom. If it is flush against the bottom, it wont line up properly with the seatpost or be in a stright line as the drive chain will be. When I measured the circular supports on the rear, they are not symmetrical as you say. One side is 1/8 of an inch more inwards (toward the seatpost). How do I bend these (thick steel pipes) without bending the whole frame out of whack?

I put a response on your luna thread,
 
ixandstones said:
bowhunter29 said:
The two braces that the drive sits against were out of square and too wide so the bottom plate of the drive couldn't sit flat against the mounting plate on the bike frame. I gently bent them inboard and the drive slid right into place. From there it was a matter of marking the mounting holes, drilling them, and bolting the drive in.

Hello, I think I have the same problem. My LR drive will not fit into the luna frame. If I put the plastic bits in that attache to the seatpost, the motor will not be flush against the bottom. If it is flush against the bottom, it wont line up properly with the seatpost or be in a stright line as the drive chain will be. When I measured the circular supports on the rear, they are not symmetrical as you say. One side is 1/8 of an inch more inwards (toward the seatpost). How do I bend these (thick steel pipes) without bending the whole frame out of whack?


Sorry for the delayed response! Sounds like the same issue I had. It's an easy fix. I used a heavy rope and twisted it with a wrench to pull the two bars closer together. This allowed the drive to sit flat.

Jeremy
 
Been a while since I posted an update. I blew up the N360 on the first serious ride and the Nexus 3 didn't last long either. I was debating on whether to spend the money on the Rohloff or go the single speed route. I ultimately chose the single speed for the simplicity and reliability.

I'm currently running a cheap 20T freewheel while I await the arrival of my 34T and 44T sprockets from Mike. I have a Sick Bike Parts HD freewheel waiting for them. While the 20T is a much higher gear than I'm wanting, it still works decent enough for me to ride in the meantime. I used the bike to tow my loaded deer cart 4 miles on Saturday. The trip in I hauled my treestand, my pack, and my bow on the cart. The trip out was just the deer.

jeremy
 

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Mammalian04 said:
Hmm... That doesn't bode well for my N171.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

The weight of this frame plus my weight (225lbs) is too much for the IGH's. That's why I wanted to go single speed with a Whipperman/Connex 1R8. Set it up and forget about it. I can actually run the bike at full power now!!!!! It's an absolute monster. With the bike, me, my gear, and the deer, I had @ 450lbs coming out of the mountain on Saturday evening. Even the steep hills were no match for this setup- with a 20T freewheel. The 34T will probably end up being my pick. If I shoot a bear the 44T is going on!!!

jeremy
 
Great build Jeremy! Thanks for helping others with their builds as well.

Here is a photo of your new 10 gauge stainless steel sprockets. The 44T will be slow but the pulling power will be unbelievable! If you can get traction, you're going to pull that Grizzly up that hill!

All that's left to do is cut a bevel on the teeth. My regular machinist is also a hunter and so of course he is nowhere to be found. I'll run over to a buddy's house with a 6 pack and mooch his lathe for an hour or two. :D

This is an awesome hunting bike. I can't wait to see how it works with the new gearing. You won't break these!

34_44T.jpg
 
Sorry I haven't posted up anything on my Lun-A-Tic lately----- a new job and lots of stuff has kept me from riding that much --- Its been HOT too !!!

Anyway, I did get one or two rides in and just getting the feel for it..the big tire in front gives me some heart throbs every now and then when im not paying attention, but remember I am not a bicyclist by any means.... maybe 45 years ago with my twist grip Western Flyer 3 sped IGH.... but not lately...

One particularly outstanding day was a ride up a power line "road."
I didn't realize how steep it got and by the time I got to the really steep part I was already committed ~~~~One of those Oh S... moments-----I almost laid her down for my safety sake.... but something inside me told me it was now or never and I had to see what she had...

So I just cranked the Rolly down to 1st gear--(where I never run it) and worked on the throttle like a dirt bike------ I was ready to jump off any time if she ran out of oomph... But it never did---it ground that hill up like bow hunter's sausage machine is grinding up that deer...

Nothing but kudos Mike---Everyone loves it and I am getting to learn more how she handles as I go along---- What a bike is all I can say---

BTW, I am 300lbs and with the frame weight and my prospecting gear when I was going up the power-line rd was topping out at an easy 400-425lbs...

This setup will run 30mph with me on it and I can still help with the pedals in 14th gear!!!!!!!!!!

Just waiting on the torque sensor to make the most incredible Luna around...

Bow hunter, for what you are using yours for you are on the money with that torqued gear you are using---- if I stayed in the desert or woods with mine all the time I would use the same set up , or similar, but I am planning on using mine to go on house calls here on the Indian Reservation in Hoopa CA.... I can get it gone before I can get my company car out of the motor pool and started up.

And re: videos--I have buried my go pro somewhere... still looking...
 
bowhunter29 said:
Mammalian04 said:
Hmm... That doesn't bode well for my N171.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

The weight of this frame plus my weight (225lbs) is too much for the IGH's. That's why I wanted to go single speed with a Whipperman/Connex 1R8. Set it up and forget about it. I can actually run the bike at full power now!!!!! It's an absolute monster. With the bike, me, my gear, and the deer, I had @ 450lbs coming out of the mountain on Saturday evening. Even the steep hills were no match for this setup- with a 20T freewheel. The 34T will probably end up being my pick. If I shoot a bear the 44T is going on!!!

jeremy

I have been monopolizing Mike with my projects so I'll try the N171 on my Luna first. If it implodes, then I'll go your route with the single speed! Thanks for taking one...er two for the team!
 
LightningRods said:
Great build Jeremy! Thanks for helping others with their builds as well.

Here is a photo of your new 10 gauge stainless steel sprockets. The 44T will be slow but the pulling power will be unbelievable! If you can get traction, you're going to pull that Grizzly up that hill!

All that's left to do is cut a bevel on the teeth. My regular machinist is also a hunter and so of course he is nowhere to be found. I'll run over to a buddy's house with a 6 pack and mooch his lathe for an hour or two. :D

This is an awesome hunting bike. I can't wait to see how it works with the new gearing. You won't break these!

34_44T.jpg

Wow! Those are sexy! Can't wait to get them bolted up.

Jeremy
 
I got a question for you guys with the IGH and the big block.

I cannot figure out a way to attach the torque axle plate of the rohloff to this frame.

- I bolted it to the rear dropouts and it bent the rear dropouts to hell
- I bought the monkeybone to attach it to the disc brake mount but the frame seems to be off standard size by a few mm and the axleplate wont fit.
- No way to attach the torque arm to the frame


Do your IGH come with a torque plate? What solution did you use to secure it? Any help would be great I'm stuck
 
The output sprocket rpm on my mid mount drive @ 50V is 375 rpm. With 1:1 final drive this is good for a bit over 30 mph. With the 34T rear sprocket the final drive is 2.125:1 reduction and the top speed is 15 mph. With the 44T sprocket the final drive is 2.75:1 reduction and the top speed is 12 mph.

In addition to having super climbing ability with this low overall gearing the strain on the driveline is so low with 8:1 motor reduction and then another 2.75:1 reduction to the rear wheel. When you're pulling heavy loads this is what you want to keep from bending steel. With 30:1 motor reduction and overdrive to the rear wheel the big motor would start breaking parts.
 
Here is the setup that was on the completed bike that I built. I had my LBS deal with the Rohloff and rear brake because it needed to be laced into the wheel. They made the comment to me when I picked the bike up that there was no place to attach the Rohloff torque brace and so they just trapped it between the seat stay and chain stay tubes. I didn't have any issues on braking or acceleration and no signs of bending on the dropouts. You can see the optional chain tensioner for the horizontal dropouts. It's a good accessory to keep the motor from pulling the axle forward.

RohloffBrake.jpg
 
I never had the need for a torque brace for either of my IGH's- they would break before spinning in the dropouts.

Now that I'm running a single speed and towing heavy loads, I was worried about the axle spinning. So far, that hasn't happened, even with running a 20T. I have a similar chain tensioner setup as Mike to keep the axle from being pulled foraward. I'll update with some pictures tonight if I remember.

Jeremy
 
LightningRods said:
Here is the setup that was on the completed bike that I built. I had my LBS deal with the Rohloff and rear brake because it needed to be laced into the wheel. They made the comment to me when I picked the bike up that there was no place to attach the Rohloff torque brace and so they just trapped it between the seat stay and chain stay tubes. I didn't have any issues on braking or acceleration and no signs of bending on the dropouts. You can see the optional chain tensioner for the horizontal dropouts. It's a good accessory to keep the motor from pulling the axle forward.

RohloffBrake.jpg


A picture is worth a thousand words! I could not understand what you were suggesting in the email but I got it now! Thanks!!!

I am going the way of blocking the speedbone axleplate under the disc brake mount:
FULzApWl.jpg


In the picture was the monkeybone disc brake mount since the magura mount was on the bike already, I will not be using the monkeybone but the stock magura mount.

Will keep updated
 
pkirkll said:
Lolol....

I need to know if there is some super duper anti gravity lube that won't pick up grit and grime

On a serious note, I'm glad you asked the question on my thread. I'd like to know as well.

jeremy
 
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